Recent Comments

From Slice

Nunzio's, a Classic Slice on Staten Island

I have a friend who grew up on SI and he swears by this place. Always been wanting to check it out.

From Slice

Pizza Preview: Don Antonio in Midtown Manhattan

I do want to be alone with the Pistacchio e Salsiccia pie, no question :)

From Slice

Pizza Preview: Don Antonio in Midtown Manhattan

Neapolitan-style places have a lot going for them for sure @PG, but becoming ubiquitous isn't it. It seems less special. These guys will undoubtedly do great with all the resources they have. I don't think I am the only one feeling some Neapolitan pizza fatigue -- in spite of the extraordinary technique and artistry some of these places employ. The provenance here is incredible. I know when I check it out I may very well be pretty blown away. I guess it is kind of a victory lap for Roberto and Antonio -- they def have made it. Ultimately I really wish them great success as I admire what they are doing on quite a few levels. It will be interesting to see how many similar places NYC can support or if others will see their businesses suffer some. How many more WFO places will we see? Do you think it is possible for there to be too many? Is such a thing possible? I suppose if we lose some places that aren't quite as special as a result of Don Antonio's likely success that that will be an exchange worth making. Maybe there is so much demand that we will see even more. I just don't want to see so many that they feel almost as common as Starbucks.

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Recent Posts

From Talk

Demystifying 00 Flour

From Slice

LoDuca Pizza: A Slice Joint Gem in the Heart of Brooklyn

See more posts by John Wozniak »

Recent Favorites

From Slice

Nunzio's, a Classic Slice on Staten Island

From Talk

Demystifying 00 Flour

From Serious Eats

The Food Lab: The Road To Better Risotto

From Serious Eats

A Sandwich a Day: Banana Nutella from Olympic Provisions in Portland, OR

See more favorites by John Wozniak »

Recent Polls

From Slice

John Wozniak answered "No, I'm a self-made pizzamaker" to Have you ever taken a pizzamaking class?

From Serious Eats: New York

John Wozniak answered "Daniel Boulud" to Which Celebrity Chef Would You Most Like To Meet?

From Slice

John Wozniak answered "It depends" to Do you prefer shredded or sliced mozzarella on your pizza?

From Slice

John Wozniak answered "I have at one time" to Do you work — or have you ever worked — in a pizzeria or the pizza industry?

Recent Quizzes

From Slice

John Wozniak got 60% correct on General Knowledge (aka No Specific Theme Today)

See more polls and quizzes by John Wozniak »

Recent Comments

From Slice

Nunzio's, a Classic Slice on Staten Island

I have a friend who grew up on SI and he swears by this place. Always been wanting to check it out.

From Slice

Pizza Preview: Don Antonio in Midtown Manhattan

I do want to be alone with the Pistacchio e Salsiccia pie, no question :)

From Slice

Pizza Preview: Don Antonio in Midtown Manhattan

Neapolitan-style places have a lot going for them for sure @PG, but becoming ubiquitous isn't it. It seems less special. These guys will undoubtedly do great with all the resources they have. I don't think I am the only one feeling some Neapolitan pizza fatigue -- in spite of the extraordinary technique and artistry some of these places employ. The provenance here is incredible. I know when I check it out I may very well be pretty blown away. I guess it is kind of a victory lap for Roberto and Antonio -- they def have made it. Ultimately I really wish them great success as I admire what they are doing on quite a few levels. It will be interesting to see how many similar places NYC can support or if others will see their businesses suffer some. How many more WFO places will we see? Do you think it is possible for there to be too many? Is such a thing possible? I suppose if we lose some places that aren't quite as special as a result of Don Antonio's likely success that that will be an exchange worth making. Maybe there is so much demand that we will see even more. I just don't want to see so many that they feel almost as common as Starbucks.

From Slice

Giuseppina's: Is it Lucali East?

Beyond how sexy Lucali (and the toppings and sauce are indeed tasty) is I just can't get on board with it or this place. If it weren't for the high protein flour that is used, the dough would never be able to be stretched as it is in the pick above — the shot of the undercrust shows that Chris has the stretching technique of angry teenager. That and end the rim crust at both of these places is basically inedible (soo dry). For me crust is more than 50% of a pizza and this dough ain't handled with enough love or skill, IMO.

From Serious Eats

The Vegan Experience Day 25: Can Vegans Still Enjoy Pizza?

Just like a marinara pie there are so many things that happen to be vegan and are great just as they are (a point Kenji has been making quite a bit in these posts). It is so unfortunate that if you were to call it a "vegan marinara pizza" that many would scoff at it. Hard to take people this ignorant seriously, but the truth is that some of the people that behave this way are far from ignorant in other regards. It is kinda curious really.

That said, I think veganism gets a bad rap primarily because of the holier-than-thou attitude of some vegans, not because there is anything wrong with the food (beyond the fake meat/cheese stuff). Sometimes even vegans need to realize they should accommodate others in certain situations and not the other way around.

From Slice

Pizza Preview: Don Antonio in Midtown Manhattan

@Pizza Lawyer: The cornicione does indeed look taller than most -- Motorino-inspired perhaps or maybe it was gonna be this way anyway. How puffy the pizza rim is (depending on if/how it is retarded) could vary at diff times of day or if they have to make fresh dough to keep up with demand. Be interesting to see more pics as they settle into their groove here.

From Slice

My Pie Monday: Frankenpizza, Sfincillian, Salmon, and Much More!

@atmast: Thanks for following up and the compliments on my Caputo pies :). High heat really is the key to cat spots it seems and there is no way to fake it. At home, I have a gas bottom drawer broiler oven, which never seems to achieve the cosmetics that an electric oven does. I wonder what I could do to fake it out to get it to run hotter. At the same time, I have such a tiny kitchen (even by NY standards -- just the layout of my apt. -- all the rest of the rooms are quite big) I am somewhat worried about blowback from getting it super hot.

As far as the lack of malt in Caputo, no reason you can't add a little bit (or honey) to it to "help" make up the 200 degree diff from a WFO. With a WFO there is no need for it, but with a home oven I see no foul in augmenting the flour a teeny, tiny bit (2%'ish). To me it is less a cheat than it is just working within the constraints. As far as a domestic flour than has malt but is otherwise very similar to Caputo, I can't recommend KA Organic AP enough -- fantastic taste, right protein level and very silky. A bit pricey though. Wishing you much continued success :)!

From Slice

My Pie Monday: Frankenpizza, Sfincillian, Salmon, and Much More!

@atmast: Nice cat spots. What kind of oven and setup are using? Does the KA SL spot better than others you have tried? What do you find the key for that spotted look? The combo of high gluten with high hydration gave you a really nice cornicione. Well done!

@Norma: Do you recally my Talk post on 00/Caputo? I promise you I have made very good pizza with pure Caputo (or with some KA AP added) in a deck oven much like yours. In a deck oven, the Caputo benefits from a little oil and a little sugar (for browning and tenderness). You REALLY don't need all the rest of the stuff you added (I am 100% certain) -- really you don't. I know it was just an experiment but...

@Craig: Liking the toppings combo. Sound delicious.

@all: Rockin' as usual :)!

From Slice

Pizza Preview: Don Antonio in Midtown Manhattan

I wonder if Antonio enjoyed his time acting on Galactica ;) Love the popped collar! I wonder if Izod makes their shirts...nah, not Eyetalian enough ;)

Feels like this is the crest of the Neapolitan wave. I hope so. Nothing wrong with the pizza per se, but it is kinda antique. Be great to see more places like/of the quality of "Best Pizza", though for investors a slice joint doesn't have the sex appeal of an expensive, Manhattan loc, big, high overhead place like Don Antonio.

Do we really need another Neapolitan place serving pizza that is nearly identical to all the other good Neapolitan places? Can you imagine if you could ONLY drink beer that met the German purity standards? Boring. Thankfully we do indeed have some choice in NYC.

Anywho...I know this opening needed to get covered and the pizza is no doubt good. Just saying be nice to see some other styles get some more momentum. I suppose square pies are gaining some, so that is good.

From Slice

Astoria, Queens: Via Trenta Osteria & Wine Bar

Crust looks "Delfina'ish" ( http://slice.seriouseats.com/images/20090102-delfina-marg.jpg ) with a bit heavier hand on the toppings. Nice that these guys are making better use of the Woodstone. Looks like another solid joint in Queens.

From Recipes

Cook the Book: Nancy Silverton's Pizza Dough 

The book says to divide the dough into 7 oz / 198 g balls — 12 inches is awfully wide for a dough that small, especially considering the tall cornicione. I would go 10 inches with a roughly 200 g dough. But whaddoIknow?! ;)

From Slice

Portland, Oregon: Oven & Shaker

Totally looks up my alley in so many ways. If I was nearer it I would be all over it in a heartbeat. Def check it out if in the area. Looks really delicious.

From Slice

Video: Why Di Fara Costs $5 a Slice

Well, you know, Dom is running his oven at 900 degrees after all ;)

From Talk

Sourdough question

In summary:

Some acid = good
Too much acid = bad

And def don't take the brown stuff ;)

From Slice

Scott's Pizza Chronicles: Fried Pizza

Thanks @Craig! Appreciated. Had to give it a whirl. Some powdered sugar would totally work with the bones, no question.

From Talk

Sourdough question

FWIW, Chau Tran alludes to what I was talking about (in Pizzablogger's great interview ;):
http://slice.seriouseats.com/archives/2011/03/pizza-obsessives-chau-tran-the-balanced-approach-to-pizza-making.html

"I now understand that there is definitely a difference in using a young versus mature leaven. They definitely give different results as far as flavor and structure because of the amount of [initial] acids and those developed from fermentation. If I had to guess, I was likely using an older, more mature starter at the time."

But yeah, the dough just could have been overblown sourdough or not. Still what I said I meant and it come from first hand experience and the experience of people that know more and make better pizza than I. That said everyone knows that sourdough can indeed weaken gluten some time after it has strengthened it.

:)

From Slice

Scott's Pizza Chronicles: Fried Pizza

Oh and I don't care what Sofia is making — she's got my attention :)!

From Slice

Scott's Pizza Chronicles: Fried Pizza

Beyond the hot oil, this style could not be easier.

This is stab of mine from some weeks ago:
https://twitter.com/#!/JohnnyDoubleU/status/164446266632306688/photo/1/large

Should have had the oil at 400 not 375 and used thicker cheese (was thin Grande pre-sliced fresh mootz), but nonetheless it was still quite delicious.

As a change of pace, this is a great style :)!

From Talk

Raw garlic - who's in?

I def will eat it. Something about it just feels healthy. That said, I much prefer it lightly pickled which takes a little bit of the bite and heat out.

From A Hamburger Today

Video: The Craigie On Main Burger

@tcal4404: You knew what I meant ;). I saw that it was a CVap but thought that was just a proprietary, fancy pants sous-vide. It sort of is in some ways but is does use vapor apparently. Now I know they aren't completely interchangeable :). Thanks guys!

@Kenji: Sounds like a good approach, but I wonder if you might want to take another bite :)! FWIW, my Dad is actually vegan (in his early seventies and looks 15 years younger) and has been for 8 years or so. There is no question in my mind that he is extending his life and improving its quality. I wonder if you stick to the mostly vegan thing for a few years if you will eventually come to find red meat an anathema or if the craving will still remain. My sister who has been vegan for over 10 years is def repulsed by any kind of meat. Like my Dad, she really couldn't be or look healthier. She also has no problem maintaining a consistent healthy weight.

Anyhow I think what you are doing is great and the right way to go for so many reasons. Good luck keeping it up :)!

From Talk

Sourdough question

Oh and the bulk fermentation (with a very active, well fed starter) should be probably be somewhere between 12 - 24 hours give or take, depending on the temp, starter %, how truly "active" your starter is) and other environmental variables. Once you get this down you can experiment with using even less starter (2% or less) or inactive starter to prolong the bulk fermentation. You could cold retard the dough as well. Unless your starter really is not that active, 48 hours at room temp is waaaay too long.

As far as gauging the "activeness" of your starter, it is ready when it just begins to start collapsing (not rising anymore) and is has lot of bubbles in it.

From A Hamburger Today

Video: The Craigie On Main Burger

I am not often blown away by how a burger is made but the methods employed in this one seem so spot on to make a truly spectacular burger. Pretty friggen brilliant! The loose packing is to me, usually a hallmark of a place that really knows what it is doing, let a alone the sous vide to ensure a perfect medium-rare and a super hot griddle to get a crust. This thing is so well thought out!

@Kenji: Is this something that with your new eating habits you would still indulge in or do you think you could refrain? If I am near this place I am simply gonna have to go. It is the best looking burger I may have ever seen, period.

BTW, the OxCart Tavern in Ditmas is making quite a good burger — not in this league but still quite good. House grind (and housemade ketchup with chipotles in it) on a very similar bun to this one. It is def worth you guys checking out, no question (B/Q to Newkirk, 25 (legit) minutes from Canal).

@redfish: Like I was just saying to Kenji, there is a place near me that is using a very similar (looking bun). At first I thought it was too tall as well but these kinds of buns are very tender and sort of squish down as you bite and then spring back a little. I have been converted. If the bun was less tender it would def be too tall.

From Talk

Sourdough question

@BiereBeer: One of the reasons I have considered writing about sourdough use (I just don't really like blogging — my heart is not in it — so I haven't done it) is the problem you are encountering. It pretty much always comes up but it is not often discussed (I think because many that write a recipe or two for sourdough still have very limited overall experience with it).

Very often the sourdough mother becomes quite acidic and there is a process called "washing" which is basically aggressive feeding (with a large discard). This will dial down the overall acid level.

The simplest way to overcome the acid issue (weakening gluten) is to use a little mature starter to make a young/fresh leaven each time you make dough. A simple way to accomplish this with a straight dough is to use somewhere between 2-6% starter added to your dough formula's water. A larger percentage of starter will increase the amount of acid from the get go so if you do want to use a larger preferment make sure it is started with a small amount of mature starter, creating a viable yet young preferment to add to your dough.

That said, especially if you store your starter in the fridge in between uses, it will be more acidic overtime and washing it something that should be done periodically anyway.

Hope that helps :)!

From Serious Eats

The Vegan Experience, Day 6: Calorie Control

Sometimes I wonder if veganism isn't at least partially about feeling superior to those who aren't. #archetypes

See more comments by John Wozniak »

Recent Posts

From Talk

Demystifying 00 Flour

From Slice

LoDuca Pizza: A Slice Joint Gem in the Heart of Brooklyn

See more posts by John Wozniak »

Recent Favorites

From Slice

Nunzio's, a Classic Slice on Staten Island

From Talk

Demystifying 00 Flour

From Serious Eats

The Food Lab: The Road To Better Risotto

From Serious Eats

A Sandwich a Day: Banana Nutella from Olympic Provisions in Portland, OR

From Recipes

Sauced: Apple Butter

From A Hamburger Today

The Burger Lab: An Even Better Way To Make Any Cheese Melt Like American (This Time in Slices!)

From Recipes

Pickled Chinese Long Beans

From Drinks

Cool Drinks, NY: Watermelon-Shiso Soda at Brooklyn Soda Works

From Drinks

Serious Grape: Our Search for the Best Riesling

From Serious Eats: New York

Lunch Today: New Malaysia

From Sweets

14 No-Bake Desserts For Summer

From Talk

The $3 Big Mac (sort of) mini meal

From Recipes

Better No-Knead Bread

From A Hamburger Today

Astoria, NYC: A Great Burger in an Unlikely Spot at Astor Bake Shop

From Serious Eats: New York

A Sandwich A Day: The Braised Braciole at Rubirosa

From A Hamburger Today

Reality Check: Wendy's Bacon Mushroom Melt

From Serious Eats: New York

Sugar Rush: Mille-Feuille at Mille-Feuille Patisserie

From Serious Eats

The Food Lab: The Science of No-Knead Dough

From Slice

Pizza Obsessives: Foolish Poolish

From Slice

Pizza Protips: Converting Recipes to the Food Processor

From Slice

Glossary: crust terminology

From Slice

LoDuca Pizza: A Slice Joint Gem in the Heart of Brooklyn

From Slice

Rossopomodoro Pizza at Eataly

From Slice

Max's Coal Oven Pizzeria: A Saving Grace for Pizza Lovers in Downtown Atlanta

From Slice

'Slice' Poll: Fresh Mushrooms or Canned?

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Polls

From Slice

John Wozniak answered "No, I'm a self-made pizzamaker" to Have you ever taken a pizzamaking class?

From Serious Eats: New York

John Wozniak answered "Daniel Boulud" to Which Celebrity Chef Would You Most Like To Meet?

From Slice

John Wozniak answered "It depends" to Do you prefer shredded or sliced mozzarella on your pizza?

From Slice

John Wozniak answered "I have at one time" to Do you work — or have you ever worked — in a pizzeria or the pizza industry?

From Slice

John Wozniak answered "It depends on exactly how bad it is. (Feel free to explain in the comments)" to Do you stop eating pizza when it's hot outside?

See more polls by John Wozniak »

Quizzes

From Slice

John Wozniak got 60% correct on General Knowledge (aka No Specific Theme Today)

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About John Wozniak

Website: http://johnwozniak.com

Location: Ditmas Park, Brooklyn

About: I am serious food lover and cook

Favorite foods: Shake Shack custard, Totonno's Coney Island sausage pie (made by Lawrence C. or the guy with the hat :), The burger and arctic char at The Farm on Adderley

Last bite on earth: Hmm...