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Michael Ruhlman Interviews Judith Jones
I'll name names. Why does someone as talented, passionate, and articulate as Mario Batali have to use so much gratuitous vulgarity? I'm not a prude, and an occasional well-placed expletive can be useful on rare occasions. But c'mon Mario, this ain't the fraternity house, brutha.
Mario Unclogged: Marinara Sauce
With all due respect to Mr. Batali, I have to disagree about the obligate use of Italian tomatoes. While I am a firm believer in the concept of terroir, I am a firmer believer in the virtues of local food. Most areas of the US are capable of producing high-quality San Marzano tomatoes. The seeds of the variety are readily available, they are not difficult to grow, and they are easily preserved at home using well-known techniques.
I have tasted the tomatoes pictured above. They are indeed very good. I have also grown San Marzano and other varieties myself that are at least the equal of their Italian counterparts. I invite Mr. Batali to come enjoy my pizza with homegrown San Marzanos, and see if he can tell the difference.
Cook the Book: 'Beard on Food'
My friend Smitty, who showed me the possibilities that can be achieved with food and wine.
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Recent Comments | Response to Comments
Who Knew There Was a Conundrum?
Was anyone else astounded at the repeated references to rare cooking temps using standard supermarket ground beef?
Michael Ruhlman Interviews Judith Jones
I'll name names. Why does someone as talented, passionate, and articulate as Mario Batali have to use so much gratuitous vulgarity? I'm not a prude, and an occasional well-placed expletive can be useful on rare occasions. But c'mon Mario, this ain't the fraternity house, brutha.
Mario Unclogged: Marinara Sauce
With all due respect to Mr. Batali, I have to disagree about the obligate use of Italian tomatoes. While I am a firm believer in the concept of terroir, I am a firmer believer in the virtues of local food. Most areas of the US are capable of producing high-quality San Marzano tomatoes. The seeds of the variety are readily available, they are not difficult to grow, and they are easily preserved at home using well-known techniques.
I have tasted the tomatoes pictured above. They are indeed very good. I have also grown San Marzano and other varieties myself that are at least the equal of their Italian counterparts. I invite Mr. Batali to come enjoy my pizza with homegrown San Marzanos, and see if he can tell the difference.
Cook the Book: 'Beard on Food'
My friend Smitty, who showed me the possibilities that can be achieved with food and wine.
Cook the Book: 'How to Pick a Peach'
Cooking: tomatoes
Raw: tomatoes
Mario Unclogged: Marinara Sauce
I cant imagine making a marinara without basil, oregano, fresh black pepper or crushed red flake, and a bay leaf. Is the purpose of the carrot to take the acidic edge off of the tomatoes?
Also, I have seen real Italians add celery to their sauce as well. Not for me, thanks. btw, my mother was born in Venice of Italian parents, so that makes me anglo-venetian, but I learned to make sauce from my southern Italian buds.
Mario Unclogged: Marinara Sauce
I always put tomatoes through a food mill (smallest holes) to remove skins and seeds, which contribute the the bitter flavor people comment about. Nearly everyone I know puts sugar in their tomato sauce, even people "off the boat". Whenever I hear this, I know they aren't straining the tomatoes. It's a lot of work and makes a big mess, but I wouldn't make tomato sauce without doing it.
Mario Unclogged: Marinara Sauce
I know I'm late to the party and I don't know if this'll ever be answered, but I'm correct in assuming that the tomatoes used are *not* seeded at all? I've seen so many recipes go back and forth on the issue, and I'm curious about what everyone is doing with this particular recipe.
Mario Unclogged: Marinara Sauce
Ravara: Wut wut wut?!!! Of COURSE I have it! I've turned too many people on to Super Marzano not to have it Yes, yes, it's not technically San Marzano, it's better.....it's SUPER Marzano! Come on out to my tomato seedling sale and pick some up. I've always got a lot of Super Marzanos for peeps. www.GrowBetterVeggies.com
Does this constitute spam? Forgive me if so. Just trying to spread the tomato love....
Mario Unclogged: Marinara Sauce
In case anyone who might benefit sees this, I agree with gmunger that I'm sad to see Mario, who has seen the joys of California produce, claim you can't get good San Marzano tomatoes in the US. I assure you that Mariquita and twosmallfarms dot com have fabulous San Marzanos for cooking- they suck for raw stuff, they are TOO low acid, but holy jeez cooked.. Love Apple Farms doesn't have it on their grow list this season- http://loveapplefarm.typepad.com/growbetterveggies/love-apple-farms-2008-tom.html but I bet Cynthia can tell you something good...
Mario Unclogged: Marinara Sauce
This is the way I have always made my bacis tomato gravy (though not always with the carrot, though I can see using it for the sweetness it adds. This is a good basic tomato sauce. A good place to start off.
Who Knew There Was a Conundrum?
If you want a great hamburger/meatloaf, try using your own food processor to grind up a sirloin steak. Then flavor the meat with a combination of spices from your spice drawer, such as paprika, dried onion flakes, garlic powder, salt, pepper, oregano, etc, and then add ketchup, and bbq sauce, and mix it all up.
Michael Ruhlman Interviews Judith Jones
Okay, sorry, excuse me. Perhaps my attempt at humor was ill-conceived, and I apologize if I offended. It does seem to me that gmunger has a point about "an occasional well-placed expletive" being occasionally useful, but in an online forum such as this, the element of timing is lost, and that diminishes the effectiveness of it. So I'll be better behaved in the future.
Mario Unclogged: Marinara Sauce
I make a sauce from home-grown Roma tomatoes cut in half and layered with fresh basil and garlic cloves - slow cooked in the oven and then run through a food mill. I freeze as much as I can to get me through the winter. Don't add salt or pepper until you use it.
Add a couple heads of garlic to the roasting pan for other uses.
Mario Unclogged: Marinara Sauce
I have been using this recipe since 1997 when it was published (exactly as written here) in the New York Post with the title "Mario's Secret Sauce Recipe." My note says "From Chef Mario Batali, Po's Restaurant." How far he has come since then!
Mario Unclogged: Marinara Sauce
as an addendum....
Kim Pierce at the Dallas Morning News
http://eats.beloblog.com/archives/2007/10/dop_means_real_san_marzano_tom.html
has great info on the San Marzano DOP tomatoes. worth reading
cheers,
Mario Unclogged: Marinara Sauce
I made this tonight. Excellent! Thanks for posting.
Unfortunately, I had a jar of leftovers ready to go in the freezer, dropped it, and it spilled everywhere! Ouch.
Cook the Book: 'Beard on Food'
Thanks to everyone for commenting and congrats to our winners:
hotsaucedaily
beanish
justboycrazy
uninorth
topdog
gratefulted
kwanito
souldawg
jenjw4
hreisig
Cook the Book: 'How to Pick a Peach'
Thanks to everyone for commenting and congrats to our winners: tkln, bluebird, pezbabypez, JEP, nellopea, lorrior, dmbfanmd, jkiller5150, lekkercraft, lardarium.
Mario Unclogged: Marinara Sauce
I Google'd the cached page to see the picture that was removed and I've seen that brand at a local Italian market. In my opinion, the problem with those and most other canned tomatoes is the addition of citric acid. If you cook those down, the acid becomes more and more pronounced, making the sauce bitter. I have written it many times before on sites like this - the best tomatoes are the ones that have NO CITRIC ACID! Make a sauce with the precious San Marzanos like the ones pictured and a the same sauce with a can of regular tomatoes with no citric acid and see the difference. Now, if you can get San Marzanos with no citric acid (like you used to), it's Heaven.
Mario Unclogged: Marinara Sauce
Mark Bittman wrote a piece on the whole canned tomato issue in Cook's Illustrated of March/April 1994. A tasting was held with Anna Teresa Callen; Arthur Schwartz; Anna Amendolara Nurse; Iris Carulli; Julia della Croce; Tina della Croce; Tina Aprea, Jack Bishop and Mark Bittman. Really interesting article.
The final question though is not one of which tomatoes are "best" or which tomatoes are "authentic" in this case, for when someone writes a recipe as Mario did here, it is his perogative to say "This is how I make it and it is important (in order to do it my way) to use the ingredients as written". Alter the ingredients and you've got a different recipe - maybe just as good in taste to you, but different.
The Whole Foods canned tomato thing is amusing, though.
Mario Unclogged: Marinara Sauce
Ive made the same sauce all my adult life with the addition of fresh basil, unfortunately, in the wilds of Alabama, I cant find san marzano tomatoes. So i usually end up using a good brand organic, it seems to work out fine. also, instead or plain old kosher salt I really like gray salt, I know its probablty mind over matter, but I can taste the diff.
Mario Unclogged: Marinara Sauce
Neroda: They're Mario's words, and we try to add pictures to illustrate them. I made the mistake of using the wrong tomatoes. I apologize.
Mario Unclogged: Marinara Sauce
Adam,
Mario really isn't checking back here on things.
So who actually is putting these posts together?
I believe he would know if something is from Italy or not, yes?
Someone - please clarify?
Cook the Book: 'Beard on Food'
Gotta go with Mom on this one
Mario Unclogged: Marinara Sauce
I just removed the image of the questionable "San Marzano" canned tomatoes. Thanks for pointing that out, folks. I've never used those kind before—I usually use whatever I find at the grocery store that says "imported from Italy" on the label. Thanks.
Mario Unclogged: Marinara Sauce
I was just about to post "CAVEAT EMPTOR" in light of the deliberately deceptive label on the cans SOLD BY WHOLE FOODS MARKETS. Then I noticed others have posted the same warning. So, I'll add related comments:
1) I was fooled, too. It really is a marketing ploy, especially given the use of Italian words "Pomidori Pelati" in addition to retro-style graphics that are meant to appear Old World.
2) From what I understand, the prized tomatoes of San Marzano (near Naples) disappeared long, long ago. What I am writing here may not be accurate, so I am willing to stand corrected by an informed authority. However, I was told that seeds from these tomatoes were imported and grown elsewhere before the destruction of native crops and that "San Marzano" is now being used liberally as the name of a type of tomato whether or not the canned product can trace its lineage back to San Marzano.
Meanwhile, the area around San Marzano has become important both for living up to its traditional reputation for superior tomatoes and for processing tomatoes. Look for "DOP" on labels that promise the contents of the can were grown in San Marzano proper. Balducci sells them under the name La Valle for a low, promotional price; there are other brands that are also great. If the can does not say DOP, the tomatoes were shipped in from anywhere and merely processed near San Marzano. (And wait for a new article in The New Yorker about DOP tomatoes.)
3) I have to agree that there are other good brands of canned plum tomatoes. I've had luck w Ferrrara, recently. When in season, local plum tomatoes or even a mixture of different types of flavorful tomatoes produce a good sauce, though the yield on the latter is usually low if they're juicy and full of seeds. After all, local, seasonal, superior tomatoes honor the spirit of Italian cooking.
Cook the Book: 'Beard on Food'
My Italian immigrant grandparents: Grandpa would grow the produce in his backyard, teaching me at an early age that the freshest ingredients make all the difference in the world. Then Grandma would spend all day cooking, letting me help, and having to be "yelled at" ("Ange! Siddown!") to sit down and enjoy her own work.
Mario Unclogged: Marinara Sauce
Mmmm, can hardly wait to taste this! My favortie kind of sauce
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Was anyone else astounded at the repeated references to rare cooking temps using standard supermarket ground beef?