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James Boo

James Boo

Barbecue Bureau Chief, New York Contributor

James is Serious Eats' on-again, off-again Barbecue Bureau Chief, writing on the food, culture, and travel of barbecue in his column, When Pigs Fly. He was first inspired to write about food after completing a two-week BBQ road trip through the South and tends to define best meals in terms of how thoroughly he had to wash his hands when done.

James also contributes stories to Serious Eats in New York, where he is Founder and Editor-in-Chief of the $10-or-less food guide, Real Cheap Eats. He's also edited and written for his own international food and travel blog, The Eaten Path, since 2007.

In his most recent interview with the Serious Eats team, James refers to reading The Fountainhead as a "guilty displeasure." He stands by this statement, but will not stand by indiscriminate use of pork belly in New York restaurants.

  • Website
  • Location: Brooklyn, NY
  • Favorite foods: Meals eaten by hand figure prominently in my finest memories.
  • Last bite on earth: Will be taken OUT OF CRIME.

Tortas Neza in Corona: Of Fútbol, Family, and Good Food

On a sunny afternoon in Queens, Galdino Molinero invited me into his truck to photograph the making of an epic sandwich. He's the owner of Corona mainstay Tortas Neza, which serves some of the best sandwiches on this side of the Rio Grande; a clear standout in stye and substance from the mass of antojitos carts and taco trucks parked all along Roosevelt Avenue. More

Why You Should Become a Regular at Jodie's in Albany, CA

The joint's six seats place everyone a good word's length from the griddle, the prep counter, the other customers, and Jodie himself—and Jodie Royston is not a man who takes money from strangers. Naturally, it takes only one meal to become a regular, especially when one takes hunger into account. The restaurant's sprawling menu—over 64 specials splayed across two walls in the form of cheeky laminates and repurposed receipts—offers a bounty of flavor beyond the fried chicken leg. More

A Sandwich a Day: Breakfast Torta at Fast and Fresh Burrito Deli

Boerum Hill's standby for Mexican standards, Fast and Fresh Burrito Deli is not quite in the same league as the taquerias of Sunset Park, but it's nothing to scoff at if you need a serviceable torta or a pair of tacos in a pinch. The deli's breakfast tortas ($3.50 each, $4 after 11:00 a.m.) make for an particularly good meal on the go, offering a few options for mixing and matching. More

Chicago Barbecue: Rib Tips from Lem's Bar-B-Q and Honey 1

If you're in the Windy City and in the barbecue mood, this is something to order by the bucket (and isn't that always fun?). Rib tips. They're one of the top sellers at Lem's Bar-B-Q and it's not difficult to understand why. Each tip points to a deep blend of flavors, merging the powerful tastes of charcoal and hickory smoke with the simple sweetness of pork. Lem's tangy, spicy barbecue sauce adds a molasses-colored kick before the tips find their way into a freshly popped paper bag. More

A Sandwich a Day: Lexington-Style Chopped Barbecue at Lexington Barbecue

Lexington Barbecue, which has been serving oak-smoked pork shoulder in various forms since the 1960s, offers its barbecue in sandwich form for less than $4. If you intend to get serious about it, ask for yours with "extra brown" (bits of meat cut from the edges of the shoulder). Lexington's chewy, smoky chopped pork, crowned with a scoop of sweet and tart barbecue slaw and stuffed into a factory-made hamburger bun, is a classic handful of American barbecue. More

The 2011 Big Apple BBQ Block Party: New York's Annual Moment in Barbecue

The 9th annual Big Apple Barbecue Block Party was hardly different from the 8th annual Big Apple Barbecue, which wasn't all too different from the 7th annual Big Apple Barbecue. Fortunately, after nine years of building a bigger and better barbecue, the Block Party's repetitions taste more like tradition. A curated festival of Southern-style barbecue in New York City is not something to turn down lightly, no matter how many times we've lined up for our favorite pulled pork sandwich in the past. More

Have You Ever Tried Maryland Pit Beef?

The state of Maryland practices barbecue in a rare form. I discovered this for myself on a grassy road outside of Baltimore, in front of a truck that had been built around a barrel-shaped smoker and decorated on all sides with the words: "PIT BEEF." After taking my order, the ladies of Bull on the Run picked up a rested round roast and nestled it into their deli slicer, carving away thin, pink ribbons and piling them unceremoniously onto a roll. More

Bronx Eats: Pupusas and Ceviche at Pupuseria Salvadorena, Soundview

Too bad about the shy loroco, but everything else sounds wonderful. A freshly made pupusa is the stuff of dreams.

Afternoon Snack: Cumin Lamb Kebabs in Flushing

I once spent an afternoon tasting lamb and chicken kebabs from every one of these carts in the downtown Flushing area. By far, the tastiest pick was at the intersection of Kissena and Main, near the Queens library (http://theeatenpath.com/2009/03/29/finding-the-q-in-flushing/).

I'm not sure how the other carts have fared since, but that particular cart hasn't gone downhill, so I haven't bothered to check :)

Sausage City: Podhalanka's Polish Sausage Sandwich

Podhalanka is a real gem. In addition to the sausage and the pierogi, I really enjoyed their golabki and placzki. I also was a huge fan of the rack of assorted Christmas cards stowed next to one of the side tables. Let's hope it sticks around for (at least) another 29 years!

Get to Know Us: James Boo, Barbecue Columnist

@NickJohnson - true, drinking+driving in Russia is no joke. then again, in my case it was about 230am, we averaged 15 mph over a distance of 3-4 deserted city miles, and the son was pretty much watching over the dad and laughing at all of us. i was more terrified by the sober drivers in India who would take me headfirst into oncoming traffic. and in context i'd feel less safe after 1am in my hometown, when i know that people are driving tipsy or worse at 60mph+ throughout Los Angeles and Orange County.

Get to Know Us: James Boo, Barbecue Columnist

@Robyn - MANFRIED FOR LIFE!

@thesteveroller - You had me at "now that stuff is nasty." Have you ever tried Taiwanese dried plum tea? Now that stuff is nasty. Look for it. I'll look for Black Balzams.

As for California... I'm kind of all over the map. I believe that L.A./O.C. = best food town in the country, in terms of sheer volume, diversity and price. The quality of everyday food in Berkeley and Oakland isn't as overwhelming, but the East Bay is where I really learned to love an honest meal. Plenty of good stuff outside the major metropolitan areas, even in some of the suburban regions.

Quick recommendations based on what I've eaten in CA this year:
-Oaxacan mole dishes at Gish Bac in LA.
-Pho ga at the place in Oakland chinatown that makes nothing but pho ga from freshly slaughtered, farm-raised chickens. I forget the name, but it should be easy to find. I hope you like chicken skin.
-Tasting menu at Mr. Pollo in the Mission, SF. $20 for four courses of California cuisine! outrageous!
-French dips at Philippe the Original (unbeatable).
-In-N-Out burger with fried mustard, grilled onions and chopped chilies
-Dinner at Jayakarta in Berkeley.
-Sev batata puri (a.k.a. dahi puri) at Hamro Aangan in Albany. I could eat these forever.
-Breakfast at Jodie's in Albany! I just wrote about this on SE, actually. My favorite place to eat in the world.

Food For Thought: Xiao Long Bao and Authenticity in Food

I come across the twists and turns of "authenticity" all the time in my barbecue travels. The calcification of food-as-immutable-artifact is certainly palpable in American barbecue, where regional styles that evolved so memorably as a result of the American restaurant boom have assumed the roles of "old testament" food (and these types of legitimacy claims are often fused with marketing campaigns that understand the selling power of "authenticity").

Robb Walsh, author of "Legends of Texas Barbecue," once told me that "integrity" might be a better word than "authenticity" when it comes to capturing the value of foods like smoked st. louis-style spare ribs. There's something to do that, but ultimately without a compelling context, any of these holy-grail words can be the subject of abuse. More often than not, it's best to let the food speak for itself and be part of a conversation, rather than a set of crosshairs.

Snapshots from India: The Best Vegetarian Street Food

YES. I love this snapshot series, and I love dahi puri!! Such an unsung hero when it comes to the coliseum of chaat. Thank you for these highlights.

Bronx Eats: Homemade Sausages and Smoked Veal from European Meat Markets, Lydig Avenue

Dukagjini. I MUST EAT AT THERE.

SXSW Guide: Where to Eat in Austin

If you can get ahold of a bike or a car, then even more wonderful eating awaits. A few of my favorite Austin haunts not covered here are:

-Hoover's! Show up hungry and ready for chicken-fried anything. Order a St. Arnold's Lawnmower to help you get through your magnificent feast of southern cooking.
-Al Pastor. It's a little ways off Southeast center, but serves some of Austin's best Mexican food.
-Mi Madre's for breakfast. Migas breakfast tacos ftw!
-The Whip-In for a full assortment of local beers, including Shiner specialties. Not sure about the food, but I always stop by the whip-in for beer when I'm in town, and they're always in a good mood.

Welcome Our New Editors!

@Will - Hambone, Director of Free Rides to Papaya King?

Welcome Our New Editors!

Can the team photo be reshopped so Hambone is in it, and 5 times the size he actually is?

A Sandwich a Day: Pastrami on Rye at David's Brisket House

@sugartoof - the rye is admittedly weak. David's isn't exactly a traditional deli, but that's also the source of its personality. This one's still a pleasure to eat -- something of a happy compromise between a through-and-through rye and the plain white you'd find next to a styrofoam box of ribs.

A Sandwich a Day: Pastrami on Rye at David's Brisket House

@Harvey - They are definitely open. I've been twice since the re-opened their doors. The boys are having a bit of a struggle filling orders quickly, but barring any surprises, David's is back in business.

A Sandwich a Day: Pastrami on Rye at David's Brisket House

@Paige - This could point to inconsistency, but I actually just had their brisket, and it was extremely moist! When you make it back, you might want to try a combo.

Santa Maria Barbecue: Tri-Tip Sandwiches

@guycooking - that is some seriously fine-tuned work with tri-tip! Thanks for sharing your experience and cooking tips.

11 Eggplant Dishes We Love in NYC

I love the double threat of eggplant in garlic sauce. I just had 456 Shanghai's rendition, and it was impossible to stop eating!

Was Tanoreen's eggplant napoleon in the running for these highlights? It's one of the most wonderful eggplant dishes I've had in Brooklyn :]

8 Great American Porters

I am a huge fan of Anchor Porter. I've yet to try Founders' -- thanks for the reminder!

The Santa Maria Style of Barbecue: Open-Flame Grilling

@downtownsf, @missvenuz, @winnercelebrationparty - I hear you on Jocko's. For a few different reasons I didn't end up eating there, and for better or for worse I decided not to throw the name into this story without any reporting on the food. It does seem like the place will deserve its own feature story on SE :)

@Burger365 and @thesteeveroller - These are some amazing local tips! The next time I take the 101 I will try to check those spots out. I paid a visit to Rancho Nipomo and was really impressed by what Richard, the pit master there, is doing with smoked tri-tip on telera.

@arman52 - I did make it to Far Western Tavern, but not for steak dinner (my loss). In fact, the parking lot pictured is from Far Western. I would not recommend their steak sandwich (a bit tough and not terribly flavorful), but their garlic soup and fries are both winners.

Serious Eats Day 2012: What Day Should We Celebrate?

All of my Saturdays and Sundays in February are marked on Google Calendar as "Eat Jell-O pudding and watch Charlie Rose." I'm pretty sure I can break that New Year's resolution one at least one of these dates to ring in the New Year With the SE Family :)

Basil Brick Oven: Good Pizza in an Unexpected Part of Astoria

Whoa, Max. Did you say pesto and potato pizza? I gotta try this.

The Vegetarian Option: Malatesta Trattoria

I love Malatesta! Great pasta, relaxed vibe, prompt service and (usually) low wait times. The Spinach gnocchi are amazing - I'm really glad you gave it the spotlight.

Announcing Serious Eats Chicago

Chicago is such a fantastic city for food. Can't wait to see what Nick and co. do with the new digs!

Serious Eats Neighborhood Guides: Robyn's Greenwood Heights (ish)

I love that Korzo and Luigi's are across-the-street-neighbors. Doughnut bun burgers and old-school pizza! Best friends FOREVER!

Meet & Eat: Baron Ambrosia (Justin Fornal)

This is tremendous. Baron Ambrosia is the real deal, and Bronx Flavor is possibly the only food+entertainment program worth watching. Well, besides the youtube video that plays over 300 instances of Iron Chef's "secret ingredient" reveal. Glasses raised!

Sesame Pancake-off: Prosperity Dumpling vs. Vanessa's Dumpling House

Totally agreed -- the duck pancake at Vanessa's is one of my favorite Chinatown treats, and I also find that pancakes at Prosperity tend to be too greasy and not consistently cooked. Prosperity's dumplings, though, tend to have a better texture and flavor. Sometimes I crave thick-skinned dumplings, but that's really just a sign to go hunting for shenjianbao :)

Scott's Bar-B-Q in Hemingway, South Carolina

Scott's only serves whole hog barbecue on Thursday, Friday and Saturday. During those three days the stores sells 15 to 20 hogs' worth (between 2,000 and 2,800 pounds) of smoked pork, attracting visitors from miles around. The rest of the week, Scott's is not much more than a half-stocked, rustic convenience mart with doors that seldom open for regular business. More

Payne's Bar-B-Q in Memphis for One of the Best Chopped Pork Sandwiches

Payne's Bar-B-Q, a family operation that has been in business since 1972, serves some of the best pork barbecue in Memphis, if not the country. The fact that the first thing on my mind whenever I enter Memphis is a Payne's sandwich is no minor detail. When most people I know think of Memphis barbecue, images of ribs come to mind. The barbecue sandwich, however, is just as important to the Memphis barbecue experience. Slow-smoked pork shoulder, pulled, sliced, or chopped, topped with red barbecue sauce and stuffed into a bun with a scoop of slaw. More