Chef Erik Bruner-Yang of Toki Underground fame has a new project in the works, but it's not slated to touch down on H St. until later this year. Development of Maketto, Bruner-Yang's send-up to Southeast Asian street food, is humming along; in the meantime, the chef has installed his team at Hanoi House on 14th St. for a three-month residency.
For the rest of the summer, Bruner-Yang and Chef de Cuisine James Wozniuk will be serving six-course, family-style dinners Monday through Saturday for $30 per person in order to try out different flavor combinations and techniques for Maketto. Bruner-Yang describes the residency as "a time of practice and creativity," an opportunity to "test dishes that the chefs love to eat—foods that they grew up on and dishes that they fell in love with during their travels throughout Asia and more."
The team will be switching up the menu on a weekly basis, if not more frequently. They'll also be circulating dim sum carts with items like Steamed Pork Buns and Pickled Pineapple, ranging in price from $2 to $10. With heavy influences from countries like Cambodia and Taiwan, dinners will feature dishes like Wagyu Lok Lak and Crispy Fried Prawn Heads. Considering Toki Underground's diminutive kitchen, Bruner-Yang is relishing the opportunity to cook on a broader scale. "There's a lot of resourcefulness and hard work that goes into Toki," he says, "It's absolutely a great foundation for Maketto."
Maketto at Hanoi House
Reservations are required through OpenTable (and they're going fast).
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