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simon

  • Location: NYC: seyo [at] yahoo [dot] com

The Food Lab: The Easiest Way to Make April Bloomfield's Ricotta Gnudi at Home

Maybe corn meal (grits or polenta) and/or potato flakes (or a decent quality instant mashed potato) could work as a gluten free substitute...

The Food Lab: The Easiest Way to Make April Bloomfield's Ricotta Gnudi at Home

@mmph - thanks for sharing that link! The cream is added to the butter in order to boost the amount of milk solids. The end result is a broken butter with more browned milk solids than you would get with butter alone. You can also achieve this by using powdered milk, which you are essentially toasting in the butter.

Cooking With Olive Oil: Should You Fry and Sear in it or Not?

Taste-wise, I prefer cooking most things that are sautéed or pan seared in butter or ghee. I prefer olive oil raw in salads or drizzled on other raw things. I do like to roast veggies that have been coated in olive oil. But generallyI prefer it raw, and use butter or other animal fats (rendered duck, bacon/pork, chicken, and even the beef fat collected from braising) much better. For the flavor. I gave up on 99% of the nutritional woo, be it from the establishment or from the alternative nutrition/medicine spheres, some time ago now.

Fishing for Somen: How I Hosted a Japanese Backyard Noodle Party in My Studio Apartment

I wouldn't eat anyting off a pvc pipe, not sure galvanized sheet metal is much better...

How to Make Light and Tender Potato Gnocchi

gpincus - since gluten is not important, and can actually be detrimental, to the success of this recipe, using another form of flour will work well, especially since there are eggs which help bind the dough and will coagulate when cooked. Ideas In Food have a gluten free potato gnocchi recipe which works really well:

http://blog.ideasinfood.com/ideas_in_food/2013/01/janauary-3-2012.html

I've made it using potato flour instead of cornstarch, to great effect. And you don't need a pressure cooker. I've made them by steaming the potatoes instead, when I was cooking in someone else's kitchen. It makes for an even more delicate dough, but it does work.

Make Fresh Ricotta Gnocchi in Less Time Than it Takes to Cook Dried Pasta

Ann S., in the springtime, which is very soon, I make gnocchi with ramp tops :)

Here are some gluten free potato-ramp gnocchi from a couple springs ago:

https://instagram.com/p/ZwHVAHqdb9/?taken-by=simonpotter

Make Fresh Ricotta Gnocchi in Less Time Than it Takes to Cook Dried Pasta

QwertyJuan, I love all gnocchi, including the heavy and dense ones, so are not weird and you are not alone. Or maybe we are both weird and alone.

neferkatie - you can use potato flour, tapioca flour or cornstarch instead of wheat flour. It takes some tweaking but it works quite well. They will be even more delicate, so don't boil them, simmer them. In general it's better to simmer anyway, boiling is very violent and can cause them to break apart.

How to Make Roman Semolina Gnocchi (Gnocchi alla Romana)

I would murder that whole pan all on its own. But if need be, I'd serve them with a roast leg of lamb, or some duck breasts. And sautéed mushrooms. Broccoli rabe. A sauce made with dried figs or cherries and a touch of balsamic. Nothing earth shatteringly original, but just off the top of my head.

This Week at Serious Eats World Headquarters

Max, while I have no doubts that your traffic stats are where you want them to be, and I am happy for that, I wish you had found a happier medium. I think you've slashed away too much. Gone are the restaurant reviews. No more consistent pizza or burger coverage. Many of the posts are just relinking recipes that were posted years ago. As far as higher quality features, you've always had high quality features. Posts on re-organizing your spice rack though? Posts about silicone spoons? Come on. Every week there is a smattering of posts like this, that at best smack of making something out of nothing. In general it seems apparent that either the operating budget was severely slashed, or people were dumped so that those who remained could each get a bigger chunk.

This Week at Serious Eats World Headquarters

Kind of sad how SE has become at most a four day a week blog, with Friday limited to rehashing the previous four days, and nothing of note being posted on the weekend.

The Le Creuset Bi-Material Spoon Is the First Plastic Spoon Worth Owning

"I have a special drawer that I keep for plastic or nylon cooking utensils. It's called the garbage bin."

Yes, this. There is nothing more insulting and degrading as a cook than being reduced to using plastic utensils. I'd rather just use a regular knife, spoon, fork or my fingers. When I am cooking in someone else's kitchen and I find that all they have are plastic spatulas and spoons etc. it makes me furious.

How to Make Uovo in Raviolo: Showstopping Runny Egg Yolk Ravioli

It would have to be an ostrich egg lasagna...

How to Make Uovo in Raviolo: Showstopping Runny Egg Yolk Ravioli

hah! that would be hilarious.

How to Make Uovo in Raviolo: Showstopping Runny Egg Yolk Ravioli

I made these for Thanksgiving a few years ago, but I didn't want huge ravioli since they were just one of many courses, so I made them with quail egg yolks.

Re-Introducing Soubise: The Classic Three Ingredient Onion Sauce That Deserves a Comeback

I make a curried cauliflower "soubise" pretty regulary come to think of it, never thought of it that way though. Basically the same technique: gently soften but not brown cauliflower florets and a few whole cloves of garlic for sweetness in butter and salt, then simmer in half and half, purée till super silky and smooth, whisk in curry and cold butter, serve with roast chicken or pork.

Re-Introducing Soubise: The Classic Three Ingredient Onion Sauce That Deserves a Comeback

David Chang has been serving soubise alongside his egg and caviar dish for years now, it's one of his signature dishes, and it is indeed delicious.

The Ultimate Vegan Party Food: Fully Loaded Queso Dip

Another challenge, Kenji!

How to Make Vegan Chorizo That Even a Carnivore Will Relish

This is great, I bet this combination of techniques and texture would work really well with other flavor profiles too. This could be a great way towards making a kick ass vegan bolognese.

The Art of Tarte Flambée: Alsatian Pizza With Fromage Blanc, Bacon, and Onions

Tarte flambée is manna of the gods. I think I like it better than pizza, if it is indeed pizza, and why not, it is the best pizza.

The Ultimate Vegan Party Food: Fully Loaded Queso Dip

I put sour cream on this kind food, regardless of whether it's been seen there or not, these flavor beg for it.

The Ultimate Vegan Party Food: Fully Loaded Queso Dip

No vegan sour cream?

Too Good To Mix: 9 Rums Perfect For Sipping

LOVE the Santa Teresa, reminds me I need a new bottle.

The Art of the Perfect Grilled Cheese (Plus 20 Variations to Shake Things Up)

+1 for pre-buttering the bread. In addition to the stated benefits, it also prevents it from over-browning. Browned butter is delicious, burned butter is not.

Why My Fridge Is Never Without Shirataki Noodles (and Yours Shouldn't be Either)

Curious to know how they might work in Western recipes, such as in chicken noodle soups where the noodles added too early invariably get bloated and lame, or in italian sauced pasta recipes...

Should You Really Only Cook With Wine You'd Drink? The Truth About Cooking With Wine

It of course varies from application to application. A marinade you will throw away (plonk), or a sauce you are deglazing just before serving (decent house wine), in a ceviche (some good you would like to drink)... But in general, I always took it as, not wine you would necessarily want to to drink, but the cheapest possible wine that was still acceptable.

Where to find Brazilian Linguica in NYC?

Anyone know of a good Brazilian butcher who either makes their own or sells a high quality linguica? Planning on making a fejoada as the weather continues to cool down, and the sausage is a must. With all the Brazilians in the city, I refuse to believe there is no linguica to be found...

Thanks!

Late night desserts and drinks in WBurg?

I'd like to know if there's anywhere in Williamsburg (preferably northside) that serves dessert late night, so after ~11pm, on a weeknight. Somewhere with sit down table service, and that also serves alcohol. Doesn't have to be fancy, although fancy is nice too. A slice of pie would be fine. French style desserts like crème brulée are always good. Ice cream would be welcome. Or cake. So long as it's in a restaurant or bar like environment. Does such a place exist? Or does everything shut down early? Forgive me ignorance, I don't hang out much in Williamsburg. All suggestion are greatly appreciated!

Fresh Morels in NYC?

Has anyone seen them yet? They are popping up on menus, but I haven't found any in the stores yet. Fairway used to always have them, but last time I checked, no dice. I haven't been to Manhattan Fruit exchange yet to look. If anyone has seen them, let me know! Morels are my hands down favorite spring food, I think I like them more than ramps, definitely far and away better than peas and asparagus. PLEASE HELP ME! ;)

Finally! Serious coffee and pastry in Hell's Kitchen!

Like a prayer answered or a dream come true, the northern end of Hell's Kitchen finally has a top flight coffee shop. Rex Coffee Shop just opened on 10th Avenue right off the corner of 57th street, and since I work a block away, I couldn't be happier to ditch the office Flavia machine for ever.

But not only do they serve espresso, pour over and drip from Counter Culture beans, also a legit pastry operation. I had a pain au chocolat this morning that was as good as any I've had on this side of the Atlantic, and better than many I've had in France. Very impressive. I haven't tried the other stuff yet, looked like mostly variations on muffins which aren't really my speed. Buut the cookies look good. I think they also have sandwiches, which I haven't investigated either. But that pain au chocolat, wow, very strong showing. Buttery, flaky, puffy, light, burnished, the chocolate is rich, dark and sweet, high quality stuff. Could prove to be a real problem for me actually.

Prices are in line with the rest of the city: $2.50 for a double shot, $3.50 for my pastry, $2.25 for a 12oz drip coffee if I remember correctly.

If you live or work in the area, and you enjoy good coffee (you know what that means if you do) then this is the spot you've been yearning for. I know I sound crazy enthusiastic but I can assure you that I am in no way affiliated with this business. Check my posting history if you think I'm a shill. This place is legit.

Kitchen items from GCT Oyster Bar?

I love the Grand Central Terminal Oyster Bar, for their oysters obviously, also the smoked trout with whipped horseradish cream and the pan roasts are rich and hearty and satisfying. I've always been underwhelmed by the main courses from the kitchen though. I haven't been in a while, and was wondering if, hoping really, that the kitchen was putting out better food nowadays.

Has anyone been going recently? Has it improved? Are there any dishes in particular that are notably good? I'm thinking of going next week, but want to eat more than just oysters and smoked trout if I do.

Last time I was there, I had a bunch of oysters, payed my bill and went upstairs to Michael Jordan's and had a steak. A little drastic, I know, but sometimes you just gotta do what you gotta do.

Thoughts?

57th St and 10th avenue lunch options?

So, I'm starting a gig on the Far West Side of midtown. While I'm excited about the job, I'm a bit skeptical about what the area has to offer for lunch options. I'm sure my new colleagues will have plenty of wisdom to share, but I wanted to ask the Serious Eats community. So, in the midst of mega car dealerships and post industrial Manhattan, are there any gems? I'll be there for at least a month, and I'm willing to walk a ways for something worthwhile. Let me know!

Chicken Kiev in NYC?

I've never had it. It is now time. Past time, really. Please let me know your favorite spots for this delicacy, whether high end, down and dirty, old school, contemporary, in some far flung neighborhood, or centrally located. Just as long as it's really delicious. Bonus points for restaurants that in addition to their chicken Kiev also serve fantastic pelmeni.

Spasibo!

Retinning copper pans?

I was given a beautiful old French copper sauteuse in dire need of some TLC. I've cleaned the outside up pretty well but the inside is a dull grey that appears to be scratched and thinned down to the copper in some areas from decades of use. Does anyone know of someone in the city, or greater Tri State area, who can retin the inside of my pan and give it new life? Please let me know.

Thank you and happy 2012 SE and SE'ers!

Late night dinner options near the Art Students League?

Classes end at around ten pm, so looking for somewhere with an open kitchen till at least 11. Preferably west and north of 57th and 7th. as I'll be heading home to the UWS afterwards. Hopefully casual as I'll be wearing clothes to paint in. Price isn't too much of an issue, but on the cheaper side would be nice. Not a big fan of Brooklyn Diner, it's overpriced and a bit too pretentious for what it really is. Thinking Landmarc might be my best bet, but even that might be too fancy for my attire. Thanks for your help, it will be greatly appreciated!

This time, coffee near Times Sq.

Hello fellow SENYers, I'm back asking for your recs for good coffee. This time I'm working for a two week gig right in Times Square (44th and bway to be exact.) My hopes and expectations are not very high. I assume I'll probably have to go West. Anywhere with a ~10 block radius would be ideal. Any hidden gems for food would also be greatly appreciated, but really, excellent espresso would be like throwing me a life preserver.

Thanks!

good coffee near 17th and 5th?

Just started a new gig with a new client on 17th and 5th this week. There are SO many coffee shops, restaurants, delis, and franchises around here. I've got food covered. Anyone know where to get a really good cup of coffee? I drink singles/doubles of espresso straight up, I also am fond of a well poured drip coffee. Also partial to places that either roast their own or get high quality beans from reputable roasters. Not a fan of Illy or Lavazza espresso if I can help it... So, calling all coffee snobs. Where do I get my fix in these parts?

FRESH Stevia leaves?

Anyone know where to get them? I'd like to get some, either from a brick and mortar here in NYC or from an online store, doesn't matter. There are plenty of sources for dried leaves, but I want them fresh. I *could* grow a Stevia plant at home... But that's a last resort. If anyone has any sources, please let me know!

Slow cooker roundup?

Hey guys, has Serious Eats ever done an equipment roundup comparing various makes and models of electric "slow cookers?"

Typically I do my slow cooking in a Le Creuset either on the stovetop or in the oven, but recently I've found myself wanting a slow cooker so that I wouldn't have to worry about leaving the oven or stove on. Or, if I am using my LC for something else, but want to also be braising something at the same time. I could just get another LC but that doesn't solve the issue of sometimes needing to leave it unattended.

I searched the site briefly but didn't see a slow cooker review article. Is there any chance you guys can do one? I trust you more than any other source...

In the meantime, what is the preferred make and model of the SE readers? Key features to look out for? Design flaws to avoid?

Thanks!

Thanksgiving recipe roundup pages?

Where are the 2010 Thanksgiving recipe compilation pages? I can't seem to find them anymore, they're not in the Serious Entertaining section, nor are they in Recipes. There doesn't seem to be a Holidays column either. There was a link to a mincemeat pie recipe, under the Pies section (or maybe it was Desserts?) that I'd like to find again. Searching for it doesn't turn it up either... Can someone post a link to it in this thread?

Thanks guys!

Congratulations Max F.!

Your latest spice hunting post got some well deserved praise on the hallowed pages of bOINGbOING!

http://m.boingboing.net/2010/12/10/more-sumac-please.html

My sentiments expressed here exactly. I hope you can take a moment to celebrate and reflect.

Sichuan hot pot season!

Ok, well, it is warming up just a bit this week, but that is only delaying the inevitable. Soon it will be cold, dark, windy, damp, icy even. With craggy mounds of grey, sometimes yellow, rancid snow piled up on corners and against walls. Pools of nearly black slush welling up in gutters and crosswalk cut outs. I've read so many things about Sichuan hot pots, the kettles of broth bubbling with chiles and sichuan peppercorns, into which are dipped slices of lamb, pork, shrimp, fish balls, noodles, veggies..... It sounds like the ultimate anti-winter food.

What are your favorite spots? Anywhere in the city is fair game. Be it some far flung area of Queens or Brooklyn, or in Manhattan, it doesn't matter. I want to know what you think is the best way to beat the cold, Sichuan style.

Thanks!

Shake Shack changing its method?

I had a couple Double Shack Burgers for lunch today (yes, two doubles, I know) and, beside being totally disgusted with myself, I noticed a couple things.

First, the patties were much thicker than I remembered them. I ordered two because I was expecting the really thin smashed patties. These were about 1.5, close to 2 cm thick and still had right angles on them, and no ragged edges. The inside was definitely on the rare side of medium.

Second, there was much less crunchy outer crust. The most noticeable textural element was, unfortunately, a lot of little gristly bits in the patties, which were chewier than the rest of the meat, which otherwise had a very nice, musky beef flavor.

I was shocked by how big the patties were, and how less cooked they were compared to my previous burgers there. Has anyone else noticed this? These burgers were completely different from what I was expecting, and from what I remember experiencing there before.

For the record, there was no line at all, so it's not like they were rushed. Would love to hear your thoughts. Five Guys is doing a much, much better job at smashing their burgers, if this is indeed the way Shake Shack is doing things these days.

Hide Chan Ramen - a bit of a letdown

So, after reading Kenji's glowing review of Hide Chan, I had it in my mind to check this place out. A few weeks went by, until tonight, when the opportunity presented itself to go with some eating buddies.

We were all pumped up at the prospect of having the pork toro, and the ramen with extra fatty broth. To our dismay, these things have been 86ed from the menu. Instead of the the pork toro, there is now char siu ($4.50) The buns are still on the menu but are now filled with the afore mentioned char siu. Only one meager slice per bun. Which were stale, dry and mealy. And they no longer offer the options of broths. The ramen was good but not as good as Ippudo or Minca, smaller and not as generously adorned. We were nonplussed.

It's not like anything was bad, aside from the buns. Perfectly acceptable. Service was courteous and quick. But our expectations were not met and we agreed that with all the other options in town, we probably wouldn't be back. If I was already in the neighborhood, I guess I could maybe be convinced to go back for the onsen tamago, a preparation I fell in love with when I went to Japan last spring. But otherwise, not really worth the detour. Unless by some miracle they put these things back on the menu......

Eataly - First Impression

- the space is big and pretty, but awkwardly laid out and cramped.

- absolutely packed with top notch merchandise. I didn't really examine the prices but first impressions are that produce and meats and breads and pastas made on premises are fairly priced, imported stuff seemed expensive. Buon Italia shouldn't feel threatened.

I spent the most time at the butcher stand, which is very well stocked, and has very good prices. I got a Piedmontese sirloin steak which was $11 and change / pound. They had whole rabbits, which can be hard to find in NYC, as well and skin on pork belly. They are not making their own sausages yet, but when the beer garden opens they will.

- The restaurants are peppered throughout the space. There's a veggie, seafood, pizza and pasta counter with table service, as well as counters for sandwiches, gelato and coffee. I didn't see the white tablecloth restaurant.

- I sat down and had a bowl of fusili pasta with tomato pork ragu and a menabrea beer. The pasta was good but nothing revelatory. Just good, bordering on meh. Portion was small, and cost $17. Overpriced. Beer was $6.80 for a 33cl. Weird pricing, as all the beers were $X.80

- a couple sitting next to me was pretty upset with their portion and even called over a manager to complain. I don't think they were rewarded for their efforts.

The manager had a lame excuse, saying "I'm from Italy, these are the portion sizes in Italy" but this is bullshit. The portions are primi sized. The pasta restaurant serves nothing but pasta and salad. Therefore the plates should be portioned as main courses which they are not.

I will be going back, I'm curious to see how the other restaurants fare for price/serving size. The pizza looked great and priced along the same lines as other Neapolitan pizza restaurants like Kesté.

I'd say after this first run that the hot pastas are a rip off. Avoid them. Pizzas look good, buy those. Produce and meats also. Imported products are hit or miss.

Paris recommendations?

Going to Paris in about three weeks from now, would love your recommendations. Looking for your favorites from street food all the way up to fine dining. I am on a bit of a budget this year but am open to the idea of maybe hitting up one nice dinner. Last year I went to Pierre Gagnaire, and while it was phenomenal I am not in a position to spend one month's rent on dinner this time around :) So, looking to supplement my existing recon with yours. Let me know what you think is a can't miss!

Pistachio-Honey Butter

[Photographs: Lucy Baker] This pistachio butter is rich and nutty. The honey adds a mild, floral sweetness. Try it on toast, or sandwich it between two sugar cookies or gingersnaps. It will keep for up to two months in the... More

How to Cope with CSA Stress

Photograph from justinhenry on Flickr Has your CSA membership compromised your ridiculously wild social life? Do you find yourself staying indoors to make use of the okra piling up? Cathy Erway of Not Eating Out in New York can relate, but she's come up with some tips: Beets last a really long time. Kohlrabi is not going to turn in a week, either. If you find that you simply have too much stuff to eat in a week (as I do often), go for the most delicate leafy greens first. Save the big heads of cabbage, potatoes, green beans and carrots for another week, and don’t worry about them. She recommends eating the produce raw (pots and pans can... More