simon’s Profile
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The Vegan Experience Day 26: The Feed-A-Meathead Challenge
The China Study is a bad science. Not just a couple holes, the whole thing is claptrap.
The Vegan Experience Day 25: Can Vegans Still Enjoy Pizza?
Kenji - yum! sounds awesome.
Pour over cone vs French Press coffee
Sorry, I was referring to the kone by coava. To me it's the best of both worlds. You get more body than with a paper filter, but less grit than the French press. And there's no paper filters to throw away, or more importantly, to run out of at the worst time.
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Recent Posts
Can't see the comments in the most recent Food Lab post
Posted by simon, October 3, 2011 at 3:39 PM
Late night dinner options near the Art Students League?
Posted by simon, September 8, 2011 at 7:50 PM
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How to Make Homemade Chocolate Pudding Snack Packs
Posted by Liz Gutman, April 6, 2011 at 7:00 PM
breakthrough pizza crust for home ovens
Posted by shimpiphany, February 18, 2011 at 3:01 AM
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Recent Polls
simon answered "Crisp and curl" to Should pepperoni crisp and curl or lie flat?
Poll posted by Adam Kuban, February 7, 2011 at 9:00 AM
simon answered "Crumbs" to What's Your Favorite Cupcake Shop In New York?
Poll posted by The Serious Eats Team, December 17, 2010 at 12:00 PM
simon answered "Hill Country" to What's Your Favorite Barbecue In New York?
Poll posted by The Serious Eats Team, December 16, 2010 at 12:30 PM
simon answered "Sal and Carmine's" to What's Your Favorite Old-School Pizza In New York?
Poll posted by The Serious Eats Team, December 13, 2010 at 12:30 PM
Recent Quizzes
simon got 80% correct on Quiz: How Much Do You Know About Tropical Fruits?
Quiz posted by Joan Fang, June 14, 2010 at 10:00 AM
simon got 50% correct on Quiz: How Much Do You Know About Ramen?
Quiz posted by Joan Fang, June 1, 2010 at 9:00 PM
simon got 87% correct on How Much Do You Know About Beer?
Quiz posted by Katie Quinn, May 10, 2010 at 6:45 PM
simon got 90% correct on How Much Do You Know About Hot Dogs?
Quiz posted by Katie Quinn, May 3, 2010 at 6:30 PM
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Recent Comments
The Vegan Experience Day 26: The Feed-A-Meathead Challenge
Kenji - that is one of the refutations I had read. I meant both: the studies themselves, but the especially the interpretations of such published by Dr. Campbell. As you yourself acknowledge, the studies used for his "analysis" were for the most part epidemiological studies, using self reported data, performed with no controls. The "conclusions" Campbell comes to are not conclusions at all: his goal was to build a case for veganism from the outset, and he then cherry picks from the questionable-to-begin-with data to build his argument, ignoring some evidence that would dispute his claims and flat out lying (mostly by omission) about other facts. His entire approach is biased, yet is presented as incontrovertible scientific evidence.
"Campbell’s sin is not bad science through incompetence, but sensationalism through omission and generalization."
This to me is worse than bad science through incompetence. It is bad science through deliberate misrepresentation. I'd rather not continue to paraphrase so I will post a couple links:
http://www.proteinpower.com/drmike/cancer/the-china-study-vs-the-china-study/
The raw data presented in the book are pretty much useless for drawing any the conclusions Campbell is proclaiming, they are only worthwhile for building hypotheses which then must be proven or disproven through randomized controlled trials. And there are plenty of those that disprove his conclusions that animal proteins and fats are unhealthy. In fact, quite the opposite. The evidence shows that saturated fats from animal sources do not cause heart disease. They actually reduce inflammation that leads to metabolic syndrome which is the underlying cause for among other things, diabetes and heart disease.
http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2007/12/071203091236.htm
The notion that dietary cholesterol has an impact on cholesterol levels in the body is also a myth, at least as far as the negative impact of such is concerned. In fact, consumption of cholesterol has beneficial effect, raising the amount of "good" cholesterol. High "bad" cholesterol is secreted by the liver, not the rsult of eating too much of it in your diet, and this over secretion is actually linked to too much carbohydrate intake. Hello bread and pasta eating vegans, and all other low fat, high carb dieters!
http://www.livestrong.com/article/83353-cholesterol-myths-busted/
Deliberate omission of facts, cherry picking data from observational studies, presenting correlation as causation, all are capital crimes against science and disqualify all claims made by those who engage in such.
The Vegan Experience Day 26: The Feed-A-Meathead Challenge
The China Study is a bad science. Not just a couple holes, the whole thing is claptrap.
The Vegan Experience Day 25: Can Vegans Still Enjoy Pizza?
Kenji - yum! sounds awesome.
Pour over cone vs French Press coffee
Sorry, I was referring to the kone by coava. To me it's the best of both worlds. You get more body than with a paper filter, but less grit than the French press. And there's no paper filters to throw away, or more importantly, to run out of at the worst time.
The Vegan Experience Day 25: Can Vegans Still Enjoy Pizza?
Kenji - I imagine your mayo could be made with all kinds of pizza friendly flavors. Roast garlic. Zucchini. Pine nuts and basil. Red peppers.....
I made a "discovery" last weekend: celery juice blended with a liberal amount of soy lecithin and some xanthan. It turned into a spreadable soft gel with the same consistency as a good home made mayo. It was delicious, and had nothing else in it. No oil, no seasonings either. It can be done with any juice. Something to add to the vegan arsenal (xanthan is vegan right?)
The Vegan Experience Day 25: Can Vegans Still Enjoy Pizza?
"At the end of the meal, guess which pies had the least leftover slices? That would be the two cheeseless, vegan pies."
Well, if you're not eating any of the non vegan ones, they are at a distinct disadvantage. That's just math :)
Pour over cone vs French Press coffee
Pretty much ANYTHING (besides maybe Flavia packets or Folger's) will be better than a Keurig. How do you define better or worse? I love the kone. It's "better" than French press in that the coffee doesn't sit on the grounds, and the brew is less gritty.
The Vegan Experience Day 25: Can Vegans Still Enjoy Pizza?
(probably would top it after the pie cooked, baking the "mayo" would probably cause the emulsion to break.)
The Vegan Experience Day 25: Can Vegans Still Enjoy Pizza?
Instead of cheese, for creaminess, I'd try topping it with your eggplant "mayo" from a few days ago. And the flavors wouldn't even be incongruous.
Reality Check: The Big America Burgers at McDonald's Japan Are Back (and Bad As Ever)
@texas blues - actually, as much as I am loathe to give McDonald's credit for anything, the food they serve in France is much better than what they serve us here. It's still crap of course, but it does taste better.
What to serve with bone marrow?
Marrow is essentially just fat. It's not extremely flavorful, but it is rich. So, crusty bread for sure. And something acidic to cut the richness, therefore a parsley salad with a good vinaigrette is a good complement.
Or you could go the Marea route, and toss the warmed marrow nuggets into a tomato based pasta. Search this site for the Marea braised octopus pasta for a detailed play by play of how to make that amazing dish.
Torrisi Italian Specialties, NYC: 20-Course $125 Tasting Menu That Manages To Be Flat-Out Fun
This looks and sounds pretty nuts. The creativity and technique are both astounding, and I'll take your trusted word for it that it's all as successful in the mouth as it is in words and photography. I've never been tempted to go to Do or Dine because when I go out to eat I'm not interested in silly gimmicks and weirdness for it's own sake, but this does indeed sound like it's worth a shot.
The Vegan Experience Days 22 and 23: Charting My Cravings
Kenji - you could do the veggie grilling columns, I'm pretty sure Joshua Bousel can cover for you, he's doing an excellent job already :)
The Vegan Experience Days 22 and 23: Charting My Cravings
Since it's been such a success, you should up the ante and go for a full six months.
3 American Rye Whiskeys You Should Try
@Ghostly - thanks for the pointer.
Snapshots from Japan: Street Fair Food in Kyoto
Thanks for these pics. Makes me want to go back to Kyoto so bad. I had those exact octopus balls, bought from a vendor who was setup on the long canal that has all the cherry blossoms, on the Philosopher's Walk. Hell, I'm ready to move there permanently and never come back. The eel and yuba were also memorably delicious, not to mention the kaiseki dinner we had that was probably the best meal I've had in my entire life.
3 American Rye Whiskeys You Should Try
I like Tuhilltown's stuff better than the cheaper and more conventional stuff made by the bigger name distillers. I keep coming back to the Baby Bourbon, it's the best one they do imho. I do like their corn whiskey too. I also saw they are making an aged rum now too, which is very tempting. If it was easier to find, I'd drink a lot more Pappy Van Winkle than I do. A friend of mine scored a bottle and very generously offers me a glass whenever we're hanging out at his place.
Is anyone sous-viding at home?
You know I was thinking about this further last night, about the whole searing thing after you unbag the food. And your comment about the fat factor made me think about how what's really going on isn't "searing" but more like shallow frying. This is what makes for the well formed crust with so much great texture and browning flavor. I believe it's the same realisation Kenji came to when cooking burgers in their own rendered fat. And when he did his sous vide porchetta which he later fried to get it crispy and browned, the same principle was at work. No amount of blowtorching can produce those results.
leftover carnitas "stock"
Use for cooking rice, or lentils, the ramen idea is great, you could also serve tortellini in it, you could use it for a minestrone soup. Or simmer some root veggies in it (celery root/parsnip/potato/sunchoke/...) and blast the lot of it in a food processor or with a stick blender once they are tender, and you'll have a fantastic rich savory purée.
Is anyone sous-viding at home?
Ignore them and just go for it. It's just cooking, it's not calculus. If you're already cooking sous vide on your own, that clearly means you're a competent, enthusiastic and curious cook. Keller's recipes aren't difficult, but they can be a lot of work. You can easily see where shortcuts can be taken too, or how things can be adapted for simpler dishes. Often, you can take only two or three of his components and add them to your repertoire. People who complain about Keller's recipes who claim to be into cooking are like people who complain about exercising yet claim to be into maintaining their fitness. It just doesn't compute.
And yeah, I think the cool factor of the blowtorch is definitely a big part of the equation. My favorite use for it is toasting marshmallows.
Is anyone sous-viding at home?
Under Pressure is totally doable. I have also heard people whining and moaning about the French Laundry cookbook which I use all the time.
If Kenji says that pre-sear is unnecessary then Kenji would be wrong. Try it for yourself. Also, read Dave Arnold's blog: http://www.cookingissues.com/
His work on sous vide technique is fantastic. I hope he continues to flesh out his SV primer.
As far as why the torch doesn't produce the same depth of flavor as searing, I think you pretty much nailed it. That and the fact that you actually have less control over it, it has a tendency to burn rather than produce the desired reaction, and the heat is applied in a focused, localized spot as opposed to the entire surface that is in contact with the pan. I think the reason why the blowtorch is favored by professional chefs is for logistical reasons, and in some cases for the theatrics of a waiter torching a dish tableside.
Is anyone sous-viding at home?
There's tons of sous vide recipes on this site, use the search function:
Reading your technique, I think there are things you can improve on. First off, you should be searing, not torching. Torching creates close to nothing in terms of flavor or texture. When cooking larger and more substantial pieces of meat like short ribs for example, it is also better to pre-sear so that those Maillard flavors can permeate the whole cut. Then you'll want to sear again after unbagging.
Sous vide isn't only for cooking proteins. I've used sous vide to cook egg custards to perfect consistency, for making ice cream bases for example. Get yourself a copy of Thomas Keller's Under Pressure if you're yearning for some recipes beyond steak.
How to Make Sriracha from Scratch
Oh, and I want to make this with fresh espelette peppers. The next time I'm in France in late September, it's on.
How to Make Sriracha from Scratch
I am really loving this column. Thanks Joshua.
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Recent Posts
Can't see the comments in the most recent Food Lab post
Posted by simon, October 3, 2011 at 3:39 PM
Late night dinner options near the Art Students League?
Posted by simon, September 8, 2011 at 7:50 PM
My apology to Ed, and clarification on my comment.
Posted by simon, June 1, 2010 at 11:32 AM
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Recent Favorites
How to Make Homemade Chocolate Pudding Snack Packs
Posted by Liz Gutman, April 6, 2011 at 7:00 PM
breakthrough pizza crust for home ovens
Posted by shimpiphany, February 18, 2011 at 3:01 AM
Cook the Book: Homemade Sriracha
Posted by Caroline Russock, February 4, 2011 at 12:30 PM
French in a Flash: 'Printemps' Penne with Green Vegetables and Goat Cheese
Posted by Kerry Saretsky, June 10, 2010 at 5:15 PM
The Year That Was: What We Discovered, What We Loved
Posted by The Serious Eats Team, December 29, 2009 at 9:00 AM
First Look at the New Yankee Stadium Food
Posted by Erin Zimmer, April 15, 2009 at 6:35 PM
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Polls
simon answered "Crisp and curl" to Should pepperoni crisp and curl or lie flat?
Poll posted by Adam Kuban, February 7, 2011 at 9:00 AM
simon answered "Crumbs" to What's Your Favorite Cupcake Shop In New York?
Poll posted by The Serious Eats Team, December 17, 2010 at 12:00 PM
simon answered "Hill Country" to What's Your Favorite Barbecue In New York?
Poll posted by The Serious Eats Team, December 16, 2010 at 12:30 PM
simon answered "Sal and Carmine's" to What's Your Favorite Old-School Pizza In New York?
Poll posted by The Serious Eats Team, December 13, 2010 at 12:30 PM
simon answered "Bon Chon" to What's Your Favorite Fried Chicken In New York?
Poll posted by The Serious Eats Team, December 11, 2010 at 12:00 PM
simon answered "Yes! I love ice cream no matter the season. " to Do You Eat Ice Cream In The Cold?
Poll posted by The Serious Eats Team, December 7, 2010 at 11:15 AM
simon answered "Once in a blue moon" to How often do you eat frozen pizza?
Poll posted by Adam Kuban, December 6, 2010 at 9:55 AM
simon answered "Fresh Nutmeg " to What Kind of Nutmeg Do You Use?
Poll posted by Erin Zimmer, December 2, 2010 at 7:00 PM
simon answered "Combination of above" to Where'd You Do Most of Your Thanksgiving Grocery Shopping?
Poll posted by The Serious Eats Team, November 24, 2010 at 10:00 AM
simon answered "No. There are always dangers inherent in alcohol, and Four Loko is no different." to Should Four Loko Be Banned?
Poll posted by The Serious Eats Team, November 16, 2010 at 11:45 AM
simon answered "Location is no objection. I'll go anywhere." to How Far Would You Travel For Good Food?
Poll posted by The Serious Eats Team, November 9, 2010 at 11:45 AM
simon answered "At someone else's house" to Where Are You Eating Thanksgiving?
Poll posted by The Serious Eats Team, November 2, 2010 at 12:00 PM
simon answered "They're a good road map to fine dining, but don't get everything right. " to What Do You Think of the Michelin Stars?
Poll posted by The Serious Eats Team, October 26, 2010 at 11:30 AM
simon answered "No. I'm pie-curious!" to Are you a pizza purist?
Poll posted by Adam Kuban, October 25, 2010 at 9:55 AM
simon answered "A corner slice" to When it comes to square-cut pizza, I prefer ...
Poll posted by Adam Kuban, October 11, 2010 at 9:55 AM
simon answered "I buy from different sources now, like local farmers' markets" to Are You Eating Fewer Eggs
Poll posted by Erin Zimmer, August 25, 2010 at 7:00 AM
simon answered "Oh, boy, you are really reaching the bottom of the bucket for poll topics, aren't you? (That's OK, I'll suggest a better topic for next week in the comments below)" to Do you salt your slices?
Poll posted by Adam Kuban, August 23, 2010 at 10:25 AM
simon answered "Wouldn't matter to me—a low grade doesn't necessarily mean a dangerous kitchen. " to Would You Eat at a 'C' Restaurant?
Poll posted by The Serious Eats Team, August 10, 2010 at 11:15 AM
simon answered "Tell the server, then try to forget about it. " to How Would You Deal With Restaurant Error?
Poll posted by The Serious Eats Team, August 3, 2010 at 11:00 AM
simon answered "Yes. Bring it on" to Do Garlic and Mozzarella Belong Together on a Pizza?
Poll posted by Adam Kuban, August 2, 2010 at 9:55 AM
simon answered "80/20" to What Lean-To-Fat Ratio Do You Prefer When Making Burgers?
Poll posted by Robyn Lee, July 29, 2010 at 8:30 AM
simon answered "I never want to see or hear about a goddamn cupcake again." to Do You Care About Cupcakes?
Poll posted by The Serious Eats Team, July 27, 2010 at 11:30 AM
simon answered "15 or under; no lunch is worth that much time." to How Long Is Too Long for a Great Lunch?
Poll posted by The Serious Eats Team, July 20, 2010 at 11:15 AM
simon answered "No. Grease, for lack of a better word, is good" to Do you blot the grease from your pizza?
Poll posted by Adam Kuban, July 12, 2010 at 9:55 AM
simon answered "I buy seedless watermelon to avoid this." to How Do You Eat Your Watermelon?
Poll posted by Lingbo Li, July 7, 2010 at 9:00 AM
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Quizzes
simon got 80% correct on Quiz: How Much Do You Know About Tropical Fruits?
Quiz posted by Joan Fang, June 14, 2010 at 10:00 AM
simon got 50% correct on Quiz: How Much Do You Know About Ramen?
Quiz posted by Joan Fang, June 1, 2010 at 9:00 PM
simon got 87% correct on How Much Do You Know About Beer?
Quiz posted by Katie Quinn, May 10, 2010 at 6:45 PM
simon got 90% correct on How Much Do You Know About Hot Dogs?
Quiz posted by Katie Quinn, May 3, 2010 at 6:30 PM
simon got 62% correct on How Much Do You Know About Breakfast Foods?
Quiz posted by Katie Quinn, March 24, 2010 at 8:00 AM
simon got 50% correct on How Much Do You Know About Irish Food?
Quiz posted by Katie Quinn, March 17, 2010 at 6:15 PM
simon got 100% correct on How Much Do You Know About Cheese?
Quiz posted by Katie Quinn, March 10, 2010 at 11:15 AM
simon got 75% correct on How Much Do You Know About Food Preservation?
Quiz posted by Katie Quinn, March 1, 2010 at 4:30 PM
simon got 28% correct on How Much Do You Know About Chocolate Chip Cookies?
Quiz posted by Katie Quinn, February 22, 2010 at 6:00 PM
simon got 55% correct on How Much Do You Know About Condiments?
Quiz posted by Katie Quinn, February 15, 2010 at 6:30 PM
simon got 66% correct on How Much Do You Know About New Orleans Food Culture?
Quiz posted by Katie Quinn, February 1, 2010 at 7:00 PM

Kenji - that is one of the refutations I had read. I meant both: the studies themselves, but the especially the interpretations of such published by Dr. Campbell. As you yourself acknowledge, the studies used for his "analysis" were for the most part epidemiological studies, using self reported data, performed with no controls. The "conclusions" Campbell comes to are not conclusions at all: his goal was to build a case for veganism from the outset, and he then cherry picks from the questionable-to-begin-with data to build his argument, ignoring some evidence that would dispute his claims and flat out lying (mostly by omission) about other facts. His entire approach is biased, yet is presented as incontrovertible scientific evidence.
"Campbell’s sin is not bad science through incompetence, but sensationalism through omission and generalization."
This to me is worse than bad science through incompetence. It is bad science through deliberate misrepresentation. I'd rather not continue to paraphrase so I will post a couple links:
http://www.fourhourworkweek.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/Spotting-Bad-Science-103-The-China-Study.pdf
http://www.proteinpower.com/drmike/cancer/the-china-study-vs-the-china-study/
The raw data presented in the book are pretty much useless for drawing any the conclusions Campbell is proclaiming, they are only worthwhile for building hypotheses which then must be proven or disproven through randomized controlled trials. And there are plenty of those that disprove his conclusions that animal proteins and fats are unhealthy. In fact, quite the opposite. The evidence shows that saturated fats from animal sources do not cause heart disease. They actually reduce inflammation that leads to metabolic syndrome which is the underlying cause for among other things, diabetes and heart disease.
http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2007/12/071203091236.htm
The notion that dietary cholesterol has an impact on cholesterol levels in the body is also a myth, at least as far as the negative impact of such is concerned. In fact, consumption of cholesterol has beneficial effect, raising the amount of "good" cholesterol. High "bad" cholesterol is secreted by the liver, not the rsult of eating too much of it in your diet, and this over secretion is actually linked to too much carbohydrate intake. Hello bread and pasta eating vegans, and all other low fat, high carb dieters!
http://www.livestrong.com/article/83353-cholesterol-myths-busted/
Deliberate omission of facts, cherry picking data from observational studies, presenting correlation as causation, all are capital crimes against science and disqualify all claims made by those who engage in such.