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From A Hamburger Today

11 Burgers That Are Worth the Hype

Just had a Lounge Burger at the new Burger Lounge in West Hollywood, CA. (Also have 6 branches in San Diego). Outstanding premium burger and only $7.95. Their onion rings were also terrific, with nice Chipotle or Ranch dipping sauces). Can't vouch for the fries since I didn't try them, but they are claimed to be cooked "in the Belgian tradition".

I have no connection with them except as a satisfied customer.

As I mentioned elsewhere, I also had the Short Order burger at Nancy Silverton's new "Short Order" restaurant in the LA Farmer's Market; it was quite disappointing. She's a superb baker but may wish to follow the old adage, "Shoemaker, stick to your Last."

From Serious Eats

13 Cheeses Everyone Should Know

Parrano--a Dutch cheese that tastes Italian.

Cave Aged Gruyere from Switzerland.

Parmigiana Reggianito, an Argentinian copycat that is actually good and half the price of Reggiano.

Swiss Fondue cheese blend with an added kick--from Switzerland.

I never liked Muenster--it has a flavor note I don't care for. YMMV.

From Serious Eats

29 Touristy Spots in America That Are Actually Good

Strike Tour d'Argent. It;s not in America.

There are too many hotel restaurants to mention in Las Vegas that are both touristy and better than good. After all, it's basically a tourist town.

From Serious Eats

29 Touristy Spots in America That Are Actually Good

"Touristy"
"actually good"

Brents is among the best, but not touristy; Langers is both.

Pinks is not good.

Durgin Park in Boston, if it's still around, might be added to the list. Ditto for the Union Oyster House there.

Papaya King in NYC is both touristy and good. Ditto Zabar's

Lawry's original La Cienega location in LA is both touristy and good.

Tour d'Argent in Paris is both touristy (for the well-off tourist) and good.


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Recent Comments

From A Hamburger Today

11 Burgers That Are Worth the Hype

Just had a Lounge Burger at the new Burger Lounge in West Hollywood, CA. (Also have 6 branches in San Diego). Outstanding premium burger and only $7.95. Their onion rings were also terrific, with nice Chipotle or Ranch dipping sauces). Can't vouch for the fries since I didn't try them, but they are claimed to be cooked "in the Belgian tradition".

I have no connection with them except as a satisfied customer.

As I mentioned elsewhere, I also had the Short Order burger at Nancy Silverton's new "Short Order" restaurant in the LA Farmer's Market; it was quite disappointing. She's a superb baker but may wish to follow the old adage, "Shoemaker, stick to your Last."

From Serious Eats

13 Cheeses Everyone Should Know

Parrano--a Dutch cheese that tastes Italian.

Cave Aged Gruyere from Switzerland.

Parmigiana Reggianito, an Argentinian copycat that is actually good and half the price of Reggiano.

Swiss Fondue cheese blend with an added kick--from Switzerland.

I never liked Muenster--it has a flavor note I don't care for. YMMV.

From Serious Eats

29 Touristy Spots in America That Are Actually Good

Strike Tour d'Argent. It;s not in America.

There are too many hotel restaurants to mention in Las Vegas that are both touristy and better than good. After all, it's basically a tourist town.

From Serious Eats

29 Touristy Spots in America That Are Actually Good

"Touristy"
"actually good"

Brents is among the best, but not touristy; Langers is both.

Pinks is not good.

Durgin Park in Boston, if it's still around, might be added to the list. Ditto for the Union Oyster House there.

Papaya King in NYC is both touristy and good. Ditto Zabar's

Lawry's original La Cienega location in LA is both touristy and good.

Tour d'Argent in Paris is both touristy (for the well-off tourist) and good.


From Recipes

Perfect Pimm's Cup

Making a #1 Pimms Cup with Cock and Bull Ginger Beer (instead of the Vodka used in a "Moscow Mule" or the lemon squash in the traditional recipe) is both excellent and refreshing.

From Drinks

Taste Test: Orange Juice, the Pulp Edition

You have to read the labels. A lot of OJ comes from Brazil and there have been recent purity issues with that source.

Simply Orange, high pulp is very good. Some Supermarket private label brands are freshly squeezed from domestic oranges and are excellent. I believe Costco has one such.

From Serious Eats

Ask Nancy Silverton!

I ate at Short Order last Sunday The burger was an overpriced disappointment, and the window clerk inattentive and near-surly. In contrast, the croiissants and coffee at the adjacent Silverton bakery stand were superb and the babka looked like a winner,

Tonight I ate the Lounge Burger at the new Burger Lounge on Sunset and La Cienega. It was both delicious and superior in taste to the Silverton offerting, at almost half the price.

I find that many gourmet burger places are quite disappointing; I wonder why, I've been eating burgers for 65 of my 79 years, all over the world, so I think I have some basis for evaluation.

David Sternlight, PhD
Los Angeles

From Drinks

Why We're Paying More for Coffee

Coffee has many substitutes which cost far less per cup. Although the feinschmeckers (I am one such) may be willing to pay high prices for exceptional beans, the mass market is not, and it is the mass market that drives coffee prices.

A more accurate analysis would separate microroasted gourmet beans from the rest of the market. As taste for the former increase those prices rise (check Jamaica Blue Mountain for a worked example). But absent a massive crop catastrophe, mass market beans won't. There is no "shortage" of such green beans at non-gourmet prices.

Fortunately, some large producers provide excellent beans at mass markiet volumes. Check out Don Francisco's (J. Gaviña) Colombian Supremo (available in most supermarkets and via mail) for a good example from a long-trusted mass roaster.

From Serious Eats

Rant: What The New York Times Doesn't Know About Bánh Mì

When someone claims to be a food writer and not only displays massive ignorance of the cuisine reviewed but also misleads readers to the detriment of the best of such cuisine, he deserves to be publicly excoriated.

From A Hamburger Today

Reality Check: All American Cheeseburger from Jack in the Box

My favorites for taste, among the chains, are Carl's Jr. and Wendy's. The various incarnations of the "$6 burger" at CJ's are quite tasty.

I could never understand all the hype about In N Out Burger, but De Gustibus, I suppose. The meat is unremarkable, but I suppose all the bells and whistles (animal style, etc.) appeal to some minds.

A friend whose taste I trust recently ate at McDonalds, and surprisingly reported back that the "new" menu burgers (probably not _that_ new) are also tasty. If so, this would represent a stroke of enlightenment on the part of McD's management.

From Drinks

Drinking the Bottom Shelf: 40s of Malt Liquor

For a deep, rich malt taste, Maltstar (Israeli, Non-alcoholic) available at many Israeli restaurants and some Kosher markets.

From Serious Eats

Rant: What The New York Times Doesn't Know About Bánh Mì

Let me be succinct: If he ever gets interested in writing about Vietnamese soups, he should go Pho himself.

From Talk

Have you ever been so disappointed by a meal that you cried?

Anyone who criticizes others because 'children in Africa are starving' is both arrogant and insecure,

The best reply to that kind of "holier than thou" attitude is 'If I don't cry, will children in Africa be fed?'

From Serious Eats

Kenji's 10 Best Bites of 2010

And while I'm on the subject of amusing Swedish anecdotes, I visited the Museum of Art in Stockholm (dunno its actual name), and on entering saw a Picasso. Getting closer, it turned out to be a Svenssen. Then I saw a Seurat. Getting closer, it turned out to be an Andersson (names of artists illustrative) The museum was filled with Swedish artists painting in copies of various impressionists' styles. It turned out that the Swedish king of the time sent a bunch of art students to study in Paris, and they came back copying those styles. He was also reputed to be jealous of all the European "old towns" so he built his own version of an old town
outside Stockholm (Gamla Stan), but anachronistically the "medieval" architecture was built during the 17th or 18th century, I was told. More recently, some revisionists are claiming those buildings are several hundred years older than previously thought. (Again, cf Wikipedia for details).

Lest I be misunderstood, I have great respect for the Swedes, and am reminded of Saab and Bofors, among others, but there are some very amusing Swedish anecdotes. The Swedes have a tremendous sense of humor. The funniest movie I ever saw was Picasso's Avventyr (The Adventures of Picasso) now sadly unavailable. They also have their dark moments (cf. Ingmar Bergman).

David Sternlight

From Serious Eats

Kenji's 10 Best Bites of 2010

o.k., to be fair to the Swedes, the Wasa (aka Vasa) actually got about 2km into her maiden voyage before sinking. I visited it in Stockholm. There's a long and intereesting Wikipedia entry about it which should serve as a cautionary tale both to political advisors and MIT Naval Architects.

David Sternlight

From Serious Eats

Kenji's 10 Best Bites of 2010

Finally, on the subject of løjrom, "rom" is Swedish for "caviar" and "løj" is the name of the fish in Swedish. As far as I know it isn't named after a bookshelf at IKEA, but rather an obscure Swedish physicist who invented the Calculus 37 hours and 17 minutes before either Newton or Leibnitz, while contemplating the Swedish national naval treasure, the Wasa, whose main distinction was sinking about 200 feet away from its launching dock. Must have been the powerful Swedish Champagne it was christened with.

David Sternlight.

David Sternlight

From Serious Eats

Kenji's 10 Best Bites of 2010

Although Judaism forbids Voodoo, there is a nice big Kosher logo on the bag of Zapp's Potato Chips. Situational ethics?

David Sternlight

From Serious Eats

Kenji's 10 Best Bites of 2010

Morey's Fish Market is in Brainard, MN. I just checked their web site http://www.moreysmarkets.com/store/11-pickled-cured-caviar.html and the current price is $105 per kilo, which works out to $3 per ounce plus shipping. It is seasonally available.

I have no connection with them except as a very satisfied customer.

David Sternlight

From Serious Eats

Kenji's 10 Best Bites of 2010

The local Swedish caviar is called løjrom (pronouned lay-rom) and your photo is the classic way it is served. There's a big fish market near the Grand Hotel in Stockholm where you can buy it and eat it at long tables.

The local variety comes from a fish called the bleakfish, common in local waters. Due to overfishing, much of it now comes from a kind of herring on the U.S. Great Lakes, labelled in Swedish. It can be bought on the Internet from Morey's Fish Market, who ship it frozen packed in dry ice and styrofoam. A kilogram is somewhere around $100 or so plus shipping last time I checked. I tried it and it is both delicious and indistinguishable from the local Swedish product I ate in Stockholm, which made me an addict. Highly recommended. Serve as shown in your photo.

David Sternlight

From Talk

Best and Worst of Food Trends of 2010?

Good: Wider availability of Kosher meats and poultry in supermarkets and Trader Joe's.

Hummus wars and increasing availability of the good stuff.

More ubiquitous Kosher certification

Bad: Small plates at high prices; grazing at high prices. "Tapas" that aren't authentic Spanish.

Bacon in everything.

Gluttony as a virtue.

Recipe books with complex recipes the average buyer would never make.

Use of over-many ingredients to hide lack of simple creativity. Recipes aren't rocket science

From Serious Eats: New York

Spicy & Tasty: Can New York Clean Up Its Sichuan Act?

Finally, while I have people's attention, I've heard the "good" cold noodles (Shorty Tang style) referred to as both Ma Jaan Leung Mein and Dan Dan Mein, although the latter is often produced hot at some restaurants listing it on the menu.

What's the real scoop?

From Serious Eats: New York

Spicy & Tasty: Can New York Clean Up Its Sichuan Act?

And another thing. Most dry-fried dishes I recall from Joyce Chen's Little Eating Place had lots of shredded carrot and little or no celery or bean sprouts. Dunno if this was unique to the restaurant or was a particular sub-style of Szechuan cooking.

From Serious Eats: New York

Spicy & Tasty: Can New York Clean Up Its Sichuan Act?

As one who has made constant runs from MIT to Joyce Chen's Little Eating Place in Central Square in the early 1950's, I sorely miss both the Kan Shao Beef and the Yu Hsiang (not usually a beef cooking style) beef there. Regrettably the main Joyce Chen's never served those dishes AFAIK, and the Little Eating Place is long gone.

Many think of dry fry cooking as meaning Mongolian Beef. They are missing out on a range of dishes hard to find in NYC or LA.

I stocked up on Szechuan Peppercorns some time ago. Most recipes call for them to be roasted. I suppose pre-roasted won't keep, or are they also available in Chinese markets?

From Serious Eats: New York

26 NYC Sandwiches We Love

In a report heavily weighted by pork products, the quintessential and archetypiical NY Jewish deli sandwich culture is totally excluded.

No sale.

From Serious Eats

4 Things Every Cheese Shopper Should Know

That's Reggianito for the Argentine version (typo).
Thare's also a Dutch cheese called Perrano or some such that has a nice Italian flavor.

As to great eating cheddar, yes a little goes a long way. Crackers help, Any recommendations on widely available ones that go well with a good Cheddar?

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Sternlight got 37% correct on Quiz: How Much Do You Know About Soda?

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Sternlight got 55% correct on How Much Do You Know About Condiments?

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Sternlight got 44% correct on How Much Do You Know About Chocolate?

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About Sternlight

Website: http://www.sternlight.com

Location: Los Angeles

About: Home ethnic cook, world traveler, economist and energy policy wonk, flamenco guitarist

Favorite foods: Turf Cheesecake
Shorty Tang's Cold Noodles with Sesame/Peanut Sauce
Taramasalata
Hummus
Chicken or Beef Rendang
Kan Shao Beef
Yu Hsiang Beef
Chopped Chicken Liver with Eggs and Onions
Bagel, Lox, Cream Cheese and Tomato
Sachertorte mit Schlag

Last bite on earth: Chopped Chicken Liver with Eggs and Onions