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nycpunk1

Ask The Food Lab: Do I Need To Use Kosher Salt?

I feel like table salt is useful for people who bake with it and for people who have a cherished collection of older recipes that assume it. Otherwise, I kind of scratch my head when people wonder why you need kosher or sea salt. It just seems like a backwards question.

I have a big box of kosher salt for cooking and sea salt for the table. Somewhere I have fancy finishing salts that don't get used unless I've tricked a lovely lady into joining me for dinner. "I eat like this every night, honest. And all of my shirts are this clean...."

Mexican Mashups?

Pub down the road from me has special menus on Wed nights. This month is French Mexican fusion: http://magounssaloon.com/french-mexican-fusion-wednesday-menu/

A mix of obvious (Duck confit tacos) and interesting (Coq au vin enchilada).

Valentine's Day: Where to Take a Date to Eat in Boston

Someone should write a short story called "What We Talk About When We Talk About Boston".

If someone ranking "Boston" restaurants or bars means only the City of Boston, they will tell you. Otherwise it is assumed they are including at least Brookline, Cambridge, and Somerville (in practice, these tend to replace Charlestown and East Boston. Life isn't fair).

Ask The Food Lab: What The Heck is Confit?

"Confit is to deep fat frying what grilling is to barbecue. Low and slow versus fast and furious."

Shouldn't it be Confit:deep fat frying::barbecue:grilling? I think one of your pairs is the wrong way round.

Sauced: Tomato Gravy

You have no idea how confusing this is to people from Southern New England. I'd just successfully compartmentalized gravy-gravy and pasta-gravy, and now you tell me there's tomato gravy-gravy?

I guess it'll be Bolognese for breakfast and Pancake Suppers this week. I need time to process.

Keep it Simple: 20 Three-Ingredient Cocktails To Make At Home

I'd love to see something a little different-- stock a decent home bar* in the office, buy one nice liqueur for the "party", and invite some awesome NYC bartenders to MacGuyver a drink recipe based on what you have and what they can buy at the closest bodega.

Picking up a bottle of Cynar or Amer Picon while stocking up on fresh mixers is a much more doable party option for most people than making sure you have 30 different bottles of liquor and bitters on hand. I also think it'd make a more fun cocktail party. My hope would be that the bartenders get into it and you wind up with a drink to suit every palate. Vodka drinkers included. [Don't worry, we can make fun of them later at the after party.]

*A decent home cocktail bar might have a bottle each of Bourbon, Rye, Light and Dark Rums, Tequila, Vodka, Angostura and Orange Bitters, Cointreau, Campari, Sweet and Dry Vermouth, sparkling wine, and a cheap brandy you meant to use for eggnog that someone found behind the punch bowl in the liquor cabinet.

Seriously Delicious Holiday Giveaway: La Quercia's Pork Belly Heaven Package

I found a super-explicit carbonara recipe in a bargain bin cookbook that broke all my mistakes down for me (No more scrambled egg pasta!). Pancetta consumption is up considerably in my hosue. Also a big fan of bacony butternut squash soup.

Crispy is the key in my book--done right you end up with these super soft pillows surrounded by a thin layer of crunchy perfection. When I can get that balance right every time, I will immediately gain 10 lbs.

Daily Slice: Lahmacun in Istanbul

I thought these were best eaten rolled around some greens and a squirt of lemon juice. Looks like tiny ultra-thrin flatbread pizzas when I get the box from the Armenian bakery, but the final product as eaten bears no resemblance to a pizza at all. Maybe the Turks eat it like pizza and the Armenians roll it up like a wrap?

Gadgets: Ball FreshTECH Automatic Jam & Jelly Maker

How precise is precise, and what's the temp range? I can see this actually being worth a look if it functions as a more precise slow cooker with added stirring. Coming home to perfect sauces like I can come home to a pot of chili is worth a lot more to me than jams. The other use I can think of is making custard for ice cream at the exact right temp-- no more scrambled egg vanilla!

This Is What Hippie Pizza Looks Like

Everyone involved in this monstrosity needs to have their pizza card revoked. You can eat pizza again when you've had time to think about what you've done.

13 Great Roast Beef Sandwiches Around Boston

@ Kenji - I grew up on the South Coast, but my mom's family is old school Salem and Beverly. Roast beef could mean the Sunday carvery type deal-- an open faced sandwich with thick cut roast beef, au jus and a dollop of horseradish. Or it could mean a thin sliced RB sandwich topped with bbq sauce and cheese.

Or it could just be tough cold cuts on a room temp roll with a slice of American cheese. That last option was some bait and switch BS, mom.

The point is, if you aren't on the North Shore, I think most New Englanders assume "roast beef" is the Sunday roast version, which is generally served with horseradish.

Providence: Harry's for Fine Burgers, Great Value

When I swing down to the area from Boston, this place has been added to the short list of "places I can walk into and see someone I know, guaranteed".

The MOAB during happy hour is one of the most absurd values around. They load it up with the onion strings, so you can steal half your burgers' strings for a side and skip the fries. That's a pretty amazing $3 snack. Or you could get 2 orders-- probably a good idea if you're gonna start drinking at 3pm.

Where Bartenders Drink in Boston

Didn't really need the unsubtle dig at Boston to start this off.

Also, the Independent and Tavern at the End of the World as dive bars? I get the "redefinition" of diveyness, but there's no way that word can possibly include those places. "Oh yeah, it's a real dive, aside from the cleanliness, the Belgian and German beers on tap, the cheese plate, the wine program, and the extensive cocktail list."

Five Guys Tops National Consumer Survey on Favorite Burger Chain

Frankly, In-N-Out is the most overrated restaurant on the face of the earth. Take away the mystique of the secret menu and it's just a pretty decent fast food burger joint.

There. I said it.

College Tours: Where to Eat Near Harvard and MIT, Cambridge

Please do not encourage Harvard students to leave their square. They need to progress through the hallowed stages of de-douchifying before being let into polite society. Once they reach Stage 4 (successfully hang out at Charlie's for a complete evening without annoying the hell out of the prickly staff), they are allowed to venture out to select Central Sq dives. Those who fail can stick to Harvard and Davis Sq bars or take a taxi across the river.

Cocktails On Tap: What Are Your Thoughts?

When chefs first started pulling perfectly medium-rare steaks out of a sous vide rig, they generally did so from a closed kitchen. People ate delicious steak and loved it, because they had no idea it had spent most of the evening vacuum-packed in a water circulator. If they had, how many would have felt cheated?

Bartenders are at a distinct disadvantage here, because the traditionalists get to see them tap the Negroni keg. Bias comes into play with a vengeance. The purists taste the off flavors they expect, while other imbibers will rave about how good their drink was due to the novelty. You can show them in a blind taste test that they can't actually taste the difference, but they'll still insist that they can.

There are going to be some drinks that benefit from a mellowing period, whether in a barrel or in a keg. Others will lose a bit of oomph or complexity. Most will probably wind up the same, as long as they're made by someone who knows what they're doing. I'm pretty sure that bars where people care about these things will tend to have good stuff in the taps. Bars that just want your money will continue to serve you crap at outrageous prices.

The Food Lab: How to Grill a Whole Chicken

Oh, Paul. If only you could embrace all the weird awesomeness you've given us instead of pretending you've always been that hack from Wings. People would totally love you just as much as John if they knew you were the one making the crazy tape loops and "grandpa music".

You could have been a Grizzly, Paul. You could have been a Polar bear. Instead you're a god-damned koala. Sure, you're the "cute one", but you aren't even a real frickin' bear.

Sigh. Now I've gone and ruined my day. At least there's gonna be some chicken later.

Win Pop Chart Lab's Triple Distilled Diagram of Alcohols Poster

This is going to look bad....

Whisk(e)ys:
Powers
The Famous Grouse
Buffalo Trace
Old Rittenhouse 100
The good Scotch

Gins:
Plymouth
Beefeater 24
Hendricks
Bombay Sapphire

Tequilas:
Gran Centenario Reposado
Don Julio

Rums:
Goslings
Ron Brugal

Vodka:
Ketel One
Smirnoff
Stoli Raz

Brandy:
Laird's Applejack
XO brandy

Liqueurs/Herbals/Amaros:
Cointreau
Campari
Canton
Creme de Violette
Luxardo
St Germain
Sweet and Dry Vermouth

Bitters:
Angostura
Peychauds
Fee Brothers Orange
Bittermans Xocolatl

Enameled Cast Iron: A College Freshman's Dilemma

Get a Lodge cast iron skillet and a Tramontina dutch oven. Cheap, economical, sturdy.

1) Your roommates aren't going to take great care of your stuff no matter what "ground rules" you set. It's not necessarily that they're jerks. They might have zero kitchen knowledge.

I mean zero.

Not "my housemate Jeff makes Carbonara with cream! Haha!" zero.
"Jeff left a small pot on the stove for an hour, because he thought that's how long it takes to boil a cup of water for EasyMac," zero.

Take the advice of people who've been there. Leave the nice stuff at home.

2) No one likes that kid who moves into a cramped student apartment and takes over half the kitchen cabinets. Especially if the stuff comes with a bunch of rules. If you want to bring something nice, make it a knife or other small item. That way you have your nice thing, but more timid (or brutal) cooks have room for their cheapo gear.

Maybe your roommates are ALL avid cooks and aspiring chefs. In that case, great, you can bring the good stuff to school after winter break or next year.

Grilling Smackdown: Lump Charcoal vs. Briquettes

If you compare good lump to good briquettes, a lot of the virulent anti-briquette sentiment disappears. There's a higher floor for lump products-- people looking for truly crap charcoal are always going to buy briquettes, if only because that's what they grew up using. So there's a lot of terrible "easy light" or mystery chemical briquettes out there, but not a lot of low-end lump charcoal. Compare like to like and it starts looking more even.

Monte's in Lynn, MA, or, Why Don't We See More Chopped Onion Slices?

Bar pie is awesome, and I'm glad Kenji is educating people at this crucial time of the year. Every September, thousands of unsuspecting freshmen from the Tri-State area fall victim to bad pizza in college towns across the Northeast.

This is New England, not New York or New Jersey. That means unless you're getting a pie somewhere legendary, you should be eating bar pie, tomato pie from a bakery, or something out of the oven of an Italian grandmother.

Your other option is to get so drunk you no longer care about your tastebuds or your health. This is why there are so many broken bottles and sloppy students strewn across college towns. It's not that students are irresponsible drinkers. They have to be that drunk-- they're eating Greek pizza later.

Saugus, MA: Pu Pu Platters, Wings, and Scorpion Bowls at Kowloon

Kowloon is everything wrong with suburban Massachusetts rolled into one giant cavern of utter ridiculousness, which somehow makes it all awesome. It belongs to a weird alternative universe where everyone gets along, and where it's not at all crazy to decorate your restaurant by creating an indoor system of lakes capable of watering several acres of desert. As long as you continue the nautical theme at completely random intervals.

Also, sometimes people want Asian(ish) food, but they can't agree on whether to go out for Cantonese, Szechuan, sushi, Thai, or just screw it and get some chicken fingers and fries. You should solve this problem by putting all of them on your menu! Makes perfect sense.

Have You Tried Bottled Cocktails?

I see a drunken Food Lab (Drinks Lab?) waiting to happen! Assuming the pre-mixed drinks are made daily (so no spoilage of ingredients), bottled and chilled cocktails are simply replacing the icing of a cocktail shaker with the large-scale chilling of a fridge. What's missing is the water that gets melted into the drink while it is shaken or stirred. I think we can fix this oversight.

Given an optimal shaking time x and the force of the shaking held constant, you should be able to pretty accurately predict the water released from ice of a given shape, size, and temperature-- just weigh the ice before it goes in the shaker and then weigh what's left after straining the drink. If you add that amount of water to the bottled mix, shouldn't cocktails chilled to the same temperature taste the same, regardless of whether they are bottled or made to order?

I assume these will be poured into the appropriate glass-- a man gesturing with his Negroni in a soda bottle simply does not have the same gravitas....

Eight Styles to Add to Your Pizza Lexicon

@Hawk Krall

@imwalkin is making my exact point. I've had a small but significant sampling of each of these styles, and there is really nothing particularly different about Philadelphia tomato pies that I can see. Trenton I have not had much experience with, but I gather it has more claim to being an outlier.

"Bakery Pizza" doesn't distinguish between these tomato pies and the cheese-driven concoctions Meredith pointed out (I view these as more "cafeteria" pies, but I digress). I think Tomato Pie kinda sums it up, and maybe throw in Trenton Tomato Pie if you're gonna make a distinction.

Eight Styles to Add to Your Pizza Lexicon

@Meredith Smith - You are way off geographically. Pizza strips, party pizza, bakery pizza-- whatever you want to call it, its native habitat is Rhode Island and the South Coast of Mass-- the forgotten part of the hand between the wrist of Central Mass, the palm of the South Shore, and the fingers of Cape Cod.

Bakery pizza doesn't come with cheese at all usually-- we always had the grated cheese next to the box so people could add their own. Pretty sure you could get a sprinkle at the bakery, too.

Skillet/broiler pizza technique-- supersize it?

Home sick and about to cook breakfast in one of my cast-iron skillets. Last night we used it to make pizza via the skillet/broiler technique. Actually, we made about 5 pizzas. They were delicious, but tiny.

Got me thinking-- what about those cast-iron griddles you put over 2 gas burners? You know the ones-- they have grooves on one side and are flat on the other.

Does anyone know any reason these things shouldn't go in the broiler? I'm thinking I could make a much bigger oblong pizza (a la Sally's or Pepe's). Cast-iron is cast-iron, right? Or am I missing something (like a coating, etc?)

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