From the kitchen of the Larder at Tavern, James Beard award-winner Suzanne Goin's tony Brentwood takeaway shop, this is a tuna sandwich with some seriously good breeding. It even comes smartly attired, daintily wrapped in brown butcher paper and tied up with a bow. But the Niçoise ($16) defies all expectations of decorum. Once liberated from its adorable packaging, this messy, briny assemblage of flaky Spanish tuna; just hard-boiled egg; mounds of sensuous black olive; and fresh tomato, cucumber, and greens will not be contained. Though the hearty housemade baguette (crackly exterior, lightly chewy interior) does its best to rein in this wayward sandwich, the ingredients still ooze out onto your fingers, leaving you with the decision of whether to go decorous with a napkin or resort to some devious finger-licking—I opted for the latter. Like all of Larder's lunchtime sandwiches, the Niçoise comes with a bag of freshly made sweet potato chips and a little cup of pickles, making for a grown-up sack lunch at a decidedly grown-up price.
Larder at Tavern
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