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From Serious Eats: New York

Does the World Need More Fancy-Pants French Restaurants?

Although phrased as a question, apparently you have already answered it in the negative. A phrase like "fancy-pants" doesn't leave much doubt about where you stand on the issue—practically implying that such a restaurant could never be worthwhile. (Has anyone ever used the phrase "fancy-pants" about something they liked?)

That's a pity. No one denies that the restaurant industry has been jettisoning formality over the last few decades. But many of the city's luxury restaurants are doing well: just try getting a last-minute prime-time table at Per Se, Daniel, Jean Georges, or Le Bernardin. And it's not just "grand dames" either. The Modern and Gordon Ramsay are fairly new and doing good business, even if the critics largely dissed them.

So I would conclude that there is indeed demand for such places, which is why restauranteurs continue to open them. Ducasse, after all, is a business man (as are most restauranteurs). He opens what he believes will attract customers. Obviously, he is limited by his experience. Ducasse could no more open Babbo than Mario Batali could open Adour.

Does New York "need" Adour? Well, it's not as if people were beating down Ducasse's door. But no one demanded Momofuku Ssam Bar either. It's what Chang wanted to do, and it worked. Last I checked, Chang isn't running Momofuku as a charity, however much heart and soul may have gne into it. It's a business for him, too.

Just because Adour caters to a certain type of luxury, does not mean it lacks heart and soul. The phrasing of your question clearly suggests that this type of restaurant doesn't appeal to you. But why don't you taste the food first, instead of deciding in advance that restaurants that happen to cater to a luxury clientele have no place in New York.

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From Serious Eats: New York

Does the World Need More Fancy-Pants French Restaurants?

Although phrased as a question, apparently you have already answered it in the negative. A phrase like "fancy-pants" doesn't leave much doubt about where you stand on the issue—practically implying that such a restaurant could never be worthwhile. (Has anyone ever used the phrase "fancy-pants" about something they liked?)

That's a pity. No one denies that the restaurant industry has been jettisoning formality over the last few decades. But many of the city's luxury restaurants are doing well: just try getting a last-minute prime-time table at Per Se, Daniel, Jean Georges, or Le Bernardin. And it's not just "grand dames" either. The Modern and Gordon Ramsay are fairly new and doing good business, even if the critics largely dissed them.

So I would conclude that there is indeed demand for such places, which is why restauranteurs continue to open them. Ducasse, after all, is a business man (as are most restauranteurs). He opens what he believes will attract customers. Obviously, he is limited by his experience. Ducasse could no more open Babbo than Mario Batali could open Adour.

Does New York "need" Adour? Well, it's not as if people were beating down Ducasse's door. But no one demanded Momofuku Ssam Bar either. It's what Chang wanted to do, and it worked. Last I checked, Chang isn't running Momofuku as a charity, however much heart and soul may have gne into it. It's a business for him, too.

Just because Adour caters to a certain type of luxury, does not mean it lacks heart and soul. The phrasing of your question clearly suggests that this type of restaurant doesn't appeal to you. But why don't you taste the food first, instead of deciding in advance that restaurants that happen to cater to a luxury clientele have no place in New York.

From Serious Eats: New York

Does the World Need More Fancy-Pants French Restaurants?

"
"Fancy pants French restaurants" - Fancy pants?? This sounds like it comes from someone with a limited vocabulary, I am sure other words could have expressed his feelings. Well anyway, yes there will eternally be a need for these restaurants, the chefs are creators, artists, always researching for tastes & beauty in their presentations. Why not do away with sculpters, painters, architects? Dress up to show respect for the reservations that you have taken with a great chef, use it as a celebration & the senses. it's so important.

From Serious Eats: New York

Does the World Need More Fancy-Pants French Restaurants?

Well, I'm not agree with you articule,when you said why nyc need another "french restaurant" well let me tell you, I think when Mr Ducasse opened ADNY he wanted to offer to nyc something unique never seen before with quality and details many details... diferent types of knives to give you an example for our comfort,but when you see that peopple here don't used both hands on the table just one almost "never used a knive to do anything" just the fork to cut even the meat have you notice? so offcourse you don't like does details and the superb food that was executed by an incredible Chef call Didier Elena,perhaps the only way to discover the beuty of "fine dining" is when you travel to France or any part in Europe and expirience the magic of a real restaurant 3,2 ,1 michelin you'll notice the diference that the happiness of the costumer is first, you will never compare a 4star nyc restaurant to a 3 michelin in Europe. Mr Ducasse mistake perhaps was that nyc was never ready for him and never will....So personally I'm happy that he is back.It is sad to go to any restaurant hopping to have a great expirience here in nyc and you expend big bucks for a good food but the service is poor ,you feel rush all the time ,the restaurant only cares to turn the tables as many times possible not about you .
So tell me are we serius eaters?
The reality is we are not ready to be seated with the grown ups table yet !!!! untill then Mc Donalds will be our hero.

From Serious Eats: New York

Does the World Need More Fancy-Pants French Restaurants?

Yes, you do. For an out-of-your-country person like me, who loves to eat and don't have the time to get reservations months ago, it makes it easier to have options. I wanted to go to Jean-Georges in NYC earlier this year, but couldn't get a reservation, so I was told about Mercer's Kitchen (where I had a lovely meal) and then I finally got to eat at Jean-Georges, not in NYC but in Shanghai few days ago.

From Serious Eats: New York

Does the World Need More Fancy-Pants French Restaurants?

Yes, we need more fancy-pants French restaurants, at least here in the Midwest. In fact, there is a drug front furniture store across the street from my house that would be a great spot. Or the empty building a block down. Or the little grocery across the street that sells drug supplies.

But really, maybe we don't need more fancy-pants ones, we have enough here in Mpls, but a couple more would be good for me. More places to eat.

From Serious Eats: New York

Does the World Need More Fancy-Pants French Restaurants?

The word I was searching for and couldn't find in my previous post was stuffy. If Adour feels as stuffy as Ducasse's previous restaurant that will be a problem for me and lots of folks.

From Serious Eats: New York

Does the World Need More Fancy-Pants French Restaurants?

I've eaten very well at Ducasse's former digs at the Essex House. I have nothing against him personally. I plan on eating at Adour. I just think he might still be out of step in terms of what New Yorkers want. We'll see. Personally I would love to see him succeed.

From Serious Eats: New York

Does the World Need More Fancy-Pants French Restaurants?

Well, in all fairness, Alain Ducasse did have 3 Michelin stars for his restaurant in the Essex House when the Guide Michelin was first published fro NYC in 2006. Everyone of course suggested that was the end of his reign in NYC. So good for him to make a return. I hope that Benoit is not quite so stuffy but I fear Adour will be, despite the trend in Manhattan away from old-school French restaurants.

From Serious Eats: New York

Does the World Need More Fancy-Pants French Restaurants?

Sure, New York will take any kind of restaurants it can get, as long as the quality's there. If the place is good, it should be welcomed. I love restaurants that make me comfortable while I enjoy great food(the places you mentioned are favorites of mine), but sometimes I like to go to someplace that is trying to elevate the experience. If there's room in NYC for every ethnic food under the sun, every goofy gimmick, and every restaurant that one large orange-clogged, red-headed Italian man and his apostles can dream up, I see no reason why we shouldn't welcome something more elegant and theatrical. Even as a casual New Yorker I don't think that the Rolling Stones are an appropriate soundtrack for every meal.

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