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From Serious Eats: New York

'Midtown Lunch' Inspires Indian Pizza Meet-up at Bombay Eats

This sounds great, and there is a place just down the road in Philly which has a unique take on Indian street food and Indian pizzas. Here is a link to a brief description:
http://www.philly.com/philly/blogs/the-insider/indian_pizza.html

And a link to their menu:
http://media.philly.com/documents/tiffinetcmenu.pdf


Very interesting, exciting and something new to us country folk down here in Philly.

From Slice

Blogger: Frank Pepe's 'Overrated, Overhyped, Awful'

I don't disagree, having never had Pepe's, and finding Sally's good, but not the best and certainly not worth the ridiculous wait.

HOWEVER, I would like to say how much we enjoyed Zuppardi's Apizza in West Haven, just a short drive from the over hyped places. They make wonderful pizza in a tradditional pizza oven, and they make some of the best pizza I've ever had. They also were so friendly and appreciative of our business. They had no attitude other than super friendly. Toppings were excellent.

From Slice

Coal-Oven Pizzerias Nationwide

I would like to add one place in Philadelphia. Fortunately, they have an old coal oven. Unfortunatley, they don't understand the fesh mozzarella. Let me in there to make my own pizza!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Marra's Cucina Italiana
1734 E. Passyunk Ave.
Philadelphia, PA 19148
215.463.9249

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Recent Comments | Response to Comments

From Serious Eats: New York

'Midtown Lunch' Inspires Indian Pizza Meet-up at Bombay Eats

This sounds great, and there is a place just down the road in Philly which has a unique take on Indian street food and Indian pizzas. Here is a link to a brief description:
http://www.philly.com/philly/blogs/the-insider/indian_pizza.html

And a link to their menu:
http://media.philly.com/documents/tiffinetcmenu.pdf


Very interesting, exciting and something new to us country folk down here in Philly.

From Slice

Blogger: Frank Pepe's 'Overrated, Overhyped, Awful'

I don't disagree, having never had Pepe's, and finding Sally's good, but not the best and certainly not worth the ridiculous wait.

HOWEVER, I would like to say how much we enjoyed Zuppardi's Apizza in West Haven, just a short drive from the over hyped places. They make wonderful pizza in a tradditional pizza oven, and they make some of the best pizza I've ever had. They also were so friendly and appreciative of our business. They had no attitude other than super friendly. Toppings were excellent.

From Slice

Coal-Oven Pizzerias Nationwide

I would like to add one place in Philadelphia. Fortunately, they have an old coal oven. Unfortunatley, they don't understand the fesh mozzarella. Let me in there to make my own pizza!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Marra's Cucina Italiana
1734 E. Passyunk Ave.
Philadelphia, PA 19148
215.463.9249

From Serious Eats: New York

'Midtown Lunch' Inspires Indian Pizza Meet-up at Bombay Eats

I had Indian Pizza on my last 2 trips to San Francisco. Zantes in the Mission. I sat down and ordered in. I am in love. (zantespizza.com if you want to check the menu).

I eat vegetarian out and it was unbelievable.

I have been searching for it on the east coast and was so glad to stumble on these two places!!

Thanks!

Michael

From Slice

Coal-Oven Pizzerias Nationwide

Max's Coal Oven Pizzeria in Atlanta (owned by Concentrics Restaurants--a small but growing empire of concept restaurants) is fairly recently opened. http://www.maxsatl.com/

From Slice

Pizzeria Trianon, Naples, Italy

@DogsnCats: lol......nice! I was tempted to put that very same Gino Sorbillo viideo in this thread......it pretty much gives out a recipe for pizza Napoletana.

Good of you to put that here and good luck in your quest for crispy chewiness!

Now, some jerky blogger that visits here used to have this video on the footer of their blog, until they ran into blog-oh-troubles and botched the whole thing!

From Slice

Pizzeria Trianon, Naples, Italy

I have never being in Italy too start,
I know a thing or two about cooking,
I love pizza,
I am trying to achieve that crispy chewiness,
I will make it.
Sorry I had to let it out.
During my researches, I came across this video, and humbly would like to share it with you, ehrr, People?
Again I ask thy forgiveness for my manners, and hope that the gate keeper won’t mind
Enjoy
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=snxHM5KFBsA

From Slice

Pizzeria Trianon, Naples, Italy

@steelecity..thanks for the research..I generally prefer the sauce rather than tomatoes but had some excellent pizza in SF this weekend that used heirloom tomatoes that were deeeelish!

From Slice

Pizzeria Trianon, Naples, Italy

@ LA: I scanned in the menu from Trianon. The pie Nick ordered, Margherita DOC, comes with little tomatoes, whereas the Margherita con bufala comes with the sauce. In hindsight, I wish I had gotten both so I could have compared the two types of mozz di bufala to see if there was a discernible difference between the regular and the doc.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/steelecity/3903305235/

From Slice

Pizzeria Trianon, Naples, Italy

@seriouspizza Actually I think we're in agreement with regards to regional styles. I've got no problems calling it anything other than neapolitan pizza if it's going to ruffle feathers - but let's be honest - there's a whole load of food products called 'Pizza' that I have trouble digesting!...just because I don't like them isn't going to stop someone using it as marketing on their product.
Best you can do is carry on the tradition regardless (and if the original article is anything to go by, pizza is still very much alive and well in Naples!) Doesn't always happen that way sadly but you can't engineer people's perceptions or opinions, but simply have faith that quality and good taste will continue to inform people that care.

FP

From Slice

Pizzeria Trianon, Naples, Italy

@foolishpoolish:I mostly agree with you actually,but disagree when it comes to taking a specific regional style ,altering it to suit your tastes/customers and still referencing it as what you started out with.I guess i'm just against certain things morphing into something else.Neapolitan pizza has certain characteristics that just even in the recent wave of popularity seem to be getting ignored or overlooked,possibly for the sake of mass acceptace,profit or just plain ignorance.How many times have members of this forum been outside of New York to other states and been astounded at what is being sold as a "New York style" slice?There are loads of regional and international styles of Pizza to suit all tastes,so i'm all for protecting the integrity of the one I happen to love.I don't champion any organisation or need any rules stuffed down my throat,but I do respect and support culture and tradition.It can be lost far quicker than the generations it takes to regain.

From Slice

Pizzeria Trianon, Naples, Italy

@Pblogger You hit the nail squarely on the head regarding Chris Bianco's approach. However, AM is not adding the salt to the dough, but to the sauce. I was thinking he put it on the dough directly and then added the other ingredients. But thanks for reviving the Pieman's post. I love that friggin' thing.

Ciao,

Paulie Gee

From Slice

Pizzeria Trianon, Naples, Italy

@Paulie: Good thing I remembered there was an actual picture of the salt being added from last year's Pieman's Craft post.

http://slice.seriouseats.com/archives/2008/10/the-piemans-craft-at-una-pizza-napoletana-east-village-nyc.html

From Slice

Pizzeria Trianon, Naples, Italy

@FoolishPoolish: sounds like Chris Bianco is your kinda man when reading your posts on this topic.

For the most part I agree very much BTW.

From Slice

Pizzeria Trianon, Naples, Italy

@seriouspizza Honestly I couldn't care less if what I eat is neapolitan pizza (by VPN standards) or not. It's just got to taste good!
Neapolitan pizza is a starting point imho. It's like pizza history, or pizza culture. It's important to learn about where pizza comes from but where you take it from there is what distinguishes great pizza.
I'd agree though that 'real' neapolitan pizza is and always will be best made in Naples with LOCAL ingredients. I am both amused and saddened when I read about 'artisan' pizzaiolos who cite mozzarella di bufala, san marzano toms and caputo flour as the perfect ingredients before reciting VPN guidelines, chapter and verse as 'the BEST pizza anyone could make'. They seem to miss the point that VPN exists primarily to preserve a geographically-specific pizza heritage. It's not a coincidence that the aforementioned ingredients are LOCAL to Naples...duh!

From what I can see, there are plenty of places around the world to get a technically perfect but soulless neapolitan pie. It really isn't rocket science (although it might cost you a pretty penny depending on where you live in the world) to obtain'authentic' (ie facsimile) Neapolitan pizza.
That's where I think Anthony Mangieri got it wrong in publicity/inteviews etc. - he made a big deal about authenticity rather than representing what he was REALLY making which was the best pizza he could with the best ingredients HE knew. I'd pay good money to eat THAT.

FP


From Slice

Pizzeria Trianon, Naples, Italy

@Pblogger The last time I was at UPN I had the Filetti for the first time and really enjoyed the coarse salt crystals I bit into on top of some of the tomatoes. I never noticed him salting the dough before putting the pies in the oven. I'm gonna give that a try.

Ciao,

Paulie Gee

From Slice

Pizzeria Trianon, Naples, Italy

Not to bog this down anymore than I already have, but the type of salt, and as importantly how big the crystals are, have a big impact on salt perception.

From Slice

Pizzeria Trianon, Naples, Italy

Nick, those are fantastic pictures, both from capturing good shots and composition to post-photo editing. Very nice indeed and a nice write-up as well.

The very first picture looks so good it makes me want to print it and eat the paper. Capturing the almost "fuhgedaboutit" expression on the pizzaiolo's face is nice as well.

Also interested to see what you thought of Gino Sorbillo, if you went.

From Slice

Pizzeria Trianon, Naples, Italy

@seriouspizza: Yes, the pizzas at UPN were salted well. I'm not sure exactly what amount was added directly into the dough bill when making the dough, but Mangieri added a somewhat generous pinch of salt onto his pizzas while topping the skins just prior to firing the pizzas in the oven....at least on the two times I was there.

One must also remember that not all salts are the same. I love salt and have several types in my home at any given moment. I could put the exact same amount (weighed on a digital scale) of salt onto a pizza when topping and while the amount of salt is exactly the same, the perception of saltiness on the palate can be different, sometimes quite different, depending on the salt used. I've toyed around with this for esses and giggles when making pizzas.

Not saying that one salt is necessarily better than another, but some definitely do "pop" more in the mouth and high quality Sicilian sea salt from Trapani is one of these.

@FoolishPoolish: yes, the dough was done at ambient/room temperature. I would imagine someone who went often to UPN, like Ed Levine, would have a better idea of the types of consistency swings possible at UPN. Even Mangieri lamented that on some nights the pizza coming out of his oven "is s#*t"

I only went to UPN twice, but on each occassion the crust, both from a textural and flavor standpoint, was nothing short of stupendous...the most flavorful crust I have ever eaten. It was after eating at UPN that I basically crap-canned about 6 months worth of tinkering with pizza recipes and making pizzas and got some sourdough cultures of my own to start from scratch again.

From Slice

Pizzeria Trianon, Naples, Italy

Trianon was the first place I tried out in Naples and one of the better overall (I thought it was #4 of the 10 I tried).

@LA- Some come with sauce and some come with tomatoes, it depends on what you order. I still have the menu somewhere... I will try to scan it in and post the link. When I was at Trianon I had a margherita DOC that was bufala, sauce, olive oil and basil. Here is a picture of it (the next one in the set shows how the pies are "wet" in the middle): http://www.flickr.com/photos/steelecity/3186597244/in/set-72157612372962779/

@ Nick- did you try Da Michele, Gino Sorbillo or Pizzeria Salvo?

From Slice

Pizzeria Trianon, Naples, Italy

I think you are in a better position now actually?Eat a pizza in Naples first and then judge.Too many people are judging what they think is Neapolitan Pizza before they have a decent reference point in my opinion.

From Slice

Pizzeria Trianon, Naples, Italy

@seriouspizza I can definitely understand that - esp in the case of UPN where one would imagine the proteolytic bacteria (from the natural leavening) were much more of an issue than a (baker's) yeasted dough. Plus no refrigeration (presumably room temp fermentation) - it requires some degree of skill and experience to produce consistent pizza like that on a daily basis. More so, I would say, than for many pizzerias.
It's a damned shame he closed recently - I never got the chance to taste the results. Here's hoping AM opens up again soon.

FP

From Slice

Pizzeria Trianon, Naples, Italy

UPN had a reputation for being very salty.In fact when Ed Levine spoke about the rise of Artisan pizza makers at the NY Pizza Expo in 2005 the only memorable thing he said about UPN was along the lines of:
"What does AM bring to the table? SALT - you can really taste the salt in his Pizza !".Sorry Ed. if I didn't get it word for word,but that was the gist of it from memory.
Since he only made pizzas using cheese and / or sauce,it was either in his dough in large amounts or he had a liberal hand,and did not have to compensate as he offered none of the usual salt laden meats etc.?
With temps being higher in some countries and fermentation methods / times being played with,toppings offered ,individual nuances,personal perceptions etc.etc.the salt issue will always be a variable.

From Slice

Pizzeria Trianon, Naples, Italy

Yeah, that is one gorgeous and tasty looking pie! So they use tomatoes on the margherita not just sauce? Hmm..did they finally end the garbage strike? where did you stay in Napoli?

From Slice

Pizzeria Trianon, Naples, Italy

@Nick Solares
Cool article and great pics.

Interesting about Keste's pizza as "lacking in salt". From everything I've heard, the pizza there is pretty salty (>3% wrt flour apparently). Perhaps it was an off day? or perhaps the formula has changed? If not, then I can only imagine the pizza in Naples must have been very 'well seasoned' indeed.

FP

From Slice

Pizzeria Trianon, Naples, Italy

@nextgospel They may well, but I was asked my opinion and having eaten at Keste the week before I left, and just a few days ago after my return I thought the pizza was good but not as good. The problem? apart from completely lacking in salt, the ingredients were not of the quality that I sampled in Naples. For the record the only NYC pizza that I have tried that does compare to what I had in Naples, in terms of producing a Neapolitan style pie, was the sadly closed Una Pizza.

From Slice

Pizzeria Trianon, Naples, Italy

@nick
i have never been to trianon but i have been to naples, my family is from the area. and roberto of keste is widely respected there, and neapolitans themselves praise his pizzas. i think he came in second in a pizza contest with other pizzaioli from naples.....not bad...
so i would argue neapolitans would infact put keste in the same league
evry one i sent to keste said it's the real deal
gianluca rottura
pizzaandcoffee.com

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