In my North Loop neighborhood, a bright red food truck recently appeared in a desolate parking lot. Now it's suddenly lively—dudes wearing Ray-Bans chill at picnic tables under pecan trees. They vibe out to a twangy band playing a giant string bass like it's a guitar while onlookers roll by on bikes wondering what happened.
It's all thanks to this new truck, Melvin's Deli Comfort, assembling exquisite sandwiches from their house cured meats and homemade condiments. The delightfully greasy Croque-Monsieur, rich with melted Gruyère cheese, is the perfect hangover antidote, but their Pork Confit Sandwich ($9.00) stole the show.
As I walked back home with my sandwich, packed lovingly in a bakery box, the smell of pungent mustard greens wafted out from the corners. A thin layer of melted brie was spread on the bottom of a dense roll, topped with a slab of seared pork belly confit, and finished with the wilted greens. A mild vinaigrette and Melvin's own homemade mustard delicately tempered their bitterness. The pork confit, made from bellies poached for hours in lard, had a subtle gamey flavor. The juicy slab was firm on the outside, tender in the middle, and gleefully separated into bite-size chunks as I bit into it. Pork belly, mushroomy brie, vinegary greens, and yellow mustard are all strong flavors on their own, but they somehow balanced each other to create a perfectly harmonious sandwich.
I was disappointed that the sandwich wasn't accompanied by a pickle, but their homemade chips, made of thinly sliced potatoes fried until browned and perfectly crisp, more than made up for it. Welcome to the neighborhood, Melvin's Deli Comfort!