• Location: Brooklyn
  • Favorite foods: salt, ditalini, broth, sausage, squid, basil, fresh tomatoes, extra virgin olive oil, shitake mushrooms, asparagus, peas, white beans, eggs
  • Last bite on earth: crispy, piping hot, extra salty, salted squid with 2 sliced hot pepper rings from Hop Kee - 21 Mott Street, NYC

Latest Comments

16 Great Ways to Eat Squid and Octopus in NYC

salted squid with hot peppers at Hop Kee

polpi in purgatorio at Peasant

Win Pop Chart Lab's Plethora of Pasta Permutations Poster

glorious soup thimbles
for fingers short and teeny
my all-time favorite: ditalini

Cook the Book: 'Franny's'

penne with fresh peeled tomatoes, garlic, butter, and basil

Pasta alla Carbonara

in my experience, you need a 1:1 ratio of pasta to pork. 2:1 will be pretty dry.

the glory of carbonara is the wild frenzy at the end...

I take the eggs, separate their yolks, and slide them into a solo cup as the pasta is cooking.

Once the pasta is just al dente, drain it quickly and toss it briefly in the pork pan over high heat. Then separate the pasta into serving bowls, sliding one yolk on top of each plate and instructing your guests to stir vigorously. Shower with black pepper.

Nicoletta: What Michael White is Really After

Yeah, believe me incurring a defensive Kenji post is the last thing I was going for here. I tell most people I SPEAK TO about SE and specifically about Food Lab.

Dustin R. articulated it much better than I did - maybe when I said "dubious ethics" I was taking all of this way too seriously, so to speak.

As for sellouts, I see what you're saying on perfection vs. having a real life, but there's a balance. You CAN have it both ways. Maybe it won't be quite as immediate or lucrative as your former Wall St. COO-adviser wants it, but I'm pretty sure Michael White wasn't a starving artist before Nicoletta opened.

Nicoletta: What Michael White is Really After

I KNOW you guys won't like this, but I'm going to say it: you're on dubious ethical ground here. You clearly have a relationship with Chef White, and although it sounds way more credible to have reached the conclusion you did, it still reads a little slimy.

After visiting Nicoletta myself, my thoughts were very similar to what Pete Wells wrote in the NYT. Whether it's intentional or not (and it sounds like it is), the blatant aspirations for franchising combined with the less-than-brilliant food left a really bad taste in my mouth.

I would love to hear SE's thoughts on why things like this bother people (like me). I know others have the same feelings. If the quality doesn't go down, what's wrong with being enterprising, right? Thing is...the quality almost always goes down. I think we hunger for the organic deterioration of places like Di Fara, Don Peppe, Hop Kee, etc. When a beloved person or business sells out, it's always a tough pill for the early adopters to swallow.

The Less Than Favorable New York Times Review of Nicoletta

the review was SPOT ON. i wrote a significantly less eloquent version on Yelp a few weeks ago with the same themes. the most distressing aspect of Nicoletta is not the pizza - which is tasty and fine - it's everything before the pizza, starting with the restaurant's conception. this place has nothing to do with giving people a pleasurable food experience and everything to do with taking people's money.

What to make with escarole?

1) rigatoni, cannellini beans, and crumbled pork/chicken sausage
2) sauteed with bread crumbs, grated cheese, and garlic
3) sauteed in the juices of a roast w/ garlic and then nestled underneath a chunk of that roast when served...SO GOOD

and ALWAYS use red chili flakes with escarole.

Videos: 'Eat It, Don't Tweet It' by American Hipster + Key of Awesome

guilty as charged @BitchinFixins, on both counts. the song is awesome, the video is cool, and the message is pretty clear. i'd be pretty surprised if anyone "missed the point."

Grilling: Chicken Under a Brick with Lemon, Garlic, and Rosemary

brilliant...i go in with ground up fennel seeds, chili flakes, super coarse salt, black peppercorns, parsley, chervil, rosemary, sugar, garlic + 2 lemon wedges in each breast.

10 minutes dying high heat skin down uncovered (and now, insert brick)
30 minutes medium heat skin up covered

we call this "tailgate chicken"

Cook the Book: Molto Batali

holiday dinner with best friends from middle school

Cook the Book: 'The Food52 Cookbook'

holy trinity chili, that's the holy trinity of meat: beef, pork, italian sausage