Sheftalia (Cypriot Lamb and Pork Sausage) Recipe

Instead of being stuffed in the usual sausage casings, these lamb-pork sausages are wrapped in easy-to-use caul fat.

Close-up of grilled sheftalia sausages on a plate, showered with parsley and flanked by flatbreads.

Serious Eats / Joshua Bousel

Why It Works

  • Adding fat into the meat mixture ensures a juicy, flavorful sausage.
  • The minimal seasonings of red onion and parsley give the sausage an uncomplicated, meat-first flavor.
  • The caul fat wrapping renders on the grill, creating flare-ups that give the exterior a deep, crusty sear.

I love making sausages. Or rather, I've loved making sausages ever since I made the upgrade from my KitchenAid sausage stuffer to a true vertical stuffer—one that transforms sausage-stuffing into a simple, almost effortless chore. I've created a lot of sausage recipes here on Serious Eats, and over the years my links have only improved. As much as I hope those beautiful images of chorizomerguez, and tomato and basil chicken sausages will influence others to try their hands at sausage making, I know the investment in both time and expense is likely more than the average home cook can or will take on. I always finish with a disclaimer that all my sausage recipes can be formed into patties rather than stuffed, but let's face it: an uncased sausage just isn't the same.

Close up of browned sheftalia sausages on a grill grate.

Serious Eats / Joshua Bousel

"The secret? It's all in the caul fat."


But that doesn't mean an uncased sausage can't be good. Take the little links of cevapi I did—those free-formed Southeastern European beef, lamb, onion, and garlic sausages were pretty incredible, especially when paired with smoky ajvar. Still, they were missing the snappy, darkened crust you think of when you hear the word "sausage." Luckily, it turns out there's a way to get some of those qualities without a proper casing; a trick I discovered when making sheftalia, an uncased sausage that hails from Cyprus. The secret? It's all in the caul fat.

Fattening Up

Here's the thing: sausage is all about fat. Which means that before we even mention the caul fat wrapper, we need to talk about the fat in the meat. A nice, fatty meat blend is what will keep your sausage flavorful and juicy once it hits the grill (and your taste buds). When it comes to sheftalia—a mixture of equal parts lamb and pork—that means turning to some of the fattiest cuts you can find: lamb shoulder and pork shoulder.

Both of these cuts will get you a whole lot closer to a good fat-to-meat ratio. But for optimal results, we're gunning for a 30% fat mark. That's where pork fatback comes in (or, as I like to call it, white gold).

Fatback is a slab of pure fat cut from the back of a pig, and it's an ideal way to boost the fat content of your meat mixtures. I generally add one pound of fatback for every four pounds of meat, adjusting slightly depending on how much fat is in the meat to begin with. For this sheftalia, I actually went a little heavier with the fatback because I needed to correct for using less fatty leg of lamb (which is what I had on hand) instead of lamb shoulder.

Once I'd weighed and cubed all the meat for the sheftalia, it was time to get my grind on.

The Perfect Grind

Meat for sheftalia is ground with a KitchenAid food grinding attachment.

Serious Eats / Joshua Bousel

While I prefer the feeling of making my sausages from start to finish, the task of grinding the meat should never stop you from trying out a sausage recipe. You can always have your butcher grind the meat for you and you'll come out with the same product, without any of the added time and mess.

For this recipe, I found that a two-step grinding process produced the best results. Protip: you'll want to keep everything cold when making sausages—it's what helps the fat and meat stay bonded together—so I started off by chilling (and salting) the meats and fatback, and storing the grinder's cutting die in the freezer. Only once everything was nice and chilly did I go ahead and send the cubes of meat through the grinder, which was fitted with that icy-cold die. Then I sent the mixture back through the grinder again, this time using the fine-cutting die. This two-step process left the fat especially well-distributed throughout the meat.

After the final grind, I mixed in sheftalia's traditional seasonings: onion, parsley, and pepper.

Caul Fat

A sheet of caul fat is unrolled and stretched out on a work surface.

Serious Eats / Joshua Bousel

After frying off a small sausage patty to confirm that the balance of seasonings was right, it was time to take this sausage to the next level and swaddle it up in some caul fat.

For those new to the ingredient, caul fat is the thin, fatty membrane that surrounds the stomachs of ruminants like cows, pigs, and sheep. It's a thinner-than-paper sheet that has lines of fat running through it in a pattern that sort of looks like it was made by a drunk spider. Although delicate, it's easier to work with than sausage casings, and doesn't come with any of the funky odor of animal intestines.

Wrapping the sausage in caul was a quicker process than I'd expected. The caul fat itself spread out into a sheet surprisingly easily; then I just grabbed around two ounces of sausage, formed it into a cylinder, and placed it at the edge of the sheet. All that remained was to fold the top of the caul fat over the sausage, followed by both sides, and then roll the sausage until it was fully encased. To separate it, just cut off the remaining caul fat to use for the next patty.

Fire Power

Sheftalia are arranged on a grill grate to cook.

Serious Eats / Joshua Bousel

The caul fat's magic really gets going when the sausages hit the grill. Once I had a fresh batch of coals going, I put those webby looking tubes of meat directly over the fire. As expected, the fat surrounding the sausage began to render, and when fat mixes with fire, it creates flare-ups: little towers of flame rose from the scorching coal, kissing the sausage and delivering an intense heat that quickly darkened the exterior.

Flames threaten to engulf several sheftalia as their fat renders and creates flare-ups.

Serious Eats / Joshua Bousel

Some of those flare-ups were large and required me to move the sausage to other areas of the grill until they dissipated, but spires of extra heat are generally desirable in these sorts of situations, since they create a crust that's deeper and crunchier than you'd otherwise get.

After about five minutes, a lot of the caul fat had rendered away, and the flare-ups subsided. I kept grilling the sausages over direct heat until they were cooked all the way through—in other words, when they hit 160°F (71°C) on an instant-read thermometer. That took another 10-15 minutes, at which point the outside of the links was even crustier than before.

Cross-section of a grilled sheftalia that's been cut in half. The interior looks moist and juices have pooled on the cutting board below.

Serious Eats / Joshua Bousel

"These sheftalia felt more like a traditional link than any other uncased sausage I've made in the past."

Although they may have looked super charred, the interior was tender and juicy—something we can thank all that fat for. The sausage had an uncomplicated, light lamb flavor that had a freshness thanks to the parsley and bits of sharp crunch from the onion. They were damn tasty, but the real attraction was how crispy the outside got without a traditional sausage casing. These sheftalia felt more like a traditional link than any other uncased sausage I've made in the past.

Close-up of the grilled sheftalia, garnished with minced parsley.

Serious Eats / Joshua Bousel

So there you have it, an uncased sausage that's quick and easy to put together at home and delivers a high-quality end product. I'm hoping this sheftalia recipe becomes a gateway sausage for many—a sausage that's simple enough to tackle at home, and then ignites a passion to just keep making more.

July 2014

Recipe Facts

Active: 90 mins
Total: 90 mins
Serves: 6 to 8 servings

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Ingredients

  • 1 pound boneless lamb shoulder or leg of lamb, cut into 1-inch cubes (or 1 1/4 pounds ground lamb, at least 30% fat; see notes)

  • 1 pound boneless pork shoulder, cut into 1-inch cubes (or 1 1/4 pounds ground pork, at least 30% fat; see notes)

  • 1/2 pound pork fatback, cut into 1-inch cubes (if grinding at home; see notes)

  • 1 tablespoon kosher salt

  • 1 cup finely chopped red onion

  • 1/3 cup packed finely chopped fresh parsley

  • 2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

  • 1/2 pound caul fat (see notes)

  • Greek pocketless pita, warmed, for serving

  • 1 lemon, cut in half, for serving

Directions

  1. If grinding at home: Place lamb, pork, and fatback in a large bowl. Add salt and toss to coat evenly. Place in refrigerator until chilled, at least 30 minutes. Place meat grinder parts, including medium and small dies, in freezer to chill.

    Chilled chunks of lamb, pork, and fatback are combined in a mixing bowl.

    Serious Eats / Joshua Bousel

  2. Grind meat and fat through meat grinder fitted with a medium die. Switch to small die and grind meat mixture once more.

    A mixing bowl of the ground meat mixture.

    Serious Eats / Joshua Bousel

  3. Place ground meat in a large mixing bowl. Add onion, parsley, and black pepper to meat mixture. Using a large spoon or hands, mix sausage until all ingredients are thoroughly distributed.

    Onion, pepper, and parsley are added to the bowl of ground meat.

    Serious Eats / Joshua Bousel

  4. Form a small sausage patty; place rest of sausage mixture in refrigerator. Cook patty in a small frying pan over medium-high heat until cooked through. Taste and adjust seasoning of sausage if necessary.

    A test patty is cooked in a nonstick skillet.

    Serious Eats / Joshua Bousel

  5. Lay 1 piece of caul fat on a work surface. Break off about 2 ounces of sausage and form into a cylinder. Place sausage 1-inch from top edge of caul fat. Fold top edge over sausage, followed by both sides. Roll sausage in caul fat until fully encased, then cut off remaining caul fat. Repeat with remaining caul fat and sausage mixture.

    Collage of sheftalia mixture being formed into cylinders and wrapped in caul fat.

    Serious Eats / Joshua Bousel

  6. Light one chimney full of charcoal. When all the charcoal is lit and covered with gray ash, pour out and spread the coals evenly over entire surface of coal grate. Set cooking grate in place, cover grill and allow to preheat for 5 minutes. Clean and oil the grilling grate. Grill sausages over medium-high direct heat until they register 160°F (71°C) on an instant-read thermometer when inserted into center. Let rest for 5 minutes. Serve immediately with warm pita and lemon halves.

    Sheftalia sausages browning on the grill.

    Serious Eats / Joshua Bousel

Special Equipment

Grill, meat grinder (optional)

Notes

If you grind the meat at home, you will need 1 pound of lamb, 1 pound of pork, and then 1/2 pound of pork fatback (totaling 2 1/2 pounds); if you decide to buy ground meat, you can get 1 1/4 pounds of ground lamb and 1 1/4 pounds of ground pork, but make sure they're both at least 30% fat.

Caul fat, a thin membrane that's laced with fat, can be purchased from a good butcher.

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Nutrition Facts (per serving)
714 Calories
48g Fat
29g Carbs
42g Protein
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Nutrition Facts
Servings: 6 to 8
Amount per serving
Calories 714
% Daily Value*
Total Fat 48g 62%
Saturated Fat 18g 91%
Cholesterol 158mg 53%
Sodium 744mg 32%
Total Carbohydrate 29g 11%
Dietary Fiber 4g 14%
Total Sugars 6g
Protein 42g
Vitamin C 59mg 294%
Calcium 101mg 8%
Iron 4mg 22%
Potassium 794mg 17%
*The % Daily Value (DV) tells you how much a nutrient in a food serving contributes to a daily diet. 2,000 calories a day is used for general nutrition advice.
(Nutrition information is calculated using an ingredient database and should be considered an estimate.)