capitol burgers, la

Listen. I grew up in Hong Kong, so I lack any formative memory of southern barbecue during my childhood. All I have is this. I was in Durham, North Carolina when I first bit into a pulled pork sandwich at Hog Heaven Bar-B-Q. I remember it was early spring, I could see cars going by on 15-501, and the sky was very blue.

But what I remember most was the overwhelming feeling in that one bite of first encountering something vast, something much deeper and older than yourself. It has been fortunate, then, that barbecue is much like other gestures in that your understanding becomes more whole the more you do it.