Profile

maggiesara

How to Make Almond Milk, How It Compares to Soy Milk

I use almond milk a fair amount. It's much lower in carbs than dairy milk (and I don't have the problem of wanting to swig the entire carton right out of the fridge, which I do with your standard 1%). It works great for, say, hot cocoa, and it also makes a fine bechamel, which is helpful for me when I'm making dinner for friends who keep Kosher. Don't love it in coffee, and don't want to drink it straight, but I do find it a very useful milk-substitute.

Top Chef: What It's Like to Be a Diner at the Taping

You know, I absolutely agree that Padma does not come across as Princess Warmandfuzzy. But at the same time, the only thing worse that being stared at by hundreds of strangers with their little cellphone cameras going "click click click" would be having to make winning, ever-so-charming conversation with those strangers, during a 14-hour workday and in 110-degree heat. If she instituted the rules, I can't say I blame her.

The Vegan Experience, Day 11: Diversity Through Restriction

I think any regime that kicks us out of our food-ruts is likely to result in a more varied diet. I'm doing the opposite of Kenji; I've gone very seriously low-carb, which means stripping out all the starches that I'm used to basing meals around. I've discovered, happily, that I really like stir-fries and curries and similar sauce-y things on a bed of salad, particularly if that salad includes some really sturdy stuff like mustard greens. I've learned that mashed jerusalem artichokes and pureed celeriac make really nice beds for stews, rather than mashed potatoes. I've started roasting cauliflower and broccoli and kabocha squash to go next to my chicken. All in all, MANY more vegetables than I used to eat.

Marlow & Daughters Will Take Christmas Goose Orders

Actually, I hate to tell ya, but the goose wouldn't make Dickens proud; the bird that he orders up for the Cratchits' Christmas feast is a turkey -- specifically, an enormous turkey, as big as the urchin he hires to fetch it. Goose had previously been the bird of choice on England's Christmas tables, but "A Christmas Carol" was so influential that turkey supplanted it pretty much entirely. In fact, According to a recent piece in the New York Times, England's goose industry tanked as a result. And today, if you look at the food sections in various UK newspapers, they're full of discussions about the upcoming Christmas feast, and they all assume that turkey is the traditional centerpiece.

Whey Low -- anybody using this stuff?

I've been using Whey Low for several years -- so much so that I no longer keep sugar in the house. I can't stand any other sugar substitutes, Splenda very much included (blech!), but Whey Low, for me, tastes and functions exactly like sugar. That said, I'm not a big dessert-person, so I haven't been churning out batches of cookies and ice cream with the stuff. However, I regularly use it to make fruit compote, as an ingredient in Asian dishes, to make simple-syrup for sweetening iced tea (yes, it thickens exactly like sugar), in coleslaw, etc. And I have used it to make desserts, everything from very simple teacakes (where an "off" flavor would be very noticeable) to fancy-ass mousse-filled cakes, and nobody has ever detected a difference.

As to its caloric/glycemic load, all I can say is that I've taken off more than 50 pounds in the past year on a modified low-carb diet (i.e., higher in carbs than, say, Atkins, but lower than a standard low-fat/high-carb regime), and though I eat fruit with Whey Low just about every morning, my blood-sugar levels continue to drop. I don't think this would be the case if I were eating an equivalent amount of straight sugar. But as always, YMMV.

Emeril Still Alive at Food Network

What makes me sad about Emeril's quasi-departure is that his was one of the last shows on the network that actually involves, you know, cooking. I don't LIKE his cooking, and his relationship with the audience makes me a little queasy, but at least he does occasionally chop things up and apply heat to them and mix them with other things. From here on in it's just going to be increasing variations on the "Welcome to the Skittles factory" theme, and Sandra Lee on endless loop.

What Should Replace Roast Turkey as the National Thanksgiving Dish?

if you insist on a principally green dish, fried okra (though fried okra is more beige than green, now that I'm thinking about it).

Fried okra is conceptually green, and that's what counts.

Simply Cornbread

But you're talking about Southern cornbread; this is New England cornbread, which has just as venerable a history but is a different animal.

Calling all bakers: Looking to help the hungry this Thanksgiving?

Hey olddad, I would love some Hubig pies. Will you email me at either of the two email addies listed above, and we can talk logistics?
Thanks so much,
Maggiesara

Ed Levine's Semi-Serious, Semi-Homemade Thanksgiving

I gots no problem with the Semi-Homemade approach (so long as no "tablescapes" are involved), but warning: IME, Thomas Keller's chicken stock is so lightly flavored as to be uhhhh...highly reminiscent of water. Granted, I like my chicken stock to yell CHICKEN, but the one time I tried playing with Keller's stuff, I wound up reducing it by about half with some chicken bones retrieved from the freezer and the scrapings of onions and carrots and parsley.

Anna Pump Cookbooks- What happened there?

Speaking as a publisher, Jerzee Tomato, I'm afraid it's not that easy. But I certainly would love it if the books became available again.

Calling all bakers: Looking to help the hungry this Thanksgiving?

I meant to say, to anyone who might want to join the Pie Project: PLEASE don't worry if you're not the greatest pie-maker in the world: I'm certainly not. And I'm willing to bet that the pantry's clients will appreciate the pies' being (and looking) home-made, because they will so clearly be a gift from one normal human being to another -- more Thanksgiving, less corporate charity.

Calling all bakers: Looking to help the hungry this Thanksgiving?

Oh gosh, I have just been overwhelmed by the response here! And I'm thrilled. Here are the details, which I'll repeat in emails to all who wrote asking for specifics:

1. The pantry specifically requested fruit pies (rather than, say, pumpkin, though pecan would probably be ok), because they will have to sit out overnight, and we don't want any issues with custard going bad. Also, fruit pies are easier to cut.

2. Many of the pantry's clients work, so they stop off to get food in the morning, and they take it away to eat later in the day. Pieces of pie are difficult to pack into a paper bag, so I thought it would be helpful to have some of the pies be in the form of turnovers or pocket pies. People who would like to send pie from outside of NYC -- and THANK YOU!! -- might find it easier to send turnovers. Off the top of my head, I'd suggest baking them, wrapping them individually in bubble wrap, and putting them in a fairly sturdy box for overnight delivery. Please let me know if you'd like a recipe for turnovers -- or for pie, for that matter, that I bet most Serious Eaters have that covered.

3. My mom will be baking a couple of pies, but she has also volunteered her apartment as Pie Central. The plan is to collect all pies at her place by about 2 in the afternoon THE DAY BEFORE THANKSGIVING, at which point I'll pack them all up and get a car to take them over to the pantry. Since it's Mom, I'm really loathe to post her address on a public website. If you're having trouble getting through to my email address, you can try books at Felony and Mayhem dot com. Yes, you do have to spell out the "and."

Once again, thank you all so much! Happy though I am to be doing this, I was feeling a little faint at the thought of baking ALL those pies.

Anna Pump Cookbooks- What happened there?

I used to have Loaves and Fishes, got rid of it when I moved, and now I'd love to have a copy again, but used copies cost a fortune.

Lobster Cantonese in Manhattan or suburbs?

Lobster Cantonese is a classic Chinese-American dish of lobster in a sauce made with fermented black beans and ground pork. Sometimes you'll see "shrimp in lobster sauce" on old-school menus, and that's shrimp in the sauce that would otherwise be used for lobster. You're going to be most likely to find it at somewhat old-fashioned restaurants -- the ones that feature egg rolls and lo mein rather than soup dumplings and cold sesame noodles.

The Next Iron Chef: Pressure

Adam Roberts was talking last week about his realization of why this contest matters so much to the chefs in question -- so much more than it does to the wannabes on Top Chef. However, I think he got it wrong. It's not that losing -- failing to become The Next Iron Chef -- will cost the chefs so much in terms of respect and revenues at their various restaurants. It's that WINNING the gig -- becoming The Next Iron Chef -- offers so much potential for vastly, hugely increased recognition and paydays. Mario's appearances on "Iron Chef," for example, amount to one enormous PR campaign for his restaurants and cookbooks; the same is true for Bobby Flay and Morimoto. There isn't a publishing company or a restaurant in the world that could afford to buy that kind of TV exposure, and -- assuming the chef is both knowledgeable and charming -- there isn't a restaurant or cookbook that wouldn't benefit significantly.

Secrets of Chicken Soup

I'm a passionate fan of feet in chicken soup -- creates unbelievable body. Whole Foods does indeed carry organic feets (and sometimes backs as well -- another good addition), and Quattro Farms, the pheasant people at the US Greenmarket, have wonderful soup chickens. The only problem with them is that they have a TON of fat that should be removed ahead of time, but if you're smart and frugal and can channel your grandmother, you'll render it down and give yourself both a great cooking medium and (mmmm) cracklings.

Jessica Seinfeld and Missy Chase Lapine: 'Wrong, Wrong, Wrong'

Actually, I thought Sheraton was right on, particularly since, as she noted, the amount of spinach that actually gets consumed in the Deceptive Brownie is something like 1 teaspoon of puree. And I doubt the relationship of children and spinach has changed a lot since the 1960s.

I don't have a kid, so I'm full of hot air. But Laurie Colwin's approach -- make the vegetables taste good -- has always seemed very sensible to me. She points out, for example, that just about everyone likes fried things, and that kids will be more likely to eat carrot sticks or cucumber sticks if they have something delicious to dip them into.

People just pretend to actually love macaroons, right?

I love macarons -- love the intense flavor and the multiple textures. Don't much like macaroons, but then, I don't really like cookies.

Where to Find Macarons

FWIW, I'm not a fan of Payard's macarons. Too sweet, and (some flavors) chemical-tasting. NOT good.

The Best Jewish Delis: What's Your Favorite?

By me, french fries are not a staple of Jewish delis. They're certainly not echt deli fare along the lines of soup, pastrami and corned beef, chopped liver, pickles, salami-and-eggs. In fact, I don't think I've ever eaten or ordered french fries in a deli; if it's a good deli, the sandwiches are of a size that really doesn't cry out for a side dish. If you must add something to the line-up of judging criteria beyond the soups and meats, I nominate chopped liver. It's what my grandmother would have called A Nice Appetizer.

What do you pack for lunch?

Back in my office-worker days I used to make an enormous wok-full of stir-fried veggies (usually Barbara Tropp's recipe for Buddha's Delight -- yum!), and I'd pack that on top of freshly made brown rice. I like room-temp Chinese food, and the topping would keep the rice from getting chilled and nasty. For breakfast, I bought jalapeno corn muffins from Fred at the Union Square Greenmarket and froze them wrapped in tin foil. I'd stick one in the oven when I made my coffee, and retrieve it just as I was walking out the door; by the time I got to the office, it would be thawed and warm and the perfect temp for eating at my desk with my first cup of office-coffee.

Introduction to French Macarons

Where to buy good macarons (anywhere? ANYWHERE in the U.S.???) and how to make them (how to create the little "foot," how to give the "skin" just the right degree of tensile strength, how to add intense flavor without disrupting the delicate balance of dry ingredients to liquids) is the subject of MANY blog discussions.

Long Underappreciated, Cecilia Chiang Releases Charming Cookbook

Thank you so much for the Inness recommendation, Karen. That's exactly the kind of book that interests me -- I'm a huge Laura Shapiro fan.

Re the role of women, when I first started writing about China, about 15 years ago, one of the things that interested me a lot was that many of the CEOs I was meeting -- the people in charge of some of the country's largest companies -- were women. Coming from the U.S., this was incredible to me. Some time later I spent a long afternoon sitting out a Hong Kong rainstorm and yacking with a Chinese designer who had spent several years living in Canada, mostly in a Jewish neighborhood in Montreal. We were talking about why I, as a New York Jew, felt so oddly comfortable in China, and why he had felt so comfortable in a Jewish enclave, and one of the things we discussed was the traditional division of labor: In both Jewish and Chinese households, it was common for the wife to run the business while the husband spent his time in scholarly pursuits. Scholarship, rather than business, was where the status was, so the business -- the store, the restaurant -- was turned over to the women.

Long Underappreciated, Cecilia Chiang Releases Charming Cookbook

(laughing) I don't know about lots of knowledge, Jenn; I have lots of cookbooks, which is not at all the same thing. And actually, if you're starting out cooking Asian food, I would probably most highly recommend Barbara Tropp's first book, "The Modern Art of Chinese Cooking," which has recently been reissued. Her discussion of technique is very clear and thorough, and in my experience, her recipes always work. I remember making her (MAJOR pain-in-the-butt) smoked chicken and bringing it to a potluck (it reheats really well and easily); one of the guests was a Taiwanese grad student who hadn't been able to afford to go home for several years, and when he ate the chicken he actually started crying and said it tasted like his grandmother's.

Pie Project Participants! MUCH success!

To everybody who was so generous as to make or donate a pie (or turnovers or mmmmmm empenadas): The Pie Project was a terrific success. In fact, we had so many pies that I am going back tomorrow (the pantry also serves on Fridays) to dish up the leftovers. Many people had seconds, one woman pronounced the pie "absolutely scrumptious," and one gentleman asked me to pass on a particular blessing to the maker of the apple-cranberry with oatmeal topping; he said he hadn't had homemade pie in so long that he had forgotten what made it so good, and he especially wanted to say thank you for reminding him.

So all in all, we did a good thing. My profound thanks to everyone who participated, and to those who wanted to pitch in but found that life got in the way. Happy Turkey Day!

Maggiesara

Calling all bakers: Looking to help the hungry this Thanksgiving?

Could you make one extra pie this year? Or maybe a dozen apple turnovers? Every Thursday, the food pantry at Central Synagogue provides a hot meal for 100-120 hungry people, but they don't have the resources to change up their regular menu (beef stew) to include any traditional Thanksgiving foods. It made me sad to think of the pantry's clients being left out of the national feast, so I have volunteered to provide enough pie for all. If you'd like to pitch in to the Pie Project and give a taste of Thanksgiving to some people to don't have much, please contact me at bookseller@nyc.rr.com.

Terrific Local Products

I have fallen in love with the mozzarella made by the Woodstock Water Buffalo Co. It's delicate and creamy and reminds me of the mozz I was so thrilled to eat in Italy -- about as far from supermarket rubber balls as you can get. The company is shooting for national distribution, but I suspect they're still a Northeast, maybe even a New York, phenom. What fabulous local products have you found for sale in your necks of the woods?

maggiesara hasn't favorited a post yet.