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The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
Your visuals—especially the eggs sitting in a carton, cooked for increasing time periods—are fantastic! Thank you for this article. I look forward to reading more =)
Grocery Ninja: Korean Roasted Seaweed, Kim
philadooklyn: did they come in mini packs that look like this
I think your mom fed you ajitsuke nori—the soy-sauce basted, Japanese version. My mom did too =)
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Grocery Ninja: Korean Roasted Seaweed, Kim
Posted by Wan Yan Ling, May 4, 2009 at 12:30 PM
Bay Area Eats: Café Rehoboth, Ethiopian Food with Heart
Posted by Wan Yan Ling, April 27, 2009 at 7:40 PM
Grocery Ninja: Kumquats Are Grown-Up 'Mega Warheads'
Posted by Wan Yan Ling, April 20, 2009 at 3:45 PM
Grocery Ninja: Dried Persimmons Are a Taste of Honeyed Sunshine
Posted by Wan Yan Ling, April 13, 2009 at 5:45 PM
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The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
Posted by J. Kenji Lopez-Alt, October 9, 2009 at 11:45 AM
Market Scene: Divisadero Farmers' Market, San Francisco
Posted by Jen Maiser, August 24, 2009 at 7:30 PM
Serious Green: 6 Rules of a Good Farmers' Market
Posted by tressa eaton, August 25, 2009 at 3:15 PM
How to Make a Portable Picnic-in-a-Briefcase
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Recent Comments | Response to Comments
Serious Green: Rent-a-Ruminant to Get a Tough Job Done
Brilliant. When I was in Calcutta, we saw goats eating everything, including plastic bottles and the disposable terra cotta cups everyone used for chai (in place of paper/plastic/foam cups). If you weren't paying attention, they would nibble holes in your clothes too.
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
Your visuals—especially the eggs sitting in a carton, cooked for increasing time periods—are fantastic! Thank you for this article. I look forward to reading more =)
Grocery Ninja: Korean Roasted Seaweed, Kim
philadooklyn: did they come in mini packs that look like this
I think your mom fed you ajitsuke nori—the soy-sauce basted, Japanese version. My mom did too =)
Grocery Ninja: Korean Roasted Seaweed, Kim
winkyj: Thank you! I have plenty of fun hunting and gathering (and taste testing) for this column...
Grocery Ninja: Korean Roasted Seaweed, Kim
Cassaendra: I think kim makes most cooked sushi rolls better. They make even plain rice taste good =p
nomnom: Thank you for the pronunciation guide—I was wondering about that when I saw some sources spell it "gim."
I found a recipe for converting the regular plain seaweed sheets (nori) to kim here: http://skinny-epicurean.blogspot.com/
Exactly as you describe =)
Grocery Ninja: Korean Roasted Seaweed, Kim
bionicgrrrl: I've actually seen both versions used for kimbap in Korea. Maybe it's a commercial VS housemade difference? The seasoned and roasted kim doesn't hold up well if left sitting, so maybe that's why the plain ones tend to be used in stores?
Grocery Ninja: Korean Roasted Seaweed, Kim
missmanders: I'm not Korean, but I believe someone once told me that "Kim" (the family name) means "gold" and derives from the Chinese character for "gold."
Bay Area Eats: Café Rehoboth, Ethiopian Food with Heart
Adam: How about take-out Ethiopian? Then you can get as messy as you want in the comforts of your own home =)
HeartofGlass & cycorider: Thank you! I love the restraint with which spices are used in Ethiopian food—no one spice ever dominates or overwhelms, everything just sings together =p
Grocery Ninja: Kumquats Are Grown-Up 'Mega Warheads'
VerySmallAnna: I made all my friends try them—no one expects the rind to be sweet. Fun!
Grocery Ninja: Kumquats Are Grown-Up 'Mega Warheads'
effingfoodie: I love the preserved, candied kumquats that you can get individually-wrapped in Asian groceries. Perfect for stashing in the purse and taking out when the munchies strike (I now sound like my grandmother!).
Grocery Ninja: Dried Persimmons Are a Taste of Honeyed Sunshine
KarynMC: Ouch, that is pricey. I'll have to ask a friend who's making a trip to Canada to bring some back—thanks for the tip! Oh, and the great thing about SE is that here, you're not obsessed. You're just normal ;)
Grocery Ninja: Dried Persimmons Are a Taste of Honeyed Sunshine
Ambitous: Yes, persimmons are definitely a fall fruit. But the great thing about hoshigaki/gotgam/shibing is that they're available year-round =)
If you like gooey-ripe persimmons, you're going to love this (if you don't already!): persimmon semi-freddo. You take a very ripe hachiya persimmon and stick it in the freezer for an hour. Remove from the freezer, slice in half, and take a spoon to the now-frozen/slushy insides. Healthy and delicious—my mom and I discovered this when we bought what we thought were ultra-firm persimmons from a street vendor on a freezing winter day.
Grocery Ninja: Dried Persimmons Are a Taste of Honeyed Sunshine
KarynMC: Of course you can, thank you =) I don't have a friend in that part of the world, but I'll keep my eyes out for spculoos paste—sounds intriguing.
Grocery Ninja: Dried Persimmons Are a Taste of Honeyed Sunshine
hmwoo29: I love hoshi-imo! They're my go-to snack these days just before gym and when I know I have a busy day ahead with no time for real meals.
I find the bitterness of strong green tea does a good job of cutting through the sweetness of hoshigaki... but you're right, they can be very sweet on their own.
Grocery Ninja: Dried Persimmons Are a Taste of Honeyed Sunshine
avocadoboba: If you're looking for hoshigaki specifically, you can find them at Japanese groceries like Nijiya. Shibing you'll be able to find in Chinese groceries like Ranch 99 (though watch out for dryness!).
I get my stash of gotgam from Hankook Supermarket in Sunnyvale, CA (http://www.yelp.com/biz/hankook-supermarket-sunnyvale#hrid:bqqfvRJgc92JXC7H_z7OdA/src:search/query:korean%20grocery)—they're delicious!
Grocery Ninja: Crisp, Golden, Buttery Roti Prata—the Asian Croissant
su lin: A roti prata wrapped around a hot dog sounds like an interesting, Asian take on the corn dog =p I've seen roti prata used as a pizza base before—actually worked pretty well.
Grocery Ninja: Crisp, Golden, Buttery Roti Prata—the Asian Croissant
cucumberpandan: The duck egg version sounds ike it would be heinously rich—I would love to try it =) What I would give for some acar now...
Grocery Ninja: Crisp, Golden, Buttery Roti Prata—the Asian Croissant
Elena3141: I was thinking of acrobatic pizza dough-making—the kind of pizza dough that gets spun and tossed and flipped in mid-air =p
Grocery Ninja: Tsokolate—Smokey, Nutty, Pinoy Hot Chocolate
lorelai76: I've never heard of barako before—could you tell me how it's different in flavor/body from the arabica beans we're used to here? Also, why is it "best sweetened with honey or brown sugar?"
I wished I lived next door to you—just think of the adventures we could get up to in the kitchen! =)
Grocery Ninja: What to Do With Condensed Milk
I second crisp, golden, burn-your-fingers-hot churros dipped in condensed milk!
Grocery Ninja: What to Do With Condensed Milk
cucumberpandan: Happy tasty trials, indeed! I see an avo shake with lashings of espresso and sweet, creamy condensed milk in my near future... probably this weekend =)
Grocery Ninja: Tsokolate—Smokey, Nutty, Pinoy Hot Chocolate
lorelai76: Cashew nuts, oh my! I think I may round up cashew nut butter, almond butter, and the valencia peanut butter I used for a taste test =p
I had a tsokolate-interruptus situation the other day, and wound up putting half a mug's worth in the fridge. Chilled tsokolate is heavenly rich and even sludgier (in a good way) in consistency =p
Chocolate Power
The Koreans use buckwheat husks in their remarkably comfy pillows. I wonder if you can stuff cocoa husks in pillows too?
Grocery Ninja: Tsokolate—Smokey, Nutty, Pinoy Hot Chocolate
mcebacal: I'm in love with how earthy, nuanced, and full-bodied tsokolate is =)
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
@bgruber
Thanks to SeriousEats convenient comment subscriptions, I get comments forwarded to my inbox, so yep. Still reading them.
As for the answer... em... because Cook's Illustrated readers like their salmon more well-done than I do?
shh... don't tell Chris!
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
Kenji, if you're still reading the comments on this...
"This is very similar to the gunk that seeps out of the surface of overcooked salmon."
When you did the poached/steamed salmon on ATK, you had white gunk, but made a point to say that it didn't mean the salmon was overcooked. Why the discrepancy? Was that a special case because of the cooking method?
Also, thanks for this and all of your articles on here. They've been great.
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
@ScoutinSpokane - sounds like something that might be good for the toaster oven.
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
I adore soft boiled eggs!! I could eat 10 at a time for sure!
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
Kenji,
The heat transfer rate/area = (coefficient of thermal conductivity)*(T_bath-T_egg)/distance
The equation is the same regardless of the medium. The dependence on the medium comes from the thermal conductivity coefficient.
Also, I agree with you that we are the only two involved in this conversation right now :)
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
I may have missed it, but I didn't see any comments about baking "hard boiled" eggs. I didn't think it would work when I saw the article, but just set the raw eggs on middle rack of a cold oven, (they recommend a little foil on the bottom of the oven in case one is cracked and breaks - never had it happen) set oven temp to 325, set timer to 30 min., when timer goes off, drop in very cold water. I've done it several times, worked perfect everytime. Tried pulling some out at 25 min., yolks were not completely set good enough for devilled eggs, but perfect for eating with a little salt and pepper. One complaint about this method is wasting electricity just for a few eggs. I had my potatoes wrapped in foil, some bread rolls rising, and some jalepeno poppers that I bake as an appetizer ready to go in at appropriate times once full temp was reached. Egg salad sandwiches, potato salad, some appetizers, and probably hashbrowns for breakfast in my future. What energy waste?
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
@pookay
p.s. All of this is starting to remind me why thermodynamics was my second least favorite class in college :)
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
@pookay - yes, you're right. I jumped the gun in my response there. I stand corrected.
But at the risk of putting my foot in my mouth again, I'm going to ask you another question: my immediate reaction is that your statement that the rate of heating is inversely proportional to the distance is not quite accurate, because it does not take into account the heat transfer coefficient of the egg. In a vacuum, yes, the rate of heating is proportional to only the distance, but an egg has mass, and so there is a coefficient involved, and that coefficient is proportional to thickness of the egg that the heat has to pass through, so does that not turn the equation into an exponential one instead of a linear one?
And one more question: are we losing the other SEers here? :)
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
Kenji,
The contradition I pointed out still stands no matter what constants are involved since any constant divided by zero is still infinity.
The rate of heating per area is proportional to the temperature difference and inversely proportional to the distance (this actually means that in the instant right after the cool egg is put in the boiling water, the rate of heat transfer to the outer surface of the egg is infinite; note that this is not a paradox since an infinite rate times an infinitely small time interval is still a finite amount of heat). The temperature itself is not inversely proportional to the distance (or the square of the distance); solving the rate equation, the temperature approaches that of the boiling water exponentially fast with time so that if you wait long enough the whole egg will be the same temperature as the bath. The distance to the heat bath appears only in the exponent, so that the closer to the bath, the faster the temperature changes.
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
@Pookay
Thanks for the correction, although I think the original statement is technically not inaccurate - the temperature I did say proportional, which is not to say that there are not constants involved (such as the temperature of the heat source) in the equation that takes care of the zero/infinity case.
Newton's law of cooling only states that the rate of heat transfer is proportional to the temperature difference between the body and its surroundings - it doesn't have anything to do the temperature gradient formed within a solid mass. To solve that, I think it helps to think of the egg as something like a russian doll - a series of solids. From there you can see that because of Newton's law of cooling, the outer layers heat up at a much faster rate than the inner layers and that the differences in the rate at which the various layers are heating up is proportional to the distance, which means that the differences in the actual temperatures of the various layers are proportional to the inverse square of the distance.
@Attack monkey
I was doing it lid off - but like I said in the post, you can't control for all the variables that might affect cooking time - your house might be a few degrees cooler than mine, or your stove might have a few more btu's than mine. This article is meant more as a guide so that you know what aspects to consider when boiling an egg, and so that you understand the science behind it, and will thus be able to optimize cooking in your own particular environment. If that means putting on a lid to reduce the rate of heat loss, so be it!
- Kenji
Serious Green: Rent-a-Ruminant to Get a Tough Job Done
Why no mention of the other "good stuff" they leave behind? That has value as well.
Serious Green: Rent-a-Ruminant to Get a Tough Job Done
@accidentalepicurean: Lorenzo and others are correct, the morning glory used in Thai cooking is related to the plant that chokes European and North American gardens, but it is not the same thing. SE Asian morning glory grows in marshes: http://www.simply-thai.com/Thai-Market_Thai_Vegetables_Water_Spinach.htm
Serious Green: Rent-a-Ruminant to Get a Tough Job Done
@accidentalepicurean: There are many types of Morning Glory. I am not familiar with pad boom fai dang, but if it is made with what I know as Water Morning Glory, also known as Water Spinach (and, I think, Rau Muong in Vietnamese), I'd love the dish. I'm no botanist, but I suspect that Water Morning Glory, which I believe is a more or less aquatic plant, is not the same thing as the Morning Glories with the pretty flowers that we see frequently in N. America and which goats apparently will take pleasure in eating.
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
@J. Kenji Lopez-Alt
Awesome write-up, I disdain cooking but am a scientist at heart... First thing I did was cruise down to the kitchen to give it a shot. When doing HB (but also SB) are you putting/leaving the lid on? That significantly changes the rate of heat loss to the environment and can make a big change in the water temperature variation over time...?
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
As a scientist, I'm glad that someone is starting a series focusing on this aspect of cooking. However, I would like to point out an inconsistency:
"when a mass is exposed to heat for a given period of time, a temperature gradient will form within that mass, with the area closest to the heat source being hottest, and the area furthest from the heat source being coolest. With very few exceptions, the temperature of a given spot in the food is proportional to the inverse square of its distance from the surface exposed to the heat source."
If this were true, since the distance from the heat source at the surface of the egg is zero, this would imply that the surface of the egg has infinite temperature. I think you mean to say that the RATE of heat conduction depends on the distance from the heat source (as well as the temperature difference). Also, the rate of heat conduction is proportional to the inverse of the distance from the source, NOT the inverse squared (Newton's law of cooling).
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
I love the scientific approach to the art of boiling an egg. However, I am surprised the author did not mention the temperature of the egg going into the water. Were his eggs right out of the refrigerator (I don't thing so) or were they at room temperature? This is an important consideration and I am surprised that it wasn't mentioned!
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
I will beg to differ on the instructions given here.
You *can* have more control and reduce the variables involved in cooking your eggs. First of all, starting with cold eggs right out of the fridge is a mistake. You are maximizing the temperature difference between the egg's starting temperature and its final temperature. You will have much more control if you warm the eggs first. I place them in a bath of hot tap water for 10 minutes while I heat my water.
Secondly, I place the eggs directly into boiling water. The reason I put the eggs directly into boiling water is that waiting for a boil is a "soft target". What you consider a boil or a simmer could be as much as a minute different from someone else.
Lastly, I stop the cooking after a prescribed period of time by pouring off most of the hot water and replacing it with water and ice.
In summary: 1) I reduce the temperature change that will be required from the starting point of the egg to the end point of the process by warming the eggs up. 2) I avoid soft milestones by placing the eggs directly into boiling water at the beginning of the cooking process. 3) I stop the cooking (and improve the peel of the egg) by using an ice wash at the end.
BTW, if you want hot eggs, pull them out after only 10 or 15 seconds. The ice water will have already improved the peel by cooling the membrane and surface of the egg without cooling the inside of the egg. You can even peel the egg most of the time before the heat rebounds and makes the egg too hot to hold. A neat trick!
Indulging Your Inner Colicchio: Judging a Midterm at the FCI
Susan, Goode luck with your mid term.
I know you will do great
Mike G
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
I've been doing it the way that Sara Moulton mentioned on her show many years ago - put the eggs in a saucepan covered with water. Bring it to a boil, not a hard boil. Turn off heat. Cover and let sit on a cold burner for a specific amount of time (I think she said 13 minutes but I do it for 16 minutes).
Remove carefully. Crack. Peel.
I find that if I crack them a bit and then refrigerate for awhile, they peel much easier.
So I am not really boiling per-say. This way I never over-boil, I never get a green line around the yolk, and I don't get that horrid sulphur smell you get from over boiling. Works well every time for me.
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
We did an entire series on "how to eggs" back in July. From getting the basics down we moved the egg out of its normal breakfast role into dinner as well as methods were really fool proof, we tried and tried until, well, perfect! http://www.chezus.com/?s=incredible+egg&x=0&y=0
Grocery Ninja: Tsokolate—Smokey, Nutty, Pinoy Hot Chocolate
Oh, tsokolate. This is the ultimate comfort drink. What's great is that you can make it as thick or as thin as you like. It's a staple in our new year's eve dinner, great with cheesy, buttery ensaymada!
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
I love this article! I've always thought I was an idiot since every time I boil eggs (I'm a hard boil-type), there is always something wrong with them. Now I know why! Soft boiled eggs look fascinating, but runny yolks gross me out big time.
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
I tried but could not get the "perfect soft-cooked egg" by placing an egg taken straight from the fridge into 180F water, despite meticulously maintaining the water bath at eggsactly 180F for the six minutes the egg was immersed. The egg was considerably undercooked, with the whites fairly liquidy. I'm going to try egg-en.
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
Ah....why am I only now finding this site??? The first article I read is the best thing since my Food Science class in culinary AND I find that it references the chef I admire most! I am ova-ly eggstatic! This has been worth the hunt...Knowing the whys and hows only make us better at what we love doing most.
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
Thank you, thank you! This was egg-citing to read because being a food nerd, I did always want to know egg-xactly how to boil the perfect egg. So thank you for shelling out this info!!!
Recent Posts
Grocery Ninja: Korean Roasted Seaweed, Kim
Posted by Wan Yan Ling, May 4, 2009 at 12:30 PM
Bay Area Eats: Café Rehoboth, Ethiopian Food with Heart
Posted by Wan Yan Ling, April 27, 2009 at 7:40 PM
Grocery Ninja: Kumquats Are Grown-Up 'Mega Warheads'
Posted by Wan Yan Ling, April 20, 2009 at 3:45 PM
Grocery Ninja: Dried Persimmons Are a Taste of Honeyed Sunshine
Posted by Wan Yan Ling, April 13, 2009 at 5:45 PM
Grocery Ninja: Crisp, Golden, Buttery Roti Prata—the Asian Croissant
Posted by Wan Yan Ling, April 6, 2009 at 11:50 AM
Grocery Ninja: Tsokolate—Smokey, Nutty, Pinoy Hot Chocolate
Posted by Wan Yan Ling, March 30, 2009 at 3:00 PM
Grocery Ninja: What to Do With Condensed Milk
Posted by Wan Yan Ling, March 23, 2009 at 11:30 AM
Bay Area Eats: Silky, Steamed Milk Pudding at San Francisco's Golden Island Cafe
Posted by Wan Yan Ling, March 16, 2009 at 3:30 PM
Grocery Ninja: Yujacha, Korean Yuzu Tea
Posted by Wan Yan Ling, March 9, 2009 at 10:00 AM
Grocery Ninja: Sambal Goreng Udang, Indonesian 'Furikake'
Posted by Wan Yan Ling, March 2, 2009 at 10:30 AM
Bay Area Eats: Snail Vermicelli at San Jose's Saigon Seafood
Posted by Wan Yan Ling, February 23, 2009 at 10:10 AM
Bay Area Eats: Fish Tacos Extraordinaire from Mariscos Sinaloa
Posted by Wan Yan Ling, February 16, 2009 at 3:10 PM
Bay Area Eats: Cupertino's Porridge Place
Posted by Wan Yan Ling, February 9, 2009 at 3:30 PM
Bay Area Eats: Kahoo Ramen and the Quest for the Magic Egg
Posted by Wan Yan Ling, February 2, 2009 at 11:45 AM
Bay Area Eats: Hog Island Oyster Farm
Posted by Wan Yan Ling, January 26, 2009 at 6:00 PM
Bay Area Eats: Wuji Ma La Hot Pot
Posted by Wan Yan Ling, January 19, 2009 at 11:30 AM
Bay Area Eats: Golden Mar, Seriously Good Indonesian Food
Posted by Wan Yan Ling, January 12, 2009 at 2:40 PM
Bay Area Eats: Mi Pueblo's Fantastic Deli
Posted by Wan Yan Ling, January 5, 2009 at 9:00 AM
Bay Area Eats: Pho To Chau in Mountain View, California
Posted by Wan Yan Ling, December 30, 2008 at 10:30 AM
Grocery Ninja: Agave Nectar, Not Just for Hippies
Posted by Wan Yan Ling, December 15, 2008 at 2:30 PM
Grocery Ninja: Sticky, Caramelly, Stroopwafels
Posted by Wan Yan Ling, December 8, 2008 at 3:15 PM
Grocery Ninja: King Oyster Mushrooms, aka 'Drumsticks on Trees'
Posted by Wan Yan Ling, December 1, 2008 at 2:30 PM
Grocery Ninja: Pandan, the Asian Vanilla
Posted by Wan Yan Ling, November 25, 2008 at 2:30 PM
Grocery Ninja: Kaya, Coconut Egg Jam
Posted by Wan Yan Ling, November 17, 2008 at 3:15 PM
Grocery Ninja: Chicha Morada, Peruvian Purple Corn Drink
Posted by Wan Yan Ling, November 11, 2008 at 11:30 AM
Recent Favorites
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
Posted by J. Kenji Lopez-Alt, October 9, 2009 at 11:45 AM
Market Scene: Divisadero Farmers' Market, San Francisco
Posted by Jen Maiser, August 24, 2009 at 7:30 PM
Serious Green: 6 Rules of a Good Farmers' Market
Posted by tressa eaton, August 25, 2009 at 3:15 PM
How to Make a Portable Picnic-in-a-Briefcase
Posted by Robyn Lee, May 22, 2009 at 3:10 PM
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About Wan Yan Ling
Website: http://barefootinthekitchen.wordpress.com/
Location: Mountain View, CA
About: Fresh out of grad school, I shuttle between the Bay Area, NY, and the Asian-Pacific region seeking out stories, interesting people, and good eats. I am a proud mom of a constantly hungry sourdough starter called "Nessie" and an ailing bonsai.
Favorite foods: All manner of tropical fruit... from the ultra stinky and luxuriously creamy durian, to juicy, ruby red lychees, honeyed jackfruit, and fresh water chestnuts.
Last bite on earth: The sweet nectar of an old coconut, and the tender, slippery, creamy flesh of a young one. Plus an entire bowl of chilled fresh water chestnuts (peeled by someone else).

Brilliant. When I was in Calcutta, we saw goats eating everything, including plastic bottles and the disposable terra cotta cups everyone used for chai (in place of paper/plastic/foam cups). If you weren't paying attention, they would nibble holes in your clothes too.