Mid-Range Burgers

After a little more than a year and a half spent focusing primarily on mom-and-pop burger joints on Serious Eats site A Hamburger Today, I felt it was high time to explore the world of burgers in the "casual dining" sector. More than a few AHT readers had emailed expressing the opinion that Houlihan's or Red Robin or T.G.I.Friday's had surprisingly good burgers. Countless television commercials touting the fare at these bar-and-grill type restaurants played a part, too, getting me off the couch and into the booths of four of the nation's most recognizable chains in the course of one day.

My mission was to sample cheeseburgers, collect visual intel, and report my findings to you, our burger-loving readers. I sampled standard cheeseburgers at Houlihan's, Applebee's, T.G.I.Friday's, and Red Robin, asking for medium-rare or as close to it as possible. Below are the results.

Mid-Range Burger Roundup: Houlihan's
Houlihan's
Locations: 80 in 21 states [restaurant finder]; reviewed at 139 Flatbush Ave., Brooklyn NY 11217
Cost: $8.79 (comes with choice of fries, coleslaw, or tortilla chips and salsa)
Meat: 3/5
Bun: 2/5
Toppings: 4/5
Cheese: 3/5
Presentation: 4/5
Overall: 3/5

First up was Houlihan's, the smallest chain among those that I tried, with 80 locations in 21 states. Of the four casual dining options of the day, Houlihan's was the most upscale, with a decor that might be described as "slightly swanky"--dark wood accents; dark, moody lighting; a conservative amount of framed retro French movie posters on the walls; and a low-key vibe that matched the Stereolab soundtrack that back the muted Jets game on a handful of strategically placed flat-panel TVs. Service was adequate--friendly but not overbearing.

Mid-Range Burger Roundup: Houlihan's

Mid-Range Burger Roundup
Applebee's
Locations: 1,804 in 49 states [restaurant finder]; reviewed at 395 Flatbush Ave. Extension, Brooklyn NY 11201
Cost: $7.59 (comes with fries)
Meat: 2/5
Bun: 4/5
Toppings: 3/5
Cheese: 2/5
Presentation: 3/5
Overall: 2/5

Not more than a few blocks away from the Houlihan's, Applebee's was the next stop on my burger tour. With 1,804 locations in 49 states, you've likely been to an Applebee's, so descriptions are almost unnecessary. This one varied very little from the ones I'd grown up around near Overland Park, Kansas, which is corporate home to the chain--plenty of art on the walls to look at, brass rails, and stained-glass lighting fixtures. Service here, too, was friendly, with very attentive hosts and servers, and the food arrived quickly.

Mid-Range Burger Roundup

Mid-Range Burger Roundup: T.G.I.Friday's
T.G.I.Friday's
Locations: 576 in 47 states [restaurant finder]; reviewed at 372 Fulton Street Brooklyn NY 11201
Cost: $10.99
Meat: 3/5
Bun: 3/5
Toppings: 2/5
Cheese: 4/5
Presentation: 3/5
Overall: 3/5

Upset at the lackluster showing at Applebee's, I was looking for burger redemption at T.G.I.Friday's. I ended up at an interesting location: the former Gage & Tollner, a landmark Brooklyn restaurant until its closing in February 2004. Though locals bemoaned the fact that a chain replaced the venerable institution, a T.G.I.Friday's is not entirely out of place here; it moved into a space with cherrywood accents, a mahogany bar, and cut-glass chandeliers--just the type of atmosphere the branches I've visited elsewhere try to evoke.

Mid-Range Burger Roundup: T.G.I.Friday's

Mid-Range Burger Roundup: Red Robin
Red Robin
Locations: 307 in 35 states [restaurant finder]; reviewed at 265 State Hwy. Route 3E, Clifton NJ 07014
Cost: $8.99 (comes with "bottomless" steak fries)
Meat: 4/5
Bun: 4/5
Toppings: 4/5
Cheese: 3/5
Presentation: 5/5
Overall: 4/5

The last burger of the day, which I ate sometime around 10 p.m., was from Red Robin. For this stop, I took out a Zipcar and made the 14-mile, two-hour journey to Clifton, New Jersey, the nearest location to my home. Perhaps it's a bit unfair to throw this one in the mix, since Red Robin is a casual-dining concept based on burgers, whereas the other three do not place the noble sandwich at the center of their business. But it serves as an example of what the other bar and grills should aim for. Here, the burger's price was in line with the first three sites but it far outstripped them in terms of quality.

Mid-Range Burger Roundup: Red Robin

And thus ended my day and night recon of the mid-range casual-dining burgerworld. Though I'm disheartened by what I found, I realize there are some decent sandwiches to be had. For that reason, I will expand my scope and explore other chains in the near future--notably Ruby Tuesday, which had closed for the evening by the time I made it through the Lincoln Tunnel. Also on the list: Bennigan's, Chili's, and any others that you might wish to send me to (leave your suggestions in the Comments).