Profile

ScottWiener

I love pizza. I run a New York pizza tour company that takes folks to significant pizzerias for historical/cultural/technological/taste analysis.

  • Website
  • Location: Brooklyn, NY
  • Favorite foods: sandwiches, dumplings, chocolate, corned beef, sloppy joes (NJ style), pizza, cake, cookies, ice cream
  • Last bite on earth: 7-layer chocolate mousse cake

Is Artichoke The Shake Shack of New York Pizza?

I've had more bad experiences than good ones at Artichoke lately, but only at the MacDougal and 17th Street locations. Haven't been to 14th street in over a year. Tastes better after the sun goes down, that's for sure.

Undercover Pizza Lover Part I: Working the Line at a Family Pizzeria in Las Vegas

@guy Absolutely agree. I was hoping this would point out the reality of pizzerias as opposed to our comfortable home environments where budgets don't exist and time isn't important. We were topping quickly, but I was often scolded for being too skimpy with sausage or not spreading the cheese evenly so there was a definite standard for quality. The pizza tasted great!

I start my next assignment tonight at a slice shop in Manhattan...

Undercover Pizza Lover Part I: Working the Line at a Family Pizzeria in Las Vegas

@dmc Update on dough info via email from John Arena....
"Regarding fermentation 24 hours is minimum and is based on space limitations and previous days use. I much prefer 36 to 48 hours if possible."

@dhorst Good call on balling vs rounding... even though I'm sure people get the idea of what I'm talking about I do agree about not abusing dough. Since words do have power I changed them all to rounding for when this posts to my blog tomorrow. No more balling anything!
blog.scottspizzatours.com

Undercover Pizza Lover Part I: Working the Line at a Family Pizzeria in Las Vegas

@dmc They were making dough pretty consistently throughout the day and I hung out by the mixer quite a bit but wasn't directly involved in putting anything into it. They're doing a 24 hr cold ferment after mixing, scaling and balling.

@cani I only worked a few days so I had to divulge my mission for obvious reasons. The owner of Metro is a friend of mine and let me do jobs I would otherwise not have been able to do on my first, second, third days at work. I was more under-cover as a non-pro for the staff and customers. The next job is more under-cover for the managers so the title won't bug you as much.

@jim Haven't read Modernist Cuisine (if that's what you meant) but I used cm because it was the correct measurement. I don't think of Slice as a general purpose blog, but I do think metric is a more general purpose system since more people on the planet use it.

Speedy Romeo: Saint Louie, Louie, Oh Baby

Totally agree about the St Louie... definitely my favorite pie at Speedy's. This place is a block from my apartment and I waited patiently for it to open, hoping desperately that it would be decent. It's beyond decent and I'm so nervous that I'll be spending too much time there. As far as I know they are the only Provel users in NYC and it's just for that one pie. Super super super good.

Scott's Pizza Chronicles: Why I Love the International Pizza Expo

@gabagool Classico whole peeled pear tomatoes are packed by Escalon! I think they're available at Walmart. Email me your mailing address and I'll send you some coupons for free cans.

I wrote a much longer response to all of the above but it looks like it may have gotten lost in the web. Long story short, there's always more to learn!

Scott's Pizza Chronicles: Why I Love the International Pizza Expo

I completely understand the skepticism about trade shows but you don't have to look far below the surface to see how much information is contained in one convention center. Of course the purpose of the show is to sell products but I don't own a restaurant, don't buy 50 lb bag of flour, don't want a cheese shredder, have never made dough in a mixer, don't buy cheese in bulk and don't plan on doing so any time soon yet these folks are still more than happy to answer all my questions. And believe me, I bombard them. The folks at Escalon answered some questions about acidity levels in canned tomato products. General Mills explained why they source, mill and sell different products based on regions throughout the US (explains a lot about regional crust differences). I learn more about oven construction, tomato packing, flour milling and all the rest from the short trade show than I would by doing anything short of visiting the plants, farms and factories (and I have done that as well).

There's a lot of goofiness at the show, like pizza box folding, dough acrobatics, largest stretch competitions, inflatable pizza suits, etc but those are just for camaraderie. That's what I thought I would see when I went to my first pizza trade show but I only go back because I have yet to experience a show in which I didn't learn something new.

Just ask the guys from Pizza Brain, the pizza museum/pizzeria coming to Philly in a few months. They went to expo this year and almost exploded with joy. Next year I propose a Slice excursion, maybe we can even do a seminar from the "pizza fan/blogger" perspective.

@scotdc I do apologize for spending more than a couple words about Las Vegas itself, but I only meant to use it to demonstrate that I wouldn't go to the show just for an excuse to be in Vegas. Lots of people probably go for a tax deductible vacation but I'm there for the show. That being said, I did have some of the best Thai and Japanese food on this trip as well as some ridiculous breakfasts at Hash House A Go Go.

@gabagool That photo above is from a couple years back but I do believe they still make whole tomatoes. Most of their line is crushed (you can get it at Costco now) but Stanislaus is right across the road and their Alta Cucina whole tomatoes are great. As for their booth, it's great for two reasons.... 1. They do serve great food and 2. The sales people DO NOT try to sell you things. Their job is to hang out with you. Their customer care level is staggering.

@John Woz You're too smart to think you've learned enough. As for the Japanese pizza, it's Japan's interpretation of pizza as a genre in the same way tomato sauce and low moisture mozzarella is the American version. Use the foods you know locally and you'll eat well, right?

@Meredith Still on the Japanese pie, the ingredients are as follows....
1. rice flour in the dough
2. soy and japanese mayo in the sauce
3. slices mochi, Gouda and mozz blend, corn, teriyaki, dried seaweed, dried fermented and smoked skipjack tuna flakes

Even though it didn't win, I thought it was the strongest "non-traditional" pizza.

Scott's Pizza Chronicles: Searching for New York's Hidden Coal Ovens

I might do another piece down the line about recovered ovens like Verde's (I have some photos from before he opened). I'm sure there are more hidden ovens, the hunt continues!

Char coal in a BBQ pit is dried wood whereas rock coal like anthracite is much much older and a limited resource. When we talk about pizza ovens, it's always anthracite because it burns hotter and longer than soft coal. It also required a bottom draft, which is how you can tell if an oven was built for coal or not.... bottom draft is for coal. When wood burns in an oven, it burns directly on the hearth, usually banked slightly off axis in in the oven's rear. Only oven I know that's burning coal AND wood is Luzzo's. Coal for lasting heat and wood for an active flame since they are making quasi-Neapolitan pizza.

@adam I agree it's sad to see an old coal burner go, but I actually prefer their gas oven pies. I do miss those coal oven chocolate chip cookies though!

Join us: Ditmas Park Brooklyn Grandma/Square Pizza Crawl 2/18, Midday

Dang I really wish I could go. Please eat a slice for your missing comrades.

Video: Don Antonio by Starita

Really nicely shot and I love that we got to hear Antonio Starita speak a bit! That place is absolutely gorgeous and the food is top notch. I'm going again later this week and can't wait!

The Great Tupper Lake Pizza Party of 2012

Wow, looks like superfun! We need to do a huge Slice commenter party at Cary and Lillian's pizzerias when it opens.

Pizza Trends of 2011

Yo Kenji, I just tried it a couple weeks back and it ROCKED! Posting the results early next week.

Trenton, New Jersey's De Lorenzo's to Close Hudson Street Location

Their son Sam has a Delorenzo's down the road in Robbinsville and the pizza is identical!

Pizza Cotta Bene: A New(ish) Old School Brooklyn Sliceria

Great to see this place get some cred! They also have a pretty serious artichoke slice that's way more manageable than Artichoke's artichoke slice... does that make any sense? Totally a go-to slice joint.

Scott's Pizza Chronicles: Roman Invasion

By the way, Rome's oldest pizzeria is Pizzeria da Ricci (aka Est! Est! Est!) and it serves what I hear to be extremely mediocre Neapolitanish pies. It opened in 1905, same year Lombardi's became a pizzeria in NYC. Still trying to track down the oldest pizza al taglio spot in Rome so shoot me a line if you find it!

Blogwatch: NYC Pie Chart

Great graph! It's really interesting to see the shift by borough. I know this says it's an unofficial number, but I'm wondering how PizzaCentric did his counting. Read through every listing and mark down if it's a pizzeria? What about restaurants that serve pizza? Any more details, Michael?

Ed's Cosmic Pizza Blab: Cheese

@johnwoz: I'm totally with you on the "Better to under salt than over salt" opinion. But Ed's hitting at a good point that some pizzerias probably aren't tasting and questioning their products enough.

On the Difara matter, the square pie is made with mozzarella di bufala but the round is not. Round pie gets Grande fresh mozzarella aka fior di latte (Rotondino is a registered product name Grande owns) as well as Grande low moisture mozzarella and then the grana padano. He has certainly not stuck to any one particular lineup of ingredients but that's the basic current setup. I doubt he would not be able to get grana padano because the lovely folks at Coluccio & Sons always have it in stock and they take care of most of his supplies.

Cranford, New Jersey: Emma's Brick Oven Pizza & Cafe

@erin: Is it really a coal oven? Last time I looked inside I saw gas. But the postcards they give out say "coal" even though there's a picture of a wood fire on there. What's the deal?

Cranford, New Jersey: Emma's Brick Oven Pizza & Cafe

Great to see Cranny getting some action! I grew up there and ate at Emma's a couple nights before they officially opened. It was my birthday and I begged for them to let me and some friends/family in for a test meal. It was so cool of them! Good stuff there, in Cranford, and the rest of Union County.

Tomato Class at the Brooklyn Brainery

@justinH: I was also not blown away, but I'm sure someone with more skill than I can make them do a tasty dance on my palate.

Scott's Pizza Chronicles: San Marzano Fact vs Fiction

@lemon: YES! You just hit the nail on the head. This post was about facts, not subjective flavor. We buy more with our eyes than our taste buds and that needs to change. Not sure if you've seen our canned tomato taste tests on Slice, but we've tried about 35 different labels!

Tomato Class at the Brooklyn Brainery

@jjdec I have a can of Bianco/Dinapoli and they will be in the next taste test. We left them out this time because I only wanted 8 samples with a spread of common labels through NJ, CA, Italy and DOP.

@dmc They were the NJ Sclafani, more widely available than the CT brand. As for the Simpson SM's, I have never been a fan of them but the crushed are OK. I always find them too tinny tasting. Oh well, people who tasted them the other night disagreed for the most part.

@pizzablogger Absolutely true. The tomato class wasn't pizza-centric, we were merely talking about different production methods and regions without any major pizza angle. Of course the info is valuable for pizza, otherwise we wouldn't be posting it on slice, but none of these taste tests say anything about which tomatoes taste better on pizza. For that test, we'll have to take just a small handful of samples and do identical prep and bake for all of them. At that point we can argue about which prep and bake methods are necessary.

Tomato Class at the Brooklyn Brainery

@dmc Ha, not sure if I have a hat but definitely a shirt. I just get my Stans at Restaurant Depot but you can get them on Arthur Ave in th Bronx if you're in the area. The (almost) same exact tomatoes are available in the form of Trader Joe's canned plum tomatoes (they sell both WITH and WITHOUT salt). I've also had trouble finding more Canadian LV's but the Italian ones are around. I was shocked at last night's high regard for Simpson "San Marzanos" but they really did perform well. For pizza, I definitely prefer crushed so I'm really excited for your experiment. Those crushed tomatoes have already been cooked once, so I bet they will be way sweeter if you're cooking both sauces for the same period. Looking forward to the results!

Tomato Class at the Brooklyn Brainery

Maybe Kenji will tell us where those tomatoes came from... I'll bet they're from a can (bright sheen, basil leaf)

Here's a brief rundown of the tasting. Didn't do it very scientific this time but kept all the samples same as they were in the cans, just served them in identical bowls. Everyone sampled in a different, random, order.

Top two favorites were Stanislaus Alta Cucina and those Simpson Brand "San Marzanos," both grown in California.

Next two were Sclafani and a farmers' market San Marzano, both grown in New Jersey.

Then came a couple Italian tomatoes, first Paulie Gee's secret tomatoes followed by Cento "certified" San Marzano (not DOP, just says "certified" but not by whom).

Last positions were a DOP San Marzano and Miracel of San Gennaro ($10 per can).

Very interesting results, definitely in line with past taste tests. California clearly beats DOP.

NOTE: These were tests of raw tomatoes pulled out of the can, not rinsed. I wanted people to taste the can, packing material, etc because it's all part of the product. Cooking these things would change them and that's a whole other test. We didn't touch any crushed tomatoes, these were all WHOLE PEELED TOMATOES. All tasters were American tomato fans, so European taste buds may have preferred the Italian tomatoes. My backyard tomatoes aren't ripe yet so we didn't taste any. This weather is really killing them.

Discovering Tomato Pies at DeLorenzo's Pizza in Trenton, New Jersey

Kenji, you'll love Hudson St location next time you pass through.

Just a quick fix, Papa's Tomato Pies is not in its original location. It has been in three different spots prior to the current location, which it moved to around 1945. Great pizza there, definitely a must-visit.

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