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Zuni Cafe's $8 Nectarine Dessert Is Just a Nectarine; Diners Left Confused
Nor is it original. Alice Waters invented this Dadaesque approach to desserts many years ago. I sat and watched the jaws of a young man and the girl he had intended to impress drop as the waiter (Probably Pigrim at that date) placed the $8 peach plus knife in front of them. "But," stammered the young man, "I thought it was a *dessert*. It's just a peach!." The waiter looked the length of his nose at the kid, pulled himself up to full height and hissed, "It's the *perfect* peach."
There are a number of birthday suit clad emperors prancing around in a Alice Land, where Gordon Pilgrim and Judy Rogers got earned their stripes. It's not surprising that they picked up a few tricks there. In fact, knowing what the cadre is willing to pay for "perfect", $8 may reflect the standard product markup.
Some of us have learned, however, that perfect is second to best tasting most times. Those of you who visit farmers' markets may have noticed that the better fruit you bring home is never quite as good as the sample..and if you look closely at the sample, it's usually one with a brown spot or two.
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The trick is to mix sungolds with more acidic varieties, or use early girls. Throw in a little feta, some balsamic..forget dinner. Or that is dinner.
You have just identified the reason so many chefs want to work in San Francisco. You can do so much more when you have so much more and so better to begin with.
Tomatoes, by the way, are fruit, not vegetables. Sungolds, early girls and sweet 100's just show it.