Amuse-bouche: Berliner Kalbsleber
Berliner Veal Liver seared with Ras El Hanout, sweet & sour Apple-Potato chutney, and Watercress.
The apple-potato chutney's sweet-sourness cut into the richness of the liver and kept it from being overpowering.
Seared herring fillet pickled in vegetable broth with pickle gelee, grilled pearl onions, sliced radish, Atsina cress, and sweet-pickle sorbet.
This "unrolled" pickled herring dish blew everyone away. The sweet, sour sorbet played perfectly with the lightly seared herring. The pickle gelee below it was almost like fruit leather in texture and provided a great chewy contrast to the tender fish.
Berliner pea soup with bacon, cream, and Nolly Prat around a poached crayfish-pickle salad with Affila cress.
The bowls were served with the poached crayfish salad alone, then filled with the thin, pearly-green soup at the table. The light, fresh taste couldn’t have been more different from the heavy, thick dish usually evoked by the words ‘pea soup.’
Veal meatballs nestled in potato-beet mash, kaper berries, Königberger sauce with kapers and cream, watercress.
Kristof admitted that Königsberger Klopse was a dish where he couldn’t bear to diverge from the original too much. Other than the addition of red beets and watercress, this dish is much the same as how he says his mother made it.
Berliner Luft 20.12
Fluffed egg-creme with bourbon vanilla and white wine, pear compote with red wine, purple curry, and honeycress. Side of pear ice cream with Pop-Rocks and honeycress.
This crackling, popping dessert did not lack in presence. The relatively straightforward side added life to the very sweet ‘Berliner Luft’ (Berlin Air). The airy, fluffy cream on top of the dark, spiced pear compote was intense, and the cold sweetness of the pear ice cream cut through its richness nicely.
Kristof and Mariana Mulack
Here's the brother and sister duo.