Vegetarian: Kale and Cabbage Gratin

[Photograph: Lauren Rothman]

For the most part, I think, food lovers have come a long way with regards to vegetarian eating: by now, most of us know that "meat-free" does not automatically imply "light" or "healthy" or even "not decadent." Except maybe this guy.

Take, for example, my dad. For at least as long as I can personally attest to, he's loved food of all kinds and was never exactly your typical meat-and-potatoes kind of guy. Still, though, when I was growing up we had meat at every dinner unless we were eating pasta; my dad just didn't think an evening meal without meat could be indulgent or filling enough. Luckily, over time, my health-conscious mom has managed to mold him just slightly, and they even (happily) eat at vegan restaurants sometimes. The times, they are a-changin'.

This recipe is a great example of a rich, comforting vegetarian dish. Sure, it's loaded with healthy cabbage and its dark green cousin, kale. But it's also topped with cheese and butter. Vegetarian? Yes. Meager? Certainly not.