Latest Comments

One-Skillet Korean Nachos Will Shake Up Your Party Menu

Any ideas on how to best render this dairy-kosher/pescatarian?

The Food Lab: Follow the Rules for the Best All-American Beef Stew

On the subject of gumbo mentioned above, how do okra and file powder work as thickeners? I have both stashed away in my freezer.

For umami bombs, is it true that I should only add miso paste as the very end of cooking?

Lastly, am I the only one who always preferred to mash his carrots into his soups and stews? It produced a consistent flavour and thickened the sauce in a unique way you otherwise only see in Indian sauces.

Eggs en Cocotte: An Easy (But Often Forgotten) Egg Breakfast

I think it's failed to catch on because because it's insane to preheat an oven for four eggs even when you don't have to rush out the door for work.

Basically, eggs en cocotte (especially the one with duxelle) is a restaurant dish: time, resource, and labor intensive to make for a single serving but incredibly easy to make in large batches. The same could be said of most recipes that require you to switch food from one cooking medium to another (pan roasting in a restaurant kitchen is convenient because the oven is never off, but wasteful for the home cook because it means burning gas in an empty oven while the stovetop is running) or lots of components that need to be cooked separately and fresh but can be done in batches (you can just have a giant pot of each ingredient with its own cook that can be ladled from to assemble each order as it comes in a restaurant and actually have it be easier than multiple pots of the same dish, but doing that at home means using and working on every pot and pan for a tablespoon of each component). This is why you never see dishes that take a lot of individual construction and attention on restaurant menus.

The Food Lab: Building a Better Egg McMuffin

My guess on the cheese order is that heat doesn't rise, hot air does. Meanwhile, hot liquids drip/flow down, so one would think that the drippings from the meat would melt the cheese.

Stew Science: What's the Best Way to Brown Beef?

I've always gone with cutting out and browning the larger bits of marbling (and chunks of white). They don't act like normal meat, so there's not much loss in cooking them until they shrivel up, and they render out plenty of fat in which to caramelize the vegetables.

22 Supermarket Items You Should Leave on the Shelf (and What to Get Instead)

I've always been fond of store-bought gnocci. The toughness in the center gives them a nice presence/chew that the gruel-like restaurant ones lack.

Meanwhile, stew beef just seems efficient. Cooking the scraps ensures that they get used.

The Comfort Food Diaries: A Trick of the Tongue

Huh, my childhood experience with tongue was as that meat that was always available at the deli but never as flavorful-sounding as pastrami or corned beef and thus never on my plate.

Eggy Puds: The Breakfast Dish You Didn't Know You Need

Considering the depth of that pudding bowl, you could probably pour a serving of shakshoukha in there.

I Don't Know From Goose: A Jewish Christmas Story

@menkey Kosher birds are brined as a part of slaughter, so salt needs tinkering.

I Don't Know From Goose: A Jewish Christmas Story

Is there any particular reason you call for dunking the goose in boiling water rather than using kenji's pour-over method? Similarly, what would be the advantages and disadvantages of pulling the skin away from the underlying meat (as in most Asian duck recipes) versus slashing the skin (as in your recipe and most European duck recipes)? Lastly, how should I modify the recipe if I were to somehow manage to find a kosher bird?

Why You Don't Need an Expensive Roasting Pan

So where the hell am I supposed to make brisket?

Bake Better Bread With the Fourneau Oven

How does it compare to the cast iron combo of interlocking cast iron pan and saucepan? Lodge sells a three quart set for just sixty bucks.

Ounces and Grams: Why Mass Is Not the Best Way to List Ingredients

Might want to double-check the distinction between precision and accuracy, and maybe even add a paragraph about it to the article.

I actually find American units easier to do math on. I can easily make halves, quarters, eighths, and often sixteenths without decimals. With some measurements, like length, I can even do thirds (twelve is divisible by four and three).

Stuffing on the Side: How to Make Southern Cornbread Dressing

Given your stated tastes, you might want to try using thirded bread or rye 'n injun. The former uses roughly equal parts corn, rye, and (usually whole) wheat while the latter skips the wheat.

The Secret to Bona Fide Southern Cornbread Is in the Cornmeal

Of course, the presence of molasses and flour (as well as scalded milk, a mild sweetener) in the earliest version of cornbread on record, as well as the Native American preference for berries in nasump, does a pretty good job of wrecking the thesis of this article and Mr. Moss', doesn't it?

The Secret to Bona Fide Southern Cornbread Is in the Cornmeal

It's always odd how people refer to southern cornbread as "the original," given that the earliest surviving recipe for cornbread was written by a northerner (Amelia Simmons) and follows the proportions typically seen in northern recipes to this day. If one version is the pretender, it's not the northern.

The Food Lab: The Long and Short Paths to Chicken Paprikash

To get browned flavor into the quick paprikash, I recommend using shmalts instead of oil. As it's made by rendering chicken skin, it tastes of browned meat. For even more browned flavor, add gribenes, which have been browned more evenly and effectively than any whole piece of meat or skin still attached to the chicken.
Pretty much all of my slow cooker chicken recipes and chicken soups start with stripping off the skin to put in a pan over low heat. While the skin renders, the chicken starts cooking in the slow cooker and the onions (and other aromatics) are sliced and mixed with the spices. Once the rendering is complete, most of the shmalts is drawn off for later use (I keep a jar of the stuff in the fridge), the largest gribenes are removed for immediate consumption, and the onion mixture is sautéed in the pan (and remaining smalts) to brown and dissolve the fond. The par-cooked onions (and the small gribenes mixed in) are then added to the slow cooker.

Step-by-Step: How to Make Cranberry Apple Slab Pie

The slab pie is also a good format if you, like Fannie Farmer, think that chicken pie is the perfect contrasting accompaniment to your thanksgiving turkey.

Step-by-Step: How to Make a Foolproof Pumpkin Pie

I've found that the slow cooker is perfect for roasting pumpkins and squashes slowly. The only trick is putting a little water in there to make sure the parts of the squash directly touching the sides don't dry out and burn.

Has anyone tried the trick from some other SE article where you try to "seal" the crust using a small amount of white chocolate? How did that work out?

Any ideas on what to use instead of cream cheese for a non-dairy (fleishig) meal? In the opposite direction, how well would yoghourt (incl. Greek) or quark work?

Step-by-Step: How to Make the Best Pie Crust

I was going to ask the same as kriklaf, but over the issue of fleishig meals. Would shmaltz work?

Also, is the sugar necessary to the dough coming together, of can I just cut it for meat pies?

A Tale of Two Tapenades (and How to Make Them)

Do you think the dough attachment (or whatever the dull plastic blade is supposed to be) on a food processor would make a good compromise between blades and pestle?

How to Fillet a Fin Fish

There actually are some uses for fish entrails. The sounds (swim bladders), for example, are both fried and used as sausage casing in traditional New England cookery.

The Food Lab Fundamentals: The Science of Heat vs. Temperature

So I guess Kenji is the modern Fannie Farmer (whose most famous work includes sections on the elemental content of the human body and what fire is).

Want the Best Niçoise Salad? Stop Making it Like Everyone Else

One trick I've learned that should also get a bit more evenly distributed anchovy flavour: the oil used in canning both anchovies and tuna is generally of surprisingly high quality and can be used in a dressing or even home made mayo.

The Food Lab: How to Make the Best Carne Asada

Is there any particular reason you went with plain salt instead of more soy, and went with orange instead of pineapple or papaya? Did the meat get too soft?