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A couple of weeks ago, I stumbled across Sarah Karnasiewicz's Wall Street Journal article about chilaquiles, that classic hangover dish of oily tortilla chips, spicy salsa, and plenty of melty cheese that's particularly effective at sopping up any extra drinks from the night before. In her article, Karnasiewicz describes another day-after dish she relies on: a buttery tangle of torn lasagna noodles amped up with a touch of umami-rich soy sauce, brightened with fresh lemon juice, enriched with grated cheese, and made into a complete meal with the addition of a few runny poached eggs.
Butter, cheese, and eggs all in one dish? That was a pasta I could get behind, I thought. The ingredients were in my shopping bag by the time I got home that evening.
I made just a few small changes to Karnasiewicz's recipe, cutting down slightly on the luxurious amount of butter she called for, and thickening up the rich sauce with a few spoonfuls of starchy pasta water. I also quadrupled the amount of chopped fresh herbs in the original recipe; after all, this is summer, when herbs are in abundance and at their best. The resulting dish was everything I'd hoped for—nutty with brown butter, a little salty with soy sauce, but somehow, impossibly, light with zingy lemon juice and fragrant herbs. I'll definitely revisit this recipe the next time I've had one too many.
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