Momofuku Ko: Does the Service Matter?
Though not a great one for formality, I do think it is important to be comfortable enough to enjoy your food. I'd love to try the food at Ko, and don't need to be pampered ,hovered over, or draped with fine linen. I don't need a long adjective-laden description of what I'm going to eat, and I'm happy to have whatever's being served. It all sounds like great fun.
But I can't hope to concentrate on/enjoy the food while sitting on a backless stool at a counter, because my back and legs will hurt the whole time. I know there are a lot of people like me in this regard, because I know many of them. personally. I guess it's so difficult to get in that another layer of exclusivity doesn't make a whole lot of difference.
But I think it would be a mistake to imply that any problem folks have with the setup is due to fussy pretentiousness or a need to be coddled. Real chairs are not extravagent- they have them at Bruegger's for heavenssake.
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