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scalfin

The Rise and Fall of the Lime Rickey, the Soda Fountain Comeback Kid

It's interesting how so many of the soda jerks interviewed allow the cherry version from NY to be traditional but not the raspberry version of New England.

Piquillo Peppers Stuffed With Tuna and Aioli: Proof That Canned Foods Can Be Delicious

I've found that the oil used in the tuna cans makes a quite nice mayo, although I have to use a whole egg because the cup for my hand blender is on the large side. Basically, don't waste the oil tuna come packed in.

How to Make Your Ice Cream as Dense, Rich, and Chewy as a New England Scoop Shop's

If I may ask, why evaporated milk and syrup instead of condensed milk, and how does the more common tapioca flour compare to arrowroot?

Also, how does corn syrup compare to golden/treacle syrup? How about light molasses and maple?

For the Deepest, Darkest Chocolate Ice Cream, Add Cocoa Nibs

Interesting that you'd rag on Hershey's when Cook's Illustrated placed both its "natural unsweetened" cocoa and unsweetened chocolate bars higher than or on par with Valrhona, respectively. Oddly enough, the maker of their favorite cocoa and baking chocolate, Callebaut, made one of their least favorite unsweetened chocolates.

For tips, would it be possible to shove in even more flavour by replacing the sugar with carob and the fat in whole milk with cocoa butter?

The Food Lab: How to Make Foolproof Béarnaise Sauce

Is this as finicky about the fit of the blender cup as your mayo recipe? I haven't been able to make that work since moving and buying a new hand blender (it does work if I use whites too, though).

Also, would the chemistry of this be messed up if I use shmaltz instead of butter?

Cooking With Olive Oil: Should You Fry and Sear in it or Not?

Of course, one difference is that you still don't want your oil smoking away on the stovetop (or in the oven if you follow the strategy of heating up the dish by preheating the oven to its max temperature), meaning that you can get your pan and oil significantly hotter with a refined oil. Extra light olive oil is my preference for these applications, while cooler dishes use butter or shmaltz.

How Cereal Became the Quintessential American Breakfast

One slight quibble: the definition of "breakfast" seems to vary by era in America. Colonial farmers would leave with a mug of beer for morning subsistence and then come back hours later for a hearty breakfast. Similarly, leftover popcorn in milk was a common first meal at one point in the early US.

Leah Koenig on the Best Jewish Cookbooks and What People Get Wrong About Jewish Cuisine

I'd be interested to hear if there are any major differences between German Ashkenazic cooking and Ashkenazic cooking from farther east. Also, are there any unique recipes to Boston or New England's Jewish communities (which are largely from The Pale)?

One big concern I always have is the arbitrary nature of what's considered "modern." Why is marscepone modern but quark and sour cream not?

The Ultimate Vegan Party Food: Fully Loaded Queso Dip

Huh, last time somebody tried that on me, I replied that it was fine, I stirred some anchovy paste in after the first bite anyway. Never leave home without it.

Our Vegan Month Progress, Week 4: Temptation, Cheating, and What We've Learned

I've been trying to keep kosher myself, which is tough given that I have one pan,a closet-size kitchen (I keep melting prep bowls by putting them on burners I'm not using and then turning the wrong knob), and living in an area in which the few Jews are classical reform. Not easy, and not cheap.

2 Vegan Cheeses That Anyone Can Love

How about that fermented tofu stuff parts of East Asia make and I've never managed to get my hands on?

How to Make the Ultimate Rich and Creamy Vegan Ramen

Do you have any recommendations for tinkering with this to replicate various styles of ramen, like Hakodate-shio or Hokkaido-miso? I suppose that would call for some ages noodles, which might be hard to find.
Also, are there any lessons here that you're likely to go back and add to your meat ramen recipe, or that you'd recommend for someone trying to build a kosher ramen (which I don't think should be that hard for most styles, as chicken feet have all the gelatin a man could want)?

For an extra source of flavour, I've found that the green tops of leeks that most people throw out produce an amazing stock (I've even been able to get around using onions in cases where my supply was depleted) and form serviceable, if somewhat clumpy, "noodles."

Our Vegan Month Progress: Week 3, Checking Privilege and Staying the Course

Most teens these days have homework. I've seen some schedules suggestive of 80-hour weeks once school and homework are added up.

The Secret to Great Coq au Vin? Lose the Coq

Given that it all sits in a braise for hours, is there any purpose to browning the chicken skin on the chicken instead of stripping it off an throwing it in with or instead of the saltpork?

Beyond English Breakfast: An Introduction to the World's Great Teas

For reference, Kenyans brew their tea in a mix of milk, water, and often sugar. It's even called "chai," but doesn't have the spices. This is a major source of nutrition in the average person's diet, serving both as breakfast and midafternoon snack.

Avoid the Vegan Carb Crutch by Flouting Pasta Tradition

For cooking multiple things in the oven at different rates, I've had good luck stacking things under the broiler, so that the thing on top shields the stuff below from direct heat. Similarly, putting the bake setting on full blast and keeping one baking sheet at the bottom and another at the top seems to work, but that might just be my oven.

How the Northeast Set the Course of the American Cheese Industry

Quick correction: Plymouth was founded by the Puritans, Mass Bay was a mix of Congregationalists and Anglican sailors (open water sailing was a specialized skill).

Sichuan-Style Hot and Sour Eggplant Is a Great Dish That Just Happens to Be Vegan

That's odd, the fish eggplant from the Chinese place I like has conspicuous chunks of fish, although I'm pretty sure it's a Cantonese place and the name is something like "eggplant with salted fish casserole," so it may be a different dish.

Everything You Need to Know to Make Chinese Hot Pot at Home

So I take it fondue pots don't get hot enough?

Mull, Muddle, and the 12-Gallon Soup Pot: The Secret History of the South's Most Obscure Stew

The fish muddle sounds as if it may have been derived from chowder, which at that point was thickened with crushed members of the biscuit/cracker/hard-tack family rather than dairy. In fact, much of the history for the two is parallel, as both switched from crumbs to dairy.

In Defense of St. Louis-Style Pizza

I feel that there's an inspiration for a good Pessach recipe somewhere in here.

Digging Into Chicken Fried Steak, A Texas Icon

Of course, the most Texas thing of all about the dish is drowning a perfectly good piece of meat in fat two different ways and describing the process as "ingenuity," "perseverance," "creativity," and "positive attitude."

The Food Lab's Definitive Guide to Prime Rib

At some point, you should do a wellness guide to the different cuts of meat. I once made the mistake of ordering london broil medium-rare, and ended up chewing all night.

The Food Lab: Slow Cooked Bolognese Sauce

Why throw out all the fat from the top? It probably has similar cooking characteristics to butter, but with a meatier flavour. Hell, I'd probably use it as a spread next time I serve bread.
Of course, I'd probably also have less fat in the final dish because I don't eat pork. Will probably replace it with some other meat (duck? turkey leg?) or liver.

Going to Hawaii? 10 Must-Eat Local Specialties

I find the bit on musubi rice pretty suspect, as vinegar is the only thing that keeps sushi rice legal and edible. Without high acidity, something as aerated, moist, and calorie-rich as cooked rice quickly turns into a petri dish at room temperature, as it's basically the embodiment of FAT TOM. Is this like the schools on the island that start every day with a prayer before allowing kids into the classroom, in that people just ignore the rules because it's popular?

Cholent!

So, I don't see any recipes on the site for cholent, despite it being widely variable by family and national origin and a very handy holiday meal because of how far ahead you handle it. I've asked my parants if they inherited any recipes, but my mom's family was never that observant and my dad's mother didn't do big meals. It would be cool to see Kenji take a stab at a recipe like this, just to see how he responds to the need to make a dish longer instead of shorter and the necessary hands-off nature of the food, but I'd like to hear what the community has to say about it.

How can one use carob well?

Ah, carob, that oft-maligned chocolate substitute that is used in the middle east for all sorts of things. It can be made into a syrup/molasses, its seeds can be ground as a thickener, and its pods can be made into a powder. It naturally contains sugars. How is it properly used? I have no idea.
I've been thinking that one way to get a little bit of extra chocolate flavour into various products (mainly cookies, but I suppose cakes and brownies would work just as well) by replacing the sugar in recipes with carob, most likely by modifying a recipe that calls for a syrup (mollasses?) and substituting the carob version. I'd also substitute the butter with cocoa butter and see how badly that blows up in my face. Anyone know how that might work or turn out?
I'm also curious if anyone knows how it's used in its native cuisine.

Favorite/Most Amusing Chef Quirks

This topic was inspired by my watching several episodes of Simply Ming in a row and seeing how his apparent refusal to do multiple takes (there's really no other explanation) has led him to say humorously boneheaded things on the air. At one point, he said something to the effect of "and now I cut the fish into two pieces" while clearly cutting it into three. In a short, bookend segment, he said on the subject of toasting croutons "now this should take one minute at most [quick cut] okay, it's been two minutes and these are ready." He actually caught himself and corrected after referring to orange syrup as carrot syrup.
I've also heard that in my parent's day there were various famous chefs who tended to go through a good bit of wine over the course of an episode and quite clearly not finish sober.

So, Serious Eaters, what chef quirks amuse you?

Making a custard with coconut milk

So I'm making this bobotie recipe, but I don't mix meat and dairy. As such, I purchased coconut milk to take the place of conventional milk in the recipe. Are there any ways I'll have to adapt the recipe to make it work correctly?

Ideas for a millet-based desert?

Long story short, I have several packs of millet flour. Wikipedia says that it gives a sweet, nutty flavour to baked goods it is used in, so I thought that it would make a good cookie or pastry. Any ideas? I also have sunflower flour, if anyone has ideas for that.

10 (Not Just Green) Sweets To Make For St. Patrick's Day

There are a few routes you can take on St. Patrick's Day, ranging from the all green buffet to a more traditional spread. A lot of people like cooking with Guinness or whiskey—makes sense, as there's sure to be a lot around—and some like the ease of a classic soda bread. Whatever your style, we have 10 recipes to help you celebrate this Sunday. Éirinn go Brách! More