Why It Works
- Roasting the duck trimmings with aromatic vegetables and infusing that into the stock makes an even more flavorful and rich sauce.
- Blanching the duck and piercing its skin helps render the fat during roasting.
- An optional dry-brining stage seasons the meat, helps retain juices, and improves skin browning.
- Roasting the duck starting at high heat and then switching to lower heat yields browned and crispy skin and tender juicy meat (yep, even though it's well done).
- Different blanching times depending on the citrus used accounts for differences in navel versus bitter orange zest.
There are hundreds of recipes for classic French duck à l'orange, but too many are overly sweet. The truth is the sauce is meant to be made with bitter oranges, and any substitute should aim for that same original flavor.
Sometimes it helps to go back to the beginning. That's what I did while developing my recipe for duck à l'orange. When I told my wife, Kate, that my testing process would put it on our dinner table—again, and again, and again—she looked disappointed. She wasn't excited, she said, because the orange sauce is too sweet for her taste. She's right that it often is, but it really shouldn't be.
Understanding that, though, requires digging deeper than just looking at a bunch of previously published duck à l'orange recipes. It's not enough to simply ape what's out there today; more modern recipes too often feature sugary sauces, at times garnished with additional sweet orange flesh. That's not what duck à l'orange is meant to be. The sauce that's traditionally served with the dish is called sauce bigarade, named for the bitter orange that's meant to flavor it. Because bitter oranges can be hard to come by, most modern recipes substitute sweet orange juice cut with a dose of lemon juice. The problem is that once those sweet oranges are introduced, it's a slippery slope to higher and higher levels of sweetness. Sugar is seductive that way.
The key for any recipe developer working on this recipe is to track down some bitter oranges and make the sauce the way it's supposed to be made first; judging by many of the published recipes I've seen, I suspect that a minority have gone to the trouble. Only after understanding the sauce in its original form can we hope to dial in substitutes like navel orange and lemon appropriately.
But that's getting ahead of things. Let me take a step back to define the dish and establish my goals.
What Is Duck à l'Orange?
When I said I went back to the beginning, I wasn't being completely accurate. The beginning beginning takes us out of France and south to Italy. Or, at least, that's one version of the story of the origins of this dish—one that Italians are certainly fond of. According to history, Catherine de' Medici introduced some proto-duck à l'orange to France in 1533, when she moved there with her retinue of cooks to marry the Duke of Orléans. It's plausible, even if there isn't conclusive evidence to support it, given her other significant introductions to French cuisine (béchamel sauce, onion soup, and more).
In any event, one way or another, the practice of serving duck with an orange sauce established itself in French kitchens, until, over the centuries, the preparation as we know it today became cemented as the classic.
That version is as follows: One roast duck, skin crackling and crisp; alongside or spooned over the top, a brown sauce made from a base of beef or veal stock, flavored with the juice and zest of bitter oranges and sharpened with a sweet-sour gastrique made from sugar and wine vinegar.
When properly prepared, the sauce is thick enough to lightly coat a spoon, has enough gelatin from the beef or veal bones to make your lips sticky, enough acidity to slice through the rich fattiness of the duck, and juuuuuuust enough sweetness to make that acidity pleasant. Kinda like lemonade, but with oranges and meat.
When executed well, it's damned good, the kind of thing that deserves to be the centerpiece of a holiday table, and make you wish Thanksgiving could have been centered around duck instead of a turkey.
Start With the Bird: How to Roast a Whole Duck
Duck à l'orange requires one whole roasted duck. Sure, you can do cute versions that feature only perfectly medium-rare duck breasts, but that doesn't make nearly as beautiful a centerpiece. Plus, it kind of misses a key attribute of the original, which is meat that's been cooked until it's more or less well-done.
Duck is a magical animal in this way. Unlike a chicken, which has delicate white meat that reaches kindling-level dryness north of 155°F, and beef, which is loaded with loins that turn to jerky at high heat, duck is one of those special creatures whose every part is just as delicious served well-done as pink. Any doubters out there about this should remember that one of the greatest duck dishes on the planet, Peking duck, is also served well-done.
Duck handles high heat so well for two reasons. First, the meat all over is on the darker side, giving it a richer, oilier texture that can better withstand the drying effects of high temperatures. Second, and even more important, is the duck's luxuriously fatty skin, which insulates the meat and bathes it in mouth-coating rendered fat, ensuring each bite is unctuous. You can cook the crap out of a duck and as long as you eat it with the skin, it will never seem dry.
And that's really the point—unlike so many other roasts, where nailing a specific internal temperature is your goal, the key to a delicious whole roast duck is getting the skin just right. It should crisp on the outside and melt within, enough of the fat should render away that it doesn't overwhelm the flesh.
This is, in the end, great news, because what it means is that it's really, really hard to ruin a roast duck. Probably the worst thing you can do is under-roast it out of some misplaced fear of overcooking it. If the skin is great, the duck will be, too.
I played around with a few different methods of achieving an ideal roast duck. I blanched the birds in boiling water first, and also tried pricking the skin all over, both steps that can help the fat render more completely. I roasted ducks first at low heat until they were cooked through, then cranked the heat to high to try to crisp the skin right at the end (essentially a reverse-sear approach); I started high and then went low; and I blasted one bird at high heat all the way through. I tried the bird spatchcocked and not. I ate, in short, a lot of duck.
All of the methods worked, but some were better than others. I ended up choosing to do both the boiling-water blanch and the skin pricking. I didn't always find their effects obvious, but I also found no harm, and anything that might assist with rendering the fat under the skin is a plus. (The blanching also helps set the bird into picture-perfect form; the skin tightens in the hot water, and because the duck is buoyant, any potentially asymmetrical effects of gravity are negated. No need for trussing; just dip it.)
My least favorite roasting method of all the ones I tried was starting low and finishing high. In a cooler oven, the skin and fat don't brown and render as well, and the last-minute high heat isn't enough to make up for lost time. This is one case where a reverse-sear just doesn't make much sense.
Of the other methods (high then low, and high the entire time), I had similarly good results. Starting high shocks the skin with heat, so that browning and crisping get going right away and keep on chugging even after the oven temperature is lowered. High all the way is the most aggressive approach, and it produces good results, but I'm less enthusiastic about it because it's also more likely to fill your kitchen with smoke and gives you less room for error.
As for spatchcocking the bird versus leaving it whole, I'm agnostic. Spatchcocking the bird offers some benefits: you get the backbone as scrap, which you can add to the other scrap parts to enhance the sauce; it's slightly faster; and you get better browning and crisping on the skin around the thighs. On the other hand, you get slightly less crisping on the skin over the breast, which is centered in a protective pocket of cooler air (see this recipe for images of how heat encroaches from the edges of a spatchcocked bird, hitting the breast at the center last). Spatchcocking also requires doing (easy enough with poultry shears, but not as easy as leaving the bird whole); and you lose that classic roast duck shape for the table. Since they both work, do whichever way sounds better to you (like I said, duck is forgiving).
Get Saucy: How to Make Sauce Bigarade, the Real Secret to Duck à l'Orange
A roast duck is essential for duck à l'orange, but it's not what defines the dish. The sauce is what puts the orange in it. It's not any old orange sauce, though, it's a specific one—sauce bigarade. Knowing this is the key to getting duck à l'orange right. Not knowing it is what has led to so many sickly sweet versions.
"Bigarade" is the French name of bitter oranges, also sometimes sold as Seville oranges. I can't speak for all parts of the world, but in the United States they're not common. In many places, you can't find them at all. This has led to most recipes calling for a mixture of orange and lemon juice instead, which works—but it helps to know what the bitter-orange sauce is supposed to taste like before trying to fake it with other citrus.
Before getting to the citrus, though, we need to consider the base of the sauce: the stock used to build it.
The Base: A Good Brown Stock
Sauce-making in French cuisine has an interesting history. Back when lavish cuisine was exclusively the domain of the aristocracy, integral sauces—ones made from the drippings of roasts—ruled the kitchens of kings. Such sauces are said to be among the best, since each sauce is built from the essence of the meat with which it's served, but they come with a catch: most roasts don't produce adequate drippings to make enough sauce for the roast.
According to James Peterson in his exhaustive book Sauces, wasteful practices, such as cooking additional roasts just to make more sauce, were a common solution. It was something royalty could afford to do, but not something that translated well to restaurants and hotels, where making enough of a profit to stay open is the name of the game. Plus, building a separate sauce from scratch for each and every roast is impractical in a commercial kitchen.
Stocks were the solution. Using trimmings, bones, and other scraps, chefs could infuse water with layers of meaty flavor, plus get plenty of gelatin from the melted collagen of tough connective tissue. That gelatin is an essential ingredient in sauces, as it creates a rich and lip-sticking texture.
Making the sauce for duck à l'orange allows us to combine the powers of a good stock with the enhanced flavor of an integral sauce by infusing the stock with the duck trimmings.
The first thing you need to know is that there are few shortcuts here. Duck à l'orange is only as good as its sauce, and a good sauce of this sort doesn't come easy. I tried in my testing to work out a method using mass-market stock enhanced with powdered gelatin, a technique we use in many other recipes on Serious Eats, but it fails here. The sauce is too reduced, the flavor too concentrated, for a poor-quality stock to pass itself off as something even remotely edible. The results are, to be clear, disgusting.
Your very best bet is to make a brown stock from scratch. Beef or veal stock is ideal, since those bones give up enough gelatin to make a truly spectacular sauce, and the good news is I've worked out a method using a pressure cooker that turns an all-day process into something that takes just a few hours.
If you don't want to do that, a brown chicken stock is your next best choice; it won't have quite as much gelatin as a good beef or veal stock, so the sauce won't get quite the same body, but it'll still be great. (I like to use a pressure cooker for a brown chicken stock, too, which speeds up the process while loading the stock with as much gelatin and flavor as you're likely to get.)
There is another way that may be available to some, and that is to buy decent beef stock from a local butcher or gourmet store that sells it. It's not uncommon to spot quart containers of these stocks in the freezer section at higher-end stores. But still, that comes with a caveat: It is exceedingly rare for even these upper-end stores to sell truly good stock, which means some doctoring is still in order.
As an example, I recently bought two quarts of house-made beef stock from one of Brooklyn's better local butcher shops. The stock was pale, and the only ingredients listed were beef bones and water. So it wasn't a brown stock made with roasted bones, and it lacked all the aromatics (onions, carrots, celery, garlic, herbs, and more) that a good stock should include. All they did was throw some beef bones in a pot and boil them. I could tell by how the stock gelled at refrigeration temperatures that it had a good deal of gelatin from those bones, and I could smell a real beef aroma—something the boxed mass-market stuff totally lacks—but that was the extent of it. Definitely not good enough to make a classic sauce like sauce bigarade.
My solution was to roast the duck trimmings (wing tips, neck, and even the back if you've spatchcocked the bird) as well as the classic array of aromatics until browned, and then simmered all of that in the pale beef stock to create an improved brown stock.
This is a method you can and should use, even if you're starting with a good quality brown beef or veal stock that isn't in need of any doctoring: by simmering the roasted duck trimmings and additional aromatics in the stock, you're laying the groundwork for a bigarade sauce that's a hybrid, part stock-based and part integral (since it's flavored with some of the duck itself).
Into the Citrus Depths
This is where a lot of duck à l'orange recipes go off the rails. Disconnected from its bitter-orange roots, cooks dose the sauce with too much sweet orange juice, then sometimes add insult to injury by garnishing the sauce with supremes of even more sweet orange flesh.
To get back to the recipe's roots, I tracked down some bitter oranges and made the sauce with them first. It's sad they aren't easier to find, because they make a damned fine sauce. Bitter oranges are, of course, bitter, but they're also sour (hence why they're sometimes called sour oranges). On top of that, they have a complex floral aroma that neither navel oranges nor lemons can deliver.
Some recipes add orange bitters, orange essential oil, or orange liqueur to make up for the lost complexity when bitter oranges aren't used; I experimented with this but didn't love the results—none of those ingredients add the bitter-orange flavor you need, and in some cases they add stuff you don't, like additional sugar or barrel-aged notes.
Another key difference is that the zest, which is added to the sauce as a garnish and to flavor it further, is quite a bit tougher than navel orange zest. In both cases the zest needs to be blanched in boiling water first to soften it and strip away some of its intensity, but bitter orange zest takes a lot longer to get there—at least fifteen minutes, compared to one or two minutes for navel orange zest.
Many recipes that use navel orange and lemon juice in place of bitter orange call for a higher ratio of orange to lemon. But having tasted the sauce made with bitter oranges, I shifted my ratio to a 1:1 combo of navel orange and lemon. It's more sour and less sweet, which is exactly the point. If you can find bitter oranges, though, my sauce recipe will work just as well with those.
La Sauce Gastrique
The sweetness in sauce bigarade isn't meant to come from the orange component. It comes from the gastrique, which is essential to sauce bigarade. A gastrique is a sweet-sour mixture of caramel and wine vinegar, added in small doses to a sauce to flavor it. When done right, the acidity is bright and sharp, but lightly rounded out by the darkened sugar. It shouldn't be cloying or heavy-handed, like many of the sweet-sour sauces we encounter today.
There are two common approaches to making a gastrique, and both are flawed. The first is to put dry sugar into a saucepan, melting it into a caramel (you know, that whole "don't touch it except to brush down the sides of the pot with a wet pastry brush" nonsense?); the vinegar is then added to that caramel once it's done. The advantage to this is that it's easy to judge the caramel browning since it happens before the vinegar is added. The problem is that it doesn't work well on all types of heating elements, and, if you're not careful, some areas of the sugar can burn before it's all melted.
The second method is to mix the vinegar with the sugar, then boil it until enough of the vinegar's water has cooked off to allow the sugar to caramelize. This method is faster, and lowers the risk of scorching the sugar, but it's also incredibly difficult to judge the level of caramelization, since the red vinegar called for in sauce bigarade is dark red, making a visual assessment of the caramel color nearly impossible. It's very difficult to get consistent results this way.
Much, much better is to use the wet technique for making a caramel, which Stella has written about before. To do it, you add water to the sugar first, which wets and dissolves it, speeding up the caramelization process while helping to prevent scorching. The water cooks off as the mixture boils (which, incidentally, you can swirl and stir and otherwise monkey with to ensure even browning, no wet pastry brush needed), and it's clear to the eye when the caramel reaches a nice deep amber color.
At this point, you can add the vinegar in very small additions, gently swirling as you do; it will boil and bubble violently, so take your time to avoid a boil-over. Some of the sugar might seize up a bit, but if you keep swirling, it'll dissolve back into the solution quickly.
I boil the gastrique for a couple minutes longer, just to reduce it slightly, then set it aside until it's time to add it to the sauce.
Finishing sauce bigarade is easy once you have all the pieces in place. Your enhanced stock should be strained of any solids, reduced to about one cup, and skimmed of any fat or scum. Your citrus juice should be squeezed, the zest cut into a fine julienne and blanched. Your gastrique is ready, and you have a couple tablespoons of cold butter at the ready.
Add the citrus juice to the stock and reduce it slightly, until the mixture lightly coats the back of a spoon (nappé, as the French say). Now stir in the gastrique one teaspoon at a time, tasting as you go, until the sauce hits a perfect sweet-sour balance. It should lean sour and have some intensity to it, but be careful—too much gastrique can quickly ruin a sauce.
Whisking constantly, work the butter into the sauce, making sure to keep the sauce below the boil, lest it break. It should be silky and glossy, the butter helping to enrich, thicken, and temper the acidic edge of the sauce even more.
Now add the blanched citrus zest and season the sauce with salt and black or white pepper. At this, you're done, it's time to eat. It's a savory dish, as it should be. Save the sweets for dessert.
How to Make Duck à l'Orange
December 12, 2018
1 whole duck (about 5 pounds; 2.25kg)
Vegetable oil, for drizzling
1 medium carrot, diced
1 medium yellow onion, diced
1 large celery rib, diced
2 quarts (2 liters) brown beef or brown chicken stock (see notes)
1 tablespoon (15ml) tomato paste (optional)
4 ounces (115g) granulated sugar (about 1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon)
1/2 cup red wine vinegar
Zest of 1 navel orange or 2 bitter oranges, cleaned of any white pith and cut into a fine julienne
2 tablespoons (30ml) fresh navel orange juice or 1/4 cup (60ml) bitter orange juice
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice (omit if using bitter orange juice)
Freshly ground white or black pepper
2 tablespoons (30g) cold unsalted butter
1 teaspoon cornstarch or arrowroot (optional, only if needed)
If desired, you can spatchcock the duck (see notes). To do so, use poultry shears to remove the backbone by cutting along both sides of the spine from the cavity to neck ends, then flip the duck and press down on the breast to flatten it.
Trim away any excess skin around the duck's neck and cavity openings. Cut off duck wingettes and wing tips at the joint, leaving the drumettes connected to the duck; remove neck and any giblets from the cavity. Refrigerate trimmed wing ends, neck, and spine (if using) until ready to make the sauce; reserve giblets and trimmed skin for another use, or discard.
Prick duck skin all over with a sharp paring knife, especially where the skin is thickest, being careful not to cut into the meat below. In a large pot of boiling water and while wearing heavy kitchen gloves to protect your hands from the heat, dip the duck into the water for 2 minutes. Remove, allowing boiling water to drain off before transferring duck, breast side up, to a wire rack set in a rimmed baking sheet.
Season duck all over, inside and out, with kosher salt. Refrigerate uncovered for at least 1 hour and up to 24 hours.
When ready to roast the duck and make the sauce, preheat oven to 425°F (220°C) and set rack in middle position. Set trimmed wings and neck (plus backbone, if you've spatchcocked the duck) on a rimmed baking sheet along with the diced carrot, onion, and celery and drizzle lightly with oil, rubbing to coat all over; if using tomato paste (it will help darken an overly white stock), rub it all over the duck and vegetables as well.
Roast duck trimmings and vegetables, stirring one or twice, until browned all over, about 25 minutes (check often, as you do not want anything to scorch or burn).
Add stock to a large saucepan and bring to a simmer. Transfer roasted duck trimmings and vegetables to the stock. Pour some boiling water onto the baking sheet and scrape up any browned bits, then add that liquid to the stock, as well.
Gently simmer stock and vegetables until reduced by about half, about 2 hours (timing can vary wildly as evaporation rates depend on the pot dimensions and other factors, so keep an eye on it); occasionally skim off and discard any scum or rendered fat that accumulates on the surface.
Fine-strain stock and discard solids. Add stock to a smaller saucepan and continue to gently simmer until reduced to about 1 cup (225ml); continue to occasionally skim off any scum. Set aside.
Meanwhile, increase oven to 450°F (230°C). Roast duck (you can leave it on the wire rack set in the rimmed baking sheet) for 30 minutes; this can produce some smoke, so open your windows if necessary.
Reduce oven to 300°F (150°C) and continue to roast duck until an instant-read thermometer registers around 175°F in the thickest parts of the thigh and breast, about 45 minutes if the duck is spatchcocked and 1 hour if whole (it's okay if some parts of the duck get hotter, it's meant to be well done and will not harm the duck). Remove duck from oven and set aside to rest.
While duck is roasting, add sugar to a small saucepan. Add 1/4 cup water and set over medium heat. Stir with a fork until syrup comes to a boil, then simmer without stirring until syrup is honey-colored, roughly 6 minutes, shaking and swirling as needed to ensure even caramelization. Continue cooking until syrup is a rich mahogany color, about 4 minutes longer.
Remove from heat and add vinegar in very small increments while carefully swirling the saucepan; the caramel will boil and bubble violently at first, so adding the vinegar in very small amounts at first will help prevent a boil-over. Once the gastrique has calmed down, you can add the remaining vinegar more quickly, swirling the whole time. Some of the caramel may seize up at first, but it will dissolve back into the solution on its own.
Return gastrique to medium heat and bring back to a boil, then reduce heat to maintain a strong simmer and cook until it is very slightly reduced, about 2 minutes; stir, if needed, to dissolve any last traces of hardened sugar, then set aside.
In a clean small saucepan, bring about 1 cup of water to a rolling boil. Add orange zest and cook until softened, about 2 minutes for navel orange zest and 15 minutes for bitter orange zest. Drain and set blanched zest aside.
When ready to serve, return duck to oven just long enough to reheat and re-crisp the skin, 5 to 15 minutes, depending on how much it's cooled off.
Meanwhile, add navel orange and lemon juices (or bitter orange juice) to reduced stock and bring to a simmer. Simmer gently until reduced enough to lightly coat the back of a spoon, about 5 minutes.
Add gastrique 1 teaspoon at a time until sauce tastes nicely sharp with a clear sweet-sour character. You want to taste the gastrique but not have it clobber the sauce; too much can ruin the sauce (you may only need a 2 to 4 teaspoons to accomplish this). You will have leftover gastrique, which you can reserve for another use (it can be drizzled on grilled or roasted vegetables or used in another sauce).
Season sauce with salt and pepper. Working over very low heat, whisk in butter until the sauce is silky and smooth; do not allow it to boil once the butter is added, lest the sauce break.
The sauce at this point should lightly coat the back of a spoon, and if you drag your finger through it, it should leave a clear path. If it doesn't, it may be too thin (a sign your stock didn't have enough gelatin in it originally). If this happens, add 1 or 2 teaspoons cornstarch or arrowroot to a small bowl and stir in a spoonful or two of the sauce to make a slurry with no lumps, then whisk that slurry back into the sauce, allowing it to gently simmer for a minute or two to thicken the sauce.
Add blanched zest and let very gently simmer for 1 minute to infuse into the sauce.
Carve duck and serve, spooning sauce on top or alongside.
Wire rack, rimmed baking sheet, instant read thermometer, poultry shears (optional)
One whole duck has enough meat for two hungry diners or four less famished ones. If you are serving more people, consider doubling the recipe (you will need to double everything except the gastrique, of which this recipe produces more than enough).
This recipe requires a good quality homemade stock that's loaded with natural gelatin and flavor from beef or chicken bones and aromatic vegetables. Mass-market store-bought stocks and broths will not work here (they will make a very poor sauce), but if you live near a good butcher or other store that sells higher-quality frozen homemade beef stock, you can use it here (you'll know if it's good enough if the stock retains a firm gelled consistency at refrigerator temperatures).
You can leave the duck whole, or spatchcock it by removing the backbone and pressing it flat. Both approaches work well. The advantage of spatchcocking the duck is that you gain the backbone for the sauce, and it cooks a little faster. Leaving the duck whole is less work, and still produces great results, though.
Make-Ahead and Storage
The duck trimmings and aromatic vegetables can be roasted in advance, infused into the stock, and the stock can be strained and reduced down to 1 cup ahead of finishing the sauce; refrigerate in an airtight container until ready to use. The gastrique can be made up to 5 days ahead and kept refrigerated. The duck can be roasted fully and then set aside at room temperature for up to 2 hours before returning to oven to reheat and crisp before serving.
|Nutrition Facts (per serving)|
|Servings: 2 to 4|
|Amount per serving|
|% Daily Value*|
|Total Fat 176g||225%|
|Saturated Fat 60g||301%|
|Total Carbohydrate 49g||18%|
|Dietary Fiber 1g||3%|
|Total Sugars 37g|
|Vitamin C 11mg||53%|
|*The % Daily Value (DV) tells you how much a nutrient in a food serving contributes to a daily diet. 2,000 calories a day is used for general nutrition advice.|