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John Wozniak

I am serious food lover and cook

  • Website
  • Location: Ditmas Park, Brooklyn
  • Last bite on earth: Hmm...

Dear Local Pizzeria: Ranch is NOT Tuscan.

Looks like a delicious slice. Taste is more important than "correctness" in my book.

The Pizza Lab: The Best French Bread Pizza

The Poles call this "zapiekanka". Pretty common in parts of Chicago, Greenpoint and Europe apparently.

Looks delicious @kenji.

We Chat With Gabe Thompson of L'Apicio, L'Artusi, dell'anima and Anfora

Great interview. This really resonated with me. Gonna have to try Gabe's food! :)

Staff Picks: Our Favorite Fast Food Burgers

The fact that none of you picked a standard Wendy's burger is _totally_ suspect. By _any reasonable measure_ Wendy's is the best of the common, National chains.

@Kenji you ever get to Paul's? ;)

Lombardi Pizza Co.: Truckin' Great Pizza in Edison, New Jersey

The pizza may be bangin' but a dude with a smartphone has no excuse when he doesn't update a public calendar for his business, especially if he will be closed for over 3 months. Eww.

The Pizza Lab: Foolproof Pan Pizza

The Pizza Hut of the 80's is not mythical — the pizza was truly all that and a bag of chips. Fried bottom, stretchy mootz, larded with toppings. Just totally effing delicious and the smell of it is burned in my brain for all time.

Anyone recently been to a "real" full service Pizza Hut and ordered a pan pizza in/to stay? I am willing to bet it (to this day) doesn't suck. I wouldn't assume it is bad. They have been kinda successful.

Great post and great looking pie @Kenji. This is the kind of pizza closest to my heart — soulful and satisfying. It's such a nice bonus the workflow is child's play and easily duplicatable.

Daily Slice: Pizza Rustica at Avellino's, East Hanover NJ

Sounds delish. Love quiche. Love pizza. Gonna have to make something similar. Bet they get rid of the "ends" of meat this way — cubing it and putting it in other dishes. Making antipasto or quasi-lardons are good ways to utilize the end/s as well.

Emeryville, CA: Playing Hot or Not with the Pizzas at Hot Italian

FWIW, this pizza looks spectacular to me — looks a lot like DiFara actually.

Chicago: Brave the Waldorf Astoria for Balsan

Klee Brasserie, Nice Pizza, Benoit, Marché du Sud and August @Paulie.

Greensburg, PA: Finally Getting Sweet on Jioio's Pizza

Fascinating. Thanks very much for covering this place. This pizza looks like it has soul — and that matters. (Being part Polish) I really dig the idea of the "pirogue" pie as well.

Paulie Gee to Open a Baltimore Location with 'Pizzablogger'

Awesome news. You're gonna kick ass PB!

Top This: Why Don't We Put More Broccoli On Pizza?

Funky Broccoli! :D

My Pie Monday: Hickory Burrata, Napa Cabbage, Buffalo Detroit and More!

Pan pizza for the soulful win!

Williamsburg Pizza: A Cause for Celebration

The pizza here is particularly good but there are some other aspects that aren't so great. If you go, you'll be well served by focusing on the pizza.

Chicago Pizza: Floriole Cafe & Bakery Pizza

To me, this is what the ideal pizza looks like. Golden, brown and delicious (with some real crumb)! Pizza does not suffer if it is great bread as well.

I sooo wish this place was in NYC. :(

A Pizza My Mind: Does It Really Matter Who Makes Your Pizza?

Sorry for the late comment -- been one thing after another...

@Lance, killer post as usual. You touch on things very few people in food writing do. You illuminate.

@Paulie awww. It's a thrill and an honor to be on your team. Thanks sooo much for giving me the opportunity!

A Pizza My Mind: On Planning a Pizza Crawl

How can I make my pizza dough softer?

You don't want to use 00 flour at home oven temps really, but in small enough quantities it is not a bad idea (blended with another, primary flour) as it is a bit softer than typical flour.

Things you can do that can make for a more tender dough:
* Don't cold ferment or retard for long periods (extended ambient fermentation is possible with minuscule yeast amounts) — it does toughen the dough (however it creates more flavor complexity as well so there are pros and cons here -- one has to decide which is more important)
* Mix the dough gently (as would be the case if you did it by hand) on low speed/low intensity
* Add some oil or other fat
* Add some milk
* Use a medium strength flour like King Arthur all-purpose or Heckers all-purpose and not higher protein bread flour/s
* Use a very small amount of chickpea/besan flour along with a primary flour
* Bake as fast as you can

Passing of the Peel: Kesté Has a New Pizzaiola

Very cool. And damn that oven is gorgeous!

Mother Dough: Is "Good" Good Enough in Los Angeles?

Sorry for the delay in following up. Just catching my breath. Was trying to speak to this myth of the one-man-show being intrinsically superior (or something close to that). For every example one could offer of this being the case, there are an equal or greater number showing that employees have the the "right stuff". I witness it first hand, all week.

What I know is that it takes a wiser, more humble man to recognize that he can't do everything and that he is likely to not be best served by trying to do so. Relinquishing some control so that you can focus on more things is easier said than done though, for sure. If you want to take your business past a certain size/success level, it is a necessary step.

Mother Dough: Is "Good" Good Enough in Los Angeles?

Let's all remember that myths are just that. They help sell pizza but they are flatly untrue. If I served you a pizza and you didn't know who made it — now that would be interesting.

PizzaHacker Behind Pizza Program at The Forge

The oven thing sort of reminds me of wood vs modern tennis racquets. One can play pretty well with an old school wooden Rod Laver racquet (if they are skilled), but would hit the ball at least as well with a superior, better performing modern composite racquet.

Top This: Pollo (à la Trattoria Neapolis)

My word. Pizza looks and sounds amazing. Soooo jealous of all their dough toys!

Serious Entertaining: How To Throw a Pizza Party

I know it is an "adaptation" for home, but the actual fact of the matter is that true Neapolitan (Kesté, Donatella's, Pizzeria Notizia etc. — and VPN training) typically calls for a dough that is at or near 58% hydration — using Caputo). Interesting that the comparative lack of wetness is one reason real Neapolitan pizza spots easily. Same dough with more water in it has far less spotting if all other conditions are the same.

I have no problem with the suggestion of a wetter dough for a homemade Nearlypolitan but I do think it is contextually important to note that the real thing/pro dough is not that wet.

Marine Park, Brooklyn: Pizzeria Del Corso

Looks far better than "Best". ;)

Join us: Ditmas Park Brooklyn Grandma/Square Pizza Crawl 2/18, Midday

Hey guys,

Just wanted to let you know that a small group of us is planning on sampling some of the better square slices in the Midwood/Ditmas Park, Brooklyn area on 2/18 (this Saturday). Some of the folks that are attending are "pizza/foodie luminaries" that live in the NYC area. Not going to name names but there are some heavy hitters, no question. If you join us you'll find out! :)

On the itinerary:
1. Lo Duca (for the killer Grandma). Here are some pics on Google of their pies (pics I took actually): http://g.co/maps/wfg56
2. San Remo (awesome selection of squares)
3. Di Fara (time and belly permitting ;)

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If you are interested in joining us, please contact me via my website ( http://johnwozniak.com ) me ASAP, so I can plan accordingly. It will be an afternoon of fantastic pizza and company!

Demystifying 00 Flour

One thing many home pizza makers struggle with is using 00 flour in a conventional home oven.

For those that have overcome this hurdle, how have you done it?

I have found 4 tricks that make it possible to use 00 and make very good pizza at home, even without a WFO. They are:
1. Use a little oil in the dough (1-2% or so). This helps keep it tender during longer bake times needed at lower temps.
2. Use a little honey or sugar to promote browning and spotting (around 1-2%).
3. Use the skillet-broiler method over a conventional bake unless you have stones above and under pizza and can preheat your oven for a long time.
4. Use as high a hydration dough as you are comfortable with (around 66%-70% or so).

Although it is admirable to use a pure Neapolitan style dough, it is not ideally suited for the home oven. With slight modification, 00 based doughs can work well at home. With a WFO, a leaner pure dough is fine, as the bake times are far faster and the temps higher. With home ovens, most failure amounts to trying to put a square peg in a round hole.

What are your tricks for 00? What has given you trouble? Let's help everyone conquer the infamous 00!

@JohnnyDoubleU

Super (Duper) Market: This Weekend in NYC

These days, there are any number of venues to see New York's small artisan purveyors: Smorgasburg, Hester Street Fair, maybe DeKalb or New Amsterdam Market. (Not to mention small retail shops like Bklyn Larder or Nolita Mart.) But Super (Duper) Market, put together by Paper magazine, not only has an excellent selection of NYC vendors, but a handful of great West Coast folk, as well. Here's a look at the vendors, people, and products. More

Nunzio's, a Classic Slice on Staten Island

A minimally beautiful little slice. Life rafts of mozzarella float atop a bright-red sea of fresh-tasting, chunky sauce—it's little more than crushed canned tomatoes, some salt, and a some basil. The crust is crisp and pliant and thin. You'll probably want a couple. More

Demystifying 00 Flour

One thing many home pizza makers struggle with is using 00 flour in a conventional home oven. For those that have overcome this hurdle, how have you done it? I have found 4 tricks that make it possible to use... More

The Food Lab: The Road To Better Risotto

At this late stage in the game is there anyone in the world beside hard-line Italians who doesn't know that you can make a perfect bowl luscious, al dente, perfectly mantecato risotto without preheating your broth or stirring constantly? That said, I've still got a ton of risotto questions left unanswered, so this week I decided to test just about every aspect of risotto I could think of to separate fact from fiction. Which type of rice is best? How much do you really need to stir? Is toasting necessary? And what about mounting with cream? 6.6 pounds of risotto later, I've got a few answers. More

A Sandwich a Day: Banana Nutella from Olympic Provisions in Portland, OR

Olympic Provisions is a Portland hot spot for charcuterie. Salumist Elias Cairo is a master of all things cured and smoked, and many of the charcuterie plates in town use their products. (We took a behind-the-scenes tour of their meat department last year). The sandwiches are some of the best in Portland and although many are porky and strictly for carnivores, this particular one is actually targeted to the Montessori school down the street. More

Sauced: Apple Butter

Sweet and appropriately spiced for the fall season, apple butter makes great use of the bounty of apples that is currently upon us. Especially if you don't know how to control yourself at the pick-it-yourself orchards like me. More

The Burger Lab: An Even Better Way To Make Any Cheese Melt Like American (This Time in Slices!)

I wanted full-flavored American cheese that not only behaves like American cheese once it's melted on a burger, but I wanted cheese that behaves just like American in every other way. American cheese that you can double stack inside a grilled cheese sandwich that oozes out into gooey puddles when you bite into it. American cheese that you can melt on the stovetop with a can or Ro*Tel for the ultimate upscale-trashy cheese dip. American cheese that you can pick up cold from the fridge, stack with a pile of bologna, and roll up into the best-ever midnight snack (don't other people do this?). More

Serious Grape: Our Search for the Best Riesling

These mineral-rich, low-alcohol wines are some of the most delicious whites we've ever tasted, especially in the $15 to $25 range. We tried about 45 bottles over the course of the past two months, paying attention to each wine and how it evolved in the glass. Want a cheat sheet? Here are a few of the highlights of our summer of riesling. More

Lunch Today: New Malaysia

I'm just back from eight days eating my way through Malaysia—Penang, Melaka, and Kuala Lumpur—and on the plane home, I sat next to a New York-living, Malaysia-born woman who told me I had to try "this Malaysian restaurant on the Bowery. Well, not really on the Bowery. Down an alley or something? Anyway, it's legit." More

Better No-Knead Bread

I've never seen what I consider to be a really satisfactory explanation of the science behind the No-Knead Bread recipe, so I'm gonna try and fill that hole here. And what cool science it is. In 2006, Mark Bittman introduced the world to a recipe from Jim Lahey of Sullivan Street Bakery, which had a whole bunch of home cooks opening up their Dutch ovens and exclaiming oh my goodness—I can't believe I just did that! It certainly had me thinking that. Even more interesting to me than that it works is how it works, because by understanding the how, we can then modify the recipe to fit many different baking situations, even improving its flavor. More

Astoria, NYC: A Great Burger in an Unlikely Spot at Astor Bake Shop

Astor Bake Shop opened just shy of a year ago in an unlikely place. Far from the subway lines that serve Astoria, it's a place you might only visit if you lived in the area or took a short detour south after a day in Astoria Park. The shop is the "labor of love" of chef-owner George McKirdy, a veteran of some fancy Manhattan restaurants. Although a bakery in appellation, it serves a short menu of breakfast, lunch, and dinner dishes as well. Among them a very good burger, maybe even the best I've had so far in Astoria. More

A Sandwich A Day: The Braised Braciole at Rubirosa

Braciole, the Italian dish of thinly sliced meat rolled around a cheese, herb, and bread-crumb stuffing, is a staple of the Italian-American sunday gravy. Made with garlic-and-Parmesan-stuffed beef, the tiny involtini get seared and braised in tomato sauce until rich and tender. Like the meatball before them, it was only a matter of time before they got reinvented in sandwich form, and what a sandwich they make! More