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I sympathize with Pollan's reaction against phony nutritionism. I like the way the French eat too. But I get tired of that worldview where everything we approve of lines up on one side, and everything we don't approve of lines up on the other. Claiming that Big Money, Big Oil, Corporations (hiss) foster obesity make it easy to criticize. But he has nothing to say about the great cultural shift which has liberated women from domestic chores and permitted them some independence, i.e., a job. Grandmother didn't cook with guar gum, and yes, the farming "grandmother" of his imagination prepared all the families' food from scratch -- but she spent at least 5 hours a day doing so.