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The Ten Most Recent Posts By kenjialtci

From A Hamburger Today

12 Burgers in 8 Hours, a Burger Bender

Editor's note: Kenji Alt is a food writer for Cook's Illustrated magazine who takes a special interest in burgers. He is also a madman. You might remember his post on The Blumenburger, where he followed Heston Blumenthal's burger recipe, which takes 30 hours, 4 minutes and requires 32 ingredients. He's back, this time with an epic feat that took only 8 hours but seems far more grueling in our book. I mean twelve burgers?

20080824-burgerbingecomp.jpg

Don’t get me wrong. I love living in Boston, and the city’s got a lot to offer, but among those things, there are a few key items that are missing (particularly for a former New Yorker): delis, decent bagels, pizza (I’d settle for even vaguely edible pizza), good hot dogs, and great griddled burgers. Now there are a lot of locals who will disagree with me and point to any number of restaurants that serve acceptable but unremarkable chopped-meat sandwiches. I’ve yet to find one that I don’t take major issue with.

R. F. O’Sullivan is too damn big to eat with your hands. (Why don’t Boston burger joints understand the concept that bigger is not necessarily better?) Once you get past the atmosphere, Bartley’s Burger Cottage patties, while juicy and greasy, are underseasoned, mealy, and frankly, bland. And despite (or because of) UBurger's spurious claim that their burgers are made of fresh ground beef (don’t believe it—they buy preground chuck just like most other places and mix it together with a nominal amount of house-ground stuff), they cook up with that rubbery feel that only an overcompressed, overworked patty gets.

Yes, I have ground beef envy. New Yorkers have been blessed by a burger renaissance, and every couple of weeks, when my slight burger pangs become uncontrollable fits of sandwiched chopped-cow lust, I’m moved to take the 200-mile trip to the city. (Of course, my New Yorker fiancé believes me when I tell her that I’m coming down just to visit her.)

Like an alcoholic who gets wasted the night before jumping on the wagon, I decided to try to cure my burger cupidity by going on a daylong feeding frenzy. A burger bender, if you will: 12 burgers in 8 hours.

Continue reading »

From A Hamburger Today

The Blumenburger — The Most Labor-Intensive Hamburger Ever

Editor's note: Several weeks ago, I got an email from Kenji Alt, a food writer for Cook's Illustrated magazine: "Have you seen Heston Blumenthal's burger recipe in his new book?" The recipe, it turns out, was quite involved, requiring you to make your own buns, create custom cheese slices, and grind the burgers in a most ingenious way. Kenji wanted to try the recipe and write about it for A Hamburger Today. Here are the results. Grab a coffee and start readin'! —Adam

Making the Blumenburger

Making the Blumenburger

England's Heston Blumenthal follows in the footsteps of Spain's legendary Ferran Adrià, in that he attempts to create a cuisine that places a high value on innovation and stimulation of the senses beyond taste. So what happens when one of the most highfalutin' chefs in the world tries to tackle the hamburger, one of the most well-loved yet humble foods in the world?

The Fat Duck, Blumenthal's restaurant one hour west of London, employs molecular gastronomy to produce such dishes as Nitro-Green Tea (a sphere of tea frozen into a capsule tableside in a vat of liquid nitrogen), or drinks that are hot when you sip from one side, cold when you sip from the other.

Interesting, to say the least, but what's it have to do with hamburgers?

Continue reading »

The Ten Most Recent Comments By kenjialtci

From A Hamburger Today

The Pat La Frieda Black Label

That picture above looks like burning flare-ups to me. I find it very difficult to do a great flame-grilled burger with a high fat content. Fat drips, catches on fire, leaving those acrid sooty deposits on the patty. Even good places like Burger Joint that do flame-grilled, high-fat burgers often have that problem.

I wonder how Burger King avoids it... :)

From Recipes

Kenny Shopsin's Sliders

@beachbum

A little different from White manna - White Manna's onions are pressed raw into the meat before it is flipped, though the end result is caramelized onions, similar to what you'd get with these sliders. White manna also doesn't toast their buns before steaming them.

Kenny says the meat in sliders is steamed, yet the meat in these recipes is clearly seared (pressed into a "searing hot" cast iron skillet). Are they true sliders? What're people's opinions - does it still count as a slider if the meat is seared, but the bun and cheese are steamed? I'd say yes - as long as its small, has onions, ground beef, and a steamed bun, then it's still a slider.

From A Hamburger Today

Tonight on 'How I Met Your Mother': Regis Philbin's Quest for the Best Burger in NYC

Nice! I'm glad Philben's with me on the Corner Bistro thing...

From A Hamburger Today

Grilled: J. Kenji Alt

@Duc_m750

It's very hard to offend me - don't worry.

Anchovies have a lot of umami. Among the chef world, it's very common to add a couple of anchovies to a braise or to roasting meat in order to enhance its meatiness (the anchovies basically melt away as they cook, and the end result is not at all fishy as long as you use a light hand with them).

I agree with egg, seasoning, and onion. If I wanted that stuff in there, I'd order a meatloaf sandwich or a meatball sub. I guess I should modify my statement.

Coating fries is a sin in my book akin to adding anything to the patty that changes the basic texture or flavor of ground beef before forming it.

From A Hamburger Today

Grilled: J. Kenji Alt

@Duc_m750

You caught me!

I do add a bit of anchovy to the meat before grinding at home - about half a filet per burger. I don't know why I don't consider it cheating to do this - probably because to me, anchovy is just a seasoning, like salt and pepper - a flavor enhancer. It doesn't change the actual flavor of the burger the way something like worcestershire sauce or onions do, it just adds a bit of umami that makes the beef "beefier," if you know what I mean. I could probably get the same results using powdered msg, but people seem a bit queasier about msg than anchovies.

From A Hamburger Today

Hungry Jack's Quad Stacker Sparks Outrage

I guess either way, the point's clear: meatatarians only.

From A Hamburger Today

Hungry Jack's Quad Stacker Sparks Outrage

No - Robyn's right. If you look at the article, the quote is "HJ doesn't even offer a free salad," the key word being "a"

In UK and Australian English, "salad" refers the the lettuce and tomato you get on a sandwich, but "a salad" is the composed dish that comes on the side. So a "burger with salad" would be a burger with lettuce, onion, beetroot, etc on it, while a "burger with a salad" would be a burger with a salad on the side.

Either way, despite the fact that it's a gross concept, it's frustrating to me to see that the dietitians interviewed think it's an "outrage," as if HJ was trying to make a personal affront to them. They're just trying to sell some damn burgers! If you don't want'em, don't eat'em.

From A Hamburger Today

Grilled: George Motz Redux

@BurgerSeeker
I think you misunderstood. I'm fully in support of using grass fed, provided you can get cuts that are fatty enough, which at least around here, is very difficult. For most people in the country, fatty corn-fed beef is the best burger option in terms of flavor, but hopefully that'll change some time as grass-fed beef gets more support and different, better marbled cuts become more regularly available.

From A Hamburger Today

Grilled: George Motz Redux

@BurgerSeeke

"I've got to ship you a tube of the local grass fed beef"

As unnatural as corn-fed beef is, it doesn't come close to sounding as unnatural as "shipping a tube of beef." Yikes!

I'm mostly with George on this one. If you're sticking with chuck or not grinding your own meat, corn-fed is the way to go. But if you're willing to source nice fatty cuts like short rib or brisket with some of the fat cap attached, you don't have the dryness issue, so you can get grass-fed beef, which does indeed have more flavor.

I'm going to Bogota next week, where they have the most flavorful grass-fed beef I've ever had (haven't made it to argentina or those other big beef-eating south american countries yet), but no real burgers (their burgers are mostly a vehicle for massive amounts of toppings). Maybe I'll make a goal to either find a great burger down there, or at least secure a meat grinder and griddle to make some.

From A Hamburger Today

'The Hamburger: A History' Acrostic Poem Winners

ack. comments were closed at 12:45, I finished my entry at 12:46. Oh well, here's my attempt, 1 minute too late:

Ham
And bacon, I do love,
Meaty gifts from up above.
Big juicy steaks I’m often fed,
Undercooked and bloody red.
Rare lamb chops are a rare treat -
Gnaw the bones and marbled meat.
Even a pork loin will do -
Rubbed with spices, I’ll eat two.
Sausages I do adore,
Austrian Wieners or French Strasbourg.
Rabbit pies and bits of mutton? -
Eat until I burst a button.
But of all the many cuts of meat,
Every mammal fit to eat,
Save some room for the most blessed:
The lowly hamburger is best.

Responses to Comments by kenjialtci

From A Hamburger Today

The Pat La Frieda Black Label

@JudgeFudge: +1. As I like to say, "Just because you have a Ferrari doesn't mean you're Sammy Hagar."

@Kenjialtci: Burger King does it by applying Liquid Smoke laboratory seasonings to the burgers and cooking them in a microwave. HAHAHAH.

From A Hamburger Today

The Pat La Frieda Black Label

Alright fancy pants burger chefs let's not go crazy here with the brioche buns, crazy toppings and kooky sauces. This is a thing of power. Choose wisely...

From A Hamburger Today

The Pat La Frieda Black Label

I prefer flamed vs griddled... Reminds me of a good ol' American backyard bbq. Most of us are waiting with flippers in hand on when can the public buy these or any other La Freida burgers??? They should have a retail butcher shop right there inside their place!!! Build it and and they will come!!! I know Market table use to sell their burgers but I'm not sure if they still do??

From A Hamburger Today

Bobby's Burger Palace

So sad to read this. I live out here and love his "Throwdown" episode on Burgers where he insists the burger must be medium rare.

I think the law is just a lame excuse. If chains like Outback and Boulder Creek will make me a medium rare burger everytime, there is no excuse for this nonsense.

Hopefully Mr. Flay will read this and correct. Otherwise, I'll be at the American Roadhouse a few miles down the road on Rt 25 per the NY Times review.

From Recipes

Kenny Shopsin's Sliders

I made a version of these with miniature King's Hawaiian rolls. They add a nice sweetness.

From Recipes

Kenny Shopsin's Sliders

I made a version of these with miniature King's Hawaiian rolls. They add a nice sweetness.

From Recipes

Kenny Shopsin's Sliders

I hate to ask what might be a silly question, but by chopped meat he means ground beef right?

I am going to attempt these this week for dinner.

From A Hamburger Today

Tonight on 'How I Met Your Mother': Regis Philbin's Quest for the Best Burger in NYC

So I watched the episode and the final destination is not revealed. Is it a real place? IF SO WHERE IS IT? And I loved the shots at Corner Bistro. (I love this show btw. It is... AWESOME!) Especially towards the beginning when the guy at their local bar says "I KNOW THE PLACE" and then tells him it's Corner Bistro and Marshall is all "Gee, thanks, that's totally it, because I've been looking for 8 years and I NEVER THOUGHT TO TRY THE HIGHEST RATED BURGER PLACE ON ZAGAT'S!"... bwahahahaha

From A Hamburger Today

Tonight on 'How I Met Your Mother': Regis Philbin's Quest for the Best Burger in NYC

Heh. As soon as I saw the first 5 minutes of this episode, I raced over here to see if you knew about it. Shoulda known you'd be on it.

So IS Regis Philbin's photo hanging in every burger joint in NYC??

From A Hamburger Today

What's the Best Cheese for Cheeseburgers?

I put blue cheese crumbles, bacon, and diced red onion *in* my burger patties the last time I made burgers and they were heavenly...