These are the scrambled eggs dreams are made of, or would be made of if you dreamed about scrambled eggs, which would be weird.
The ideal scrambled eggs have the texture of the interior of a soufflé, fluffy and light yet creamy and rich. Their flavor is pure, unadulterated egg, both more delicate and more flavorful than standard egg preparations.
To achieve these results you need to cook the eggs very lightly, which entails slow cooking over low heat. Though some chefs use a double boiler to make scrambled eggs, the more practical option for home cooks is to cook the eggs in a skillet, moving them on and off the burner to extend the cooking time. If you cook eggs slowly while constantly stirring, they will be unable to form any lumps, and will develop a texture more similar to that of fresh ricotta or a thick, emulsified sauce than that of standard scrambled eggs.
Butter and crème fraîche help to accentuate the creaminess of the eggs, but these components are less important than low heat and constant stirring.
If you can't find crème fraîche, you can finish the eggs with a little cold butter instead. In this recipe I stir a little minced parsley into the eggs for color and balance (chives and chervil work just as well). For a more luxurious dish, you can stir in smoked salmon, caviar, or black truffle.
With a cooking time of 15 to 20 minutes, these scrambled eggs aren't as convenient as the usual preparation, but in luxury and flavor, they're on a different plane.
- 1 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 3 large eggs
- Kosher salt
- Freshly ground black pepper
- 1/2 tablespoon crème fraîche
- A dash of minced parsley
- Coarse sea salt
Melt butter over low heat in a nonstick or cast iron skillet. Meanwhile, crack eggs into a bowl, season with a dash of kosher salt and a pinch of pepper, and beat very lightly, just enough to break up yolks.
Take the skillet off the heat and add eggs. The eggs will begin to coagulate as soon as they hit the pan, so scramble immediately to avoid lumps. When the pan has cooled enough that the eggs are no longer coagulating, return to heat, stirring gently but constantly.
When the eggs begin to coagulate, take them off the heat again and, constantly stirring, wait until the pan cools enough for the eggs to no longer coagulate to return them to the heat. Continue to alternate cooking on the heat and off the heat until the eggs are no longer runny or wet but still creamy and moist. They should resemble fresh ricotta or the interior of a soufflé.