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Impromptu Taste Test: The Cult of Yakult
Love it ever since I was born! Love it as slushies, blend it with fruits to make smoothies, but the best is still straight all 5 straight up in one sitting!
Ballaró Caffé Prosciutteria: Italian Meats, Cheeses, and Panini in the East Village
"If there's another place in Manhattan to score this portion of fresh, almost grassy burrata for a measly $4, please point me to it"
That would be Di Palo's
Maple Vanilla Yogurt from Hawthorne Valley Farm
I love their pickle juices: the kimichi juice and the dill pickle juice are my favorite!
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Recent Comments | Response to Comments
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
This whole article articulates in such details on how to perfect the texture of the eggs. But it didn't mention about a big factor - how to remove the sulfuric taste of the egg yolk!
I watched Chef Pepin's cookshow once he taught the audience an important trick: to poke a tiny hole at the broad end of the egg (using a push pin or similar) before boiling. With this you can effectively eliminate the sulfuric smell and taste of the egg yolk, and simultaneously remove the greyish green "rim" around the yolk (which you can see between the egg white and the egg yolk from the pictures above).
This method has work perfectly for me! And these small details are what make a perfect egg!
Impromptu Taste Test: The Cult of Yakult
Love it ever since I was born! Love it as slushies, blend it with fruits to make smoothies, but the best is still straight all 5 straight up in one sitting!
Ballaró Caffé Prosciutteria: Italian Meats, Cheeses, and Panini in the East Village
"If there's another place in Manhattan to score this portion of fresh, almost grassy burrata for a measly $4, please point me to it"
That would be Di Palo's
Maple Vanilla Yogurt from Hawthorne Valley Farm
I love their pickle juices: the kimichi juice and the dill pickle juice are my favorite!
Is Ham the New Bacon?
I purchased the vacuum-sealed sliced Surryano ham from Sam Edwards. They advertised it as ultra thin but the ham was thick. Most importantly, it's dry! Very disappointing product.
When I wrote an email to customer service to explain the situation, the owner (?) wrote back that I have a "sophisticated" taste to demand the ham to be thin. Unbeliveably rude.
That's why they will never get my business again.
The best service and ham I had was from Benton.
The Nasty Bits: Gizzards Galore
If you live in Manhattan, you can get duck gizzards at Deluxe Food Market at Chinatown, for only $1.50 or so / lb!
The Nasty Bits: Whole Hock
If you love pig trotters and live in NYC, you must go to Hakata Tonton. The whole menu is devoted to pig trotters!
Lunch and Dinner at Locanda Verde: Just Like Breakfast, Worth a Trip
Nick: *Complement, not compliment
Weird Food-Related Collections
I collect salt. Everywhere I go I look for their local unique type of salt and bring it home. Hence I have salt from different places of different countries, so many different colors and textures! Most of them are mainly for collection, as I use pretty the same types (about 3-4) for cooking and eating.
Outstanding Beef at DBGB, But Prices Are Steep
Nick, the pinkish patties look really delicious! They didn't appear to be that thick though, so medium rare may turn out too dry, you think?
Serious Cheese: What Happens When a Curd Nerd Becomes Lactose Intolerant?
I have similar problems when having diary food, but I tried and tested many things like you are doing right now. I found that for most aged cheese I am fine without having too much. Goat/sheep cheese and goat milk (and ice-cream) work really well for me!
Table 8: Inconsistent and Overpriced
Completely agree with your assessment. I don't think this kind of food can excite any New Yorkers.
Marea: Excellent Italian Seafood in a Casual Setting by Central Park
Hi Nick,
Excellent review as always! I am wondering how you would compare Marea to Le Bernardin? Which one do you prefer (based on your own personal preference and judgement?)
Serious Deal: Convivio
I agree with the Stracciatella. That's probably the best burrata I had in the city (and I have had a lot of burrata). How come you didn't post the picture? Let people drool over the creamy goodness!
Artisan Scrapple at Williamsburg's Egg
kathryn, that's a brilliant idea!
Alice Waters Agrees with Me: President Obama Needs to Try Some Beets
I think that Alice Water should just keep her mouth shut and focus back to cooking (and gardening). She really doesn't have to speak that much, just her food speaks for itself.
More changes at per se?
That's for their lunch and has been there for awhile.
They just started to have a bar menu (a la carte) at their salon too.
Cook the Book: ''Wichcraft'
Non-Vegetarian: Broiche toast "sandwich" with Duck Liver Pate and Cranberry Chutney, cornichons or pickled pearl onions on the side
Vegetarian:
Grilled Taleggio and Asian Pear Sandwich
Grilled Beets and Goat Cheese Sandwich
Best gnocchi you've had in NYC?
I loved the gnocchi at Del Posto. It was pan seared so it had a crispy "skin" with a fluffy pillowy innard. The ragu that came with it was also excellent. The gnocchi was better than the one I had at Lupa and Babbo, even though they were also very good.
I agree with kathryn that the gnocchi at Hearth was excellent as well. You can get that at Insieme as well.
Snapshots from Italy: Making Burrata, the Meta-Mozzarella, in Puglia
I love burrata. I get it almost every week at Di Palo's. I have serious craving of burrata if I don't have it at least once a week.
Cook the Book: 'Urban Italian'
Sometimes when I make caprese salad, I use shredded shiso leaves instead of basil to go with mozzarella and tomato. It is inspired from my Japanese root. I love shiso!
What about lunch near 57th and 7th?
The prix-fixe lunch at Maze of the London Hotel (by Gordon Ramsay) is excellent!
Ko, eh.
Well, even the best restaurant in the world will not please everyone's palette. If you read around you will see there are plenty of people that criticized about Per Se, French Laundry. So now you know Ko isn't the best meal you have and you probably like somewhere else's tasting menu better. You move on, and try new place.
Grocery Ninja: What to Do With Condensed Milk
Don't forget about condensed milk on shaved ice! Combined with adzuki beans and mochi and green tea - The best dessert in summer!
There is an product called "milk jam" in Japan which is similar to condensed milk but even more "milky" taste and sweeter. It is heaven in a jar....
All About Coffee in San Francisco
The Blue Bottle coffee served at Gramercy Tavern is SO GOOD! I had one and got instantly hooked. Now everytime I go to GT I have to order one!
McDonald's Cheeseburger vs. McDouble vs. Double Cheeseburger
I know folks who prefer the cheeseburger because it tastes better than the double cheeseburger.
I have to say the McDouble works for me because the one slice of cheese allows for the meat flavor to come through more than on the double cheeseburger.
I know this is off the subject, but the new Angus Mushroom & Swiss is good!
McDonald's Cheeseburger vs. McDouble vs. Double Cheeseburger
Hilarious.
I just happen to be eating a McD's Cheeseburger right now! I missed lunch and had the hubby bring me one, well actually two, to work.
Tastes pretty good when you're really hungry!
McDonald's Cheeseburger vs. McDouble vs. Double Cheeseburger
I want to know why the double cheeseburger was cheaper than the cheeseburger for a while. does anyone remember that? one was $1 and the other $1.29
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
@bgruber
Thanks to SeriousEats convenient comment subscriptions, I get comments forwarded to my inbox, so yep. Still reading them.
As for the answer... em... because Cook's Illustrated readers like their salmon more well-done than I do?
shh... don't tell Chris!
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
Kenji, if you're still reading the comments on this...
"This is very similar to the gunk that seeps out of the surface of overcooked salmon."
When you did the poached/steamed salmon on ATK, you had white gunk, but made a point to say that it didn't mean the salmon was overcooked. Why the discrepancy? Was that a special case because of the cooking method?
Also, thanks for this and all of your articles on here. They've been great.
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
@ScoutinSpokane - sounds like something that might be good for the toaster oven.
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
I adore soft boiled eggs!! I could eat 10 at a time for sure!
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
Kenji,
The heat transfer rate/area = (coefficient of thermal conductivity)*(T_bath-T_egg)/distance
The equation is the same regardless of the medium. The dependence on the medium comes from the thermal conductivity coefficient.
Also, I agree with you that we are the only two involved in this conversation right now :)
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
I may have missed it, but I didn't see any comments about baking "hard boiled" eggs. I didn't think it would work when I saw the article, but just set the raw eggs on middle rack of a cold oven, (they recommend a little foil on the bottom of the oven in case one is cracked and breaks - never had it happen) set oven temp to 325, set timer to 30 min., when timer goes off, drop in very cold water. I've done it several times, worked perfect everytime. Tried pulling some out at 25 min., yolks were not completely set good enough for devilled eggs, but perfect for eating with a little salt and pepper. One complaint about this method is wasting electricity just for a few eggs. I had my potatoes wrapped in foil, some bread rolls rising, and some jalepeno poppers that I bake as an appetizer ready to go in at appropriate times once full temp was reached. Egg salad sandwiches, potato salad, some appetizers, and probably hashbrowns for breakfast in my future. What energy waste?
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
@pookay
p.s. All of this is starting to remind me why thermodynamics was my second least favorite class in college :)
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
@pookay - yes, you're right. I jumped the gun in my response there. I stand corrected.
But at the risk of putting my foot in my mouth again, I'm going to ask you another question: my immediate reaction is that your statement that the rate of heating is inversely proportional to the distance is not quite accurate, because it does not take into account the heat transfer coefficient of the egg. In a vacuum, yes, the rate of heating is proportional to only the distance, but an egg has mass, and so there is a coefficient involved, and that coefficient is proportional to thickness of the egg that the heat has to pass through, so does that not turn the equation into an exponential one instead of a linear one?
And one more question: are we losing the other SEers here? :)
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
Kenji,
The contradition I pointed out still stands no matter what constants are involved since any constant divided by zero is still infinity.
The rate of heating per area is proportional to the temperature difference and inversely proportional to the distance (this actually means that in the instant right after the cool egg is put in the boiling water, the rate of heat transfer to the outer surface of the egg is infinite; note that this is not a paradox since an infinite rate times an infinitely small time interval is still a finite amount of heat). The temperature itself is not inversely proportional to the distance (or the square of the distance); solving the rate equation, the temperature approaches that of the boiling water exponentially fast with time so that if you wait long enough the whole egg will be the same temperature as the bath. The distance to the heat bath appears only in the exponent, so that the closer to the bath, the faster the temperature changes.
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
@Pookay
Thanks for the correction, although I think the original statement is technically not inaccurate - the temperature I did say proportional, which is not to say that there are not constants involved (such as the temperature of the heat source) in the equation that takes care of the zero/infinity case.
Newton's law of cooling only states that the rate of heat transfer is proportional to the temperature difference between the body and its surroundings - it doesn't have anything to do the temperature gradient formed within a solid mass. To solve that, I think it helps to think of the egg as something like a russian doll - a series of solids. From there you can see that because of Newton's law of cooling, the outer layers heat up at a much faster rate than the inner layers and that the differences in the rate at which the various layers are heating up is proportional to the distance, which means that the differences in the actual temperatures of the various layers are proportional to the inverse square of the distance.
@Attack monkey
I was doing it lid off - but like I said in the post, you can't control for all the variables that might affect cooking time - your house might be a few degrees cooler than mine, or your stove might have a few more btu's than mine. This article is meant more as a guide so that you know what aspects to consider when boiling an egg, and so that you understand the science behind it, and will thus be able to optimize cooking in your own particular environment. If that means putting on a lid to reduce the rate of heat loss, so be it!
- Kenji
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
@J. Kenji Lopez-Alt
Awesome write-up, I disdain cooking but am a scientist at heart... First thing I did was cruise down to the kitchen to give it a shot. When doing HB (but also SB) are you putting/leaving the lid on? That significantly changes the rate of heat loss to the environment and can make a big change in the water temperature variation over time...?
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
As a scientist, I'm glad that someone is starting a series focusing on this aspect of cooking. However, I would like to point out an inconsistency:
"when a mass is exposed to heat for a given period of time, a temperature gradient will form within that mass, with the area closest to the heat source being hottest, and the area furthest from the heat source being coolest. With very few exceptions, the temperature of a given spot in the food is proportional to the inverse square of its distance from the surface exposed to the heat source."
If this were true, since the distance from the heat source at the surface of the egg is zero, this would imply that the surface of the egg has infinite temperature. I think you mean to say that the RATE of heat conduction depends on the distance from the heat source (as well as the temperature difference). Also, the rate of heat conduction is proportional to the inverse of the distance from the source, NOT the inverse squared (Newton's law of cooling).
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
I love the scientific approach to the art of boiling an egg. However, I am surprised the author did not mention the temperature of the egg going into the water. Were his eggs right out of the refrigerator (I don't thing so) or were they at room temperature? This is an important consideration and I am surprised that it wasn't mentioned!
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
I will beg to differ on the instructions given here.
You *can* have more control and reduce the variables involved in cooking your eggs. First of all, starting with cold eggs right out of the fridge is a mistake. You are maximizing the temperature difference between the egg's starting temperature and its final temperature. You will have much more control if you warm the eggs first. I place them in a bath of hot tap water for 10 minutes while I heat my water.
Secondly, I place the eggs directly into boiling water. The reason I put the eggs directly into boiling water is that waiting for a boil is a "soft target". What you consider a boil or a simmer could be as much as a minute different from someone else.
Lastly, I stop the cooking after a prescribed period of time by pouring off most of the hot water and replacing it with water and ice.
In summary: 1) I reduce the temperature change that will be required from the starting point of the egg to the end point of the process by warming the eggs up. 2) I avoid soft milestones by placing the eggs directly into boiling water at the beginning of the cooking process. 3) I stop the cooking (and improve the peel of the egg) by using an ice wash at the end.
BTW, if you want hot eggs, pull them out after only 10 or 15 seconds. The ice water will have already improved the peel by cooling the membrane and surface of the egg without cooling the inside of the egg. You can even peel the egg most of the time before the heat rebounds and makes the egg too hot to hold. A neat trick!
Impromptu Taste Test: The Cult of Yakult
Danactive tastes better, does more, is healthier and only costs .50 cents a bottle.
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
I've been doing it the way that Sara Moulton mentioned on her show many years ago - put the eggs in a saucepan covered with water. Bring it to a boil, not a hard boil. Turn off heat. Cover and let sit on a cold burner for a specific amount of time (I think she said 13 minutes but I do it for 16 minutes).
Remove carefully. Crack. Peel.
I find that if I crack them a bit and then refrigerate for awhile, they peel much easier.
So I am not really boiling per-say. This way I never over-boil, I never get a green line around the yolk, and I don't get that horrid sulphur smell you get from over boiling. Works well every time for me.
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
We did an entire series on "how to eggs" back in July. From getting the basics down we moved the egg out of its normal breakfast role into dinner as well as methods were really fool proof, we tried and tried until, well, perfect! http://www.chezus.com/?s=incredible+egg&x=0&y=0
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
I love this article! I've always thought I was an idiot since every time I boil eggs (I'm a hard boil-type), there is always something wrong with them. Now I know why! Soft boiled eggs look fascinating, but runny yolks gross me out big time.
Impromptu Taste Test: The Cult of Yakult
Ooh, I have fond of memories of this. It was a staple in my childhood, and it was always a treat. There was always something so pleasurable about tearing off that red and silver foil cover.
I'm now in my 30s, and I've rediscovered this drink. I just decided to buy three packs when I chanced upon a vendor on our street, since it was so humid. Great decision! I am now stashing packs in my fridge. If anyone asks, I'm citing the health-probiotic thingy as my reason for drinking it :-P.
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
I tried but could not get the "perfect soft-cooked egg" by placing an egg taken straight from the fridge into 180F water, despite meticulously maintaining the water bath at eggsactly 180F for the six minutes the egg was immersed. The egg was considerably undercooked, with the whites fairly liquidy. I'm going to try egg-en.
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
Ah....why am I only now finding this site??? The first article I read is the best thing since my Food Science class in culinary AND I find that it references the chef I admire most! I am ova-ly eggstatic! This has been worth the hunt...Knowing the whys and hows only make us better at what we love doing most.
The Food Lab: Perfect Boiled Eggs
Thank you, thank you! This was egg-citing to read because being a food nerd, I did always want to know egg-xactly how to boil the perfect egg. So thank you for shelling out this info!!!
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This whole article articulates in such details on how to perfect the texture of the eggs. But it didn't mention about a big factor - how to remove the sulfuric taste of the egg yolk!
I watched Chef Pepin's cookshow once he taught the audience an important trick: to poke a tiny hole at the broad end of the egg (using a push pin or similar) before boiling. With this you can effectively eliminate the sulfuric smell and taste of the egg yolk, and simultaneously remove the greyish green "rim" around the yolk (which you can see between the egg white and the egg yolk from the pictures above).
This method has work perfectly for me! And these small details are what make a perfect egg!