In this great nation of ours, one could eat a different sandwich every day of the year—so that's what we'll do. Here's A Sandwich a Day, our daily look at sandwiches around the country. Got a sandwich we should check out? Let us know. —The Mgmt.
Like the restaurant itself, the tortas at decade-old Maria Selma in Houston fly under the radar. The torta section is one of over a dozen on the good-sized menu, and when the taste hits for one of these Mexican-style sandwiches a humble taqueria usually comes to mind rather than a more polished place like this.
But the tortas are done very well here, like nearly everything else. The Al Pastor ($9.95)—featuring a judicious amount of marinated pork, a few shreds of lettuce, slices of tomato, slivers of avocado, and bits of onion—arrives in two halves, allowing for easier enjoyment; the pieces of pork and its associated sauce can be unruly sandwich participants. The big, light telara bun made in-house does admirable duty holding it together, though the bottom might get a touch soggy by the time you get to the second half. No matter, this is a satisfying sandwich, and another reason to visit this very adept neighborhood restaurant.