Gallery: How to Make Homemade Hot Dogs With Ryan Farr of 4505 Meats

I've been a fan of Ryan Farr, the proprieter and butcher at 4505 Meats in San Francisco, ever since I took my first bite of his transcendent breakfast sandwich from their stand at the Ferry Plaza Market. In a world of sub-par sausages made from excellent meat, here is a man who really has his technique nailed down, I thought to myself. The maple sausage patty was perfectly juicy, with a springy, meaty bite, and just the right level of salt. It's everything you look for in a good sausage. Check out the awesome hot dogs he made in our own kitchen.

  • A Killer Hot Dog

    A Killer Hot Dog

    This is one of the finest hot dogs I've ever tasted. Juicy and snappy with just a hint of smoke.

  • Fat and Lean

    Fat and lean

    The right level of fat and lean meat is essential to a good sausage. Here Ryan starts with lean cubed beef (this was top round), along with cubes of beef suet.

  • Keep it Cold

    Keep it frozen

    Partially freezing the meat helps it grind better and with less smearing as it hits the blade. Ryan suggests freezing the meat in a single layer until it starts to get crusty around the edges.

  • The Seasonings

    The seasonings

    The spice mixture for a New York hot dog consists of paprika, garlic, black pepper, regular salt, and pink salt—a curing salt which improves both flavor and color. Salt content is perhaps even more important than fat: without salt, muscle proteins don't cross-link and you end up with a mushy hot dog instead of a snappy one.

    Continue to 5 of 22 below.
  • Giving it a Grind

    Give it a grind

    Ryan passes the mixture through a standard grinder with a 1/4-inch plate into a bowl set inside another bowl filled with ice water. Remember: keep it cold!

  • Good Chopping

    Good chopping

    A good grind should look like finely chopped meat with distinct pieces of fat and lean. If your meat is coming out as a pink paste, there's probably something gumming up the works. Stop, clean out your grinder, re-chill your meat as necessary, and start over.

  • Ice and Water

    Ice and water

    Water is the final element in a good sausage, and in this case, Ryan adds his in the form of ice, which keeps the mixture chilled as it slowly melts and emulsifies.

  • Preliminary Mixing

    Preliminary mixing

    Ryan adds the spice blend to the meat, along with some of the ice water to give it a preliminary mix by hand.

    Continue to 9 of 22 below.
  • Getting Sticky

    Getting sticky

    "You want the mixture to stick to the bowl," says Ryan. As you work the salt and water into the grind, it becomes stickier and stickier, like a good bread dough.

  • Emulsification


    Like mortadella or bologna, a hot dog is an emulsified sausage, which means that the fat and lean are ground together until completely smooth. Here, Ryan uses the food processor, adding the ice to the bowl. "It's important that the meat never rises above 40°F at this stage if you want a snappy hot dog," Ryan warns.

  • Taste Test

    Taste Test

    Before taking the time to stuff your hot dogs, you should taste a piece by frying it in a skillet to make sure that the seasonings are where you want them.

  • Juice!


    When you gently squeeze the patty, you should see it bulge. If it weeps water like a sponge, it means your emulsion is broken.

    Continue to 13 of 22 below.
  • Stuffing


    Ryan recommends using a vertical sausage stuffer for stuffing sausages rather than the screw-driven stuffers on grinder attachments. They provide better pressure and stuff without over-heating the mixture, which leads to faster, better-textured sausages.

  • Twisting Links

    Twisting links

    New York hot dogs use sheep casings, which are thinner than the hog casings used for, say, a hot Italian sausage. Ryan twists off links, alternating the direction of twisting so that they stay closed as they cook.

  • Ready to Smoke

    ready to smoke

    The hot dogs, linked up and ready to be smoked.

  • Our Makeshift Smoker

    Our makeshift smoker

    Normally you'd want to cook the hot dogs in a smoker at 170°F until they hit around 145°F internally, but we don't have a smoker in our office. Instead, we're placing the hot dogs directly on a rack in a low oven...

    Continue to 17 of 22 below.
  • The Smoke

    The Smoke

    ...and lighting things on fire. Ryan uses a blow torch to get chunks of applewood smoldering in a skillet placed in the oven.

  • Smoke-Filled Oven

    Smoke-filled oven

    The oven quickly fills with smoke, which adds flavor and preservative properties to the hot dogs. If you have a gas oven, you may have problems keeping the smoke in the oven (gas ovens vent air). To overcome this, you can place the hot dogs on one side of a rack in a wide, deep baking dish, place smoldering wood chunks on the other, and cover the whole thing tightly with foil to trap the smoke before placing them in the oven.

  • Smoked


    The smoked hot dogs are fully cooked and come out of the oven bright red.

  • Crisp-Up to Serve

    Crisp up to serve

    The hot dogs are fully cooked after smoking, but you can further improve texture by finishing them off either in a steamer, on the grill, or in a skillet, as Ryan does here. To crisp them, he melts a bit of extra beef suet into the skillet.

    Continue to 21 of 22 below.
  • Cross-Section


    A tight, snappy texture, and a flavor that goes perfectly with mustard and sauerkraut.

  • Hot Dog Party!

    Hot dog party!

    Lots of hot dogs were made and just as many were consumed. There were no leftovers this day.