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From Serious Eats: New York

Marlow & Daughters Will Take Christmas Goose Orders

Actually, I hate to tell ya, but the goose wouldn't make Dickens proud; the bird that he orders up for the Cratchits' Christmas feast is a turkey -- specifically, an enormous turkey, as big as the urchin he hires to fetch it. Goose had previously been the bird of choice on England's Christmas tables, but "A Christmas Carol" was so influential that turkey supplanted it pretty much entirely. In fact, According to a recent piece in the New York Times, England's goose industry tanked as a result. And today, if you look at the food sections in various UK newspapers, they're full of discussions about the upcoming Christmas feast, and they all assume that turkey is the traditional centerpiece.

From Talk

Whey Low -- anybody using this stuff?

I've been using Whey Low for several years -- so much so that I no longer keep sugar in the house. I can't stand any other sugar substitutes, Splenda very much included (blech!), but Whey Low, for me, tastes and functions exactly like sugar. That said, I'm not a big dessert-person, so I haven't been churning out batches of cookies and ice cream with the stuff. However, I regularly use it to make fruit compote, as an ingredient in Asian dishes, to make simple-syrup for sweetening iced tea (yes, it thickens exactly like sugar), in coleslaw, etc. And I have used it to make desserts, everything from very simple teacakes (where an "off" flavor would be very noticeable) to fancy-ass mousse-filled cakes, and nobody has ever detected a difference.

As to its caloric/glycemic load, all I can say is that I've taken off more than 50 pounds in the past year on a modified low-carb diet (i.e., higher in carbs than, say, Atkins, but lower than a standard low-fat/high-carb regime), and though I eat fruit with Whey Low just about every morning, my blood-sugar levels continue to drop. I don't think this would be the case if I were eating an equivalent amount of straight sugar. But as always, YMMV.

From Serious Eats

Emeril Still Alive at Food Network

What makes me sad about Emeril's quasi-departure is that his was one of the last shows on the network that actually involves, you know, cooking. I don't LIKE his cooking, and his relationship with the audience makes me a little queasy, but at least he does occasionally chop things up and apply heat to them and mix them with other things. From here on in it's just going to be increasing variations on the "Welcome to the Skittles factory" theme, and Sandra Lee on endless loop.

From Serious Eats

What Should Replace Roast Turkey as the National Thanksgiving Dish?

if you insist on a principally green dish, fried okra (though fried okra is more beige than green, now that I'm thinking about it).

Fried okra is conceptually green, and that's what counts.

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From Talk

Pie Project Participants! MUCH success!

From Talk

Calling all bakers: Looking to help the hungry this Thanksgiving?

From Talk

Terrific Local Products

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From Serious Eats: New York

Marlow & Daughters Will Take Christmas Goose Orders

Actually, I hate to tell ya, but the goose wouldn't make Dickens proud; the bird that he orders up for the Cratchits' Christmas feast is a turkey -- specifically, an enormous turkey, as big as the urchin he hires to fetch it. Goose had previously been the bird of choice on England's Christmas tables, but "A Christmas Carol" was so influential that turkey supplanted it pretty much entirely. In fact, According to a recent piece in the New York Times, England's goose industry tanked as a result. And today, if you look at the food sections in various UK newspapers, they're full of discussions about the upcoming Christmas feast, and they all assume that turkey is the traditional centerpiece.

From Talk

Whey Low -- anybody using this stuff?

I've been using Whey Low for several years -- so much so that I no longer keep sugar in the house. I can't stand any other sugar substitutes, Splenda very much included (blech!), but Whey Low, for me, tastes and functions exactly like sugar. That said, I'm not a big dessert-person, so I haven't been churning out batches of cookies and ice cream with the stuff. However, I regularly use it to make fruit compote, as an ingredient in Asian dishes, to make simple-syrup for sweetening iced tea (yes, it thickens exactly like sugar), in coleslaw, etc. And I have used it to make desserts, everything from very simple teacakes (where an "off" flavor would be very noticeable) to fancy-ass mousse-filled cakes, and nobody has ever detected a difference.

As to its caloric/glycemic load, all I can say is that I've taken off more than 50 pounds in the past year on a modified low-carb diet (i.e., higher in carbs than, say, Atkins, but lower than a standard low-fat/high-carb regime), and though I eat fruit with Whey Low just about every morning, my blood-sugar levels continue to drop. I don't think this would be the case if I were eating an equivalent amount of straight sugar. But as always, YMMV.

From Serious Eats

Emeril Still Alive at Food Network

What makes me sad about Emeril's quasi-departure is that his was one of the last shows on the network that actually involves, you know, cooking. I don't LIKE his cooking, and his relationship with the audience makes me a little queasy, but at least he does occasionally chop things up and apply heat to them and mix them with other things. From here on in it's just going to be increasing variations on the "Welcome to the Skittles factory" theme, and Sandra Lee on endless loop.

From Serious Eats

What Should Replace Roast Turkey as the National Thanksgiving Dish?

if you insist on a principally green dish, fried okra (though fried okra is more beige than green, now that I'm thinking about it).

Fried okra is conceptually green, and that's what counts.

From Recipes

Simply Cornbread

But you're talking about Southern cornbread; this is New England cornbread, which has just as venerable a history but is a different animal.

From Talk

Calling all bakers: Looking to help the hungry this Thanksgiving?

Hey olddad, I would love some Hubig pies. Will you email me at either of the two email addies listed above, and we can talk logistics?
Thanks so much,
Maggiesara

From Serious Eats

Ed Levine's Semi-Serious, Semi-Homemade Thanksgiving

I gots no problem with the Semi-Homemade approach (so long as no "tablescapes" are involved), but warning: IME, Thomas Keller's chicken stock is so lightly flavored as to be uhhhh...highly reminiscent of water. Granted, I like my chicken stock to yell CHICKEN, but the one time I tried playing with Keller's stuff, I wound up reducing it by about half with some chicken bones retrieved from the freezer and the scrapings of onions and carrots and parsley.

From Talk

Anna Pump Cookbooks- What happened there?

Speaking as a publisher, Jerzee Tomato, I'm afraid it's not that easy. But I certainly would love it if the books became available again.

From Talk

Calling all bakers: Looking to help the hungry this Thanksgiving?

I meant to say, to anyone who might want to join the Pie Project: PLEASE don't worry if you're not the greatest pie-maker in the world: I'm certainly not. And I'm willing to bet that the pantry's clients will appreciate the pies' being (and looking) home-made, because they will so clearly be a gift from one normal human being to another -- more Thanksgiving, less corporate charity.

From Talk

Calling all bakers: Looking to help the hungry this Thanksgiving?

Oh gosh, I have just been overwhelmed by the response here! And I'm thrilled. Here are the details, which I'll repeat in emails to all who wrote asking for specifics:

1. The pantry specifically requested fruit pies (rather than, say, pumpkin, though pecan would probably be ok), because they will have to sit out overnight, and we don't want any issues with custard going bad. Also, fruit pies are easier to cut.

2. Many of the pantry's clients work, so they stop off to get food in the morning, and they take it away to eat later in the day. Pieces of pie are difficult to pack into a paper bag, so I thought it would be helpful to have some of the pies be in the form of turnovers or pocket pies. People who would like to send pie from outside of NYC -- and THANK YOU!! -- might find it easier to send turnovers. Off the top of my head, I'd suggest baking them, wrapping them individually in bubble wrap, and putting them in a fairly sturdy box for overnight delivery. Please let me know if you'd like a recipe for turnovers -- or for pie, for that matter, that I bet most Serious Eaters have that covered.

3. My mom will be baking a couple of pies, but she has also volunteered her apartment as Pie Central. The plan is to collect all pies at her place by about 2 in the afternoon THE DAY BEFORE THANKSGIVING, at which point I'll pack them all up and get a car to take them over to the pantry. Since it's Mom, I'm really loathe to post her address on a public website. If you're having trouble getting through to my email address, you can try books at Felony and Mayhem dot com. Yes, you do have to spell out the "and."

Once again, thank you all so much! Happy though I am to be doing this, I was feeling a little faint at the thought of baking ALL those pies.

From Talk

Anna Pump Cookbooks- What happened there?

I used to have Loaves and Fishes, got rid of it when I moved, and now I'd love to have a copy again, but used copies cost a fortune.

From Talk

Lobster Cantonese in Manhattan or suburbs?

Lobster Cantonese is a classic Chinese-American dish of lobster in a sauce made with fermented black beans and ground pork. Sometimes you'll see "shrimp in lobster sauce" on old-school menus, and that's shrimp in the sauce that would otherwise be used for lobster. You're going to be most likely to find it at somewhat old-fashioned restaurants -- the ones that feature egg rolls and lo mein rather than soup dumplings and cold sesame noodles.

From Serious Eats

The Next Iron Chef: Pressure

Adam Roberts was talking last week about his realization of why this contest matters so much to the chefs in question -- so much more than it does to the wannabes on Top Chef. However, I think he got it wrong. It's not that losing -- failing to become The Next Iron Chef -- will cost the chefs so much in terms of respect and revenues at their various restaurants. It's that WINNING the gig -- becoming The Next Iron Chef -- offers so much potential for vastly, hugely increased recognition and paydays. Mario's appearances on "Iron Chef," for example, amount to one enormous PR campaign for his restaurants and cookbooks; the same is true for Bobby Flay and Morimoto. There isn't a publishing company or a restaurant in the world that could afford to buy that kind of TV exposure, and -- assuming the chef is both knowledgeable and charming -- there isn't a restaurant or cookbook that wouldn't benefit significantly.

From Talk

Secrets of Chicken Soup

I'm a passionate fan of feet in chicken soup -- creates unbelievable body. Whole Foods does indeed carry organic feets (and sometimes backs as well -- another good addition), and Quattro Farms, the pheasant people at the US Greenmarket, have wonderful soup chickens. The only problem with them is that they have a TON of fat that should be removed ahead of time, but if you're smart and frugal and can channel your grandmother, you'll render it down and give yourself both a great cooking medium and (mmmm) cracklings.

From Serious Eats

Jessica Seinfeld and Missy Chase Lapine: 'Wrong, Wrong, Wrong'

Actually, I thought Sheraton was right on, particularly since, as she noted, the amount of spinach that actually gets consumed in the Deceptive Brownie is something like 1 teaspoon of puree. And I doubt the relationship of children and spinach has changed a lot since the 1960s.

I don't have a kid, so I'm full of hot air. But Laurie Colwin's approach -- make the vegetables taste good -- has always seemed very sensible to me. She points out, for example, that just about everyone likes fried things, and that kids will be more likely to eat carrot sticks or cucumber sticks if they have something delicious to dip them into.

From Talk

People just pretend to actually love macaroons, right?

I love macarons -- love the intense flavor and the multiple textures. Don't much like macaroons, but then, I don't really like cookies.

From Serious Eats

Where to Find Macarons

FWIW, I'm not a fan of Payard's macarons. Too sweet, and (some flavors) chemical-tasting. NOT good.

From Serious Eats: New York

The Best Jewish Delis: What's Your Favorite?

By me, french fries are not a staple of Jewish delis. They're certainly not echt deli fare along the lines of soup, pastrami and corned beef, chopped liver, pickles, salami-and-eggs. In fact, I don't think I've ever eaten or ordered french fries in a deli; if it's a good deli, the sandwiches are of a size that really doesn't cry out for a side dish. If you must add something to the line-up of judging criteria beyond the soups and meats, I nominate chopped liver. It's what my grandmother would have called A Nice Appetizer.

From Talk

What do you pack for lunch?

Back in my office-worker days I used to make an enormous wok-full of stir-fried veggies (usually Barbara Tropp's recipe for Buddha's Delight -- yum!), and I'd pack that on top of freshly made brown rice. I like room-temp Chinese food, and the topping would keep the rice from getting chilled and nasty. For breakfast, I bought jalapeno corn muffins from Fred at the Union Square Greenmarket and froze them wrapped in tin foil. I'd stick one in the oven when I made my coffee, and retrieve it just as I was walking out the door; by the time I got to the office, it would be thawed and warm and the perfect temp for eating at my desk with my first cup of office-coffee.

From Serious Eats

Introduction to French Macarons

Where to buy good macarons (anywhere? ANYWHERE in the U.S.???) and how to make them (how to create the little "foot," how to give the "skin" just the right degree of tensile strength, how to add intense flavor without disrupting the delicate balance of dry ingredients to liquids) is the subject of MANY blog discussions.

From Serious Eats

Long Underappreciated, Cecilia Chiang Releases Charming Cookbook

Thank you so much for the Inness recommendation, Karen. That's exactly the kind of book that interests me -- I'm a huge Laura Shapiro fan.

Re the role of women, when I first started writing about China, about 15 years ago, one of the things that interested me a lot was that many of the CEOs I was meeting -- the people in charge of some of the country's largest companies -- were women. Coming from the U.S., this was incredible to me. Some time later I spent a long afternoon sitting out a Hong Kong rainstorm and yacking with a Chinese designer who had spent several years living in Canada, mostly in a Jewish neighborhood in Montreal. We were talking about why I, as a New York Jew, felt so oddly comfortable in China, and why he had felt so comfortable in a Jewish enclave, and one of the things we discussed was the traditional division of labor: In both Jewish and Chinese households, it was common for the wife to run the business while the husband spent his time in scholarly pursuits. Scholarship, rather than business, was where the status was, so the business -- the store, the restaurant -- was turned over to the women.

From Serious Eats

Long Underappreciated, Cecilia Chiang Releases Charming Cookbook

(laughing) I don't know about lots of knowledge, Jenn; I have lots of cookbooks, which is not at all the same thing. And actually, if you're starting out cooking Asian food, I would probably most highly recommend Barbara Tropp's first book, "The Modern Art of Chinese Cooking," which has recently been reissued. Her discussion of technique is very clear and thorough, and in my experience, her recipes always work. I remember making her (MAJOR pain-in-the-butt) smoked chicken and bringing it to a potluck (it reheats really well and easily); one of the guests was a Taiwanese grad student who hadn't been able to afford to go home for several years, and when he ate the chicken he actually started crying and said it tasted like his grandmother's.

From Talk

Vegan Gourmet

I really like Gobo, on 6th Avenue near Christopher Street, and I say that as a confirmed meat-eater. The food is really flavorful and creative, and nothing remotely "depriving" about it. It's not wildly upscale, but it's a definite step up from college-town-style grub.

From Serious Eats

Long Underappreciated, Cecilia Chiang Releases Charming Cookbook

Actually -- and much as I genuinely like Chiang's books -- I think Alice Waters is guilty of some kind of spectacular home-town myopia here: Cecilia Chiang is NOT the "Julia Child of Chinese food." She owned one restaurant in one city. Until "Seventh Daughter," she had produced one cookbook. She did not have any kind of national audience -- she didn't have a television show or a radio show or a newspaper column. Her restaurant may have been influential in the Northern California food scene but, with all due respect to Ms. Waters, that's a far cry from being Julia Child.

In thinking of Ms. Waters' confusion of San Francisco celebrity with national stature, I can't help thinking of the SF Chronicle's article about her recent book tour to Chicago, and her rather stunned reaction when only a handful of people show up for her book signing. She may be a big name in Northern California, but in the midwest...not so much. And I don't mean to diss Northern California: There are certainly plenty of chefs -- Daniel Boulud, say, or Eric Ripert, or Jean-Georges Vongerichten -- who loom very large in the NYC food scene but have no national platform and thus zero national celebrity.

From Serious Eats

Long Underappreciated, Cecilia Chiang Releases Charming Cookbook

Islandexile -- I like Seventh Daughter, but if you can get your hands on it, I'd recommend even more highly Chiang's earlier book, The Mandarin Way, now unfortunately out of print. As in Seventh Daughter, the recipes are for fairly standard dishes -- with the exception of Chiang's Chinese take on gaoma-ae (developed during the years she lived and ran a restaurant in Tokyo), there was nothing for which I didn't already have multiple recipes, courtesy of Grace Young, Ken Hom, Fuschia Dunlop, Irene Kuo, Eileen Yin Fei-Lo, etc. But the personal context in which she places the recipes, and her personal history, is absolutely fascinating.

From Recipes

Simply Cornbread

I think the maple syrup and walnuts will make this often dry bread into a delicious addition to Thanksgiving dinner. I'm going to give it a try!

From Serious Eats

Where to Find Macarons

WHERE IN THE WORLD CAN I FIND MACARONS???? I WANT A MACARON CAKE FOR MY BEST FRIEND'S BRIDAL SHOWER, BUT CANT FIND ANYONE THAT DOES THEM IN ATLANTA. HELP!!!!

From Serious Eats

Do British Candy Bars Taste Better? Serious Eats Investigates

i mean the US chocolates cant compare to the UK ones ! sorry!

From Serious Eats

Do British Candy Bars Taste Better? Serious Eats Investigates

I am from Wales in the UK and I have a Second home in LA, and I go there around 6-7 times a year. The thing I miss the most going there is having Cadbury's Dairy Milk. there are so many gorgeous chocolates in the UK - Mars, Galaxy, Snickers, etc. And they just cant compare to the chocolate in the US. I will say the sweets/candy in the US in great, but the chocolate cant compare.

i will defend the black/white biscuits, they are kinda nice. everyone likes them in the UK!

From Serious Eats: New York

The Best Jewish Delis: What's Your Favorite?

Oh man, I think I am going to plan a Deli tour of NYC. I am from Vancouver, BC and we have Kaplans which has been around since the 50's I believe, but it is not so good, not anymore. Other than that we have NOTHING here. As for the comment about Montreal, I don't agree that Montreal bagels are the best, I don't like them chewy I like them the way I grew up with them which are more doughy. Also we don't have smoked meat in Vancouver, but rather corned beef.

Anyway I did go to Artie's when I was in NY three years ago as well as Katz' and preferred Artie's by a longshot.

I am sad that I have missed out on all the great deli's from a bygone era, I may never get to experience the atmosphere and tastes that I grew up yearning for.

From Serious Eats: New York

The Best Jewish Delis: What's Your Favorite?

I live in Jersey and so far the best Jewish Deli is in Cherry Hill. It's called the Kibitz Room. The Matzo ball soup is to die for, the liver knish is one of the best I have ever tasted. When I need a Kibbitz "fix" I go for the pastrami sandwich with chopped liver on pumpernickle, a liver knish and matzo ball soup and their pickles and green tomatoes. The matzo ball soup and the knish get eaten later for dinner. The sandwiches come half or whole and they also have a humongous sandwich called the g.b.m.f. It is insane. It took four of us to eat it. Next time anyone is in Jersey and close proximity to Cherry Hill, try them. The deli guys are a riot and they do kibitz with you and the waitresses are funny.

From Serious Eats

Where to Find Macarons

Just opened in NYC with a pastry chef trained in Paris!

www.bisousciao.com

Best macarons I've had in the States by far.

From Serious Eats

Introduction to French Macarons

After having Pierre Herme in Paris, I was hooked on macarons (like many of the previous posts). I have tried them in the States and have thus far been slightly disappointed... However, on a recent trip to NYC, a friend had brought me some that were absolutely amazing (delicate structure with a refined taste) that took me right back to Paris. I only wish that they would ship these outside of NY! But if you live in the city, do yourself a favor and check out:
www.bisousciao.com

From Talk

Chopsticks vs Fork

I am Chinese and have been using chopsticks for as long as I can remember. However, I only use them for Chinese-style food. In contrast, my father uses chopsticks for everything, claiming that they are the perfect utensil. He even uses them to eat potato chips and cake!

From Talk

Question of the Day: What's the best food song?

I sang this one in elementary choir and it's still sticks!

"In today's noodle soup, alphabetic;
there's a fly looking weak and pathetic.

In the noodles he spells out a message!
SOS, send a raft, or canoe.

Look the fly still continue's the message!
And PS, I did not like the soup."

From Talk

Question of the Day: What's the best food song?

I love "Lunch Lady Land" too, by Adam Sandler. "Sloppy Joe, Sloppy-sloppy Joe...." classic.
But, in a nod to a post I did a few days ago, who can forget Rapper's Delight by the Sugarhill Gang?
"like a can of beer that's sweeter than honey
like a millionaire that has no money
like a rainy day that is not wet
like a gamblin fiend that does not bet
like dracula with out his fangs
like the boogie to the boogie without the boogie bang
like collard greens that dont taste good
like a tree that's not made out of wood
like goin up and not comin down
is just like the beat without the sound no sound
to the beat beat, ya do the freak
everybody just rock and dance to the beat
have you ever went over a friends house to eat
and the food just aint no good
i mean the macaroni's soggy the peas are mushed
and the chicken tastes like wood
so you try to play it off like you think you can
by sayin that you're full
and then your friend says momma he's just being polite
he aint finished uh uh that's bull
so your heart starts pumpin and you think of a lie
and you say that you already ate
and your friend says man there's plenty of food
so you pile some more on your plate
while the stinky foods steamin your mind
starts to dreamin'
of the moment that it's time to leave
and then you look at your plate and your chickens slowly rottin'
into something that looks like cheese
oh so you say that's it i got to leave this place
i dont care what these people think
im just sittin here makin myself nauseous
with this ugly food that stinks
so you bust out the door while its still closed
still sick from the food you ate
and then you run to the store for quick relief
from a bottle of kaopectate
and then you call your friend two weeks later
to see how he has been
and he says i understand about the food
baby bubbah but we're still friends..."

From Talk

Question of the Day: What's the best food song?

"Prepare yourself and you know it's a must...gotta have a friend in cheese sauce..."

What? What's that you say? 'Gotta have a friend in Jesus??" Oh, whoops. Well, whatever, it works my way, too!

From Talk

Question of the Day: What's the best food song?

Spam monty python
If I knew you were coming I'd have baked a cake Andrew sisters

From Talk

Question of the Day: What's the best food song?

"Grandma Put Summer In A Jar." Great song, I think sung by John Brown.

From Talk

Question of the Day: What's the best food song?

A second vote for "Cheeseburger in Paradise!" It's my dad's favorite song---I've always told him we'll dance to THAT at my wedding!

From Talk

Question of the Day: What's the best food song?

"Kitchen Man" by Bessie Smith, but I think it might not really be about food.

From Talk

Question of the Day: What's the best food song?

Come on a-my house (Rosemary Clooney)
Party on the Mountain (The Nitty Gritty Dirt Band)

From Talk

Best Find from Trader Joes?

My pleasure bareneed, especially when it is to bring new people into the TJ's cult. Unfortunately there isn't a store in SC yet. They have locations in Chapel Hill, Charlotte, and Cary in NC, and half a dozen locations in GA. Perhaps a road trip is in order once you get there; you can even use the excuse that you want to compare the 'cue in NC and SC (well beyond the scope of this thread).

From Talk

Best Find from Trader Joes?

@DavidNY - Thank you so much for your information - that is what I love about this site, people are friendly and willing to share their knowledge with others. I will try and find the video and watch it, perhaps I can also "google" it and find out if there is a store in Charleston. I will definitely check it out.

From Talk

Best Find from Trader Joes?

bareneed: There is a recently posted video of a fan-made TJs "commercial" on this site. It sums up the store better than I can, but here is a brief overview. TJs sells mostly private-label products, which are often identical to brand name ones, just with different packaging. They sell them at much lower prices than the branded counterparts, but even when they do carry items you can find elsewhere, they are often significantly cheaper. Their basic "philosophy" is to cut out middle-men as much as they can, and buy directly from manufacturers. Other ways they keep prices low are by having a more limited selection (and smaller stores) than most suburban supermarkets, limiting advertising to radio ads they record themselves, getting rid of products that don't sell well, buying from suppliers in large quantities, etc. etc. While they do sell a lot of organic and healthy food, there is also a ton of snack food and other items that are upscale but definitely off-limits to anyone on a diet (witness the bacon spinach salad containing 50 grams of fat). The stores are done up in a mock-maritime decor, with wood paneling, a ship's bell for signaling the crew, Hawaiian shirts for full-time employees, etc. As you can probably tell, people are fanatical about the place. Aside from the food and prices, there is a fun atmosphere to the stores; I worked there for three years, and constantly had people telling me that it was their favorite place to shop (for anything). The company also treats its employees better than just about anyone else does; IMHO, the only reason it never appears on Fortunes Best Companies to Work For is that it is privately held.

From Talk

Best Find from Trader Joes?

Waah! I have never heard of Trader Joe's - live in Canada - do they use branded products or their own - what is their philosophy? Organic, green? Is there a Trader Joes in Charleston, S.C.? I will be there for two weeks this summer.

From Talk

Best Find from Trader Joes?

Ditto on the gyoza. Sesame-crusted cashews. Marinated tri-tip (almost impossible to find in any other store in New York). Frozen pizzas. Greek yogurt. Frozen raspberries at half the price of any other store. Double-roasted salsa.

kqrbob: The edamame are from Thailand.

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From Talk

Pie Project Participants! MUCH success!

From Talk

Calling all bakers: Looking to help the hungry this Thanksgiving?

From Talk

Terrific Local Products

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