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Peter Meehan of the Times communicates his passion for food with charm and joy. He presents humble restaurants as humble restaurants, and judges them accordingly -- not for what he wants them to be. His writing is clear and simple, and his reviews flow beautifully, most often containing a line or two that make me smile.
No other critic makes me as excited to explore new flavors, and push my palate beyond my cultural sensibilities. Dining out should be a joyful experience; week after week, Meehan celebrates that joy instead of a common foodwriterly pretense.
Three cheers for Mr. Meehan!