Historically and belovedly low-brow, in the last few years, fried chicken has moved beyond Sunday dinners in the South and greasy buckets at a tailgate, and is holding its own on fine-dining menus across the country. And why not? It's so good. Lee Brian Schrager, who is best known as the creator of the Food Network South Beach and New York City Wine & Food Festivals, has a soft spot for the crunchy stuff, as so many of us do. He, however, had the smarts and resources (and digestive fortitude, apparently) to sleuth and secure the recipes for some of the most delicious fried chicken this nation has to offer for his new book, Fried & True: More than 50 Recipes for America's Best Fried Chicken and Sides.
Okay, tag this one for cold weather. Beyond rich, this bread pudding from The Beekman 1802 Heirloom Vegetable Cookbook by Brent Ridge and Josh Kilmer Purcell (co-authored with Sandy Gluck) is total diet-busting comfort food. It's like filching the cheese toasts off 20 bowls of French onion soup and soaking them in heavy cream.
This corn soup, from The Beekman 1802 Heirloom Vegetable Cookbook by Brent Ridge and Josh Kilmer Purcell (co-authored with Sandy Gluck), is laced with a bit of chipotle powder for a smoky, toasty edge, which is enhanced by roasting the corn kernels with poblano and red bell peppers. A simple and sweet broth is made by simply simmering the cobs in water for a short spell, and the soup is finished with heavy cream, because why not. It looks rich, but it feels surprisingly light and goes down all too easily.
Oh, Tomato Tart, how you haunt my dreams! (Divine and wicked, from Brent Ridge and Josh Kilmer-Purcell's The Beekman 1802 Heirloom Vegetable Cookbook.) Couldn't you have been less flaky, less creamy, less juicy-tomatoey? Or couldn't you at least have been more arduous or taken longer to put together? Then I wouldn't have blinked and devoured half a sheet of buttery puff pastry awash in milky ricotta and goat cheese.
You can't get much simpler than fish en papillote: a fillet with a few choice veggies or flavorings wrapped in parchment (or sometimes foil) and baked. Et voila: luscious, flavorful fish, and a lovely presentation, to boot. In The Beekman 1802 Heirloom Vegetable Cookbook, Brent Ridge and Josh Kilmer-Purcell offer an clever, edible alternative to wrapping in parchment: tender lettuce leaves swaddle a fillet of bass licked with a bright, herbaceous compound butter.
Every season has its harvest, even lean winter, and every cook has recipes that they turn to again and again to make the most of their garden/CSA box/farmer's market. But sometimes you find yourself in a rut, and you want something as easy, as soothing, as well-loved, not new but new to you. Brent Ridge and Josh Kilmer-Purcell, better known as those Fabulous Beekman Boys, deliver just that in the newest addition to their Heirloom cookbook series, The Beekman 1802 Heirloom Vegetable Cookbook, filled with their favorite ways of maximizing all that vegetal potential.
This salad, from Terry Hope Romero's new vegan cookbook, Salad Samurai, will take you longer than the 30 minutes estimated, but it will also be one of the best quinoa salads you'll ever have.
I love chickpeas. I'll eat them every which way, and sometimes right out of the can. But I don't usually do much to them before adding them to a dish. In this salad from her new vegan cookbook, Salad Samurai, Terry Hope Romero inspires me to do more. To make them the star of this show, she fries them until golden, and pours on a BBQ-inspired marinade that coats the now crispy chickpeas with smoky-sweet flavor.
You have to like both curry and fruit in savory places to be tempted by this salad from Terry Hope Romero's new vegan cookbook, Salad Samurai, because it's heavy in both. But if you're into that, which I happen to be, this salad will do you just right.
Buckwheat is the pseudo-grain (actually a seed) most associated with Eastern European cooking, often found as kasha or in blinis. It's also the flour used in Japanese soba noodles. So why, WHY, is this killer salad from Terry Hope Romero's new vegan cookbook, Salad Samurai, the first place I've seen soba noodles married with Eastern European flavors? And why didn't I think of doing that myself??
This is a vegan salad book. Now, come on, stay with me. This is a book by award-winning cookbook author Terry Hope Romero full of complex, belly-filling, sometimes even show-stopping meals that happen to be salads. And vegan. On board? You should be. Salad Samurai: 100 Cutting-Edge, Ultra-Hearty, Easy-to-Make Salads You Don't Have to be Vegan to Love is something of a wonder: a book that lives up to its subtitle. These are not sad-sack plates of greens killing time till the steak arrives. Packed with veggies, fruits, grains, and proteins, these are beefy salads—generous (bordering on immodest) and fully-loaded.
For this recipe from Buvette: The Pleasure of Good Food, Chef Jody Williams took her inspiration from Thomas Keller's well-loved salmon rillettes, which she learned to make during her time under him at his by-gone West Village restaurant, Rakel. With fresh and smoked salmon, crème fraîche, and horseradish, it's a rich, creamy, punchy dish that disappears quick.
This vegetable soup from Jody Williams' cookbook, Buvette: The Pleasure of Good Food, is impeccable—clean, light, and nourishing. Topped with a spoonful of heady pistou, it's the epitome of the harmony that can happen with a thoughtful collision of fresh ingredients.
Imagine waking up, head throbbing, room spinning, stomach growling. Too. Much. Wine. Waiting in the kitchen, left by some benevolent fantasy akin to the Easter Bunny or Tooth Fairy, is a pan steaming with silky, slightly caramelized peppers and onions, crumbles of spicy chorizo, and golden, life-giving eggs. This is Jody Williams' Piperade from her book, Buvette: The Pleasure of Good Food.
Buvette, Chef Jody Williams' 'gastrotheque' in Manhattan's West Village, mirrors the neighborhood it has its roots in—cozy, charismatic, with one foot in the romanticized past and one foot firmly in the now. Not surprisingly, Williams' new book of recipes from the restaurant, Buvette: The Pleasure of Good Food, is equally charming. This is a cookbook to get greasy and damp as you cook through its pages, and it's a nightstand cookbook, dreamy and warm, to flip through as you wind down.
Chicken liver mousse always make me think of the sexy, cozy wine bar where I once worked in the West Village. I watched their mousse regularly provoke consummate liver-haters to clean the bowl with their fingers. Chicken liver mousse can do that; it's got everything going for it. It's creamy, fatty, savory, and pureed beyond recognition of anything anatomical. Tom Mylan's version, from The Meat Hook Meat Book, is sure to twist some arms: a little funky, a little boozy, and rich enough to be dessert.
Pork belly has been enjoying its 15 minutes of fame for the last, what, 7 years or so? And no wonder: pork fat tastes good, and as every bacon-lover knows, pork belly is wonderfully fatty. This recipe, from Tom Mylan's The Meat Hook Meat Book, couldn't be easier, and lands you with luscious, wobbly, sweet-and-savory hunks of pork that are as good as any in Chinatown.
This recipe, from Tom Mylan's The Meat Hook Meat Book, is actually from Chef Jean Adamson of Vinegar Hill House, the Brooklyn restaurant known for their stellar pork chop. Brooklyn blood runs thick, friends in high places, and all that. However it made it's way to us, thank goodness it did. Insanely flavorful and juicy from a 12-hour brining, the chop is Flinstonian in proportions and, I think it's fair to say, generally epic.
Coming from a book with 'meat' in the title twice, Tom Mylan's chili in the The Meat Hook Meat Book is unsurprisingly brimming with a ton of meat. Okay, not a ton, but an impressive five pounds—two of beef, two of pork, and one of lamb—or 20 quarter-pounders, to put things in perspective.
In pretty much every article on the rise of the rock-star butcher since 2009, one name is referenced time and again: Tom Mylan, co-owner of The Meat Hook, a sustainable butcher shop located in the center of the artisan-food universe, Brooklyn (of course). In fact, if you Google 'hipster butcher,' The Meat Hook is the first site you'll see. Which is funny, because Mylan's new cookbook, The Meat Hook Meat Book, released this year, is so not about being hip, in the who-has-a-bigger-mustache, Portlandia-esque way that the nouveau-DIY food scene can be. Rather, it's about making butchery approachable and accessible and about cooking down-and-dirty delicious meat.
You hear cucumber-yogurt soup, and you might think of slim-waisted, still-hungry women sipping delicate spoonfuls. Diana Henry's version in A Change of Appetite is less 'ladies who lunch' and more Elaine Stritch singing "Ladies Who Lunch:" ballsy, dynamic, and unexpectedly complex.
There's a reason oozing, soft-cooked eggs are arguably overused in food styling. That glistening ovum gold is like icing dripping down a cake, and anything underneath it is transformed into something richer, tastier, and more appealing. I would have been sold on this recipe from Diana Henry's new A Change of Appetite without that lusty addition, given my fondness for lentils in vinaigrette, but that broken yolk sealed the deal.
This recipe, from Diana Henry's new cookbook, A Change of Appetite, is not for the faint of heart. A garlicky, slightly sweet marinade with a whopping two-thirds of a cup of spicy grated ginger does not leave the chicken thighs wanting for any flavor, I'll tell you that much.
In this recipe from her new cookbook, A Change of Appetite, Diana Henry elevates the classic caprese combo of mozzarella, tomato, and basil with the addition of nectarine. The ripe fruit adds a juicy sweetness that I never realized was missing. Dressed with just olive oil and white balsamic, every element shows at its best. So simple, so smart.
Diana Henry's latest release, A Change of Appetite is a robust compendium of recipes that she created to suit her new, more considered approach to eating. Like many of us in the food world, she struggled to fit her gourmand inclinations into size six expectations. After years of that boring old battle, she changed her thinking and her appetite followed: no punishing diets or fad cleanses, just real, delicious, conscientiously chosen and prepared food. She delivered this book to sate the hunger of those like-minds for whom 'eating well' has a twofold meaning.
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