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Kate Williams

Kate Williams

Cook the Book Columnist

Kate was raised in Atlanta with an eager appetite. She spent two years as a test cook at America's Test Kitchen before moving out to Berkeley to write, eat, and escape the winter.

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  • Location: Berkeley, CA
  • Favorite foods: Anson Mills grits, soft boiled eggs, kale salad, dark chocolate, and ice kachang.
  • Last bite on earth: Vanilla bourbon caramel truffle from French Broad Chocolates in Asheville, NC

Chilled Spanish White Gazpacho from 'Flour, Too'

Perfect for the hot summer months, gazpacho requires little more than a good blender and some patience during its chilling time. But it doesn't take many bowls of the tomato version to grow tired of slurping enriched vegetable juice. Enter white gazpacho. The Spanish blend of almonds and green grapes is an enlivening break from tomato. This recipe, from Joanne Chang's new cookbook Flour, Too, is a prime example—the fruit and nuts combine with crisp English cucumbers, bright cilantro, and a one-two punch of lime juice and sherry vinegar. More

Roast Lamb Sandwich with Tomato Chutney and Rosemary Goat Cheese from 'Flour, Too'

Joanne Chang begins her recipe for Flour Bakery's lamb sandwich with a series of quotes from customers, like "I have dreams about your lamb sandwich" and, "I want to marry your lamb sandwich." While I'm pretty sure I'd never attempt to run off with a stack of her sandwiches, I can understand the sentiment: This sandwich is a commitment, but one well worth your time. More

Cook the Book: 'Flour, Too'

Between bites of the undeniably gooey sticky buns, perfect chocolate chip cookies, and majestic Boston cream pies, it's easy to forget that Boston's famed Flour Bakery serves more than just sweets. In fact, during my time living in Beantown, I rarely ventured past the sweets display on my visits to Joanne Chang's citywide outposts. But now that I've gotten my hands on Chang's new cookbook, Flour, Too, I can see all that I was missing. More

Sukiyaki in an American Kitchen from 'Hiroko's American Kitchen'

Traditional sukiyaki is a hot pot-style dish of beef and vegetables simmered in a broth of soy sauce, sugar, and mirin. It's a popular meal in Japan, but because of the lack of tabletop cooking vessels in the US, sukiyaki is challenging to replicate here. Hiroko Shimbo's version in Hiroko's American Kitchen drops the hot pot entirely to create a one dish meal more suitable to the American home cook. More

Ramen with Chashu Pork from 'Hiroko's American Kitchen'

Like many big city serious eaters, I enjoy probably more than my fair share of ramen. Until this week, all of these sips and slurps were at restaurants or food trucks; even though I cook almost everything for myself, ramen has always seemed like a dish best left to experts with plenty of time to tend a long-simmered broth. However, when I opened up Hiroko Shimbo's new cookbook, Hiroko's American Kitchen, and saw not one, but two recipes for the noodle soup, I knew I needed to give it a shot. More

Traditional Braised Daikon from 'Hiroko's American Kitchen'

Hiroko Shimbo's braised daikon recipe is one of the few strictly Japanese recipes in her new cookbook, Hiroko's American Kitchen. The dish is a simple appetizer of daikon "slowly bathed" in kelp stock and topped with Shimbo's spicy miso sauce. The sauce—a blend of aged miso, sugar, mirin, sake, lemon juice, and red pepper flakes—provides rich, tangy contrast to the subtle, earthy flavor of daikon. More

Cook the Book: 'Hiroko's American Kitchen'

When you pick up most internationally focused cookbooks these days, you'll usually find a slew of foreign ingredients, cooking techniques, and flavors. Much of the focus is on teaching brand new skills and ideas to broaden the scope of American home kitchens. Cooking from these books requires a big shift in thinking as well as a major shopping trip for all kinds of new ingredients. There's nothing wrong with such culturally specific books, but sometimes a gentler transition between cuisines is welcome. Enter Hiroko Shimbo's new cookbook, Hiroko's American Kitchen. More

Choco-Nacho from 'Ultimate Nachos'

The dessert chapter in Lee Frank and Rachel Anderson's Ultimate Nachos is short and sweet, as it should be. Around half of the sweets aren't nachos per se, but they have flavors in common, like corn and avocado. The other half are, of course, chip-based. For example, these chocolatey nachos take a quick dip in semisweet ganache before being drizzled with goat's milk cajeta—aka caramel sauce with attitude. More

Jerk Chicken Nachos from 'Ultimate Nachos'

Of the many unique recipes in Lee Frank and Rachel Anderson's new cookbook, Ultimate Nachos, the sweet-and-spicy jerk chicken nachos stood out as a must-try. As any spice-fiend knows, jerk marinade is a potent blend of scotch bonnet peppers, allspice, scallions, lime, thyme, and a plethora of other spices. The meat, most often chicken, is grilled to add a serious layer of smoke to the flavor profile. Adding cheese and salsa to build nachos is therefore a balancing act, and Frank and Anderson do it with ease. More

Ball Park Nachos from 'Ultimate Nachos'

Those of us who have spent time at sporting events, movie theaters, or amusement parks have probably eaten our fair share of sad concession nachos. You know, the stale round chips topped with "beef" and neon cheese served from a pump. And while these will certainly fill your belly, they're a far cry from even remotely decent nachos. But making a plate of concession stand-inspired nachos at home transforms a junky meal into something worthy of feeding friends. More

Breakfast Nachos Skillet from 'Ultimate Nachos'

Nachos for breakfast? It may sound strange until you consider that one of the greatest breakfast dishes of all time—chilaquiles—is basically a dressed-up version of nachos. In their cookbook, Ultimate Nachos, Lee Frank and Rachel Anderson offer more than a few tortilla chip-based breakfasts (including chilaqueles, of course). This particular dish, the Breakfast Nachos Skillet, is a take on baked eggs with spinach, mozzarella, and cherry tomatoes. More

Cook the Book: 'Ultimate Nachos'

Have you ever thought to yourself, "Gee, I wish I could eat nachos for every meal of the day, every day of the week"? Or, "I love eating nachos, but melted cheddar and chips gets old after a while"? These simple questions were at the center of the launch of Nachos NY, a website dedicated to sussing out the best that New York's nacho scene has to over. The founders, Lee Frank and Rachel Anderson, have spent the last four years in a nacho-induced food coma, and now they've got a cookbook to show for it. More

Baby Beet Tarte Tatin from 'River Cottage Veg'

This savory tarte tatin is the first recipe I bookmarked when I got my copy of River Cottage Veg and the dish I most anticipated cooking and eating. Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall's take on the French dessert is the perfect example of the wonders of vegetable cookery. Beets—the candy of the vegetable world—are excellent in the role of apples in this tart. Paired with buttery puff pastry and pungent shallot-parsley vinaigrette, they are sweet and savory all at once. Each bite is a treat. More

Caponata from 'River Cottage Veg'

Caponata is one of my favorite dippy things to whip out for summertime entertaining. A tangy sweet-and-sour melange of eggplant, tomatoes, and briny olives, the dish plays well with summer staples like grilled bread, grilled chicken, and grilled...well, anything. This version, from Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall's version in River Cottage Veg, calls for an ingredient that I'd never thought to include in my caponatas: chocolate. More

Cucumber and Lettuce Vichyssoise from 'River Cottage Veg'

Chilled potato-leek soup, or Vichyssoise, is an excellent budget dish to have up one's sleeve. At its most basic, the soup's humble ingredients combine to form a silky, luxurious meal far greater than the sum of its parts. The velvety green soup in River Cottage Veg contains not only the potatoes and leeks, but also a couple of cucumbers and heads of butter lettuce as well. The greenery adds a refreshing touch and brilliant color to the soup, and the dollop of creme fraiche at the end is the perfect tangy-rich note to finish. More

Arugula, Fennel, and Green Lentil Salad from 'River Cottage Veg'

As Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall grumbles in River Cottage Veg, arugula has become too popular for its own good. The bitter green has become so ubiquitous in salad mixes that it's hard to appreciate arugula's ability to support a salad on its own. Fearnley-Whittingstall's arugula-fennel-lentil salad is an attempt to celebrate the green on its own merit. The crunchy anise notes of the fennel and earthy lentils indeed balance the peppery notes of the lettuce, and the bright lemon zest enlivens and lifts the mix. More

The Hugo Cocktail from 'The Lee Bros. Charleston Kitchen'

Inspired by and named for the infamous hurricane that wrecked the Carolina coast in 1989, Matt and Ted Lee's Hugo cocktail is just as fierce as its namesake. At its core, the beverage is a riff on a Dark and Stormy, but it uses a serious dose of fresh ginger juice instead of the soda. The juice (plus the rum, of course) is strong enough to distract the drinker from any storm heading inland. More

Shrimp and Grits from 'The Lee Bros. Charleston Kitchen'

A seamless union of land and sea, shrimp and grits just may be the perfect example of lowcountry cuisine. Briny shrimp tossed in butter, cream, or tomato-y gravy are a graceful foil to sweet, earthy grits. The dish itself has been around at least since the early 20th century and as such has spawned many variations. Some are totally bare-bones, containing only shrimp, butter, and grits, while others include bacon, tomatoes, and spice. Matt and Ted Lee's version in The Lee Bros. Charleston Kitchen is more akin the latter. More

Matt's Four-Pepper Collards from 'The Lee Bros. Charleston Kitchen'

The four-pepper collards in Matt and Ted Lee's new cookbook, The Lee Bros. Charleston Kitchen, was inspired by the peppery taste of the plant's budding tips. A plethora of greens are stewed with a piquant mix of red jalapeño, poblano, smoked paprika, and a generous grind of pepper. Cooked for the better part of an hour, the greens develop a supple, tender texture with a pleasant undercurrent of heat. More

Chilled Spanish White Gazpacho from 'Flour, Too'

@Desert Dryad: The almonds (as well as the cucumber and grapes, to a certain extent) are supposed to stay a little chunky. You definitely want to keep a varied texture.

Traditional Braised Daikon from 'Hiroko's American Kitchen'

@simon: Hiroko says that daikon is traditionally braised in liquid leftover from rinsing rice in order to leech bitter flavors out of the radish. The rice packet is used in place of the rice-water. The sugar is important to balance out the spicy miso, so I wouldn't cut the sweetener element out completely. You could probably substitute agave or a mild honey (keeping in mind that these are both sweeter than sugar).

Traditional Braised Daikon from 'Hiroko's American Kitchen'

@Lizzie Mabbott: Hiroko says that daikon is traditionally braised in liquid leftover from rinsing rice in order to leech bitter flavors out of the radish. The rice packet is used in place of the rice-water.

Cucumber and Lettuce Vichyssoise from 'River Cottage Veg'

@csbrown: The soup makes a good starter for most light summer meals, or as lunch with salad and bread. As far as the color goes, I had no problems with it staying green when I followed the directions. I did use a light colored veggie stock (homemade, leftovers from another project), and you're right that it was probably the biggest determining factor in the soup's color. Did you peel the potatoes? What color was your lettuce? I erred on the side of bigger rather than smaller heads of lettuce and that probably helped as well.

Tostadas de Jaiba en Salpicon from 'Ultimate Nachos'

@plazmaorb: Sorry about that. Typo fixed!

Ball Park Nachos from 'Ultimate Nachos'

@Desert Dryad. The link to the recipe can be found at the bottom of the post. There are lots of components so they're listed individually. Here's another copy of the link: http://www.seriouseats.com/recipes/2013/06/ball-park-nachos-from-ultimate-nachos.html

Breakfast Nachos Skillet from 'Ultimate Nachos'

Thanks for the suggestion @monopod!

Strawberry Fruit Roll-Ups from 'Classic Snacks Made from Scratch'

@Amanda V.W.: I don't know much about agave substitutions, but I think you could probably try it. I'd use a little less than the amount for sugar, and you may need to cook it longer in order to evaporate the excess liquid.

Matt's Four-Pepper Collards from 'The Lee Bros. Charleston Kitchen'

@itshissong: Yes, you can use fresnos. I think most grocery stores mis-label red jalapenos and fresnos, so it's usually a toss-up what you're getting anyway. Red is just a nice color all amongst the green!

Shrimp and Grits from 'The Lee Bros. Charleston Kitchen'

@C Baughn and kengk: As far as I know, the most "traditional" (read: oldest) recipe is called breakfast shrimp, and it is simply shrimp sauteed in butter served on plain, buttery grits.

Shrimp and Grits from 'The Lee Bros. Charleston Kitchen'

@Agnes: I've provided the grits ingredients and procedure as a separate recipe to keep things streamlined. Click on the link above in the ingredients labeled "Charleston Hominy." Sorry for the confusion.

Seared Short Rib Wraps from 'Family Table'

@Glows: I used boneless short ribs, and sliced them across the grain 1/3 inch thick. The picture is a little unclear, but I think they're boneless, as listed in the recipe.

Turmeric Chicken with Sumac and Lime from 'The New Persian Kitchen'

@blepharisma: I went back and double-checked in the book, and Shafia does indeed use 1 tablespoon of salt here. However, she does specify in the intro that she uses fine-grain sea salt (a bit more coarse than table, less coarse than kosher). The 1 tablespoon in this recipe is also used to season, so some of it inevitably will get lost on the baking sheet—or at least that was my experience.

Lamb Bolognese from 'Family Table'

@scalfin: You can just skip the dairy at the end. @Pintchow is right that the extra dairy is not totally necessary. Maybe drizzle some good extra virgin olive oil on top to serve if you're looking for that final bit of richness.

Green Herb and Kidney Bean Stew (Ghormeh Sabzi) from 'The New Persian Kitchen'

@lazy_lurker: You could use fresh lime juice, but if you've got access to a Middle Eastern grocery, you should be able to find them.

Turmeric Chicken with Sumac and Lime from 'The New Persian Kitchen'

@PoorOldMama: Sumac is a tangy ground spice that adds acidity (and fun purple color) to dishes. I've found it in the spice aisle at my awesomely inclusive grocery store. If you've got it in your store, it'll probably be next to other Middle Eastern ingredients. If not, a trip to a speciality store or amazon.com will help you find it. Otherwise, an extra couple of squeezes of lemon or lime will work as a reasonable substitute.

Garlicky Eggplant and Tomato Spread (Mirza Ghasemi) from 'The New Persian Kitchen'

@justin h: Shafia calls for a 16-ounce can of crushed, which is around 2 cups.

King of Falafel & Shawarma's Falafel from 'New York a la Cart'

@i8thecat: I am not sure about the origin of the discrepancy you noticed. The recipe posted here is the exact one in 'New York a la Cart.' I'd guess that he gave a different recipe to the authors than the one on his site. I do think that cilantro or those additional spices would be good additions, so perhaps this is a good place to experiment!

King of Falafel & Shawarma's Falafel from 'New York a la Cart'

@Linhners and @sparemethecensor: Pan-frying would be your next best option to deep frying. That said, this mixture is a little loose, so you'll need to tread carefully. Use a generous pour of oil and a nonstick or cast-iron skillet.

@PSFam: I like your meat grinder idea. I'll have to try it next time!

@NWcajun: No recipe for their tahina in the book, but PSFam's sounds like a good place to start.

@creative-juices: Yes, the chickpeas do indeed finish cooking in the fryer. Magic!

Deborah Madison's Cauliflower with Saffron, Pepper Flakes, Plenty of Parsley, and Pasta

@lazy_lurker: I did indeed use the full 1 teaspoon of pepper flakes. The heat was definitely apparent in the final dish, but I didn't find it overpowering.

@violarulz/ducksandbooks: Great idea!

Deborah Madison's Ivory Carrot Soup with a Fine Dice of Orange Carrots

@Mr. Nick: Yes! The rice gets blended up with everything else, so its starch and extra body make the soup a bit thicker.

Shredded Pork in Ancho-Orange Sauce (Chilorio) from 'Pati's Mexican Table'

@asterik: A great bonus indeed! And thanks for pointing out the note about the salt. I too increased the salt a bit, but forgot to mention that in the write-up.

Shredded Pork in Ancho-Orange Sauce (Chilorio) from 'Pati's Mexican Table'

@Flynnster: Browning the pork before simmering isn't necessary with this method. It'll brown up in its rendered fat as the water evaporates.

Scallion Pancakes from 'The Chinese Takeout Cookbook'

@Evelyn: I like a simple mixture of soy, mirin, and sesame oil.

Beef with Broccoli from 'The Chinese Takeout Cookbook'

@jimk9: Using baking soda to blanch the broccoli instead of salt will keep the broccoli green without adding additional salty flavor to the dish. There is plenty of saltiness in the sauce to season the broccoli once it is added to the skillet.

@mnrobb: When I made the dish, it ended up much saucier than in the book photograph. Also, I thought it tasted great.

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