Why It Works
- An overnight rest with baking powder and salt helps to deliver extra-crisp skin straight out of the oven—no deep fryer required!
- Salt, sugar, and a slew of spices combine for maximum flavor.
- Toasting the spices before grinding adds complexity and improves flavor.
I'd put chicken wings right up there with pizza and nachos as official candidates for foods-that-should-be-their-own-food-group, and while Buffalo-style wings, with their hot, drippy, tangy, buttery, garlicky sauce, might be the reigning champion of the category,* there are an awful lot of scrappy contenders trying to bootstrap their way into the major leagues.
The concept of a hot and numbing crispy fried chicken wing was inspired by the ridiculously tasty Chongqing Chicken Wings I've had at at Mission Chinese Food in San Francisco and New York. As anyone in Sichuan or Chongqing can tell you, crispy fried chicken, hot chile, and numbing Sichuan peppercorns go together like cereal and milk. Really hot milk that will burn your face off in the most pleasurable way imaginable.
Starting from that idea, I decided to take a cue from my recent trip to Xi'an, where warm spices take over for more typical Chinese flavors. The result is a crisp chicken wing with a full-on assault of flavors.
I played around with a number of spice blends until I settled on doing it the easy way: an equal amount by volume of most of the spices. Regular old red pepper flakes will work, but if you can get your hand on some dried Chinese red chiles or those smoky northern Thai dried chiles, your wings will be all the better for the trouble.
As you bite your way through them, the first sense you get is the sweet, warm spices with just a hint of heat. But it's a slow-smoldering heat that grows and grows, eventually supplanting the other flavors until your mouth is near to the point of crying out for water. It's then that the numbing Sichuan peppercorns finally kick in, offering a bit of reprieve and giving you that distinctive lip-tingle. The one that whispers to you with a Jedi mind trick-like level of persuasion: Go ahead. Reach out and grab another one.
For the spices, I always recommend starting with whole spices instead of pre-ground. There are a few reasons for this, all of them coming down to flavor:
- First, ground spices have a much higher surface area to volume ratio, which makes it easier for volatile flavor compounds to escape into the air. Ground spices simply lose flavor faster.
- In my experience, most ground spices are made from lower quality spices and have inferior flavor to begin with.
- Toasting whole spices develops and retains more flavor. Again, it comes down to surface area. Toasting ground spices very rapidly drives off aromatic compounds. Toasting whole spices, on the other hand, helps boost and develop their flavor without sending nearly as much out into the air. The result is more flavor in your finished dish.
Grinding in a mortar and pestle isn't strictly necessary here, but I find it faster and easier to clean than a spice grinder, so I use it. In addition to the spices, I also add salt and a good amount of brown sugar to tame and balance some of that chile heat. If you're so inclined, a bit of MSG wouldn't be out of place at this stage either.
The wings themselves can be deep fried, but for convenience, I prefer to use my oven-fried Buffalo wings technique: Start by tossing the chicken wings in salt and baking powder, then let them rest uncovered in the fridge overnight. The overnight rest allows the skins to dry out a bit so that they crisp up much more efficiently in the oven. That way you can get them crisp before the meat underneath has a chance to dry out. Meanwhile, the baking powder slightly raises the pH of the wings, improving browning, while also creating teeny tiny micro-blisters that add surface area and crunch to the wings.
Once the crisp wings are out of the oven (and look, by the way, at how damn crisp those wings are!), all you've got to do is toss them with the spice blend along with some scallions and chopped cilantro. I just use a bowl for convenience here, though I've also had excellent results by heating up about two tablespoons of oil in a hot wok, adding the wings and spices, and tossing in there until everything is coated. The wok delivers a slightly different, more smoky flavor than just plain old tossing (and affords you the chance to add the giant handful of whole chiles, Mission Chinese Food-style, if you like that aroma and presentation).
These are just about the most flavor-packed wings you're gonna find anywhere, not to mention that they're going to get you addicted to that spice blend. Toss it on popcorn or on potato chips or sprinkle it onto grilled meats. It'd also make a mean addition to a burger or veggie burger!
4 pounds chicken wings, cut into drumettes and flats
1 tablespoon baking powder
1 1/2 tablespoons kosher salt
1 tablespoon whole cumin seeds
1 teaspoon whole fennel seeds
1 tablespoon dried red pepper flakes (preferably Thai)
1 tablespoon whole Sichuan peppercorns, seeds removed (see note)
1 tablespoon brown sugar
2 teaspoons vegetable oil
1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves and fine stems
4 scallions, thinly sliced
Line rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil, and set rack inside. Carefully dry chicken wings with paper towels. Place 1/3 of wings in large bowl, sprinkle with 1 teaspoon baking powder and 1 teaspoon salt, and toss until thoroughly and evenly coated. Place on rack, leaving slight space between each wing. Repeat with remaining two batches of wings.
Place baking sheet with wings in refrigerator and allow to rest, uncovered, at least 8 hours, and up to 18 hours.
Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and preheat oven to 450°F (230°C). Add chicken wings and cook for 20 minutes. Flip wings and continue to cook until crisp and golden brown, 15 to 25 minutes longer.
Meanwhile, combine cumin, fennel, pepper flakes, and Sichuan peppercorns in a small skillet and toast over medium-low heat until fragrant, about 1 minute. Transfer to a mortar and pestle or a spice grinder. Add remaining 1/2 tablespoon salt and sugar and grind until a rough powder is formed.
When wings are finished, transfer to a large bowl and toss with oil. Add half of the spice powder and all of the cilantro and scallions. Toss until coated. Taste one wing, then add more spice powder to taste. Serve immediately.
You can find Sichuan peppercorns online.
|Nutrition Facts (per serving)|
|Amount per serving|
|% Daily Value*|
|Total Fat 31g||39%|
|Saturated Fat 10g||50%|
|Total Carbohydrate 19g||7%|
|Dietary Fiber 2g||7%|
|Total Sugars 4g|
|Vitamin C 8mg||38%|
|*The % Daily Value (DV) tells you how much a nutrient in a food serving contributes to a daily diet. 2,000 calories a day is used for general nutrition advice.|