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From Talk

The Need for Cheese

Sounds like a nice haul! Next time, though, don't let them grate or shred your Parmigiano-Reggiano for you. Just acquire a little cheese grater -- you'll use it often, I'm sure -- and grate it yourself as needed. There are two reasons for doing so: your grated-as-needed cheese will taste better, and you can carve pieces from the remainder of the chunk to enjoy with your wine. Parmigiano-Reggiano isn't just a great grating cheese but it's also a great cheese for eating all by itself.

Another idea for your next trip: some aged provolone. It's also versatile -- good for grating or eating on its own merits. You'd never guess it was related to the usual provolone, because it is sharp and has a different texture.

From Talk

Confused by pans

I will recommend All-Clad skillets, frying pans, and sauce pans. I make omelets and crepes in my All-Clad frying pans without any problems whatsoever, and these pans aren't dedicated to those uses, either. For too long, I got by with Revere Ware, which is fine for boiling water but not so fine for a lot of other things. One nice thing about All-Clad's heavy-bottomed equipment is that it lets you recover from otherwise fatal errors of inattention.

I haven't used a nonstick pan in years, and I can't imagine why I'd ever want one again. I also have a couple of cast iron skillets of which I'm very fond and use often, along with a large Le Creuset dutch oven that I use rarely but value highly nonetheless.

From Sweets

Mixed Review: Ghirardelli Brownie Mix vs. The New Baked Brownie Mix

I'm astounded that anyone would make brownies from a mix, let alone pay $16 for it. As others have pointed out, there aren't many ingredients involved when you make brownies from scratch, and it doesn't take long, either. Also, if the end result is "incredibly gooey," that doesn't sound like a brownie to me. It sounds like soft fudge. And for $16, I can make some pretty good fudge, too. Not that I want my fudge to be gooey, either. But that's just my preference.

I'll join plazmaorb in endorsing the brownies in the current Bon Appetit. Like Big B, I made them the day of the last Steelers game (sorry, Big B, I'm a Burgher), except that I made them before the game instead of during it so that I could concentrate on the game. But you definitely should give them another try, Big B. Perhaps you can make them during the Super Bowl. Even if you splurge on the best cocoa you can find, they'll cost a lot less than $16. (In fact, I was going to make another batch today, but I didn't have enough butter on hand so I make an apple pie instead. Given the nasty weather, it was a good day to stay inside and bake.)

From Talk

10 best ingredients in my kitchen

Butter
Cream
Eggs
Bacon
Onions
Garlic
Parmigiano-Reggiano
Anchovies
Olive oil
Pasta

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From Talk

cutting a melon, and melon & prosciutto

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From Talk

The Need for Cheese

Sounds like a nice haul! Next time, though, don't let them grate or shred your Parmigiano-Reggiano for you. Just acquire a little cheese grater -- you'll use it often, I'm sure -- and grate it yourself as needed. There are two reasons for doing so: your grated-as-needed cheese will taste better, and you can carve pieces from the remainder of the chunk to enjoy with your wine. Parmigiano-Reggiano isn't just a great grating cheese but it's also a great cheese for eating all by itself.

Another idea for your next trip: some aged provolone. It's also versatile -- good for grating or eating on its own merits. You'd never guess it was related to the usual provolone, because it is sharp and has a different texture.

From Talk

Confused by pans

I will recommend All-Clad skillets, frying pans, and sauce pans. I make omelets and crepes in my All-Clad frying pans without any problems whatsoever, and these pans aren't dedicated to those uses, either. For too long, I got by with Revere Ware, which is fine for boiling water but not so fine for a lot of other things. One nice thing about All-Clad's heavy-bottomed equipment is that it lets you recover from otherwise fatal errors of inattention.

I haven't used a nonstick pan in years, and I can't imagine why I'd ever want one again. I also have a couple of cast iron skillets of which I'm very fond and use often, along with a large Le Creuset dutch oven that I use rarely but value highly nonetheless.

From Sweets

Mixed Review: Ghirardelli Brownie Mix vs. The New Baked Brownie Mix

I'm astounded that anyone would make brownies from a mix, let alone pay $16 for it. As others have pointed out, there aren't many ingredients involved when you make brownies from scratch, and it doesn't take long, either. Also, if the end result is "incredibly gooey," that doesn't sound like a brownie to me. It sounds like soft fudge. And for $16, I can make some pretty good fudge, too. Not that I want my fudge to be gooey, either. But that's just my preference.

I'll join plazmaorb in endorsing the brownies in the current Bon Appetit. Like Big B, I made them the day of the last Steelers game (sorry, Big B, I'm a Burgher), except that I made them before the game instead of during it so that I could concentrate on the game. But you definitely should give them another try, Big B. Perhaps you can make them during the Super Bowl. Even if you splurge on the best cocoa you can find, they'll cost a lot less than $16. (In fact, I was going to make another batch today, but I didn't have enough butter on hand so I make an apple pie instead. Given the nasty weather, it was a good day to stay inside and bake.)

From Talk

10 best ingredients in my kitchen

Butter
Cream
Eggs
Bacon
Onions
Garlic
Parmigiano-Reggiano
Anchovies
Olive oil
Pasta

From Talk

What's your go to beer of choice?

Grolsch and Guinness are the 2 brews that I always have on hand. If I see a case of Prima Pils from Victory Brewing in Downingtown, PA, I will grab it, too, but it's not always available. When the weather is warm, I like to have a case of Boddington's at the ready.

From Slice

Poll: Anchovies on Pizza - Way or No Way?

Way! Unfortunately, the other people with whom I might share a pizza dislike them intensely.When I make pizza, I sometimes adorn a slice or two for myself with anchovies, but I am told that a wayward drop of anchovy-tainted oil spoils an adjacent slice. For a quick meal (for myself), I'll saute a couple of anchovies and red pepper flakes in a bit of olive oil and then toss some pasta with the sauce and some toasted bread crumbs (never cheese!). I also use anchovies in tomato-based pasta sauces, a cauliflower side dish, and one of my lentil soups, among other things. I like and use them enough that I buy them in 24-oz jars, which is more economical than those tiny tins.

From Serious Eats

Spice Hunting: What's The Deal With Saffron?

This interesting article reminded me that I have an unopened container of saffron that I bought several years ago, just to have some on hand. Alas, the recipes I've been inclined to make are ones that the other family members have nixed. But the article inspired me to open the glass jar and take a sniff. Yes, despite the plastic encasing the small amount of saffron (Spanish coupe, from Penzey's), there was a deep, vanilla-like aroma to be enjoyed. Next opportunity (probably this weekend), I will make a point of using some of it, probably in a dish that my wife and son will spurn. Too bad for them!

From Talk

Best and Worst of Food Trends of 2010?

So, having read the previous comments, I wonder who has a recipe for bacon cupcakes. I'm imagining perhaps a hickory-smoked bacon & bourbon frosting slathered atop a sweet cornmeal cake flecked with pancetta, basil, and pignoli. Nobody?

From Talk

What to do with hungarian hot peppers?

If you have the space, just freeze them. Wash them off and freeze them whole, and then use them during the months ahead for salsa, chili, sauteed peppers and onions -- any dish in which you'd use cooked hot peppers. Work with them while they're still frozen, not thawed. I usually store them in 2 heavy-duty freezer bags. They last a LONG time.

From Serious Eats: New York

Poll: Do You Drink At Brunch?

I never go out for brunch -- but nearly every Saturday and Sunday I fix myself a brunch of bacon, fried potatoes, and either scrambled eggs or an omelet filled with sauteed onions, hot peppers, mushrooms, and grated cheese, usually aged provolone. A couple of glasses of white wine, usually Sauvignon Blanc or Riesling (dry) but sometimes a sparkling wine, go very nicely with the preparation and consumption of this meal. Once or twice a year I might make a Bloody Mary, but I greatly prefer a dry white wine at brunch.

The rest of the week, there's no breakfast or brunch aside from a couple of mugs of coffee. No wine then, either, alas. But, yes, if it's a weekend brunch, there is wine, in moderation. Pot of coffee, too.

From Talk

Suggestions for cooking for many at the beach

Millede, can you provide some more information? How long are you going to be there? How many meals per day do you intend to prepare? Will your guests expect to eat their evening meal at a certain time, or are they flexible? How well is the kitchen equipped? How skilled are you as a cook? How skilled is your assistant? Do you and your assistant like to cook, or do you regard it as a chore? How much time are you and the assistant prepared to devote each day to acquiring and preparing food? If you do the cooking, will some other people agree to take care of all the post-meal clean-up (I hope so!)? Do you and your companions regard your meals at the beach house as mere fuel for other activities, or do you see them as an enjoyable part of the vacation in themselves?

I ask because I have about 25 years of experience cooking for 2 weeks each summer -- with a competent assistant -- for a similarly diverse crowd ranging from 12 to 24 or so people. We have two goals: to spend every afternoon at the beach, weather permitting; and to eat as well as possible when we aren't at the beach.

From Talk

What's the stupidest thing you ever ordered at a restaurant?

A long time ago (circa 1976), I once ordered something very stupidly. That is, my language was stupid. My in-laws had taken my wife and me out to dinner, and we were ordering drinks before dinner. I told the waitress I wanted a daiquiri -- except I pronounced it da-QUEER-ee. This was the way my father-in-law always pronounced it at home, to be funny (he wasn't making a slur on gays, by the way). As soon as the word left my mouth, I knew it was wrong, but I just couldn't think of the correct pronunciation. So as the waitress stared at me, trying to comprehend my request, I said da-QUEER-ee again. She corrected my pronunciation and I confirmed that a DACK-er-ee was what I wanted. What a bunch of rubes I have at this table, she must have thought.

From Serious Eats

Poll: What's Your Favorite Kind of Pie?

Choosing a favorite pie is like choosing your favorite child. When I was in junior high school decades ago, I'd horrify the cafeteria ladies by asking for an empty soup bowl, 3 cartons of milk -- and 3 pieces of fruit pie, each a different one. If my luncheon choice didn't make the workers happy, it certainly made me happy!

From Recipes

Serious Chocolate: Easy Chocolate Pie Crust

Lemons, I have a close friend who's just like you. She's a good cook -- adventurous and inventive -- but she's deathly afraid of pie crust and bread dough. But you do not need a food processor to make a good pie crust (or bread, for that matter). I use a simple pastry blender these days, but for decades I got by with just a dinner fork, which is what my mother used. You and thousands of others have convinced yourself that pie crust is hard and intimidating, but it isn't. Now, if you add too much water you'll end up with goo, and if you work the dough too much you'll end up with cardboard. Two things to consider: substitute a little vinegar for some of the ice water (I usually use 2 Tbsp white vinegar to about 4 Tbsp ice water for a 2-crust pie), which makes the dough easier to handle; and roll out the crust between sheets of wax paper, flipping it now and then. "Serious" bakers scorn that practice, but you don't get flour all over the place and it makes it easy to put the second crust in place. If I'm making a dessert pie, I add a couple of tablespoons of sugar to the dough to counter the vinegar, which I can't taste but which friends can detect; if I'm making a savory dish (quiche, pot pie) I omit the sugar.

From Recipes

Serious Chocolate: Easy Chocolate Pie Crust

Gosh, it really isn't that hard to make a decent pie crust -- and it certainly shouldn't take very long. In fact, one reason many crusts fail is that the baker spends too much time working the dough, which makes it tough. This chocolate crust sounds fine for the dough-averse, and it would go nicely with a cherry filling as suggested, but it's never going to be the kind of rich, flaky crust that complements a peach or apple filling with its taste and texture. Crust is no more a mere vehicle for pie filling than pasta is a vehicle for sauce! Give the homemade crust a few more tries; the saying "easy as pie" wasn't intended to be oxymoronic.

From Recipes

Cook the Book: Bolognese Sauce

I've got to agree with Kenji -- although this recipe sounds good, it does sound more like a version of Italian-American gravy than Bolognese sauce. From the introduction to the recipe in Italian Classics, by the editors of Cook's Illustrated (Boston Common Press, 2002): "Unlike meat sauces in which tomatoes dominate... Bolognese sauce is about the meat, with the tomatoes in a supporting role. Bolognese also differs from many tomato-based meat sauces in that it contains dairy -- butter, milk, and/or cream. The dairy gives the meat an especially sweet, appealing flavor."

I make Bolognese sauce often. My everyday version is based on Marcella Hazan's in the revised edition of Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking, and my fancy recipe is from The Complete Book of Pasta by Jack Denton Scott (Galahad Books, 1968). Hazan and Clark both use nutmeg as a key flavor (in small amounts), and they do not brown the meat, either. They also use white wine, not red. And there is NO garlic. Clark adds some mushrooms and chopped chicken liver. Either of these recipes takes about 3 or 4 hours from start to finish. When it's done to my liking, the sauce is salmon-colored. If it's red, I've used too much tomato or too little cream.

Interestingly, the recipe in The Sliver Spoon (touted on its cover as "the bible of authentic Italian cooking") uses butter but no milk or cream. In The Food of Italy, Waverly Root describes Bolognese ragu as "an unctuous blend of onions, carrots, finely chopped pork and veal, butter, and tomato." He adds that ragu is often richer than his description of the basic recipe, and I suspect the richness comes from liberal use of milk and/or cream. I usually use both -- adding milk toward the beginning, after I've taken the redness out of the meat but without browning it, and a bit of cream just before serving.

From Talk

The Most Unhealthy Thing You've Ever Made

Once, when I was in high school (this was around 1967), I decided to make the Sweetest Milkshake Ever. I went through the refrigerator and kitchen cabinets searching for every sweet thing. I put a little bit of each into the blender -- brown sugar, confectioner's sugar, regular sugar, maple syrup, Karo, chocolate syrup, vanilla ice cream. I turned the blender on, poured the results into a glass, and drank it. As I recall, it didn't stay in my stomach longer than 10 seconds. At least I made it to the bathroom in time. World-class dumb!

From Talk

Chefs & Customers Who Linger After Hours

Many years ago, my wife and I flew to London with our 2-year-old (our one and only trip to Europe, alas) and then met some friends at a country inn in Kent. An attraction of the inn was a small but splendid restaurant. Our friends, Nancy and Rob, were stationed in France at the time, and they had ferried their 2 young children and their au pair across the Channel in 2 automobiles to meet us. The inn was our base for exploring the south of England before we returned to France with them. One day, our 2 vehicles were involved in a mishap in a roundabout, in which 1 of the vehicles was rendered inoperable. My wife, Rob, and the au pair used the operable vehicle to return with the 3 children to the inn, and I stayed behind with Nancy to attend to the damaged car and secure a rental car. The mishap occurred late in the afternoon of the Saturday before Easter, which complicated matters considerably because most repair shops were closed for the long weekend. It also was raining. When we finally returned to the inn, it was very late. But the innkeeper was waiting for us, having learned of our predicament from the other members of our group, and he had 2 snifters of Scotch in hand. And then he informed us that he had asked the chef to stay late in order to serve us dinner, long after all the other customers had departed. Twenty-five years later, I have no idea what we ate, but the extraordinary thoughtfulness of the innkeeper still brings tears to my eyes. Perhaps the chef was cursing us (and the innkeeper) all the while, but perhaps not.

From Talk

Good Baguette Recipes

For decades, I've been using the recipe for French bread from the Better Homes and Gardens New Cook Book (1981). I guess this book isn't very new anymore (and I don't know whether this recipe is included in the 12th edition of this cookbook), but I've never felt compelled to search for a different recipe (or to acquire the 12th edition). It makes 2 baguettes. Here it is: In a larger mixer bowl, combine 2 cups of warm water, 2 tsp salt, 2 packages of active dry yeast, and 2 cups of all-purpose flour (out of a total of 5 1/2 to 6 cups). Beat with electric mixer on low speed for 30 seconds, then on high for 3 minutes, scraping sides. Using a large spatula, stir in as much as you can of the remaining flour, which probably will be about 3 cups. Then turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead, adding more of the remaining flour as necessary, until you have a smooth elastic ball. This takes about 10 minutes. Shape the dough into a ball, place it in a large greased bowl, turn it once, and then cover it and allow to rise in a warm place until double, about an hour. Next, punch it down, divide it in half, and let it rest 10 minutes. Meanwhile, grease a baking sheet and sprinkle it with corn meal. Then roll half of the dough into a 15-by-12-inch rectangle. Roll it up tightly from the long side, taper the ends, and tuck them under. Make sure the loaf is sealed well. Place it on the baking sheet, seam side down, and prepare the remaining half of the dough in the same fashion. To produce a nice crisp crust, mix 1 tablespoon of water into 1 slightly beaten egg white and brush the loaves with the egg wash; save the rest of the wash. Let the loaves rise until nearly double, about 45 minutes. Bake in a 375 degree oven for 20 minutes and brush the loaves again with the egg wash. Then continue baking the loaves for an additional 20-25 minutes, making for a total baking time of 40-45 minutes. Allow to cool about 20 minutes before serving.

The 1981 edition of this cookbook also contains an excellent recipe for beef bourguignonne, which pretty much demands a couple of these baguettes.

From Talk

cutting a melon, and melon & prosciutto

That's interesting to know that the melon we commonly call a cantaloupe actually is a muskmelon. I had no idea! Then again, I've never willingly purchased one by either name, and I pay them no attention in the store. That's because I developed an aversion at a very early age to the orange-fleshed melon, as it was part of the "healthy breakfast" that my mother used to make me eat before school -- "cantaloupe," oatmeal or eggs, toast, orange juice, milk -- a time of the day when I wasn't interested in food of any kind (because of school-induced anxiety). So I have learned to associate orange-fleshed melons (and oatmeal) with a feeling of impending gastric disaster. Fifty years later, if I'm going to purchase and eat a melon, it is NOT going to have orange-colored flesh. But she meant well.

From Talk

cutting a melon, and melon & prosciutto

Ribster, do you recall the kind of melon you received? Pale-green honeydew or orange-ish cantaloupe? Or something else?

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Recent Posts

From Talk

cutting a melon, and melon & prosciutto

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From A Hamburger Today

jackalan answered "I've never had one and I'd like to keep it that way." to Do You Like Chili Burgers?

From Serious Eats

jackalan answered "Charcoal" to Labor Day Poll: Gas or Charcoal Grill?

From Serious Eats

jackalan answered "Hot" to Which Salsa Spicyness Level Do You Prefer?

From Serious Eats

jackalan answered "Apricot" to What's Your Favorite Hamantash Filling?

From Serious Eats

jackalan answered "Cherry" to What's Your Favorite Kind of Pie?

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From Serious Eats

jackalan got 44% correct on How Much Do You Know About Peanut Butter?

From Serious Eats

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About jackalan

Website:

Location: Connecticut

About: 59-year-old male, self-employed medical writer. Enjoy cooking, baking, and gardening, especially to further cooking & baking. Favorite cuisine is Italian. For 10 years, I made a pizza every Sunday for one of the kids.

Favorite foods: Pasta, hot peppers, asparagus, Brussels sprouts, broccoli rabe, eggplant, kale, potatoes, blueberries, peaches, sour cherries, rhubarb, bacon, butter, cream, bacon, bratwurst, pork, sauerkraut, Parmigiano-Reggiano

Last bite on earth: Pasta with my own Bolognese sauce, liberally sprinkled with Parmigiano-Reggiano