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From Serious Eats: New York

Great Sandwiches and More at Murray's Cheese Shop

I am certainly on board with the idea of a pickle in every sandwich. This holds true if the sandwich contains cheese or cured meats...you need the vinegary component to cut through the fatty richness of the cheese and meat.

Domestic prosciutto on the whole is an absolute trainwreck....UNLESS it comes from Herb Eckhouse at La Quercia in Norwalk, Iowa. I would happily welcome any of his cured pork products on any sandwich.

And people, people, people...use the salt! Please, please, please....food fear and salt fear in particular is for the "dead at 30 and buried at 70 crowd". Give me my Maldon or hold the brussels sprouts!

From Serious Eats: New York

Great New York Burgers I Won't Be Having for Lunch Today

Occasionally restaurants and bars have to do abide by economic realities and in these cases lunch maybe not be in their best interests. Not every city block in NYC will be a profitable spot for lunch business...especially in the case of a low check item like a hamburger.

From Serious Eats

Is 'Authentic' Ethnic Food By Definition Better? Does Authentic Trump Delicious?

This is an interesting discussion. I am going to have to side with Ferretti for the most part. Ed makes a nice point about Chinese chefs having to adapt to ingredient availability but beyond that I think Fred is right. I would be intrigued to know which Sichuan restaurants Ms. Dunlop enjoyed....for my own reference.

As for the rest of the piece I think the argument depends on how one views eating ethnic food. I like to eat it to learn more about a culture. Clearly the deep-fried, sticky-sweet glop that is Chinese-American cuisine is going to teach us that Americans like sugar (and far too much of it) with deep fried stuff. I like authentic Chinese because it is telling of where it is from (chilies & Sichuan pepper from Sichuan, chilies & vinegar from Hunan and so on) and like Thai food it tends to walk the tight rope of balance between all of the flavors in a dish. I like duck tongues and daufu and beef tendon. Can we at least agree to distinguish between Chinese-American and Chinese? The difference is tremendous and that way I'll know which places to avoid.....

From Serious Eats

Ibérico Ham: Crazy Good But Worth the Price?

And one other thing...bear with me...I'm on a roll! I have recently tasted the Prosciutto Americano from La Quercia in Norwalk, Iowa. This ham is outstanding....rivalling the best prosciutto from Italy (with the possible exception of the carpegna which, again, I have not had a chance to taste). It is more similar to Jamon Iberico than Prosciutto di Parma in it's porky flavor and silky texture. It is processed from Berkshire-bred pigs in Iowa (pork capital of the US) and less salt is used in the process resulting in a "porkier" taste. If I were to rank all of these I would say 1) Bellota 2) Jamon Iberico/La Quercia in a tie 3) Parma and they are all outstanding!

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Recent Comments | Response to Comments

From Serious Eats: New York

Great Sandwiches and More at Murray's Cheese Shop

I am certainly on board with the idea of a pickle in every sandwich. This holds true if the sandwich contains cheese or cured meats...you need the vinegary component to cut through the fatty richness of the cheese and meat.

Domestic prosciutto on the whole is an absolute trainwreck....UNLESS it comes from Herb Eckhouse at La Quercia in Norwalk, Iowa. I would happily welcome any of his cured pork products on any sandwich.

And people, people, people...use the salt! Please, please, please....food fear and salt fear in particular is for the "dead at 30 and buried at 70 crowd". Give me my Maldon or hold the brussels sprouts!

From Serious Eats: New York

Great New York Burgers I Won't Be Having for Lunch Today

Occasionally restaurants and bars have to do abide by economic realities and in these cases lunch maybe not be in their best interests. Not every city block in NYC will be a profitable spot for lunch business...especially in the case of a low check item like a hamburger.

From Serious Eats

Is 'Authentic' Ethnic Food By Definition Better? Does Authentic Trump Delicious?

This is an interesting discussion. I am going to have to side with Ferretti for the most part. Ed makes a nice point about Chinese chefs having to adapt to ingredient availability but beyond that I think Fred is right. I would be intrigued to know which Sichuan restaurants Ms. Dunlop enjoyed....for my own reference.

As for the rest of the piece I think the argument depends on how one views eating ethnic food. I like to eat it to learn more about a culture. Clearly the deep-fried, sticky-sweet glop that is Chinese-American cuisine is going to teach us that Americans like sugar (and far too much of it) with deep fried stuff. I like authentic Chinese because it is telling of where it is from (chilies & Sichuan pepper from Sichuan, chilies & vinegar from Hunan and so on) and like Thai food it tends to walk the tight rope of balance between all of the flavors in a dish. I like duck tongues and daufu and beef tendon. Can we at least agree to distinguish between Chinese-American and Chinese? The difference is tremendous and that way I'll know which places to avoid.....

From Serious Eats

Ibérico Ham: Crazy Good But Worth the Price?

And one other thing...bear with me...I'm on a roll! I have recently tasted the Prosciutto Americano from La Quercia in Norwalk, Iowa. This ham is outstanding....rivalling the best prosciutto from Italy (with the possible exception of the carpegna which, again, I have not had a chance to taste). It is more similar to Jamon Iberico than Prosciutto di Parma in it's porky flavor and silky texture. It is processed from Berkshire-bred pigs in Iowa (pork capital of the US) and less salt is used in the process resulting in a "porkier" taste. If I were to rank all of these I would say 1) Bellota 2) Jamon Iberico/La Quercia in a tie 3) Parma and they are all outstanding!

From Serious Eats

Ibérico Ham: Crazy Good But Worth the Price?

I just finished reading a few more of the posts in this topic and I think a few things need clarification:

Jamon Iberico is not finished on acorns. It is finished on it's normal feed. Bellota is finished on acorns.

Like I said in my previous post....I would skip the bread (and melon and anything else) and enjoy the Iberico on it's own with a few drops of good (ideally Spanish) olive oil. I would certainly precede or follow the ham with the pan con tomate that another poster suggested. Just my opinion.....

From Serious Eats

Ibérico Ham: Crazy Good But Worth the Price?

I just returned from 10 days in Spain. Crazy good wine and food! I was in Madrid, Rioja, Ribero del Duero & Barcelona. On the topic of the price of iberico....I agree with Ed. Order some and see if you like it--keep it simple. I wouldn't even bother with bread. Spread a few thin freshly sliced slices out on a plate and drizzle it with some good olive oil. Get a fork and twirl it on the fork--at room temperature. Put the fork in your mouth and chew slowly...savoring it's deliciousness. I think it trumps Italian prosciutto (although the best of that comes from Le Marche and isn't available in the US yet--carpegna and I have not had it). Bellota is in a league of it's own....unbelieveable! Porky richness and silkiness that has to be tasted to be believed! The finest ham on earth in my opinion!

From Serious Eats: New York

Great Sandwiches and More at Murray's Cheese Shop

I work in the neighborhood and eat those sandwiches all the time. They're filling and delicious. That springy melted mozz-I always ask for my sandwich extra toasty so the cheese oozes and manages to slap my chin.
Love it!
Nobody mentioned the fantastic drinks. How about a local apple cider or thick Ronnybrook chocolate milk to wash it all down.
The lush life.

From Serious Eats

Ibérico Ham: Crazy Good But Worth the Price?

Jamon Iberico is 27 times better than prosciutto ;)

Diet is a majorly contributing factor to the flavor. The chef who oohed and aahed over the jamon and then was less than impressed at the pork chops his farmer dropped off, may have been thinking the US pig ate a lifetime of Liberty corn, the gentically modified, high-starch, low protein food-like product that most American farmers grow for high-fructose corn syrup, ethanol and livestock feed. We are what we eat, I have heard, so we are what our pigs and cattles and chickens eat, too. And for me, these animal products have become far less appealing since I learned about the foods thay are fed.

Will the price come down? Yes, a little bit, when the supply chains are increased. But I wouldn't expect the price to fall by more than 20% (of current dollars) over the next three years. Jamon is very expensive in Spain and there are very few (maybe only one or two) USDA-certified slaughterhouses in Spain.

From Serious Eats

Ibérico Ham: Crazy Good But Worth the Price?

I'll go on record and say I didn't think it was anything special. It was good but it wasn't particularly nutty or 'porky'. $20 for 1/4 pound was overpriced. I'd pay maybe $10.

From Serious Eats: New York

Great New York Burgers I Won't Be Having for Lunch Today

I have 2 words for this....Burger Burger!......Its a little take-out place downtown with some limited seating but its worth the trip.. Just try it and you'll know what I'm talking about.

From Serious Eats: New York

Great New York Burgers I Won't Be Having for Lunch Today

I'm not too sad about missing either burger. I'll admit I've only had Stoned Crow and Royale once each but neither time was I very impressed with either burger. Royale was tasty but small, 6 ounces if I remember correctly. The bun was good but the meat itself was cooked on a flat griddle and mildly spice, if at all, not really enhancing the experience. Fries and onion rings were good at Royale though the orders were also a little small.

I ate at Stoned Crow about 6 months ago and while the burger was hearty and tasty, the bacon, of the pre-cooked and reheated variety, was tough and fatty and kind of hard to bite through. The fries at Stoned Crow were crisp, plentiful and delicious.

I will definitely be giving both places another try but it's tough to want to give Royale another chance due to it's off the beaten path location, but hey, we're foodies right? Neither rain, nor sleet, nor snow....

From Serious Eats: New York

Great New York Burgers I Won't Be Having for Lunch Today

I went to 5 Guys Burgers in Midtown on Thursday for lunch. I found it to be better than the Burger Joint 2 blocks away. The burgers (two patties) was moist and delicious, the fries were awesome, and the counter people were very friendly.

As luck would have it, the Treat Truck was nearby and I got the Caramel Creme cookies, which were amazing.

From Serious Eats: New York

Great New York Burgers I Won't Be Having for Lunch Today

Burgers didn't make it on to my menu yesterday. I ended up going to the Druse restaurant Peter Meehan reviewed in Wednesday's Times on Ninth Avenue. Good, not great, and I will post about it. I also bought six tamales at the Leon Bakery. Sietsema has written that they are the best tamales in New York. They are not, though the spicy cheese tamales were quite tasty. Finally, I finally ate at the sweet tofu place everyone has written about. Interesting stuff, incredibly creamy texture of the tofu, but I'm not sure I feel the need to go back.

From Serious Eats: New York

Great New York Burgers I Won't Be Having for Lunch Today

First of all I understand and appreciate the economic realities of bars and restaurants. Some burger-centric bars, like the Corner Bistro, manage to make lunch work. To me a burger is a quintessential lunchtime repast, so I just think if you're a bar owner with a heralded burger you could make lunch work someway, somehow.

From Serious Eats

Is 'Authentic' Ethnic Food By Definition Better? Does Authentic Trump Delicious?

Mongoose, you are absolutely correct, in that the authenticity of ingredients is only one aspect to the greater authenticity of a cuisine. And you are also correct in pointing out the fetishism associated with ingredients. Spanish ham that costs upwards of $150/lb. Truffles costing upwards of $800/lb. Finger limes. Ramps. Yes, these are delicious, yes they are essential to certain cuisines. But they are only part of the picture. You need both authentic ingredients and authentic preparation by a trained cook, and in some case, even the way the food is served and eaten has bearing on the overall authenticity of the experience.

Such as when eating Ethiopian food. For the authentic experience, diners sit around the mesob, a woven basket like table, upon which is placed a large pancake-like sourdough flatbread called injera. All the dishes are put directly onto the injera. Each diner is given smaller cut pieces of injera bread, and the food is consumed by grabbing it with your own little pieces of bread. No utensils are used. Eating Ethiopian food with silverware at a dinner table, even if the food is perfectly prepared and delicious, falls short of the fully authentic experience.

So, yes, authenticity is a very complex issue. But unlike deliciousness, which remains highly subjective, authenticity can be vetted, using definitions and criteria that everyone can agree on. It takes education, passion and dedication. Something which is seriously lacking in most eaters, who want the familiar, the easy, the gut filling, 99% of the time, and don't really want to be bothered with thinking about what it means to eat food from another culture. Selling food is a business, so there are plenty of people willing to dumb down their culture's food in order to sell it more readily to this demographic.

From Serious Eats

Is 'Authentic' Ethnic Food By Definition Better? Does Authentic Trump Delicious?

Ed, in your post you mention that Chinese food is like pizza in the sense that it morphed into something else when it crossed the ocean and has taken on its own American identity completely separate from its "authentic" roots. I smell another book! We need a "Pizza: A slice of heaven" for Chinese food. I would love to read a thoroughly researched book explaining how Chinese-American and Chinese-Canadian food came to be and discussing the regional differences in what we call "Chinese food" within the US itself.

From Serious Eats

Is 'Authentic' Ethnic Food By Definition Better? Does Authentic Trump Delicious?

I have been fascinated by the range of responses to my original post. Also, I've been generally blown away by the really intelligent twists and turns the comments have taken. I think Mongoose is really on to something:

"Authentic ingredients are wonderful things, but when this becomes
THE central focus, it's easy to lose track of what makes food deeply enjoyable, and it instead becomes a museum piece."

And I, too, would love to hear the Chinese and the Chinese-American perspective on this issue.

From Serious Eats

Is 'Authentic' Ethnic Food By Definition Better? Does Authentic Trump Delicious?

This discussion has covered a lot of ground: it began with an article lamenting the lack of authentic Chinese food in the US: this was rebutted, and the question of authenticity raised. When we get right down to it though, the two fundamental issues remain unresolved:
What is 'authentic' Chinese food?; is it really so scarce in the US?

I freely admit that I don't know, since I've only been up and down the east coast, mostly in urban centres (although I first tried Chinese food in rural western NY), and I'm not familiar enough with Chinese food to be able to vouch for its authenticity, only whether or not it has been carefully prepared.

I would also add that, although being able to find whatever has been identified as 'authentic Chinese food' in only a few urban centres might seem to support the original argument, this is equally true for a good many other cuisines, so perhaps the focus on urban centres is not misplaced at all.

I appreciate authenticity, but it is an elusive quality, because it covers so many different aspects. The argument in favour of DOC and similar appellations is valid, but food is more than a collection of ingredients. One's senses are imprinted with definite sense of what is 'correct' in food, and this shows up not only in the ingredients, but the proportions used, the cooking methods selected, and which criteria are used when substitutions need to be made. Turn an Italian, a Chinese, and a North African loose in identically stocked kitchens with instructions to produce 'a rice dish', and this is easy to see.

It just seems that the focus is being misplaced; authentic ingredients are wonderful things, but when this becomes THE central focus, its easy to lose track of what makes food deeply enjoyable, and it instead becomes a museum piece. And I'm not speaking only abstractly, I'm speaking from the standpoint of someone who grew up with specific and clearly defined cuisine that rests heavily on very characteristic ingredients, and who misses it badly.

Finally, I would really like to hear authenticity in Chinese food defined and debated by the Chinese and Chinese-Americans themselves, in addition to everyone else's certainty of what this 'must' be; I have a feeling there would be some surprises :D

From Serious Eats

Is 'Authentic' Ethnic Food By Definition Better? Does Authentic Trump Delicious?

That may be true to you, seyo. It may be true to others. I'm pretty sure its not true to everyone who read what I wrote, but if so, then I am fairly sure that I would be uninvited to post here, and that has not occurred - though of course it could happen if what I post is in the eyes of Ed (not Fred, Ed) without point or full of nothing. We'll see, I guess.

You are an excellent writer on food issues, seyo - passionate and interested. I hope that, like your parents do with you, if I take my own children to France each year to learn the ways of things gastronomic, they will also be as passionate and interested in this important subject.

From Serious Eats

Is 'Authentic' Ethnic Food By Definition Better? Does Authentic Trump Delicious?

It is now clear to me that you have no point. In real terms, you have said absolutely nothing.

From Serious Eats

Is 'Authentic' Ethnic Food By Definition Better? Does Authentic Trump Delicious?

Looking at the world as it is is my point, seyo.

While you may feel genuinely sorry for people who only have that quality of food at their disposal, and while you are interested in the ontological scale (big word there) you defined, my interest is in what exists non-ontologically but globally in reality and factually (as much as facts can in fact be discerned and agreed upon) in practical terms.

If one thinks of how or whether a thing should be changed, altered, shifted (if it even can be) in a real way - they must look at what exists. Not at metaphysics.

That's my point. If you wish me to cede that your points are ontologically or metaphysically correct, sure, okay. For you they are. Using stark logic they may be.

Did speak outside the box that was set up? For goodness sake, I think I may have. Someone slap me.

I've read the articles you've posted and more. My attitude, however, does not have to be one of an altar boy in a church towards this stuff in order to be a (ahem) Serious Eater.

Cookbooks give recipes.
In order to feed someone, one must know how to cook and then be capable of doing it.

If you want me to cede that Ed is right, okay. Ed is right. If you want me to cede that Fred is right, okay. Fred is right too. (This all reminds me of a children's story about an Ed and a Fred who were friends who had Dr. Seuss-like adventures. "Ed and Fred were friends it started, and then they had hilarious mis-adventures together through the book, as each one had a different way of doing things. One slept in a big bed, one slept in a small bed. One liked this, the other liked something else. Great book, and apt to the conversation. Indeed, if I could remember the name of the book I would not need probably to read this topic, for metaphysically, the subject at hand would be covered.)

Ontologically, if you still don't see what my point is, I am sorry, seyo. I've done my best to explain it in real terms. If it still does not make sense to you, I'm afraid I'll have to live with that fact. I think I can manage to do so.

From Serious Eats

Is 'Authentic' Ethnic Food By Definition Better? Does Authentic Trump Delicious?

Again Karen, you are conflating two different things. Kosher and Halal have nothing to do with the issue being discussed here. Kosher or Halal are authentic only in their Kosher or Halal-ness. They have nothing to do with regional or cultural authenticity. There are myriad Kosher lunch places in midtown, staffed by Hasidic Jews, that serve everything from crepes to pizza to chinese food. None of this food is authentically anything, but it is all Kosher.

Yes, authenticity is something that is normalized by conventions of humans, often government appointed. As far as I know, god has never parted the clouds to tell us unequivocally what makes an authentic buffalo mozzarella.

Designations of authenticity come from both experts in the field, associations of businesses that market a product, and government regulators who seek to protect them. For example, if you drink wine you will notice the AOC label on French wines. It means Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée. It literally means, a sanctioned name of origin. This is a government sanctioned designation to ensure that the Cote du Rhone you are drinking is actually from that region, and not from somewhere else.

This designation matters to me the consumer, and to the producers of wine from that region, neither of us wanting unfair competition from someone else claiming to be from there, but who isnt. Wines are specific to a region. The earth, water and climate impart their qualities to the wine. Even within one small region, quality of the soil and orientation of the field towards the sun can vary enormously, sometimes even from one side of the road going through it to the other. That's why within the Burgundy region alone, for example, you have at least a dozen different appellations (Gevrey-Chambertin, Vosne-Romanée, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Pommard, Meursault, Cote-d'Or, Cote-Rotie, etc etc etc) all within a region barely 100 miles long and 20 miles wide. Yet each one is vastly different from the other. Hence the need for designations.

Italians do it too, theirs is called DOC: Denominazione di origine controllata. So does anyone who produces something of value. You might want to read this article, about how Italian olive oil packers were shipping in oils, often not even from olives, from other countries sometimes as far flung as Afghanistan, then repackaging them and selling them to unsuspecting consumers, often at a great markup, as pure, extra virgin first cold pressed Italian olive oil. Certification of authenticity is actually something that is very important, and your cynical undertones belie an attitude of one who doesnt really care. Are you really a Serious Eater?

As for the "slightly authentic and a little bit delicious", I still don't see what you're getting at. It is what it is. I feel genuinely sorry for people who only have that quality of food at their disposal. That doesnt change the quality of that food within the ontological scale I defined. So again, what is your point?

From Serious Eats

Is 'Authentic' Ethnic Food By Definition Better? Does Authentic Trump Delicious?

seyo, I must also add that if one travels the wide country of the USA, avoiding large cities and just eating wherever one happens to land, the usual thing one will find is "slightly authentic and a little bit delicious" in any category of dining.

As this is the way of life outside large sophisticated vital cities, it is a category to be reckoned with.

I've heard from people who live in other countries that this category exists in some large numbers in their countries also.

In my list, I'd keep it as a category - one very much alive and kicking.

From Serious Eats

Is 'Authentic' Ethnic Food By Definition Better? Does Authentic Trump Delicious?

seyo, you're on a roll. :)

The way that halal and kosher have a relation to authenticity is not in the reality of what they are but that halal or kosher have a certification process with human beings in charge of it and (as someone suggested in an earlier post, which was what that part of my post responded to) "authentic" could also have a certification process with human beings in charge of it.

It is the focus on the process of certification (of authenticity)(or of halal or kosher) that my post spoke to.

It's the "who says so" that is under debate in my mind - I've simply sidetracked the delicious question for Ed summed that up quite well to start with and I could add no more but perhaps a "wooo-oooo! good writing!" and
that had already been said before by the others preceding me.

The "Who Says So" and the "Why They Say So" always lead to the most fascinating stories, at least to my mind.

From Serious Eats

Is 'Authentic' Ethnic Food By Definition Better? Does Authentic Trump Delicious?

Problem is always going to be the definition of authentic. Is it authentic if it's what's served in that country's restaurants today? What about street food, in cultures where that is common?

Or are we looking for what's served in homes in that country today? Or do we have to go back in time? Are we thinking about what the older generations cooked and that the youngsters aren't bothering to make any more? Granny-food? Do we want to go back a couple generations? Back before other cultures intermingled?

Food preferences change. As people learned about other countries and cultures, they brought in new foods and new spices and new ideas and integrated them into their own cuisines. At what point do we stop the progression and say that "this" point it where it was authentic, and beyond that, it is -- what? Fake?

I like good food. I like trying foods from different regions and different cultures. I like to find out what people in other countries cook at home. But when I go to a restaurant, I don't expect them to adhere to someone else's definition of what is right and proper, whether it's some definition of what is authentic, or whether it's local-only or seasonal-only or organic-only or nose-to-tail cooking, or slow food, or any other notion of what is "right." I expect that the restaurant will serve food that is acceptable to the majority of the local clientele, or it won't be around long. And let's face it, unless the restaurant has a large majority of ethnic diners, the food is going to be less than authentic, by anyone's definition.

If it's good food, I'll go back. If I want food cooked or served in a way that isn't available in the local restaurants, I'll find a way to make it at home.

From Serious Eats

Is 'Authentic' Ethnic Food By Definition Better? Does Authentic Trump Delicious?

I didnt forget "slightly authentic and a little bit delicious." That falls right into the spectrum, above. And that's the whole point. "Authentic" and "delicious" are separate criteria that both vary independently. "Slightly authentic and a little bit delicious" is a waste of time, money and calories. It hits no high marks in either criteria. Again, I would go for option A every time. So long as I agreed with and trusted the definition of what was "authentic" and "delicious."

If Ed Levine tells me he thinks it's delicious, then I trust that. If Fred Feretti says it's authentic, I trust that too. Ideally, option A would be the place where Ed thinks the food is delicious and Fred can vouch for it's authenticity. I will concede that deliciousness is more important than authenticity, so if you had to compromise, authenticity would be less important. But I don't believe in compromise. Eat the best of whatever there is to be eaten.

As for halal and kosher, they are about dogmatic hygiene rules, that are largely irrelevant today, to those who are no shackled by dogmatic beliefs of course. For example, eating shellfish and pork a couple thousand years ago was a risky proposition, hence the rules forbidding them. Today, pork and shellfish are good eats. You could use halal or kosher chicken, beef and lamb and make halal or kosher dishes unrecognizable, silly, and perhaps even disgusting, to someone from say, Pakistan, or someone in Williamsburg.

Halal, and kosher don't speak to authenticity of cultural, regional, and/or historic styles of preparation, nor do they speak to deliciousness. They are only about what is allowed and what isn't. Gefilte fish made with yellowtail and served with a yuzu and miso kewpie mayonnaise would not be considered authentic or traditional, even though they would be kosher, and yet would be much much more delicious than the gefilte fish my grandma is used to. To me. Maybe not to my grandmother. Because, guess what? You think authenticity is relative? Well, so is deliciousness.

Halal and kosher have nothing to do with aesthetics. They have to do with rules designed for people who crave to be ruled. And the rules change with the whims of those who hold power. Often regardless of tradition, or authenticity.

From Serious Eats

Is 'Authentic' Ethnic Food By Definition Better? Does Authentic Trump Delicious?

But wait a minute, seyo. You forgot

E. slightly authentic and a little bit delicious

Five is such a nice number, and also important in Japanese cooking.
.............................

Thinking of the suggestion somewhere above that "authentic" be authenticated by a panel of experts who obviously have shown some sort of expertise in some way (scholars? tradespeople? hunter/gatherers? politicians? wheeler-dealers?) I was reminded of an article in Gastronomica titled "How Caviar Turned Out to be Halal" by H.E. Chehabi.

It can be downloaded and read at Gastronomica . It makes for a fascinating inside look at how a food obtains a formalization in terms of acceptance with some sort of stamp of honor on it, such as halal or even perhaps, "authentic".

From Serious Eats

Is 'Authentic' Ethnic Food By Definition Better? Does Authentic Trump Delicious?

Oh, and to Barry, post #1, please take no offense at this, but I found your comment to very depressing. I think you damn well should serve your family the food you eat and consider delicious. I am willing to bet that there are plenty of things you can find in Taiwanese cuisine that would knock their socks off. They are dieing to learn, even if they dont know it. Are you kidding? What an honor that would be! And a great new way to connect with them. Who knows, maybe they'll lose taste for the sweet corn starchy oily Chinese buffet garbage. You have an opportunity here to make their lives better.

From Serious Eats

Is 'Authentic' Ethnic Food By Definition Better? Does Authentic Trump Delicious?

"Authentic" and "delicious" are two completely separate qualities that have no bearing on each other. They can only combine with each other, the total possibilities being:

A. authentic and delicious

B. authentic and not delicious

C. not authentic and delicious

D. not authentic and not delicious

When exploring "ethnic foods," there is more than just deliciousness at stake. It become a bit of an anthropological expedition. You are seeking to understand and commune with a culture other than your own. Thats what the euphemism of "ethnic" means when you say "ethnic food," by the way. So, to that end, option A is the ultimate experience, even when compared to an equally delicious yet not quite authentic experience (option C.)

But, one can always ask also, what is "authentic?" Authentic by whose authority? Whose history?Wars have been fought over this. Does authentic mean it has to be old? Is the avant guarde not authentic yet, faulted for it's newness?

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About kevinpen

Website:

Location: East Hampton

About: I'm a cook

Favorite foods: Pork in all of it's glorious forms, pizza, foie gras, Spanish and Italian cuisines

Last bite on earth: foie or bellota--can't decide