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Cook the Book: 'New Classic Family Dinners'
Traditional erbsensuppe -- that is, split pea soup with ham hock. Generous dash of pepper, faint scent of cookies wafting from oven, loved ones lounging in sweaters: utter contentment.
Cook the Book: 'Gourmet Today'
My first was one that I picked up on whim off a library resale bookshelf during high school: Alfred Portale's Twelve Seasons Cookbook. I don't think I'd ever attempted more than painfully simple dishes before that(cinnamon toast, popcorn) and recipes always seemed like more miniscule gibberish than was worth following, but as I looked at the recipes in this book something in my brain clicked and the instructions suddenly seemed more than manageable (if the ingredients were sometimes moderately obscure and the photo presentation mildly intimidating).
And the rest, as they say...
Cook the Book: 'Serious Barbecue' by Adam Perry Lang
Greatest grilling success story? Sea bass Italian-style, so fresh it continued twitching once touched by the heat (despite being wholly gutted and smothered in sea salt, olive oil, herbs). Unfortunately, this wasn't "serious" barbecue - I technically broiled it in the oven. I've been itching to try recipes on an open grill, though. Hardcore grill lines and everything.
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Burgers in Taiwan: A Comedy of Errors
Posted by Lee Anne Shaffer, November 5, 2009 at 10:00 AM
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Recent Comments | Response to Comments
Burgers in Taiwan: A Comedy of Errors
@Eating The Road: I did end up trying a MOS shogayaki rice burger; China Airlines served them for breakfast during my flight back to the U.S. (see photo above) I decided against commenting on the burger itself, though, since after having been refrigerated and reheated as airplane food it was clearly not up to normal MOS standards. Like you, I've also heard many great things about MOS burgers - the next time I find myself in Asia, I'd be happy to write off my two experiences as unusual and give MOS another try.
@haappyhed: Thanks! My relationship with Taiwan is similar to yours - my mother was born in Taiwan and I spent many a childhood summer, as well as part of elementary school, in Taipei. As a rule, whenever I return for a visit, every square micrometer of stomach space is reserved for my grandparents' home cooking, tropical fruit, and Taiwanese street food... so this tour was a marked departure from my norm, instigated primarily by my encounter with those absurd mini-burgers.
I wish I'd known better than to try MOS' regular hamburger - from the sound of it, almost anything else on the menu would have been more satisfying - but at the time I intentionally ordered what an uninformed, displaced American might when searching for a hamburger that tastes like home. Given my preference for traditional Taiwanese food, my recent two-week visit was far too brief to accommodate a truly exhaustive burger roundup (I'm not a food writer and this trip was personal in nature), but in the future it might be interesting to seek out distinctively Asian re-conceptions of the burger.
@kkyoung: You're right, it's often foolish to expect familiar food to be prepared authentically in a foreign country. I was raised on homestyle Chinese cooking and if I went into a Panda Express here in the U.S. expecting similar, my soul would probably die a little.
Reasonable or no, for the purposes of this review I deliberately assumed the mindset of a homesick American looking for a regular burger. People who order Asian-style burgers expect to taste something interesting and unfamiliar, but a customer who orders a hamburger probably just wants a hamburger. Whereas the 3-inch mini-burgers don't pretend to be traditional and MOS rice burgers are a deliberate and successful departure from the norm, I'm pretty sure Mary's does attempt to make an "American" style burger, and when MOS offers an apparently standard "Hamburger" alongside its more imaginative entrées, I think it's fair to examine it according to Western standards.
I'll know better next time, though. ;)
Cook the Book: 'New Classic Family Dinners'
Traditional erbsensuppe -- that is, split pea soup with ham hock. Generous dash of pepper, faint scent of cookies wafting from oven, loved ones lounging in sweaters: utter contentment.
Cook the Book: 'Gourmet Today'
My first was one that I picked up on whim off a library resale bookshelf during high school: Alfred Portale's Twelve Seasons Cookbook. I don't think I'd ever attempted more than painfully simple dishes before that(cinnamon toast, popcorn) and recipes always seemed like more miniscule gibberish than was worth following, but as I looked at the recipes in this book something in my brain clicked and the instructions suddenly seemed more than manageable (if the ingredients were sometimes moderately obscure and the photo presentation mildly intimidating).
And the rest, as they say...
Cook the Book: 'Serious Barbecue' by Adam Perry Lang
Greatest grilling success story? Sea bass Italian-style, so fresh it continued twitching once touched by the heat (despite being wholly gutted and smothered in sea salt, olive oil, herbs). Unfortunately, this wasn't "serious" barbecue - I technically broiled it in the oven. I've been itching to try recipes on an open grill, though. Hardcore grill lines and everything.
In Videos: Ruth Reichl Goes Back to Restaurant Reviewing, 'Undercover'
Inimitably, endearingly silly. :)
Snapshots from Italy: Artisan Gelato at Bologna's Cremeria Funivia
I loved Gelateria Gianni and La Sorbetteria Castiglione, but if this one's even better..... MUST RETURN TO BOLOGNA, STAT.
Shanghai's Wujiang Snack Street to Be Demolished at Year's End
That's absolutely terrible. I know there's much to be said for progress, but it's a shame to raze yet another a historic neighborhood when these are becoming few and far between in modern Chinese cities.
Is Artisanal, Handmade Food Always Better?
Good cooking (id est, processing raw food in any way) is partially skill, partially art. Anyone can pick up a paintbrush, smother a canvas with gunk, and try to pass it off as art - but serious art enthusiasts would instantly be able to distinguish between genius and garbage. And the serious art enthusiast, if asked to do something with that same paintbrush and canvas, would probably approach the task mindful of the way it might be received by other enthusiasts.
Which is why it's probably safer to buy fresh produce from serious growers but artisanal food from fellow serious eaters. Or to ask for a taste before purchase, if at all possible, unless it really is art you're buying.
Frying Pizza (and Other Things) in Duck Fat
As one who has never used the stuff, what ARE the usual things one would fry in duck fat? I immediately thought of gnocchi, but that's only because Kathy recently mentioned doing so.
Cook the Book: 'Kneadlessly Simple'
I like making pumpkin bread and banana bread because I haven't yet gotten the guts to touch yeast, but all these comments are inspiring...
Cook the Book: 'On the Line'
Most of us seem to have the right idea - good seafood shouldn't be overly fussed with. Depending on what we're talking about, I generally like my seafood steamed, grilled, baked, lightly sautéed, or raw. I am admittedly very fond, though, of my Chinese grandfather's "hong shao yu," or "Red Braised Fish," which is first marinated, then fried, and finally simmered in soy sauce and spices.
Weekend Book Giveaway: 'American Cheeses'
Gotta give my props to Cowgirl Creamery's Mt. Tam as well - but I'll definitely have to check out some of those listed above. We're gradually getting access to these down in Arizona, but not quickly enough!
Cook the Book: 'Into the Vietnamese Kitchen'
To cook more. I've been baking quite a bit recently, but still need to experiment at regular mealtimes.
Seriously Delicious Holiday Giveaway: Edible Chocolate Box from Charles Chocolates
I just made Dorie Greenspan/Pierre Herme's World Peace/Korova cookies - those are definitely in my top tier.
Seriously Delicious Holiday Giveaway: D'Artagnan Boneless Heritage Ham
An equal proportion of a strongish melted cheese.
Seriously Delicious Holiday Giveaway: Edible Chocolate Box from Charles Chocolates
Dark, rich chocolate mousse.
This Baby Loves Butter
A whole stick seems horribly unhealthy, but I readily admit to habitually cutting small chunks of pure butter to savor if it's already out for some socially legitimate purpose. And sometimes if I'm just craving a little bit of salty, cold richness that melts sweetly on the tongue.
Cook the Book: Jamie at Home
Really hot, hearty deep-dish pot pies.
Seriously Delicious Holiday Food Giveaway: Russ & Daughters
Still craving that lightly toasted bagel with lox and cream cheese. I'm going to have to find some substitute here in Phoenix...
Seriously Delicious Holiday Giveaway: Zingerman's Praise the Lard Gift Box
Ahh...the enormous array of prosciutto and thin slices of lard, sandwiched with hot-off-the-griddle flatbread made by my adopted grandparents, on a farm in the Emilia Romagna region of Italy.
The food (and wine) alone would've made it memorable, but what makes me smile is the memory of grandfather, who would not tolerate the sight of my hands empty nor my mouth unfilled, hand-selecting cuts of meat and pushing another sandwich into my hands as soon as I finished the first, admonishing all the while, "Mangia, maangia!"
Snapshots from the UK: Gordon Ramsay's Plane Food
@wunami: Hey, you could make a fortune on ebay. Never underestimate star power! Someone's already tempting the public with an envelope sent by Mr. Ramsay, apparently.
Seriously Delicious Holiday Giveaway: Edible Chocolate Box from Charles Chocolates
Dark chocolate mousse would hit the spot, right this moment...
Snapshots from the UK: Gordon Ramsay's Plane Food
AND an insulated zippered Gordon Ramsay lunch tote? Nearly reason enough to make another UK visit, stat!
Sullivan Street Bakery: New York's Best Bakery Keeps Rising
Oh, amen. I make cross-country pilgrimages to Jim Lahey's church of dough, and thanks to this post, another may be soon forthcoming. (Attn:Robyn!)
Cook the Book: 'New Classic Family Dinners'
Definitely meatloaf and mashed potatoes
Cook the Book: 'New Classic Family Dinners'
When it gets cool, the husband likes to make turkey chili and I make the honey cornbread. So good!
Cook the Book: 'New Classic Family Dinners'
Our fav meal is an oven roasted chicken with sides like green beans creamed potatoes and a nice dessert like cheese cake
Cook the Book: 'New Classic Family Dinners'
Deep fried breaded chicken breasts make with homemade super crunchy breadcrumbs :)
Cook the Book: 'New Classic Family Dinners'
Cold weather is chili time! Made with fresh tomatoes, chunks of steak and some diced habanero for a little extra kick. A big bowl of chili, caesar salad, and cheddary potato rolls are a truly memorable and satisfying meal.
Cook the Book: 'New Classic Family Dinners'
Mom's homemade shrimp creole night is a big family favorite year-round, followed by Mom's holiday time cookie bake-a-thon. Yum!
Cook the Book: 'New Classic Family Dinners'
A big bowl of steaming hot noodle soup!
Cook the Book: 'New Classic Family Dinners'
chicken and biscuits!!!!
Cook the Book: 'New Classic Family Dinners'
Old fashioned turkey dinner does it.
Cook the Book: 'New Classic Family Dinners'
I love my Mom's boiled chicken and a big bowl of soup she makes with the stock!
Cook the Book: 'New Classic Family Dinners'
Kielke and farmer sausage with "gravy" (aka cream sauce with onions). Oh thank goodness for Mennonite roots. If only I worked like a farmer to work it off.
Cook the Book: 'New Classic Family Dinners'
I love Ziti and galic bread! Delicious!
Cook the Book: 'New Classic Family Dinners'
Mom's Thanksgiving feast!
Burgers in Taiwan: A Comedy of Errors
I've tried MOS on a number of occasions throughout Thailand recently - yes, great rolls, even the light rice-bun style which should be glutenous, wasn't - it was light and beautifully bouncy. Unfortunately the burgers have been bland, mealy and completely unremarkable - especially given the more-elevated price (vs McD, for instance). Frankly, it's dumb to focus on burgers in a land so rich with good food; I can wait until I hit the US.
Cook the Book: 'New Classic Family Dinners'
Roast chicken with mashed potatoes!
Cook the Book: 'New Classic Family Dinners'
I love pot roast with roasted potatoes, onions, and carrots. YUM!
Cook the Book: 'New Classic Family Dinners'
Spaghetti and meatballs always goes over well here.
Cook the Book: 'New Classic Family Dinners'
My family would be happy if I'd make them chicken and dumplings at least once a week. (And it's so easy!)
Cook the Book: 'New Classic Family Dinners'
My family did roast chicken dinners every Sunday when I was growing up. Can't beat grandma's cooking!
Cook the Book: 'New Classic Family Dinners'
Spaghetti with meatballs and chunks of Italian sausage in a smooth garlicky red sauce, caesar salad with homemade garlic croutons, warm crusty Italian bread with butter, a nice barolo, and lemon cheesecake for dessert.
Cook the Book: 'New Classic Family Dinners'
fajitas, hands down.
Cook the Book: 'New Classic Family Dinners'
Layer sauerkraut in a casserole dish, place pork chops on top and season (I use cracked black pepper, garlic powder and smoked paprika), cover with lid or seal with foil, bake in 400 degree oven for 45 minutes. I like to make mashed potatoes with it, but have also just done steamed veggies on the side.
Cook the Book: 'New Classic Family Dinners'
Grandy's roast beef, carrots, and mashed potatoes
Cook the Book: 'New Classic Family Dinners'
Mom's from-the-Campbell's-can versions of Chicken a la King and Beef Stroganoff!
Cook the Book: 'New Classic Family Dinners'
Mom's homemade lasagna, bread, and apple pie.
Recent Posts
Burgers in Taiwan: A Comedy of Errors
Posted by Lee Anne Shaffer, November 5, 2009 at 10:00 AM
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About Lee Anne Shaffer
Website: http://www.flickr.com/photos/misoponia/
Location: Currently: NYC
About:
Favorite foods: Dark, leafy greens and mangosteens. Bacon. Caramelized fig.
Last bite on earth: Stick me in a vat of crisp, blood-red duroni cherries and I'll be carried off in bliss.

@Eating The Road: I did end up trying a MOS shogayaki rice burger; China Airlines served them for breakfast during my flight back to the U.S. (see photo above) I decided against commenting on the burger itself, though, since after having been refrigerated and reheated as airplane food it was clearly not up to normal MOS standards. Like you, I've also heard many great things about MOS burgers - the next time I find myself in Asia, I'd be happy to write off my two experiences as unusual and give MOS another try.
@haappyhed: Thanks! My relationship with Taiwan is similar to yours - my mother was born in Taiwan and I spent many a childhood summer, as well as part of elementary school, in Taipei. As a rule, whenever I return for a visit, every square micrometer of stomach space is reserved for my grandparents' home cooking, tropical fruit, and Taiwanese street food... so this tour was a marked departure from my norm, instigated primarily by my encounter with those absurd mini-burgers.
I wish I'd known better than to try MOS' regular hamburger - from the sound of it, almost anything else on the menu would have been more satisfying - but at the time I intentionally ordered what an uninformed, displaced American might when searching for a hamburger that tastes like home. Given my preference for traditional Taiwanese food, my recent two-week visit was far too brief to accommodate a truly exhaustive burger roundup (I'm not a food writer and this trip was personal in nature), but in the future it might be interesting to seek out distinctively Asian re-conceptions of the burger.
@kkyoung: You're right, it's often foolish to expect familiar food to be prepared authentically in a foreign country. I was raised on homestyle Chinese cooking and if I went into a Panda Express here in the U.S. expecting similar, my soul would probably die a little.
Reasonable or no, for the purposes of this review I deliberately assumed the mindset of a homesick American looking for a regular burger. People who order Asian-style burgers expect to taste something interesting and unfamiliar, but a customer who orders a hamburger probably just wants a hamburger. Whereas the 3-inch mini-burgers don't pretend to be traditional and MOS rice burgers are a deliberate and successful departure from the norm, I'm pretty sure Mary's does attempt to make an "American" style burger, and when MOS offers an apparently standard "Hamburger" alongside its more imaginative entrées, I think it's fair to examine it according to Western standards.
I'll know better next time, though. ;)