Mark Bittman's tour of Parisian steak frites joints was a vicariously pleasurable read, and I found myself trying to come up with an excuse to fly to Paris to try each and every one of them. Maybe we need to do an all Paris week on Serious Eats. What do you think?
As mouthwatering as the story was, he didn't really explain the differences between French beef and American beef. The French generally don't age their meat, so you don't get that fantastic minerally flavor the best dry-aged prime beef has in the States. I may be wrong, but they don't grade meat over there, and I don't think they serve much in the way of what we call prime meat here. After the jump, some entries from his list, and my own recommendation.
Le Relais de Venise
271 Boulevard Pereire 331-4574-2797 Steak frites (only thing they serve)
Le Severo 8, rue des Plantes 331-4540-4091 Cotes de Boeuf, Fries
Le Bistro Paul Bert 18 Rue Paul Bert 331-4372-2401 Entrecote, squab
Chez Georges 273 Boulevard Pereire 331-4574-3100 Rib Roast, cheese plate from Marie Quatrehomme
Au Boeuf Coronne 188 Avenue Jean-Jaures 331-4239-4444 Rump steak, pommes soufflees
He missed my favorite steak frites in Paris:
Le Fontaine de Mars 129 Rue Saint Dominique 01-47-05-46-44
Finally, in general the best Paris restaurant website is Patricia Wells's. Who knows? Bittman himself may have consulted it before he came up with his list.
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