Better No-Knead Bread Recipe

Improved technique and even better flavor.

Sliced no-knead bread on a wooden cutting board.

Serious Eats / Mariel De La Cruz

Why It Works

  • Using a Dutch oven to cook the bread increases radiant energy and humidity, mimicking a professional bread oven. 
  • Allowing the dough to rest for a long period of time lets autolysis break down the long protein strands, eliminating the need for physical kneading.
  • Increasing the salt level and resting the dough in the fridge improves the bread's flavor.

I'm telling you right off the bat here, that as far as personal innovation goes in this article, there's not all that much. All I'm doing here is taking someone else's brilliant idea and breaking it down for you a bit, offering a few suggestions and other applications.

That said, I've never seen what I consider to be a really satisfactory explanation of the science behind the No-Knead Bread recipe, so I'm gonna try and fill that hole here. And what cool science it is.

In 2006, Mark Bittman introduced the world to a recipe from Jim Lahey of Sullivan Street Bakery, which had a whole bunch of home cooks opening up their Dutch ovens and exclaiming oh my goodness—I can't believe I just did that! It certainly had me thinking that.

The No-Knead Bread recipe became an instant hit, and, I'd be willing to wager, started off an entire generation of home bakers on an entirely new journey.

Here's how the recipe works: Combine flour, yeast, and salt in a bowl. Add water and stir with a spoon. Allow to sit overnight. Shape into loaf and allow to rise. Bake in a preheated Dutch oven.

That's it.

Wooden spoon beginning to mix flour into water in silver mixing bowl.

What emerges from the Dutch oven is a crisp, crackly, deeply colored loaf of bread with a crust that snaps and pops as it cools. Slice into the bread and you see the open, airy, wildly bubbly crumb of the best artisanal bakeries with a tender, chewy texture. Nearly perfect bread, in other words.

Now, there are those (including myself) who'd criticize the flavor. The original recipe was under-seasoned (as Lahey himself has even admitted), and with its short, warm fermentation period, it doesn't develop the rich, complex, malty flavors of a truly great loaf. But these are minor quibbles in what is otherwise a completely revolutionary recipe.

Overhead shot of rustic loaf of bread on wooden cutting board.

Even more interesting to me than that it works is how it works, because by understanding the how, we can then modify the recipe to fit many different baking situations, even improving its flavor.

But before we get there, let's take a quick look at the awesome science behind this equally awesome recipe.

Going Dutch: Why Baking Bread in a Dutch Oven Works

Well-used blue Le Creuset Dutch oven on stovetop

While the no-knead part of the no-knead dough recipe certainly has some cool action going on, at least for home bread bakers (and we'll get to it soon), the real important innovation here is baking the bread in a Dutch oven, and it works in two ways: by increasing the radiant energy heating the bread, and by increasing the humidity of the baking environment. For those of you who don't know what a Dutch oven is, it's a thick-gauge, large pot with a heavy, relatively tight fitting lid. Want to read about our favorites? Here's our review of the best Dutch ovens on the market.

You see, a ball of dough isn't the homogeneous blob that it appears to be. It's in fact a very complex network of bubbles of carbon dioxide gas both large and small produced as living yeast consumes sugars. These bubbles are separated by thin, stretchy, flexible sheets of gluten (that's the network of proteins that provides structure to good bread).

Closeup of cross-section of well-fermented bread filled with holes

How does a ball of raw dough go from being small and dense to large, light, and airy? Through a phenomenon known as oven spring.

When that dough first enters a hot oven, both the carbon dioxide gas inside those bubbles as well as some of the water vapor trapped in them begin to expand due to the increase in heat. This expansion causes the stretchy bubbles to inflate—for a little while. Eventually, the proteins that make up the gluten will coagulate and set, preventing the dough from expanding any more. The trick to airy bread is to get those bubbles to increase in size as rapidly as possible, giving them plenty of volume before the proteins have time to set.

This is accomplished by transferring as much energy as possible as fast as possible to the dough. And that's where the Dutch oven comes in.

Most folks tend to get inordinately obsessed with temperatures. I can't get my oven up to 600°F, or the floor of that wood fired pizza oven gets to 800°F! In reality, it's not temperature that matters, but energy, and the transfer thereof. Indeed, if temperature were the only thing that mattered when it comes to how fast something gets cooked, then we'd be able to stick our hand into a 212°F (100°C) pot of boiling water just as easily as we could reach into a 212°F oven, and we know that that's not the case, right?

What I'm getting at is this. Place your Dutch oven inside a 500°F (260°C) oven and give it an hour or so to heat up. Now, the air inside that Dutch oven is going to be at or around 500°F. There's no way for it to get hotter, because unless you are providing some sort of external energy source, there's no way for an object to get hotter than its surroundings. Basic thermodynamics here.

However, place something inside that 500°F Dutch oven, and you'll transfer energy to it far faster than you would if you placed that same something on the shelf of your full-sized oven. Why? One word: radiation.

A rustic loaf of bread sitting in a Dutch oven.

See, the thick cast iron (or stainless steel, or ceramic, or whatever your Dutch oven is made of) sides of a Dutch oven can hold onto a massive amount of heat energy, and that energy is constantly being emitted in the form of electro-magnetic radiation.* The walls of your regular oven do the exact same thing. However, because a Dutch oven is so much smaller, and because radiant energy decays over distance, objects inside the small, enclosed space of a Dutch oven absorb much more energy through radiation than an object sitting in the center of a large oven.

*Mostly in the infrared range.

Think of it this way: You are the loaf of bread, and the walls of the oven is a circle of kids in stormtrooper costumes, ready to barrage you with a hailstorm of foam missiles shot at low velocity out of Nerf-N-Strike Alpha Trooper guns. In a normal oven, these storm troopers are pretty far away—say, 100 feet. They'll shoot at you with all they've got, but only a relatively small number of their darts will actually make contact. You get mildly annoyed.

Now take that same scenario, but change their striking distance to a mere 10 feet. Same number of kids with guns (that is, same temperature), but this time, many many more of them are actually gonna be able to hit you. You get screaming mad, blowing up just like a balloon. All make sense now?

Getting Wet: The Importance of Humidity

On top of all that, there's another factor involved: humidity.

Professional bakers often use steam-injected ovens in order to increase the humidity of the baking environment. This is because moist air transfers heat much more efficiently than dry air, once again increasing the rate of transfer of energy between the oven and the loaf of bread. Moisture also causes starches on the surface of the dough to gelatinize, a key step in producing the microscopic bubbles and bumps that add crunch and texture to your bread, like this:

Closeup of tiny bubbles on golden brown crust of a rustic bread loaf

Pretty, right?

So that covers the baking method, and truth be told, it's a method that works no matter how you make your original dough. Now we can look at the actual "no-knead" part of the no-knead bread recipe.

Feeling Kneady: How to Develop Gluten Without Kneading

When you first hear it, it sounds impossible. From experience, I know that in order to produce great bread, I need to knead the dough until it forms a significant amount of gluten, right?

Well let's take a look at the dough on a microscopic level and see what's really going on.

Flour is composed mainly of two things: starch and proteins. Of these proteins, two of them glutenin and gliadin are the most important. They're the guys who get together to form gluten.

Hand holding stretchy and loose piece of bread dough.

In their normal state, the long, kinky proteins (no, not in that way) are tangled up with themselves, like a knotted fishing line. Your goal is to untangle the proteins, tie them together into a longer line, then use those lines to weave a net, which can be used to trap carbon dioxide produced by yeast. This is what kneading accomplishes.

By gently rubbing the proteins against each other, you stretch them out and cause them to line up and cross-link. With enough kneading, you eventually form them into sheets of gluten.

So how does the no-knead bread recipe, which, appropriately, has no kneading involved, produce the same effect? With the help of enzymes. Flour naturally contains enzymes that break down long proteins into shorter ones in a process called autolysis (auto meaning "self" and lysis meaning "break down"). Bakers have known about this process for years, and many incorporate an autolysis step into their recipes, mixing together flour and water and allowing it to rest before adding the remaining ingredients and kneading (salt can inhibit the action of autolysis).

Wooden spoon mixing wet bread dough in silver mixing bowl.
J. Kenji Lopez-Alt

After the proteins break down into shorter pieces in this way, they become much easier to untangle and re-align, greatly increasing the efficiency of kneading.

The No-Knead Bread recipe simply takes this concept to the extreme. After you mix your ingredients together and let them sit around at room temperature for a long, long time (at least 12 hours, and up to 24—remember, there's salt in the dough which inhibits autolysis, so you need to compensate for this), the proteins are broken down so much, that even the tiniest of mechanical actions can cause them to align and link up.

Huh? But I thought this was no knead dough, not "tiniest amount of kneading" dough.

Yes, indeed it is, and truth be told, there is some kneading going on, but it's not being done by you, nor any other human or even by a member of the kingdom Animalia, for that matter. It's the yeast.

Let's take a quick look through a time lapse series of photos of the dough as it sits overnight.

0 Hours: Dough is still lumpy. Gluten formation is minimal.

Bread dough in early stage of fermentation in large glass measuring bowl

4 Hours: Enzymatic action has broken down some proteins, causing the dough to slacken and spread.

Bread dough in early stage of fermentation in large glass measuring bowl

8 Hours: Yeast has produced quite a bit of carbon dioxide. As these bubbles slowly grow, their stretching causes proteins around their edges to align with each other.

Bread dough in mid-level stage of fermentation in large glass measuring bowl

12 Hours: Slowly but surely, the bubbles moving through the dough, effectively forming the same gluten that would be formed by manual labor.

Bread dough fermenting and rising in large glass mixing bowl

16 Hours: The yeast has completed its task, both leavening and kneading the dough for you. Thanks, yeast!

Very soft bread dough fermenting and rising in large glass mixing bowl

What you're left with is a slack, easy-to-work dough that stretches beautifully, and bakes up with excellent gluten structure and massive bubble formation. Since no-knead doughs require a large amount of hydration (usually water has to make up at least 70% of the weight of the flour, as opposed to, say, white bread which is closer to 60% or a baguette, which is more like 65%), they can be a little challenging for first time bakers to work with. They stretch easily, practically pouring out of their rising vessel.

My advice is to use plenty of flour, and practice, practice, practice!

Soft bread dough covered in thick layer of flour on wooden cutting board

Improving No-Knead Bread

The main complaint I had with the original No-Knead Dough recipe is not the technique or texture of the final product—it's the flavor. First off, it's way undersalted (which, again, Lahey admitted after the original recipe ran), presumably to keep the salt from inhibiting autolysis too much. I've made no-knead bread with up to 2% salt with no problem, so I can only chalk it up to a misprint or an error. My normal rate is 1 1/2% salt.

But worse than that is the background flavor of the bread itself.

Yeast produces different byproducts depending on the temperature it ferments at. So dough formed with a warm ferment ends up with a sour, yeasty off-flavor, as opposed to the richer, maltier aromas you get from bread fermented at cooler temperatures. As I've shown before, giving lean doughs like this a stay in the fridge for three to five days can massively increase its flavor and its performance. Same goes for the no-knead bread.

After allowing it to rise at room temperature overnight, I'll stick mine directly into the refrigerator for three days. There's another advantage built into this as well: Cold dough is much easier to handle. Gluten gets stiffer as it cools, which means that refrigerated dough will be much simpler to shape into a ball or a long loaf, or whatever shape you wish to bake it in.

After shaping, cover it with a bowl or a flour-coated kitchen towel and let it rise at room temperature for a couple of hours to take the chill off it and leaven for the final time before slashing it with a sharp knife (this allows it to expand faster in the Dutch oven and makes it look pretty), and baking.

Hand using knife to score top of flour-covered bread dough

How do you know your bread is done when you bake it? Same way you know your meat is done: with a thermometer. As bread bakes, water is both evaporated and bound into the structure of the crumb. This occurs pretty much in correlation with the internal temperature of your bread. Once it reaches around 209-210°F (98-99°C), not much else is going to happen except for a bit of burning, so yank it out and let it rest.

Red instant thermometer poking into crust of golden brown loaf of bread

If you want to make your life even easier, get yourself a good gram scale to allow you to easily calculate ingredients without having to dirty up measuring spoons, cups, or bowls. Using a scale and a metal bowl, you can make bread and end up with only a single bowl to wash!

Here's the basic method I use:

To 100 parts flour, add 1.5 parts salt and 1 part instant yeast. Whisk those together. Add 70 parts water, and stir to combine. Cover, then let rise overnight. Transfer to the fridge, let ferment for three days, then turn dough out onto a well-floured surface. Shape dough, sprinkle with flour, and cover with a floured cloth. Let it rise for at least two hours and up to four at room temperature. Slash, then bake in a preheated 450°F (230°C) Dutch oven for 15 minutes with the lid on. Remove the lid, and continue baking until it hits around 209°F, 30 minutes or so. Let it cool.

Silver mixing bowl filled with flour on top of digital kitchen scale

The greatest part about no-knead dough is that you aren't limited to one type of bread. The same method can work for rustic loaves, boules, baguettes, and yes, even pizza dough.

I made this pizza here using the exact same dough that I used to bake the bread above. See how nicely it browns after its three-day cold ferment?

Overhead, closeup shot of Neopolitan-style pizza

I tried baking pizzas using a sort of modified version of the Dutch oven technique (I preheated a Dutch oven upside-down in a hot oven, lifted the base off, placed the pizza directly on the overturned lid, then covered it with the base again), but it wasn't nearly as successful as the already pretty great (if I do say so myself) skillet-broiler method, so I stuck with that.

Check out this awesome hole structure in the crust:

Cross-section of well-fermented pizza crust filled with holes

Now if that ain't one beautiful pie, I don't know what is.

June 2011

Recipe Facts

4.4

(21)

Prep: 5 mins
Cook: 60 mins
Active: 15 mins
Rising Time: 86 hrs
Total: 87 hrs 5 mins
Serves: 4 to 6 servings

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Ingredients

  • 300g (10 1/2 ounces; about 2 cups) bread flour or all-purpose flour

  • 4.5g (about 3/4 teaspoon) salt

  • 3g (about 1/2 teaspoon) instant yeast

  • 210g water (7 1/2 ounces; about 1 cup minus 1 1/2 tablespoons)

Directions

  1. In a large bowl, combine flour, salt, and yeast and whisk to combine. Add water and stir with a wooden spoon until no dry flour remains. Cover bowl tightly with plastic wrap and let sit at room temperature for at least 12 and up to 24 hours.

    A two-image collage. The top image shows the dry ingredients, unmixed, in a large metal bowl. The bottom image shows the dough after the water stirred into dry ingredients.

    Serious Eats / Mariel De La Cruz

  2. Transfer container to refrigerator and let sit for at least 3 and up to 5 days.

    A metal bowl holding the dough, covered with plastic wrap, on a ceramic counter.

    Serious Eats / Mariel De La Cruz

  3. Remove dough from refrigerator and turn out onto well-floured surface. Turn once or twice and form into loaf shape. Cover with a well-floured kitchen towel and allow to rise at room temperature for at least 2 hours, and up to 4.

    A two-image collage. The top image shows the dough turned out to form a round loaf shape on a well-floured cutting board. The bottom image shows the loaf of dough after it’s risen and has increased in size.

    Serious Eats / Mariel De La Cruz

  4. Meanwhile, adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and preheat oven to 450°F (230°C), with a heavy cast-iron or stainless steel Dutch oven placed inside it.

    A blue dutch oven placed inside of an oven to preheat.

    Serious Eats / Mariel De La Cruz

  5. When dough has risen, slash top with a floured knife into 2 or 3 slashes, 1/2 inch deep. Remove Dutch oven from oven and working quickly, drop dough inside. Place lid back on Dutch oven and return to oven. Bake for 15 minutes, then remove lid and continue to bake until center of bread registers 209°F (98°C) on an instant read thermometer, about 30 to 45 minutes longer (time will vary depending on shape of loaf).

    A four-image collage. The top left image shows the loaf of dough on a stone counter with 3 slashes on the top. The top right image shows the dough now inside of the preheated dutch oven. The bottom left image shows the Dutch oven now removed from oven after being in for 15 minutes, showing that the now-baked bread has a light golden brown crust. The bottom right image shows the Dutch oven, removed from the oven again after an additional 30-45 minutes of baking time, showing the deeply golden brown crust of the fully baked bread.

    Serious Eats / Mariel De La Cruz

  6. Remove Dutch oven from oven and remove loaf of bread with a spatula or tongs. Allow to rest on a wire rack for at least 15 minutes before slicing and serving. Unused bread can be stored at room temperature wrapped in foil for up to 3 days, though it may need to be refreshed in a hot oven or toaster before serving.

    The fully baked loaf of bread placed on a black wire rack over a tiled countertop.

    Serious Eats / Mariel De La Cruz

Notes

You can modify this recipe easily to bake loaves of any size. The important thing to note is the ratio of ingredients: 100 parts flour, 1.5 parts salt, 1 part instant yeast, and 70 parts water.

Special Equipment

Dutch oven, gram scale, instant-read thermometer

Nutrition Facts (per serving)
182 Calories
1g Fat
36g Carbs
6g Protein
Show Full Nutrition Label Hide Full Nutrition Label
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Nutrition Facts
Servings: 4 to 6
Amount per serving
Calories 182
% Daily Value*
Total Fat 1g 1%
Saturated Fat 0g 1%
Cholesterol 0mg 0%
Sodium 293mg 13%
Total Carbohydrate 36g 13%
Dietary Fiber 1g 5%
Total Sugars 0g
Protein 6g
Vitamin C 0mg 0%
Calcium 9mg 1%
Iron 0mg 3%
Potassium 55mg 1%
*The % Daily Value (DV) tells you how much a nutrient in a food serving contributes to a daily diet. 2,000 calories a day is used for general nutrition advice.
(Nutrition information is calculated using an ingredient database and should be considered an estimate.)