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ryuthrowsstuff

So You Want to Make Ice Cream for 100 People?

A note on ice cream scoops. I worked in an ice cream shop as a teen and when you're serving large volumes of ice cream quickly the last thing you want is a a scoop with a metal sweeper (called a disher), or really any moving parts at all. No matter how well made they jam, freeze or gum up, or break under heavy use with ice cream. They're also the wrong shape for easily and quickly pulling a ball shaped scoop of ice cream. Dishers are really designed for precisely portioning products that are both softer and warmer than ice cream. Think lunch ladies with mash potatoes, cookie dough, meatballs etc. And typically not for service. If you're serving for that many people your better off with a standard all metal scoop designed specifically for ice cream and some warm water to lube it.

Serious Entertaining: A New England Seafood Dinner

I'm curious to see how a Caja China would work for a clam bake. Given that the thing is designed to mimic cooking in a pit it seems like it would yield more traditional results with a lot fewer problems than actually cooking in sand or metal buckets.

Wine Jargon: What Does Decanting Do To Wine?

I realize you have to fill out a whole column and that can be difficult can be difficult to do in an entertaining fashion your farting around the topic a bit to much. Decanting to remove sediments is largely pointless in all but very old, chunky reds. The bottle (particularly those with steep shoulders) is designed to do that on its own. Just pour slow and level rather than upending the bottle, leaving the last ounce or so. The real point is to aerate the wine. This is generally considered a useful thing. Though as noted the whys and where fores are dodgy aerated wine tastes better. The important bit here is swirling the wine in the decanter. The same effect can be had by swirling in the glass, blowing bubbles in the wine with a straw, using an aerator gadget, or sending the wine for a spin in the blender.

Steakcraft: Steaks at Delmonico's, America's Oldest Fine Dining Restaurant

@redfish that certainly makes a lot of sense, and certainly explains the importance of recent business records. But a fair lot of the time when I've seen these sorts of disputes over who has "the book" from x 100 year old restaurant people are very much talking about who has the earliest and most lists of reservations. Particularly when you're talking about situations where there wasn't a direct person to person sale of the business as a whole. A list of names, dates, and times relating to dead people doesn't have that sort of practical use. Neither do decades old ledgers. But they seem to factor in heavily in arguments over which restaurant is the real descendant of such and such famous place from 1880.

So I might have the records for the last 5 years the business was open, that gives me a lot of useful info. But if you have the same (or even partial) records dating from 1910 to the 60's, most people would consider your claim to continuity more legitimate. I even remember one situation from near my home town where some one picked up a few years worth of quarter century old reservation books from a famous place at a yard sale. He tried to use them as legal fuel to take control of the name/trademark from the family that originally (and to a certain extent still) operated the place. Didn't work but the restaurant he later opened was considered by a lot of people to legitimately be a part of the "family" of restaurants that grew out of the original.

Ask a Bartender: What's The Most Ridiculous Drink Order You've Ever Gotten?

Once had a guy order a round of shots consisting of creme cassis, Cointreau, and heavy cream (might have been some "GOOSE!" to make it classy). He apparently was trying to order something he couldn't remember the name of or recipe for. The other bartender called me over to see if I could place what the guy was going for. We both ended up telling the guy the same thing. If the cassis didn't curdle the milk the Cointreau would, and he was basically ordering a tray of cement mixers. But he insisted that wouldn't happen, and his group ended up ordering 4 rounds. Still remember watching the cream chunk up as we sent the drinks out to his table.

I think it was the worst thing I was every asked for, or have ever seen ordered.

Steakcraft: Steaks at Delmonico's, America's Oldest Fine Dining Restaurant

@raptoeEsq The current Delmonico's is located at the same location as the Original. In so far as these things go continuity tends to follow from possession of the location, access to or possession of recipes/menus, continuity of staff, and with more modern places ownership of trademarks and IP. There's also a weird thing I never understood about acquiring a restaurant's "book". Which usually refers to its literal books of past reservations, although can also refer to past business records/ledgers. I'm sure this is mostly symbolic but the business records might give some sort of legal leverage. Like I said never understood it. The guy who opened the Delmonico's at the original location in the 1920's (the first at that location not operated by the Delmonico family), clearly got the location and seems to have at least controlled the recipes and menus. So that gives him a pretty good claim to continuity with the original. As I understand it there's been a fairly obvious 1-1 sale of the business from that establishment to the current one despite the multi-year gaps in operation. So at the very least they can trace themselves to the place established in the 20's, and that place is well enough connected to the original to make the claim of being THE Delmonico's.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Delmonico%27s

Win Two Tickets to the Lucky Rice Cocktail Feast, May 2nd

Probably Men Kui Tei. Good ramen, better curry.

Cocktail 101: How to Cut Citrus Wedges

Cutting across the segments to produce a wheel or half wheel produces a flimsier fruit that doesn't squeeze as well. It also has way less fruit in it. So basically you don't want to do it for any drink where the citrus isn't a purely visual garnish. Oranges usually get cut that way all the time because their much bigger, so a wedge would be awkwardly large, and you aren't usually squeezing it.

And yeah MikeyyMikeyy knows what he's talking about. Its far far easier and faster to slash crosswise through the half to produce your notch. Just a shallow cut perpendicular to the segments. The goal is really to sever the membranes on every segment (particularly the thick bit at the center)the pulp parts pretty easily on its own.

Matzo Showdown: Manischewitz vs. Yehuda vs. Streit's

I always liked Streit's, but the only matzo I've had that was considerably better than any of these was the hand made kind. But then I'm not Jewish so I've never eaten a ton of the stuff.

Ask The Food Lab: Does Vodka Sauce Really Need Vodka?

@kenji I've read (and watched) a number of debunking of the alcohol cooking off bit from . Some claiming a set reduced %abv (of added alcohol, or total volume of the end result) or even the vast bulk of the alcohol hangs around no matter how hot or long you cook it. What's your read.

@scalfin. Last I checked adding gin to stews and braises, especially those marked jäger/hunter, was as a substitute for juniper berry. Its a pretty common spice in a lot of European cuisines but its never really been common or readily available in the US. Gin being strongly flavored with juniper it makes a decent replacement.

The Food Lab: 61-Day Dry-Aged, Sous-Vide, Torched-and-Seared Bone-in Ribeyes (AKA The Ultimate Steak)

@Kenji I'm also curious about torch choice. In that sexy, sexy pic you seem to be using a typical kitchen torch. Which tend to run at much lower temperatures (and higher cost) due to the butane fuel. I always found them to be in distinguishable from torch lighters for cigars and not much use.


You (and I) otherwise seem to use a propane plumbers/soldering torch, which are manlier and burn far hotter. I've also been messing around with my dad's MAPP/Map-Pro torch (yellow tank rather than green or blue which are both standard propane). It burns even hotter, cleaner, and more consistently. It also has an awesome belt holster and a length of hose between the tank and nozzle. These torches can sputter when the tank is angled or inverted and the hose seems to eliminate that.

New Mystery Whiskey: Michter's Original Sour Mash Whiskey

Their rye is rather nice and tends to crop up fairly often down the bar.

The Food Lab: 61-Day Dry-Aged, Sous-Vide, Torched-and-Seared Bone-in Ribeyes (AKA The Ultimate Steak)

@peekpoke try a rendered animal fat. Higher smoke point than butter it just tastes of delicious meat rather than oil once your done. My preference is for duck fat, but lard or tallow should work just fine.

Rachel Allen's Brown Soda Bread

This type of soda bread, often called "brown bread" or apparently "wheaten bread" is actually the more traditional form of soda bread. Way back when most of the Irish could not afford white flour, if they could afford wheat at all. So breads were made with a mixture of oats and whole wheat (ie brown) flour. The fruit studded, sweetened, and fruit havin' kind of soda bread is a much more recent creation based on the white soda breads made by wealthier families. I've had a lot of my Irish family complain about the inathenticy of it.

Rachel Allen's Potato, Leek, and Smoked Bacon Soup

The Irish great grandmother apparently made an oxtail stew by simmering some oxtails in a simple potato/potato and leak soup. Swap out the bacon for oxtails, its really pretty tasty.

3 Irish Red Ales You Need to Try This St. Patrick's Day

One bit of information that's missing here is whether these are traditional style Irish Reds or American. I'm going to assume American. Smithwick's is the prototypical red ale in Ireland. And not only is it not red in the least but it bears little or now resemblance to American style called "Irish Red".

Bar Bites: Irish Cheddar Fondue with Stout and Whiskey

@dandbuilder. Irish cheddar is cheddar made in Ireland obviously. There's a couple of types that are available in most super markets in the US. Usually made by Kerrygold. Otherwise it can be swapped out for an English cheddar or similar very dry, sharp, white cheddar. Vermont white cheddar would be similar enough, probably melt better too.

Rachel Allen's Irish Stew

@ CatScan right Patty is short for Patricia, Paddy is short of Pádraig the Irish language form of Patrick. So Patty is always a feminine name, you really won't find Patricks going by it anywhere.

And apparently my great grandmother cooked all her stews bone in. She was long gone by the time I was born, but a few of her recipes are floating around.

Whole Foods Announces Labeling of GMOs by 2018

Whole Foods Announces Labeling of GMOs by 2018

"The health effects of GMOs" no the health effects are known. There aren't any negative ones. And opposition to labeling doesn't originate just from the food industry. A fair lot of it comes from scientists. The vast majority of whom, especially those who have studied GMO's, see little know risk in the plants but quite a lot in the irresponsible scare mongering.

Ask The Food Lab: Do Bones Add Flavor to Meat?

@arbeck &Kenji

I'd assume in slow cooked applications the bone would have a greater effect than in quicker cooking. But I don't think much flavor will leach directly from the bone, as its still not very porous. In the "cooking to tenderness" rather than temperature approach (braises, bbq, low temp slow roasting) the plan is largely to foster the breakdown of connective tissue. And an awful lot of that lives in and around the bone. So presumable keeping more of that around will heavily effect texture and might effect flavor. And since these methods involve bringing the temp of the meat up to well done and beyond and then holding it there, might mitigate moisture loss.

3 Central and Eastern European Spirits You Should Know

I firmly maintain that the various Slavic fruit brandies are best when home made. A wider variety of fruits pop up in the illicit versions and I've often found that the barrel aging on the commercial versions just makes them harsher.

How to Brew Coffee in an Ibrik: A Modern Take

I worked for a guy from Albania who liked to brew up Turkish Coffee for the crew. It was some of the best of coffee of any sort I've ever had, and he completely refused to teach me how he made it. It wasn't dark and murky like most I've had (although there was fair amount of grounds in it). It was much lighter in body, almost oily, and a deep red in color. Ended up with a rich but very floral flavor with almost no bitterness. The only thing he'd cop to is that he started the grounds in the cold water as opposed to adding them to hot water.

Ask a Sommelier: How Do You Find the Best Value on a Wine List?

@lazy_lurker you can always ask to taste the wines by the glass and request a freshly opened bottle if it tastes old or spoiled. Most people have no issue with that. Or if you end up with a bunk glass just send it back for a fresh one, though that will get you far less consideration from the staff that the first route.


Ask about corkage fees when you make your reservation. A lot of places don't allow it or like it much. There's the loss of profits for them of course, but also a lot of sommeliers find it a bit insulting. But if make sure to know their policy, tell them you'll be bringing your own before you come in, bring something respectable, and offer to share interesting or special (typically a glass for the the sommelier and/or your waiter); you'll go a long way towards endearing yourself to the staff rather than cheesing them off.

Hot Dog of the Week: Kayem Old Tyme Reds (and Moxie) in New England

They stopped making Jordan's quite some time ago. Although before that they were sort of the do to red dog.

Roasting a Pig

My brother an I will be doing a hog this coming Saturday 40-50lb range. We've done this 3 times before, and he's done several pigs and a few lambs on his own. We'll be butterflying the pig and cooking it on what's basically a catering style grill. Shallow fire tray with adjustable grill height and a massive barrel style cover, with an off set fire and some water pans it does pretty well for this sort of thing.

We've got a nice handle on how we're going about it. ~225F, skin down protected by foil initially, basting with apple juice/vinger and lard on the meat side. Depending when we pick up the hog we'll either inject or let it take a long sit with a heavy rub. No sugar outside the juice. Expecting 6-8 hours not including rest but planning for longer. Maintaining a consistent temp can be tough in this grill. Using charcoal and a bit of hardwood for smoke.

Anyone have additional tips or advice?

Thanksgiving: What's Your Stuffing Approach?

It can be a very personal question. Do you use a boxed mix? Stovetop? Semi-homemade? Totally from scratch? Dry out the bread overnight first? And where do you fall in the dressing vs. stuffing debate? To clarify, "stuffing" is when it actually cooks in the bird's cavity while "dressing" bakes in a separate pan. Please discuss. More