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Meat Lite: Black Beans and Rice, My Way
@dbrackst I feel a tugging on my leg...
Cook the Book: 'The Pioneer Woman Cooks'
Serious Eats without a doubt. After that it's Manjula's Kitchen, Show me the curry, cuisinecuisine, eat me daily, slice, I could go on...
Are You a Night Baker?
So I'm reading Lonesome Dove and all they're talking about is baking biscuits, biscuits, biscuits. It's three am I'm in bed I can't sleep and all I can think of is biscuits. And so, at 3:25am I standing in my kitchen with Bittman's How to Cook Everything open to the biscuit making page. By 3:50am I'm eating eight warm biscuits with butter running down my wrist. Now tell me,does it get better than that?
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Recent Comments | Response to Comments
Dear Slice: 'Heading to NYC, and Pepe's in New Haven'
I'm astounded by the undeserved dis of Pepe's clam pie. It was only a few weeks ago that my food writer friend and I drove up to NH with the specific intention of eating that very pizza. We even called ahead to make sure Pepe's had a clam pie that day since we were disappointed last time around when no clams were to be had. We arrived about 3pm. Not much of a wait at that time of day. We were seated almost as soon as we walked through the door. We ordered our prey. It came to the table large, hot, redolent of garlic and chopped fresh salty succulent clams. A little sprinkling of cheese (not a no-no in this instance) The crust was perfect. Chewy, crisp and light. Not a bit doughy or tough. The pie was, in a word, perfection and I will defend it to the death. To paraphrase a well-respected, former contender for the vice presidency of the United States-- I have had Pepe's clam pie and Lombardy's you are no Pepe's.
Meat Lite: Black Beans and Rice, My Way
@dbrackst I feel a tugging on my leg...
Cook the Book: 'The Pioneer Woman Cooks'
Serious Eats without a doubt. After that it's Manjula's Kitchen, Show me the curry, cuisinecuisine, eat me daily, slice, I could go on...
Are You a Night Baker?
So I'm reading Lonesome Dove and all they're talking about is baking biscuits, biscuits, biscuits. It's three am I'm in bed I can't sleep and all I can think of is biscuits. And so, at 3:25am I standing in my kitchen with Bittman's How to Cook Everything open to the biscuit making page. By 3:50am I'm eating eight warm biscuits with butter running down my wrist. Now tell me,does it get better than that?
Cook the Book: 'Gourmet Today'
My first 'real' cookbook, and by that I mean the first one I actually cooked from, was Marcella Hazan's 'Classic Italian Cookbook'. That book along with my next door neighbor who hailed from the Emilia Romagna region of Italy, imbued me with a passion for excellent Italian food and a love for cooking that has remained undiminished for over three decades. Marcella remains my go-to expert for all things Italian. It was my pleasure to meet her about a year ago when she was promoting her memoir. I brought my original copy of 'Classic' for her to sign. It was torn, battered, splattered; a ruinous mess. I handed it to her. She looked at the book then looked up at me with a sly barely perceptible smile and said--'so, you use this?'
A16, San Francisco
@lapizzamaven...To be more specific I found the crust soggy, the sauce bland and the cheese watery and lacking any body or character. Did I hit an off night?
A16, San Francisco
I guess I'll be in the minority here (and other food blogs perhaps) but I gotta say that my A16 pizza experience was less than transcendent. The pizza might make a splash in SF where the competition is nil but when you have your choice of Di Fara's, Lucali, Franny's and many other top notch pizza purveyors in NYC A16 gets left in the dust. Just my opinion.
Compiling recipes for a family cookbook - advice?
Get thee to your local library and pick up a copy of 'The Way to Write and Publish a Cookbook' by Doris McFerran Townsend. It's an oldie but goodie published in 1985. It has indispensible information on how to properly construct recipes, how to write non-recipe material and other valuable tips.
Cook the Book: 'What We Eat When We Eat Alone'
Spaghetti alla gricia. Mario Batali's recipe is kick ass good.
What makes you feel better?
Dinner at al di la in brooklyn NY.
Cook the Book: 'The Barcelona Cookbook'
I just came back from Barcelona. It is so about the tapas. Cal Pep, Bar Central in the back of the Boqueria, Cervesia Catalana, Quimet i Quimet. All, in my opinion, so much better than the 'better' restaurants.
Dear Food Network, Please Stop
And one more thing. The person who I really miss is Mario. That man can cook.
Dear Food Network, Please Stop
A number of years ago a friend of mine who is a very high powered TV executive producer went to FN for an interview. She was told that the FN was interested only in those red state folks. Yes, blue box mac and fake cheese, etc. That is the target audience and the rest of us are left holding the spatula. They can get my eyeballs with jamie at home, alton, ina and tyler's ultimate. Oh, yes, and secrets of a restaurant chef. Chiarello, too. The rest is pure garbage, imho.
Serious Heat: Where Do You Buy Your Spices?
I totally understand the allure of Kalustyan's with its coffers overflowing with every spice imaginable beautifully arranged in a Morrocan bazaar-like setting. But here's the dirty little secret--many of the chefs in NYC pass over Kalustyan's for the more sedate place next door, Food of India. In my more than a decade of cooking Indian food (and other ethnic foods) I have found Foods of India's spices to be more reliable in freshness, quality and price. Next time you're in the area give them a try.
Cook the Book: 'Serious Barbecue' by Adam Perry Lang
I'm ready. I just set up two grills. A Weber kettle and a Weber gas. I am SO ready!
Mixed Review: Arora Creations Gobi Cauliflower
Tasty, yes. Healthy, I'm not convinced. Did you see the sodium content on that package? Those prepacked Indian meals are loaded with salt. Check your blood pressure before purchasing.
Trichinosis in Free-Range Pigs: Cause for Concern, or Sloppy Editing and Writing?
Let us not forget that the author of the op-ed piece also has a book to sell. Nothing like a controversy to keep one's name in the forefront . Or in the front of Barnes & Noble's window. I agree with Ed that the piece was irresponsible and had more than a tinge of hysteria attached to it. I was also flummoxed by the use of the term 'free-range pig". I am used to that designation to describe how chickens, etc are rasied but I have never heard the term in reference to pigs. Heritage yes, free range no. I also agree with the poster who stated that commodity pork is full of antibiotics that probably do us more harm than we know. I'll take a chop from Flying Pigs over one from Stop N Shop any day and take my chances. And as for the New York Times, well, aren't they the paper that promoted the war in Iraq with fabricated and/or erroneus information?
Healthy & Delicious: Chicken Paprikash
Truff. That was the first thing I thought of too:-)
Dinner Tonight: Cauliflower-Potato Curry (Aloo Gobhi)
@TruckBoatTruck, Julie Sahni is a great place to start. If you find her Classic Indian Cooking daunting get yourself a copy of her Indian Regional Classics. It's a pared down version of her seminal work(very pared down)but the recipes are tasty and easy to prepare. Get behind a few of those recipes and then, as you feeling more confident, go back to Classic indian Cooking. Also check out the web site cuisinecuisine (www.cuisinecuisine.com). All Indian all the time with some very good recipes and lots of lore.
Mixed Review: Betty Crocker's Oatmeal Caramel Bars
Lucy, I think I have found the ultimate in boxed decadence. It's called the Double Decker Chocolate Chip Turtle Brownie Bar. Check out the web site inncuisne.com and drool over the color picture of this confection. Just one look, that's all it took to get me over to my nearest supermarket to pick up a bag of Betty Crocker's Chocolate Chip Cookie mix and Ghirardelli's Carmel Turtle Brownies mix. Tonight's the night. Wish me luck and please don't tell my doctor.
Legendary NYC Vegetable Peeler Salesman Joe Ades, 75
Last spring when I went to the Whitney Biennial (God knows why I do this this every other year, the art is so disappointing that I fear for the future of culture in this country) a familiar voice stopped me in my tracks. It came from the video portion of an installation piece. There was Joe Ades doing his peeler thing voice booming out of the sound system and image, as dapper as ever, for all to see. Just by chance I happened to see him a week later at his spot at Union Square. I went up to him and told him about his cameo at the Whitney. "Yes, yes, he bellowed at me, 'I know, I know'. And without missing so much as a beet (Ok, forgive me that one) he kept on peeling. I'll miss him.
Cook the Book: Sweet and Sour Vietnamese Wings
Is it really a good idea to baste the wings with a marinade that held raw chicken? Sounds like an accident waiting to happen don't you think?
What's Your New Year's Menu?
Osso buco with the traditional accompanyment of risotto Milanese. I also got my hands on a bona fide cotechino today. Made with lentils it is the Italian New Year's Day celebratory meal. Veal and a side of pork. Oh joy!
Seriously Delicious Holiday Giveaway: Two Peter Luger Steaks
Yes, I know. For the purposes of this contest I should say that, without a doubt, my favorite cut of steak is the Porterhouse. Alas, it would be an abject lie. The fact remains that I just love a good, perfectly grilled, ribeye steak, bone in, please. And nobody does it better than my girlfriend.
Mixed Review: Stonewall Kitchen Blueberry Pancake and Waffle Mix
I like food. I like to cook. I'm a damn good cook. I like Aunt Jemima pancake mix. Am I a bad person?
Dear Slice: 'Heading to NYC, and Pepe's in New Haven'
Adam out of respect for the Wooster St legacy I kept Pepe's at #3 because of the respect issue and because there are other pies Like the Clam which are out of this world. But I observed other people cutting into their pies and everyone was having the same issue and looked upset that it was taking so much work to eat their pies.....
the slice when you would pick it up would stay straight that's how tough the actual crust has been coming out of the oven lately at both locations.
I've eaten Pizza in quite a few cities and I've followed the GQ Pizza Article on a few of the Detroit pizzeria's since I have family on my wife's side who live out that way.
I really enjoyed buddy's pizza and actually found photos on my cell phone that I sent in. Way different pizza squares and such....
But back to New Haven, for the health conscious Pizza eater up the road about 4 miles up on Whitney ave in Hamden there is Olde World Pizza they do lo carb and even wheat pizza. It's not coal oven but it's pretty good stuff as well.
I haven't eaten yet at the new Yonkers location or the Mohegan Sun for Pepe's but once they went to 7 days a week and opening up at 11:30am something has changed, you need more staff, different people making the pizza and it's just different at Pepe's right now...
I should send them an email because I'm asked all the time 6'3 300lbs which of the big 5 is the best and I tell anyone depends on what you like on it. Sausage hands down is Zupps...... Modern is bigger in seating capacity, very thin Apizza...But they have won best pizza in the Advocate for the past 7 years....Ballot stuffing who knows..... But everyone I know loves Modern. The one thing I do love in regards to the peperoni used at Sallys and Pepe's is that it's cut off the stick.....It doesn't get any better than that......
Then you have to go down the block on Wooster for Italian Ice at Libby's.
Libby's has a new location in North Haven right down the street from me.
Homemade just awesomeness is all I can say. You want any Italian Cookie or Angel Wings, expresso , etc.....It doesn't get any better than Libby's after throwing down.....
Anyone ever wants to do a Pizza throwdown with a Former/Transplanted New Yorker.....
Just drop me a line.....
Enjoy the weekend and holidays everyone...
Dear Slice: 'Heading to NYC, and Pepe's in New Haven'
Wow. Thanks for the great intel, offthemeter. Interesting that Pepe's still comes in at No. 3 even from what you say above. Before I got to your ranking, I expected it to be somewhere after Bar or Zuppardi's. It's now clear we'll have to go back and do Bar and Zuppardi's (and re-try Pepe's).
Dear Slice: 'Heading to NYC, and Pepe's in New Haven'
I want to chime in since I grew up in New York City and now live 10 minutes from the Big 5 Modern, Sally's Pepe's, Zuppardi's and Bar.
Pepe's the last 3 times in the past 2 months and 1 time at the Spot which is the original Pepe's. Their crust I couldn't even cut it with my knife and it was beyond noticeable. 4 times same Original Location and the same experience it's not a coincidence until I read the other posts on here today.
Sallys sauce when you ask for extra sauce is the sweetest of the bunch. The rudeness factor makes me laugh but my wife refuses to eat there and she's a native and lifer of the area. The issue is they can only squeeze in 10 pies into their oven at a time and they take phone orders if you can get through.
Modern is our favorite out of the Big 5 the Italian Bomb is a hearty pie sausage, pep, bacon, onion, red pepper. I'm a Pepperoni guy that's all I need and sometimes just good old Sauce and Grated does me fine as well.
Bar Pizza is made by someone who used to work at Sally's so that's why it gets high marks as a sleeper pizza. I've only had pepperoni and cheese and it was pretty good.
Zuppardi's in West Haven...Their sausage Pie is really good not Coal Oven though and the decor is very old school.... Gives it Character.
1.Modern
2.Sally's
3.Pepe's
4. Zups
5. Bar
Dear Slice: 'Heading to NYC, and Pepe's in New Haven'
"My experience is also that Pepe's is much more variable than it was when the previous generation was running it and before its expansion, but I have had some remarkably good pizza there recently...."
IMO, I strongly feel that product AND consistency is what makes a great pizzeria. Most pizzerias, either because of lack of ingredient quality, lack of skill sets by the pizzamakers and/or lack of passion are not even capable of making a great pizza to begin with.
A "great" pizzeria is capable of making a great pizza and is driven to get as close to that greatness as often as possible.....which is most of the time.
It sounds like Pepe's is in the process of falling, or has already fallen from greatness, even if it can still crank out a great pizza from time to time. That's really sad to this pizza lover and a situation that hopefully will right itself sooner than later.
Adam, the pic of the Sally's pizzas look delicious BTW. I need to get to New Haven ASAP! --K
Dear Slice: 'Heading to NYC, and Pepe's in New Haven'
@gustoct: Point noted. I'll have to try Pepe's next time I'm in New Haven to see how the crust fares again. Now that I know how easy/quick it is to get to with a Zipcar, that should be soon.
Just called to verify with Zuppardi's Apizza: They use a gas-fired oven. No coal.
Dear Slice: 'Heading to NYC, and Pepe's in New Haven'
As a New Haven whose exposure goes back 47 years and who simply won't put up with the treatment at Sally's, I have mainly frequented Pepe's with occasional detours at Modern (as well as other places not as good and some really great ones, alas no longer with us). My experience is also that Pepe's is much more variable than it was when the previous generation was running it and before its expansion, but I have had some remarkably good pizza there recently and disagree with Ed's verdict (of course, I didn't have the pies he had). You get superb pizza more often than not and I haven't had a BAD one. My experience with the Fairfield location has actually been quite good, but I haven't tried the others.
I'll have to try Zuppardi's in West Havenm. Do they have a coal oven?
Dear Slice: 'Heading to NYC, and Pepe's in New Haven'
@jwardell: Went to the Pepe's on Wooster. The big one, not The Spot. We ordered a clam pie and a sausage/mozzarella pie. My main complaint was with the ABSOLUTE TOUGHNESS of the crust. OMG. Jawache after trying a slice of each. Even if it had the most flavorful plain sauce/grated cheese, I'd still have an issue with the crust. Tell me how ordering a plain pie is going to change the crust situation and I may reconsider my assessment on further review.
Dear Slice: 'Heading to NYC, and Pepe's in New Haven'
How can you diss Pepes when you didn't order a plainchees pie to compare it to the others?
I also wonder if you wen to one of its satellite locations which of course are nowhere near the original.
Also head into Reginas in boston (again, the original north end location), get a plain cheese well done.
Dear Slice: 'Heading to NYC, and Pepe's in New Haven'
We're pretty much with you, Adam. I like Sally's best overall, Lil digs Modern's tomato pie, but Sally's mozz. We agree that Pepe's is third. Still, we'd be happy with any of the three on any given day.
Dear Slice: 'Heading to NYC, and Pepe's in New Haven'
A few weeks ago, I stopped at Sally's while driving back from Boston to NYC, around 8pm on a Wednesday night. It was about half-full. The service was friendly, and not unpleasant. But the pizza... was superb. For two of us, we got a medium pie with mozzarella, and a medium eggplant parmesan pie (it was a special). Both were exceptionally delicious--if they have the eggplant pie, definitely get it--it's the best eggplant pizza you'll ever eat.
Meat Lite: Black Beans and Rice, My Way
You shouldn't add salt immediately, but one hour through the cooking process, it's important to lightly season. Finish seasoning at the end of cooking.
1 kg black beans
8 liters water
2 tbsp kosher salt
2 sprigs epazote
Clean and wash beans. Put them in a large pot and cover with cold water twice the bean depth. Bring to a fast boil (cover on pot). Take off cover when you have reached a boil. Do not stir at all - they will surface by themselves. When they surface, add the remainder of cold water. Bring to a boil again. Cover and cook over a low flame. In 1 hour, add the salt and epazote. Again, do not stir. When the beans have boiled for 2 hours, remove cover and taste a few for tenderness. If they are easily mushed by squeezing them between your tongue and gums, (no teeth) then they are done. If not, boil another 30 minutes and try again. The older the beans, the longer they will need to cook.
Meat Lite: Black Beans and Rice, My Way
I wrote a recipe for beans with chili and beer:
http://cantaloupealone.blogspot.com/2009/10/black.html
I have learned, from a Mexican cookbook, that you should not add salt while cooking black beans. This alone has made all of my pots of beans taste smooth and velvety without pre-soaking. Also locating a source of beans that are not really ancient or turns-over quickly(like at a latin grocery store) or by getting them from a local farm: http://www.cporganics.com/live/
Meat Lite: Black Beans and Rice, My Way
Sounds like a good recipe. You should all look at some authentic black bean recipes from south Mexico, particularly the Yucatan. They use this herb called Epazote, which adds flavor and reduces the gaseousness of black beans, in particular. Epazote is indispensible to people who cook black beans on a regular basis, however it's only good in it's fresh form. so if you like to garden and you enjoy black beans, you should buy some seeds and start growing. Epazote pairs with almost all traditional Mexican ingredients and you can even put a few leaves on your next quesadilla for some good flavor.
Meat Lite: Black Beans and Rice, My Way
Hi, @all, sorry if this part isn't perfectly clear.
Start the bean cooking process by putting the beans (and the water and the chorizo) in a Dutch oven on a stovetop burner over high heat and bring it to a rolling boil.
Once this vigorous boil has been achieved, kill the heat on the burner, lid the beans/water/chorizo and then transfer the pot to your preheated 250 oven.
Bringing them to a boil kick starts the softening/cooking process. Again, I'm really sorry if that wasn't clear. I really want people to try this. As Tara can attest, I really have been dogged by this bean cooking problem for years. I have been obsessed with getting them exactly right. And this is what has done it for me. It's amazing how effective the gradual cool down in the oven is at finishing the beans so they are perfectly tender but not broken or mushy.
So please try--and ask other questions if you have them!
Meat Lite: Black Beans and Rice, My Way
irishnyc & tara - bring to a boil and then immediately transfer to the preheated oven. cook in the oven until done - at least one hour. similar to braising where you would brown the meat first, you are starting the cooking on the higher, direct heat of the burner before switching to the more even heat of the oven.
Meat Lite: Black Beans and Rice, My Way
irishnyc, I think Joy is recommending boiling the beans until done to your taste, taking them off the stovetop and moving them to a preheated 250 degree oven. Turn the oven temp off and let the beans cool completely as the oven does, too. So you boil to cook first and then place in a hot, but off (cooling) oven to finish.
Meat Lite: Black Beans and Rice, My Way
Maybe I'm brain dead, but I'm not understanding bringing the beans to a boil after heating the oven to 250. Are you boiling them in the oven?
Meat Lite: Black Beans and Rice, My Way
Thanks Robin! And I'm sorry for the typo, Serious Eaters. Thanks for letting us know so that it could be fixed.
Meat Lite: Black Beans and Rice, My Way
@everyone: I updated step #1 with this info: "cover the beans with cold water by about 2 inches"
Meat Lite: Black Beans and Rice, My Way
Black beans and rice are my favorite meal (see earlier thread today about what we could eat for 30 days). Black beans, onions, rice, orange zest or oil, lemon juice, hot sauce. topped with sour cream. Simple and oh so good.
I'll try your method of cooking the beans.
Meat Lite: Black Beans and Rice, My Way
Looks like a fantastic recipe, I love me some black beans and rice (with a side of fried yucca).
Cook the Book: 'The Pioneer Woman Cooks'
Hard to choose. I started out in food blog land with I Was Just Hungry.
Cook the Book: 'The Pioneer Woman Cooks'
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Cook the Book: 'The Pioneer Woman Cooks'
Divine Caroline is one of my favs
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I'm astounded by the undeserved dis of Pepe's clam pie. It was only a few weeks ago that my food writer friend and I drove up to NH with the specific intention of eating that very pizza. We even called ahead to make sure Pepe's had a clam pie that day since we were disappointed last time around when no clams were to be had. We arrived about 3pm. Not much of a wait at that time of day. We were seated almost as soon as we walked through the door. We ordered our prey. It came to the table large, hot, redolent of garlic and chopped fresh salty succulent clams. A little sprinkling of cheese (not a no-no in this instance) The crust was perfect. Chewy, crisp and light. Not a bit doughy or tough. The pie was, in a word, perfection and I will defend it to the death. To paraphrase a well-respected, former contender for the vice presidency of the United States-- I have had Pepe's clam pie and Lombardy's you are no Pepe's.