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New White Diamond Now Open in Rahway, New Jersey (And Another To Reopen)
Jesus Christ! This is some of the best news I've heard in years! 2009 will go down as an Annus Mirabillis for hamburgers.
The Secret Ingredient (Liquid Smoke): Smoky Bison Sandwiches
Liquid smoke is one of the most revolting substances known to man, and anathema to any real cook.
Top 5: Nick Solares' Favorite Burgers in New York City
On the whole I agree with this list, except for JG Melon, which is actually a pretty poor product. Nick has a sentimental spot for old time places the same way I do but I don't think their burger can compete with the ones he lists. (Nor for that matter can PJ Clark's, Molly's, Donovan's, etc.)
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Recent Comments | Response to Comments
Roberta's the 'Best Naples-Style Pizza'? Really, Village Voice?
I like Roberta's because it's not a Naples-style pizza. The crust has heft and substance without being doughy, and it can support itself rather than just turning into a revolting mass of wet dough at the center. Also, the lunch pie at Roberta's is magnificent -- more of a bread than a pizza, but so what? It's what Co should have been like.
New White Diamond Now Open in Rahway, New Jersey (And Another To Reopen)
Jesus Christ! This is some of the best news I've heard in years! 2009 will go down as an Annus Mirabillis for hamburgers.
The Secret Ingredient (Liquid Smoke): Smoky Bison Sandwiches
Liquid smoke is one of the most revolting substances known to man, and anathema to any real cook.
Top 5: Nick Solares' Favorite Burgers in New York City
On the whole I agree with this list, except for JG Melon, which is actually a pretty poor product. Nick has a sentimental spot for old time places the same way I do but I don't think their burger can compete with the ones he lists. (Nor for that matter can PJ Clark's, Molly's, Donovan's, etc.)
Top 5: Nick Solares' Favorite Burgers in New York City
I think Nick needs to get to the little owl. Joey will make him the rare burger he loves this time. I'd also be interested in seeing if Bill's makes the list, either with the standard Bill's burger or the Fatcat, which I got to try yesterday and which was sort of an overwhelming experience.
Schoop's: My Most Craved Burger Near Chicago
This hideous, bukake-like photo doesn't begin to do justice to Schoop's. Please put one that doesn't have all that revolting garbage on top. Thanks!
A Different Kind of Slider at White Rose System in Highland Park, New Jersey
It's called "system" as an allusion to the White Castle System, which all these places were ripoffs of. White Castle was the first chain restaurant, and the idea of a "system" was so novel that they (and their imitators) boasted about it.
Locanda Verde: The Best Breakfast in New York?
Why doesn't he make some bacon or pancetta? Those muffins are for women. Make a frittata di pasta or something with some balls, at least!
Artisan Scrapple at Williamsburg's Egg
I have it in the works! But you don't need to like the creamy interior...I am a lifelong scrapple enthusiast and never want any bit of it to be creamy. I press it flat in the pan and Egg should too. At the very least it should be firm throughout. Nobody wants creamy pork liver.
Behind the Scenes Look at Smith and Wollensky's Prime Rib
This is a great post about a mediocre meal...I had that steak the other night, and it's that's prime, I'll eat my hat. To be fair, I hate prime rib so you can't go by me, but I didn't taste any aging at all, either. Nice photography though.
Secrets of Minetta Tavern's Black Label Burger
I am agog at the greatness of this feature. Nick may just have graduated from being a mere "Cutlet Cadet" and into a true colleague and brother in burgerdom. I hereby do admit English Nick Solares into the Brethren of Burgertude, with all rights and privilges thereunto! Great work, Nick. This is a a classic.
David Chang Character Approved Award Video: Food Is 'Life and Death For Me'
Did anybody notice that when he talks about his burns, he doesn't actually have any?
Top Ten 'Hamburgers That Matter for New York City'
Stand is much better than BRGR...and Stand wasn't good enough to make the list. There are almost no grilled burgers on the ist -- although the Number One burger is a grilled one, strangely enough. I can't figure it out.
Josh Ozersky on 'Nightline': 'Fancy Burgers Are Cheaper Than Pizza'
I think we can all cede the point, however, that the cost of a black label burger is, if not comparable to a large pie, less than many disposable, crappy NY food experiences. Let's not say a pizza. Let's say it's less than a club sandwich at a diner, or a fried chicken meal at the port authority, or a club sandwich at TGI Fridays or whatever. And it's much less than any comparable elite experience, i.e. steak at luger, pizza at UPN, bbq at Hill Co., and etc.
Josh Ozersky on 'Nightline': 'Fancy Burgers Are Cheaper Than Pizza'
two slices is not "a pizza." Nor is three. A standard sized pizza from any NY pizzeria will set you back a good $18 or $20 or more, if you get stuff on it. I'd like to know where these $14 pizzas are -- probably in Brooklyn somewhere, and not in Manhattan, or at places like Dominos, where you're looking at $16 for a plain pie, $2 for a handful of vile floppy pepperonis, and another $2 for tax.
Josh Ozersky and Hamburgers on 'Nightline'
Thank you, though, for taking my assertions seriously enough to challenge in such a thoughtful way. We need to eat hamburgers again soon. A road trip to Hildebrandt's, maybe.
Josh Ozersky and Hamburgers on 'Nightline'
Adam, I agree with much of what you're saying -- I devote a chapter to the recrudscence of the burger in the early oughts in the closing chapter of my book The Hamburger: A History. I was speaking more about the current state of burger glory, which as a nationwide phenomenon, surely can't be credited to La Frieda. (On the other hand, the places George Motz celebrates in Hamburger America are by definition those ones that owe nothing to current fashions.) I believe the DB burger to have bee a false start. The Shake Shack started the current era of burger domination, and with it the La Frieda hegemony. (Or rather, hamburgemony.) Soon everyone will be using griddles on their burgers, paint scrapers, martins potato buns, and otherwise aping the shack. But if they don't use a custom blend of the very highest caliber, whether LaFrieda or otherwise, I don't think they'll ever rival its popularity.
Josh 'Mister Cutlets' Ozersky on 'Nightline' Tonight
I can't wait to watch this!
The Black Label Blend Shines at City Burger
Before I hand over my meat-writing crown of thorns, consider who told English Nick about black label, and for that matter, who told the world about it. I did enjoy this post though. A lot. I actually ate in City Burger for a Nightline segment that may air as early as tomorrow, and boy, was it good. Nick is right about it not needing cheese. Certainly it needs no condiments.
Pat La Frieda's Black Label Blend Coming to City Burger in Times Square
The restaurant has been open for months...come in and try it on friday, Nick! I will be there with some fellow meat-men.
A Visit to Pat La Frieda Wholesale Meats
Great post! The info on the black label is wrong, though. The mix Pat told Nick about was an early version of Black Label. But it really is great. They should never have dialed back the fat; the flareup was because it was cooked on a grill instead of the griddle God intended.
At Veselka, Forgo the Borscht and Get the Burger
This is a beautifully observed appreciation of my favorite burger. It's so strange that Veselka should be that good. It's not LaFrieda meat, it's not cooked on a flattop...it's not this and it's not that, but all it is is perfect. It's like when you meet the girl you're meant to be with, and she looks nothing like you ever would have expected.
'Top Chef' Contestant Lisa Fernandes Hates Your Poor Blogger Ass
Beware the gaze of the Gorgon!
Top 5: Nick Solares' Favorite Burgers in New York City
glad to see HB in there...i was afriad i was the only one who dug their burger. they get mucho points for using the potato roll too!
Roberta's the 'Best Naples-Style Pizza'? Really, Village Voice?
@seriouspizza I'm going to do my best to avoid such occurrences, but I'm sure they will be impossible to dodge completely. When those times do come, I will do my best to betray my Brooklyn instincts by channeling the Slicemeister.
Ciao,
Paulie Gee
Roberta's the 'Best Naples-Style Pizza'? Really, Village Voice?
Thanks Adam .I admire your honesty.It had bugged me for a while thinking that you had the luxury of doing a hatchet job of a review and then seemingly,unapologetically pulling it after the damage was done .Hindsight is 20/20 and though I'm neither a journalist nor restaurateur I think that the ethical and courteous thing to have done would be to have left the Story Header and put up a footnote disclaimer such as the explanation you have given here.
Yours respectfully,
seriouspizza
@Paulie Gee.....I look forward to seeing how you handle such a situation,should anyone EVER give your output such negative scrutiny.....being from Brooklyn and all !
Roberta's the 'Best Naples-Style Pizza'? Really, Village Voice?
The most important judgement is now in and Roberta's stands at the pinnacle of pizzadom. As part of Sean Taylor's annual celebration of National Pizza Month, he has awarded them a perfect five pies. Check it out at www.31daysofpizza.com . While you are there, be sure to check out Day 3.
Ciao,
Paulie Gee
Roberta's the 'Best Naples-Style Pizza'? Really, Village Voice?
@Slicemeister You have a talent for handling criticism with class and restraint. You obviously didn't grow up in Brooklyn.
Ciao,
Paulie Gee
Roberta's the 'Best Naples-Style Pizza'? Really, Village Voice?
@seriouspizza: I removed the review because it wasn't a fair review. It was a bad piece of "pizza journalism." If you'll recall, my pie was woefully undercooked to the point of having raw dough. I should have sent it back and asked for a properly cooked pie. And I needed to visit a couple more times to see whether that was an anomaly or how they usually roll. It basically turned into a hit piece without giving them a fair shake. So, yeah, that was a low point—a breach of trust—and if I've lost you as a reader, it's my own fault.
Oh, and about Sietsema, though I "have great respect for Robert and his work," I'm not afraid of him, and his review was the last thing I had in mind when I pulled my "review."
Roberta's the 'Best Naples-Style Pizza'? Really, Village Voice?
@Adam Kuban "way before anyone of his stature took the site seriously. I've always remembered that and have had great respect for Robert and his work."
Adam,is that why you pulled the less than favorable review of Saraghina : A First Visit to Saraghina, Bed-Stuy, Brooklyn around 8/18/09 when he published a somewhat gushing commentary on that very same day? Did you fear your diametrically opposed opinions less credible than a blogger of his stature ? Maybe that is the point I should have stopped reading or at least taking your opinions seriously ?
http://www.villagevoice.com/2009-08-18/restaurants/please-welcome-saraghina/#Comments
Roberta's the 'Best Naples-Style Pizza'? Really, Village Voice?
Maybe the distinction should not be Naples style vs NY style anymore since apparently Naples gets confounded on the boat ride over here. Maybe it should just be Classic vs new New York. Just lump them all together. and then classic slices would be another category. lombardis vs keste vs sal&carmines . I'm just saying.
Roberta's the 'Best Naples-Style Pizza'? Really, Village Voice?
My knee jerk reaction was probably exactly what Sietsema had desired ! I stand corrected about him eating pizza in Naples.In his original V V article that you referenced, he sounds as though he liked what he had in Naples ( "Sublimely bland" ) and IMO the whole piece on Roberta's is a machiavellian piece of journalism,that only contributes in a less than desirable way to the confusion over Neapolitan pizza and peoples understanding of what it really is.I must say,I have a problem with evaluating "Spirit" when it comes to pizza?.
Regarding the price structure of Neapolitan pizza in the US,I applaud UPN for having the balls to charge such exorbitant prices for his product and allowing New Yorkers the indulgence of supporting him in maintaining his limited work hours,and single handedly spearheading a change for restaurant employees. I hope he charges $50 in San Francisco.It would be refreshing to think that there are people out there more foolish with their hard earned money than gullible east coast foodies.A $10 Marinara seems obscene in Manhattan these days.How is a business supposed to survive?
Roberta's the 'Best Naples-Style Pizza'? Really, Village Voice?
Good points all.....as long as the pizza has good balance of flavors and textures between crust, sauce, cheese and whatever else is on the pizza, then style is much less a concern for me. --K
Roberta's the 'Best Naples-Style Pizza'? Really, Village Voice?
@seriouspizza: Wha? I'm going to defend Robert Sietsema here. He has indeed eaten pizza in Naples and was in fact kind enough to contribute to Slice very early on with a photo essay of pizza in Napoli—and this was way before anyone of his stature took the site seriously. I've always remembered that and have had great respect for Robert and his work.
I myself have not eaten "the true pie of Naples." As I've said elsewhere, it's a serious hole in my pizza game. (@seriouspizza: You can stop reading Slice at this point.) But when I started Slice it was less about "Naples-style" pizza and more about kick-ass New York–style pizza. (Lately, with the Neapartisan pizza trend sweeping the nation, I've probably focused too much on Neapolitan and "artisan" pies. I know some readers have dinged me for that.) Anyway, I think Sietsema is partially correct: If you get a Neapolitan Margherita from a pizzeria that has a flavorless dough and a dull sauce, that thing is going to be unbelieveably bland. When I find myself eating pies like that, I yearn for some inventive toppings to ease the pain.
Shinolally yours,
Adam
Roberta's the 'Best Naples-Style Pizza'? Really, Village Voice?
erm...price, quality and taste....yeah taste - I forgot about that one!
Roberta's the 'Best Naples-Style Pizza'? Really, Village Voice?
@seriouspizza
Easy there! Not everyone digs the neapolitan style. Although it is strange for a writer who shows a distinct lack of love for the style to write about what they deem to be 'Best Naples Style Pizza'. Does the title even mean anything at that point?
The use of quotation marks as well as the context (rest of the article) indicates the writer was talking about the trend of neapolitan pizza in NY. What seems to have been the main thrust of the blurb, was their opinion that 'naples style' is being used to sell a more expensive pizza
It's a fair point that in a crowded market, terms like 'authentic neapolitan' are now common currency used to justify the existence and alleged ethos of any given 'neapolitan style' pizzeria.
I suspect these claims of authenticity are a red herring (which Napoletanaphiles get easily hung up on) when price and quality should be the real issues for any place that makes and sells pizza.
Roberta's the 'Best Naples-Style Pizza'? Really, Village Voice?
Moreover, the "true pie of Naples" is almost unbelievably bland....................
That sentence alone cements my belief that this clown ( as too many other commentators ) masquerading as a food journalist has probably never eaten Pizza in Naples,and wouldn't know shit from shinola.
Roberta's the 'Best Naples-Style Pizza'? Really, Village Voice?
With you on this Adam. Went there a few months ago and was not impressed with the pizza either. Not bad, and certainly a nice atmosphere in that back garden, but I can think of a dozen better places off the top of my head.
Roberta's the 'Best Naples-Style Pizza'? Really, Village Voice?
After Chowhound picks Co. as "Best Pizza Ever!" and now this, I totally see Adam's point- it's more lucrative to single out a lesser-known fringe spot than the well-known obvious favorites. Is this just naivety or a lapse in culinary journalism in exchange for subscriptions?
The Secret Ingredient (Liquid Smoke): Smoky Bison Sandwiches
Liquid smoke needs to be used (very) sparingly in order to be effective. Otherwise, too much will absolutely ruin a dish.
I'll just wet my finger with it and rub lightly on a steak or burger I'm cooking indoors.
I like making a hickory sauce for burgers using, mayo, ketchup, sweet relish and a small amount of liquid hickory smoke to to complete the sauce.
My brand of choice: "Figaro" Hickory liquid smoke.
The Secret Ingredient (Liquid Smoke): Smoky Bison Sandwiches
As I commented on another one of your liquid smoke articles, I think the stuff is great and have been using it (SPARINGLY) for years. Most recently I've used it in faux barbecue (that's the noun "barbecue," sometimes called "pulled pork" by Yankees). I've also made many holiday gift salamis in my oven that had been smoked with liquid smoked mixed in the meat. Few people can tell the difference.
I wonder whether meat, such as sausage, made with liquid-smoke would have more or fewer carcinogens in it that the same product that was naturally smoked?
The Secret Ingredient (Liquid Smoke): Smoky Bison Sandwiches
Liquid smoke used incorrectly is disgusting, used correctly it can be quite good. Most of your commercially prepared processed meats use liquid smoke as either an internal application to the meat, or through a variety of different topical applications. This is due to environmental laws around the US making it illegal or extremely expensive to naturally smoke meats.
For this recipe, I would cut the liquid smoke with water and shorten the marination time. Also, as liquid smoke is quite acidic, you can cut the acidity with a little baking soda to make it a little less harsh. Run it through a coffee filter to remove any tars that have formed in the smoke due to storage, this is where much of the bitterness comes from.
Top 5: Nick Solares' Favorite Burgers in New York City
I have had all of these burgers and you are high off your ass if you don't think Shake Shack is the BEST burger in the universe.
Top 5: Nick Solares' Favorite Burgers in New York City
Thoughts about Old Town Bar's burger? Maybe just because it's near my office, but they do a great one at the bar.
Dallas BBQ: Boldly Going Where No Other Food Writer Has Gone Before
As a self-respecting Texan I will never step foot in that place. Sorry, just can't do it especially with other places as easily accessable (but admittedly more expensive). The chicken looked dry - I would have liked a description of the actual meat because I can bet it's dry as a bone. THAT is what separates the real from the fake in fried chicken.
I have to agree with everyone else and say good on you for reviewing somewhere as overlooked (whether I think that is a blessing or not) as Dallas BBQ.
Dallas BBQ: Boldly Going Where No Other Food Writer Has Gone Before
Ha, I can't believe you did a review of BBQ. Pretty awesome of you guys. I've eaten at a bunch of them and I'm of the opinion that the food isn't particularly tasty, but I think the biggest draw for a lot of people is the "bowl-drinks," as my friends and I call them.
I'm not sure, but wasn't the now closed 8th street location NOT a true Dallas BBQ? I think I heard several times that they were an imitation, and I remember the name being just "BBQ" and not "Dallas BBQ." However, if it WAS a Dallas, then if they were still open they'd have to bring down the cleanliness score here---I once had a roach crawl onto my table. I work in restaurants, and I'm aware that keeping pests out of NYC establishments is a daunting task, but that was unacceptable.
Dallas BBQ: Boldly Going Where No Other Food Writer Has Gone Before
Thanks for posting this. I'm in that neighborhood a couple of times a month, and although the aromas from the place are heavenly, I had heard otherwise.
I'll be there next time I'm in Chelsea.
Dallas BBQ: Boldly Going Where No Other Food Writer Has Gone Before
Yes, the 8th Street/University Place site was a destination for us in high school (c. 1986) - it was cheap and fun. I recall the W.72nd street one being slightly nicer than the others. Never had a problem with the food - I think the last time I sampled it was after a friend and I did a "Race for the Cure," and we went to the one on 73rd and 3rd; we were starving. The onion loaf was always great, but prepare to lock yourself away for several hours afterwards.
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I like Roberta's because it's not a Naples-style pizza. The crust has heft and substance without being doughy, and it can support itself rather than just turning into a revolting mass of wet dough at the center. Also, the lunch pie at Roberta's is magnificent -- more of a bread than a pizza, but so what? It's what Co should have been like.