I think Bruni's Ago review is a recent example of not recognizing a food critic and in turn getting a more honest reflection of the restaurant. Had Ago recognized him, perhaps they would have been a bit more attentitive and paid attention to detail. The food most likely still would have been crap, but perhaps crap with more effort.
Getting back on topic. I love the USQ Green Market... early in the morning. Definitely if you hit it past 9 AM, it is too overwhelming, but if you get there early I think you also get a bit more variety before things sell out. Think ramps a bit earlier this season. With the construction and the other aspects of USQ, you also avoid any overwhelming typical USQ protests or other vendors at that time.
The only bad thing that one has to deal with at USQ on Saturdays early in the morning are those people with dogs who let the leash run extremely long while they chat creating an obstacle course with a physical challenge trying to traverse the market.
Texas - Lone Star Bakery - The Round Rock Donut. People begin waiting at 2 am for the shop to open at 4:30 am every day. The yellowest insides ever - from organic eggs, not articficial flavoring. Mention Round Rock Donuts to anyone in Central Texas and everyone will know exactly where to go, what is needed and how good those donuts are.
I haven't expereinced that. I either bring my own bag or carry out the goods without a bag at both the Bowery and Union Square Whole Foods in NYC without incident. They actually encourage it.
We used to "cruise" the "Waterburger" after a Friday football game in highschool. You were only allowed to "cruise" if you were a football player or cheerleader. Everyone else was relegated to the Sonic.
You can download HQ quality versions from UKnova. Love it. Especially love the cameo by David Tennant in the final episode. That came about because he was roomates with Anabella Weir. Absolutely perfect comedy.
I just sent a Junior's cheesecake package to an old friend who just had a baby. They have a sampler option that I thought would be good for them to have given all the visitors they are going to have.
My mother used to send me meat by mail from the Elgin Smokehouse...and I was a vegetarian. She would also send me Hormel Hams...I think she would get me and my sister confused a bit.
My preschool had two variations of snacks. We were given count chocula or fankenberry cereal as a snack on Tuesday and Thursdays. Mon, Wed and Fridays were cream cheese and black olive sandwiches on white bread - the best and a favorite to this day.
For a year, I worked at a Nursing Home as an Activities Assistant. I was shocked and dismayed that they were informed well in advance of State Inspections. The flurry of activity and improvements was unbelievable. I guess if they had no advance notice, possibly they could have been shut down with nowhere for the residents to go? The standard of service should not have been different because they were going to be inspected and evaluated, but it most definitely was, in every department. I think the same happens in restaurants. No notice, anonymity and get paid by your employer, period.
A food reviewer (critic) should be anonymous and random. There should be no freebies, no pre-arranged meeting, and no chance of special treatment. He or She should get the same product and the same service as Joe Blow who just walked in from the street.
That's the way I see it. And I don't care if your reviewing McDonald's or Momofuku.
I have reviewed restaurants for a magazine where prior arrangements have been made. I've tasted some good things and was treated well on these visits. One chef even invited me back into the kitchen to watch naan bread cook inside a tandoor oven! I would hope the staff treated me the same way they would any customer. This covers the entire experience, from service and atmosphere to quality and presentation of food. But there is the possibility they tried to ramp up the "pamper" factor in hopes of gaining a favorable review. I have also written about restaurant experiences on my blog. On these occasions, I didn't reveal (at least verbally) to the staff of my food writing intentions, though the camera and notepad did come out. Whether this affected service or quality of food, I don't know. Perhaps I should return to a place again, without arrangements, to compare and contrast experiences.
Frank Bruni is recognized in restaurants. William Grimes was recognized (although he seemed to have a few anonymous months). Ruth Reichl was recognized, no matter how flashy her disguises. Bryan Miller might as well have had a neon sign flashing above his head. A critic who is not recognized at a major restaurant is a critic the house doesn't care about, and the sad thing is that there are maybe a dozen kitchens in the country skilled enough to change anything substantial about a meal, except for possibly portion size, when they do spot a critic. A kitchen can cook only as well as it is trained to cook, and the idea that there is some special meal it can pull out when a VIP walks in is a myth. Except of course at Daniel, which really does have a high gear.
I really can't believe that someone who's known to be a critic won't be given special attention in a restaurant. They may be giving an honest review of what they get, but what they get isn't necessarily what everyone else gets, and when I read reviews, I want to know what to expect, not what to expect if I were a critic, too. I second akbmeier's suggested read. I was always a little surprised to read how poorly Reichl was treated when she went into a restaurant "undercover."
Read Garlic and Sapphires: The Secret Life of a Critic in Disguise by Ruth Reichl. It is an easy read, humorous, and interesting. To the point of this forum topic, I recall a specific instance in the book in which the author's identity became known during the dessert course. The already delivered selection with scrawny raspberries and less than perfect presentation was wisked away and replaced with a perfect item sprinkled with huge ripe berries. No, the chef can't change his recipe when he knows who is dining, but he can save his best for the elite. (Whether 'elite' means critic, celebrity, powerful business person, or mobster) For the layman to trust a critique, it has to come from one who was served as a layman.
If you leave your apartment for any reason on a Saturday afternoon, you'll find the city unbearable. It's New York, that can't be helped. Even on the non-greenmarket days, Union Square is tough to walk through.
If I want fresh produce on the weekends, I either drag myself out of bed early or resolve to be patient with the Union Square crowds. It's MUCH easier to get there early than be patient, though.
I take the long way to the subway solely to walk through the market M, W & F mornings because it makes me happy. It's perfect and makes me *feel* healthy just walking by the green, red, yellow & pink produce.
But sadly I agree: Saturdays are unbearable. I've recently accepted defeat, and I simply don't go there past 10ish. That way the cell phone-chatters, dog-walkers and stroller-pushers can't make my blood boil.
Not to mention those dimwits who ride their bikes through the market!
I just discovered fresh doughnut holes at the Cherry Creek Farmers Market in Denver this past weekend. I forget the name of the stand, but you'll know it as they only sell fries (with delicious aioli) and doughnuts. The doughnuts are light, greaseless and go down easy. They are the best I've tasted in Colorado.
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