Saro Bistro is as personal a restaurant as you will likely find in New York in 2012, the singular vision of Eran Elhalal. In a ćevapčići-sized room, Elhalal serves "the cuisine of long lost empires." For him, that's the Austro-Hungarian and Ottoman-inflected Balkan comfort food his grandmother (whose nickname graces the restaurant) served him while growing up in Israel. It's a complicated, delicious backstory, and one he's happy to share. More
Dickson's uses the real stuff to make its Slim Jakes and flavored jerky ($15 / half-pound). More
Follow the crowds to the stand on Wednesdays, Fridays, or Saturdays, make an informed decision by trying all the samples, and then just not to eat the whole bag right there. We'll wager you can't. More
The restaurant serves as a solid go-to spot for those lucky enough to live in or near the gorgeous Victorian manses that populate this neighborhood. With its satisfactory takes on gastropub staples, minus the haughty 'tude, Ox Cart Tavern is best for: a humble Brooklyn date. More
Hopefully the arrival of Anjappar heralds a further separation of Indian food into regions. In recent years, Chinese restaurants in New York City have been replaced by Yunnan, Szechuan, and Fujian ones. So too might Indian restaurants diversify beyond North Indian, South Indian, and Kosher Vegetarian. Anjappar is a good step in that direction. With its romantic decor and intense seasonings, it's best for: a hot date. More
We had a great table nestled near the window, tucked around the bar. Other tables offer a more communal experience, with high-backed chairs and the ebb and flow of fellow diners' conversations and gustatory issuances. Go ahead and make a reservation: you'll be glad you did. With its barefaced rusticity and evocative food, Convivium Osteria is best for: a date that feels right. More
Mama Meena's takes the "family restaurant" part of its name seriously. When we visited, kids sat in the corner and watched cartoons while their parents took orders. The walls are the color of a farm kitchen in the Midwest, the tablecloths checked. The restaurant puts you in a mood, but not the mood. Here, happy eating isn't a cliché. It's best for: a date whose frown you'd like to turn upside down. More
After an hour, we reached our unscientific conclusion: people come for the crepes, and stay for the comfortable albeit lively atmosphere. If music had been playing, we couldn't hear it over the low, pleasant rumble of conversation, like the subway gently idling outside of the station. Le Grainne Cafe has an open kitchen, creamed corn-colored walls and pressed tin ceilings, as well as a solid selection of French staples. It's best for: a date who stands out in a crowd. More
We didn't expect much, to be honest, given that sandwiches get made in a corner, near where they keep bar towels and growlers. The sandwich starts with two hunks of ciabatta, onto which go some sprouts as well as several slicks of prosciutto (the pig) and several of goat cheese (the goat). But what elevates this sandwich is the slick you can't see: a hefty layer of apricot jam. Its tart-sweetness countervails the salty ham and cool cheese, each bite a wicked pastiche of expectations way, way surpassed. More
It's hard to be elegant when you're shouting down the table to be heard, and the polished concrete floors only apply sound. Better to huddle beneath the ghost-white branches, sipping sake and swapping stories. If you must, text discretely with a slim phone. 1 or 8 is best for: a date with an aesthete. More
Be prepared to sit among regulars and to wait while the servers go through the precise merits of the wine list with anyone who asks. With its itty-bitty charm and straightforward cooking, Heidi's House is best for: a date who makes you feel at home. More
La Cabana is a respite from the car shops, large grocery stores, and other signs of modernity in this particular part of Jackson Heights. More
Calyer looks sharp and (mostly) succeeds in originality. It's best for: a date with an explorer. More
In Rajasthan, as in so many parts of India, variety makes the meal. Thalis rule, and the large silver plate will often have several little portions of stews made from legumes, vegetables, and grains; bread; a sweet treat; and occasionally a meat dish, such as mutton or chicken. More
If you read a lot of Indian novels, you'll know that people sometimes use "veg" and "nonveg" as shorthand for "tame" and "sexy," respectively. But as we ate our way across Mumbai, through Rajasthan, and into central India, we discovered that when it came to food, the opposite was true. The vegetarian fare we ate was so much better, so much fresher, and so much more interesting than the nonvegetarian offerings. Here are some highlights from a month of eating around India: chaat, pakoras, samosas, papad, and more. More
Pars tends to play it safe. There's an in-house belly dancer named Valeri, according to the website, but she only comes out on Saturdays. The menu offers a strong selection of proteins, but mostly in the form of kebabs. Some boldness appears in the decor, via white-washed walls adorned with sparkly vests and caps, lamps bedecked in intricate beadwork, and a long bench covered in woven cloth. Perhaps keeping it mild is a political strategy as much as a culinary one here. More
Occasionally, the candles flickered really low, and we were eating in Brooklyn's equivalent of Dans le Noir. But there are worse problems to have than too much water and sometimes not being able to see your food. With its impossible-to-dislike atmosphere and cooking, Le Barricou is best for: a first date. More
Almost fifteen years after the cold war ended, Russia has become fodder for a theme restaurant, and a fine one at that. More
As we traveled north from Mumbai through Rajasthan, then east to Varanasi, we tried to drink as many lassis and eat as many mithai ("sweet" in Hindi) as possible. Here are our snapshots of a few of the delicious highlights. More
Ricardo sits on the line where a kiss goes from chaste to gasp. With its hedonic aesthetic and strong takes on steakhouse standards, Ricardo is best for a date with a carnivore. More
The inclusive menu, ranging as it does from the Caribbean to Asia to North Africa, extends to the conscientious service ("I sound like your mother," a server said, after gently teasing us about filling up on bread). Cheryl's emphasizes the connections between cuisines and between people, and it's best for: a welcoming date. More
After a meal here, you might not want to do much more than curl up with your date beneath a warm blanket. With its hearty, comforting fare, Krolewskie Jadlo is best for: a date you won't mind seeing in sweatpants afterward. More
Our choices for Date Night on February 14th range from Italian on Staten Island to Mexican in the Bronx to Ethiopian in Brooklyn. Each one offers an alternative to the roses-champagne-strawberries with chocolate narrative being foisted upon diners by so many places around town. Each one offers a date that's as unique as your sweetheart. More
The fútbol and the playlist can work against romance, to be sure (and not taking plastic may irritate some), but the raucous atmosphere of tapas joints further downtown--Casa Mono, say, or Boqueria--is dialed back at the comparatively restrained Manolo, making it more conducive to courting. With its almost-there atmosphere and range of authentic, interesting dishes Manolo is best for: a getting-to-know-you date. More
These days New York offers plenty of options for the Afghan cuisine, but Bamiyan, in Kips Bay, is among the oldest and best. More
Thanks -- that was exactly what we did when we were in India last year, and it was wonderful!
@KateN: It's a perfect rainy night place. Very cozy.
@parkdope20: The ribeye does sound great. Maybe next time.
Thanks for reading!
Very cool--had no idea. Thanks for posting about this.
Thanks so much, @madamek!
Thanks for reading, everyone -- glad to see so many other Indian street food fans!
Thanks for reading, everyone!
@KarmaFreeCooking: Looks like you've had some great trips. Aamras and ice cream sounds fantastic.
@henry.gomes: Where do you recommend in JH? For sweets in the neighborhood we generally go to Rajbhog or Maharajah, but we're always on the hunt for more.
@howard, @hunrgy: they were out of the "sexy balls for him" and "sexy bites for her" when we were there recently, sadly.
@KateN: Thanks so much!
@FromtheFuture: Indeed it is--we were there just a few days ago. The food is as good as ever.
@HW: The gratitude is all ours.
@xbklynh8r: Nope, we didn’t derive any thoughts about her abilities from her appearance. The subject of the verb “belied” is “touch,” so that phrase indicates that her traditional gesture was out of keeping with the casual contemporary style of her clothes. Hope that answers your question, and thanks for reading.
Hmmm . . . according to the DOHMH site, their most recent inspection (November of last year) netted them an A, with 13 points, not a C.
@sahiba, Thanks!
@RobertoRX, Indeed. We're looking forward to a return trip.
Great pictures!
It is! Thanks for the help with proofreading, @bookmonger.
Nice find, HW -- sounds well worth a visit.
Great review, Carey -- very thoughtful and admirably committed to taking the place on its own terms, which is not always an easy thing to do. We liked several of the same things you did, like the foie gras donut, the tako taco, and the shishito peppers, and we loved the fatty lamb breast as well. They didn't have the king dessert when we were there, which is all the more reason to go back.
@Jenn: It definitely has a fun-loving vibe.
@gargupie: Thanks for the tip about brunch. We'll have to check it out.
@StephanieL: Has Kabab Cafe reopened yet? When we were nearby a few weeks ago, it was closed for renovations.
@thesteveroller: They serve wine and beer. (And thanks for the catch.)
@Astorian: Absolutely!
@daffyduck: When we asked, he just repeated "Egyptian bread," but we think it might be feteer meshaltet, which is made with clarified butter (samnah) and can also be served as a dessert with a sweet dip or drizzle, like honey. Hopefully someone more well versed in Egyptian cuisine will chime in.
We love the chaat here -- the jaal moori is our favorite, but the bhel pori is great as well. Haven't tried the peanut masala, but definitely will now.
Thanks, everyone -- sounds like we'll have to head back for brunch.
Thanks, Simon. That's a good idea -- we'll try to make it more clear in the future.
Hooray for Ronnybrook!
Glad to hear the brunch is so good -- we'll have to give it a try. Thanks for the tip.
@thesteveroller: Yeah, we were surprised about the tabasco too, but that is indeed what it was, straight out of the little tabasco bottle. Thanks for the tip on the bam bam -- we'll have to give that a try next time.
@cook au vin: If any royalties come from the neologism, we've got dibs. Thanks for the heads-up.
Follow the crowds to the stand on Wednesdays, Fridays, or Saturdays, make an informed decision by trying all the samples, and then just not to eat the whole bag right there. We'll wager you can't. More
The restaurant serves as a solid go-to spot for those lucky enough to live in or near the gorgeous Victorian manses that populate this neighborhood. With its satisfactory takes on gastropub staples, minus the haughty 'tude, Ox Cart Tavern is best for: a humble Brooklyn date. More
Esperanto doesn't feel like New York, and definitely not like New York in December. With its cheeriness and slightly skewed takes on Latin American favorites, it's best for: an anti-winter date. More
Abistro's atmosphere derives from its diners. Laughter ricochets off the hard surfaces. A man in a bright yellow t-shirt greets most of the tables. And, suddenly, Abistro becomes a bistro. With its unique take on familiar food and ambiance, Abistro on DeKalb is best for: a vivacious date. More
If you ride the 5 train almost all the way to its northernmost stop, and get out at Gun Hill Road, you will find yourself surrounded by Jamaican and West Indian restaurants and grocery stores. Walking past the eateries hawking chicken, and markets offering such popular cuts of meat as "cow cod" (look it up), you might dismiss Katashe's as just another store, and one that doesn't look particularly well-stocked. In the back, though, you'll see a variety of patties piled up in a hot box. Behind the counter you'll see some steam trays, and you'll get a whiff of allspice. Ask the counterman what's available for lunch and he'll gladly lift the lids up to show you. More
On the front of the takeout menu, a quote translates, more or less, to "There are only two places where you can eat with pleasure: at Tlaxcalli and at your house." We can't agree. The food here is much, much better than the food at our house. Taqueria Tlaxcalli is best for: a date with a side of authenticity. More
This cash-only Middle Eastern restaurant in Fort Greene offers good food cheaply in an amiable atmosphere, and these days that's quite an accomplishment. More
If possible, sit in the white-washed side room. Banish thoughts of debt, Greek or American, as you dip the bread into the olive oil, and concentrate on Epicureanism. Pleasure might be the greatest good, for a few hours anyway. Listening closely, you might even hear waves. Bahari Estiatorio is best for: a date with someone you'd like to sail away with. More
We loved Mombar, an Egyptian restaurant in Astoria, immediately. The DIY decor, kaleidoscopic and kinda crazy. The owner's banter with his son, who neglected his homework in favor of a device that went ping and beep. The chef who read a pulp paperback in Arabic during downtime. We found the atmosphere eclectic and inviting, the food similarly welcoming and impressive in its depths. Good place, this. More
In anticipation of the Yankee's Opening Day 2011 on Thursday, we've put together this list of inexpensive and easily accessible local haunts near Yankee Stadium in the Bronx. From Ghanaian to Dominican food, they represent the changing demographics of the borough. While there are a handful of decent vendors at Yankee Stadium, why not skip the lines for a $7 Nathan's hot dog or $8 garlic fries and venture a little further afield? More
"I tell him to handle the dough like it was a woman—gently, softly," says Fany Gerson of DOUGH, a new doughnut shop in Clinton Hill, Brooklyn. In this video from Food Curated with Liza de Guia, we go behind-the-counter with Gerson to learn about her doughnut experimentation. After over 50 trials, she found the winner recipe: a not-too-sweet batter with a smidge of nutmeg that, when fried, gets those crispy outsides and light insides. They're also about as big as your face. "You don't want to have it end too soon!" More
[Photographs: Howard Walfish] This past Sunday was the first annual NYC Vegetarian Food Festival in the Altman Building in Chelsea. It was a combination trade show, restaurant showcase, and educational experience. The doors opened to the public shortly after... More
This is an immensely transporting restaurant, the kind of place where you wouldn't be surprised to look down to find your thumbs happily beating a tattoo against the table, rather than texting, where you won't just forget to check into Foursquare, but will forget about the internet entirely. More
Signs of spring are beginning to show—perhaps most welcome among them, the Mister Softee trucks roaming the streets. And at Serious Eats, our favorite of those is the The Big Gay Ice Cream truck. I spent an evening with BGICT frontman Doug Quint in his usual Union Square spot when he brought his truck out for one preview day last week. Even more interesting? I tagged along as he was closing up the truck. More
When done right, banh mi are an insanely tasty combination of contrasting textures and flavors, but the overall impression, as with much Vietnamese food, is of lightness and freshness. Where in Manhattan can you find the best sandwich? This week, I visited bành mí shops all over Manhattan to answer this question. More
A rudimentary knowledge of Spanish will come in handy for anyone eating at El Tapatio, nestled into a dark, narrow space on a busy street in Spanish Harlem. There's a bit of English on the menu, but the waitstaff doesn't speak much. Somehow between my high school Spanish, our server's patience, and some pointing at the menu, we were able to put together a nice little vegetarian feast for lunch. More
You've just read about Fatty Johnson's—a pop-up restaurant from the Fatty crew in the old Cabrito space. Rather than the restaurant-bar that Cabrito was, Fatty Johnson's is set up more as a cocktail bar that serves food to help soak up the alcohol, like their Big Johnson's Burger and Fried Chicken stuffed with ham and cheese. On some nights you will find Adam Schuman, the cocktail guru of the Fatty empire, running the bar; while some nights you'll find a bartender from some other spot in the city mixing a drink for you. More
The choices were dizzying. Pork and chive dumplings, fried squid balls, hand-pulled noodles, stinky tofu, lamb burgers and shrimp noodle soup lined tables for the Flushing Mall Grazing Experience, an instant potluck where attendees spent $10 at the food court and brought dishes back for all to share. Jeff Orlick, of Jeffrey Tastes, organized the Feb. 19 event along with a $5 Chili Sauce Tasting Table. He encouraged everyone to graze and try food they've never had. More
Le Grand Dakar brings the spirit of the Sahel to an ordinary, brownstone-heavy block in Clinton Hill, Brooklyn. The restaurant exudes warmth, from the tan and blond wood used throughout the dining area to the photos of smiling schoolchildren in uniforms lining the walls to the gorgeous, all-Senegalese waitstaff to the world jazz playing on the stereo. More
For Valentine's Day, these places promise great food off the regular menu, coupled with a fun vibe, for not too much moola—and they all accept walk-ins. More
The other editors asked me to dream up a 5-course progressive dinner—drinks, appetizers, entrees, dessert, and drinks, all at different venues. So come along on my dream Valentine's date. More
A friend visiting from out of town rang me up last week. "I'm going to the Doughnut Plant tomorrow morning," she told me, "but I'm kind of overwhelmed by the options. What's the best doughnut they have?" It was a... More
Eating inside what amounts to a big tent on chairs covered in red corduroy could feel gimmicky. Perhaps, in daylight, during lunch or brunch, it is. In the evening, however, seated at a two-top in a tiny pool of candlelight, the effect is wonderfully isolating. Turkuaz is best for: a date you'd like to go away with. More
As the night went on and more people arrived, In Vino filled with chatter and cheer, with some couples conspiring over candlelight and others simply basking in the glow of good food. It's best for an easy, uncomplicated date. More
Owner Joe Scaravella wanted a restaurant that reflected the home cooking he experienced throughout Italy. So he found a bunch of grandmothers willing to trade shifts in an open galley kitchen, and Enoteca Maria opened in 2007. More
Yes, definitely. Between these chips and Martin's Pretzels, our junk food needs are just about covered.