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From Serious Eats

Seriously Italian: Punctuating Flavors with Ricotta Salata

Thanks Ed! I was busy at the Bon Appetit Supper Club yesterday, and your comment was a bright spot in my day!

And I'm glad to see there are so many other ricotta salata fans out there. Maybe if we start asking for it, local grocery stores will start stocking it more...

From Recipes

Seriously Italian: Farfalle with Zucchini and Gorgonzola

Jackie,

I don't think Fontina will work with this recipe per se. The secret here is that the gorgonzola's very creamy texture and high fat content means that it simply melts right into all the other ingredients and disappears as a solid form, coating the pasta with its fat and flavor.

To duplicate that, I think you would need something that can melt in a similar way. Otherwise you are going to wind up with stringy globs; finely grated Fontina would make teeny stringy globs. A very creamy soft-ripened robiola, like La Tur, would work, maybe. If you can find it, Stracchino would probably melt similarly. I'd have to test it out for you to give a definitive answer.

From Recipes

Seriously Italian: A Sicilian Breakfast To Beat The Heat

Aw, crap, I couldn't remember if it was breakfast or dinner. We used to have that Cosby routine on LP, but we don't have it or a turntable anymore. Whenever I am in the kitchen making chocolate cake, I do the chant, "Dad is GREAT, gives us CHOCOLATE CAKE!!"

From Serious Eats

Seriously Italian: Speck from Alto Adige

There are versions of German speck which are very close to Italian lardo - almost all fat. Schinkenspecik is much meatier, but more heavily spiced, from what I have been told.

I did not picture bresoala here.

And I did not say that there are only smoked versions of ham or speck north of the Alps, nor do I think I made any sweeping statements or implications about German cured meats. I merely said that Alto Adige speck is not as heavily smoked in comparison to some of the smoked hams of Northern Europe.

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From Serious Eats

Seriously Italian: Punctuating Flavors with Ricotta Salata

Thanks Ed! I was busy at the Bon Appetit Supper Club yesterday, and your comment was a bright spot in my day!

And I'm glad to see there are so many other ricotta salata fans out there. Maybe if we start asking for it, local grocery stores will start stocking it more...

From Recipes

Seriously Italian: Farfalle with Zucchini and Gorgonzola

Jackie,

I don't think Fontina will work with this recipe per se. The secret here is that the gorgonzola's very creamy texture and high fat content means that it simply melts right into all the other ingredients and disappears as a solid form, coating the pasta with its fat and flavor.

To duplicate that, I think you would need something that can melt in a similar way. Otherwise you are going to wind up with stringy globs; finely grated Fontina would make teeny stringy globs. A very creamy soft-ripened robiola, like La Tur, would work, maybe. If you can find it, Stracchino would probably melt similarly. I'd have to test it out for you to give a definitive answer.

From Recipes

Seriously Italian: A Sicilian Breakfast To Beat The Heat

Aw, crap, I couldn't remember if it was breakfast or dinner. We used to have that Cosby routine on LP, but we don't have it or a turntable anymore. Whenever I am in the kitchen making chocolate cake, I do the chant, "Dad is GREAT, gives us CHOCOLATE CAKE!!"

From Serious Eats

Seriously Italian: Speck from Alto Adige

There are versions of German speck which are very close to Italian lardo - almost all fat. Schinkenspecik is much meatier, but more heavily spiced, from what I have been told.

I did not picture bresoala here.

And I did not say that there are only smoked versions of ham or speck north of the Alps, nor do I think I made any sweeping statements or implications about German cured meats. I merely said that Alto Adige speck is not as heavily smoked in comparison to some of the smoked hams of Northern Europe.

From Serious Eats

The Real Emotions Behind the 2009 James Beard Foundation Awards

I just want to say that I love you, Ed. You've been my biggest and best cheerleader for the past 11 years, and I treasure you!

When I was led into the press room, there was Ed, jumping up and down and scooping me up in huge hug! Best moment of the night for me....

And dang, you are a fantastically skinny dude.

I am happy to be alive. Hoping to stay that way...
http://www.ginadepalma.net/The_Cowgirl_Cure_Foundation.html

From Talk

Serious Efforts: Choc. flourless torte @ 5280 ft. — what went wrong?

Hi bisbee. Don't be disappointed. A flourless chocolate cake doesn't have any cake-like qualities - like sponginess. That is the whole point of it being flourless. There's no leavening, nothing but butter, sugar, chocolate and egg, by design it is supposed to be dense, fudgy, gooey in the center. It is especially true for this recipe; the eggs aren't even whipped. It sounds like it came out exactly as it should.

From Recipes

Seriously Italian: Pastiera (Ricotta and Cooked Grains Cake)

There are a plethora of easter (and carnevale) pies from many regions of Italy that are takes on the same theme, cheese and grain, cheese and meat. Some regions traditionally serve a yeast bread with local cheeses and sometimes meats worked into the dough.

This one is decidedly sweet and the common ingredient here is ricotta. Pizza Rustica (and its counterparts with different names) is filled with savory meats and cheeses, but some versions have a sweet crust. In the north, you would find northern cured meats and harder, more aged cheeses in addition to the ricotta; in the south the meats get spicier. This is something that has so many variations it is hard to give a general description...

Pizza Rustica is one of my favorites too! Similar to what Deb07 posted, my aunts use to come over and we would bang out five of them in huge roasting pans to feed the crowds. Those were some rough hours grating cheeses and cutting sausges!

This is most definitely my version of the Campania/Naples traditional Pastiera, which is its own thing!

From Talk

Panna Cotta

P.S.,
It lasts forever, too, if you keep it well wrapped!
I hate working with powdered gelatin....it is so great that home cooks have the alternative of sheets now. When I lived in Italy, I never, ever saw powdered gelatin, and you could find the sheets in any grocery store...I am hoping that this will be the case here someday.

From Recipes

Seriously Italian: Spaghetti All'Ubriaco

Thanks for being patient with me, folks! I heart SE!

I bet bucatini would be great with this method. Remember, proportions are all relative. You may want more wine in both pans for more wine flavor, and yes, more butter or olive oil may suit your needs!

Hope all the experiments work! My mom and I scarfed ours down pretty fast...

From Recipes

Seriously Italian: Spaghetti All'Ubriaco

Hi,
Sorry about the salt and draining confusion.
If you salt your pasta water generously, it should do the trick, but by all means, season this dish, or any dish, to your taste with salt.

And yes, drain the pasta whichever method you choose - some folks dump it into a strainer, I lift it out with tongs, or you may have one of those pasta pots with a drainer insert....

As for the dish just being okay - well, I enjoyed it and still do. Thank you for recalling the name of the restaurant; it has been some years since I was there and I had forgotten (sorry - chemo brain strikes). They were very kind to me when I was there.

Guess I didn't do a very good job this week - I apologize Serious Eaters and Team!

From Recipes

Seriously Italian: Cinnamon Breakfast Toasts

@jeanmarieok: Hi! Yes, they will keep very well, even a couple of weeks, in an airtight container.

From Recipes

Seriously Italian: Pasta alla Gricia

@mr_chorzo, I'll work on that for a part 2 post sometime soon!

From Recipes

Seriously Italian: Almond Olive Oil Cake for Valentine's Day

Everyone, I am so glad you are making the cake and loving it! It disappeared pretty fast at my house too!

@newyorkbaker, I don't have my own recipe for cannoli, but I really like the one in Mario's book, Holiday Food. I made the cannoli that are pictured in the book, and they were pretty wonderful.

As audrasena said, the orange juice in the recipe is primarily to add moisture, not orange flavor. I sometimes use oj when developing a recipe instead of milk, which contributes protein and changes the texture.

From Recipes

Serious Cookies: Cocoa Snowflakes

Hi Christina, you absolutely could leave out the nuts. Also the booze!

Thanks, everyone, for such a warm welcome back!

From Serious Eats: New York

Sugar Rush: Schiacciata Uva at Babbo

Hi! Its actually from my cookbook, Dolce Italiano: Desserts from the Babbo Kitchen! And Kathy is right - my rendition is brioche. So this is not authentic, but a sweet, dessert version of schiacciata.

Sorry - couldn't resist jumping in~

From Serious Eats

Snapshots from Italy: Eataly Torino

That is what I meant; I apologize if it wasn't clearer! I should add that my lunch was somewhere around €8 for the plate of pasta, and included mineral water, which was a nice, unexpected touch, since the water can really jack up any restaurant bill.

I thought Eataly was wondrous. I hope that came across.

From Recipes

Snapshots from Italy: Seeing Red at the Market

Hi there!
Great question. Yes, I must say that prices have gone up dramatically and are continuing to rise. I usually shop in Monteverde or Testaccio, because the Campo, and even Piazza San Calisto are expensive. Produce is still relatively reasonable, depending on what you buy. That day, I also bought 3 big potatoes, and 2 big red onions, and it was €.90, so it evens out sometimes. The strawberries were maybe €1.50.

Meat is really, really expensive; I only eat it twice a week, maybe. Pasta is more expensive than it used to be, but still an economical way to eat. I've been making pasta lately and it is a real money saver. With 3 eggs and 300 gms of flour, I can make enough pasta for 4-5 meals.

Most Romans know that prices can vary greatly from shop to shop, block to block, so they will go out of their way to find a good bargain.

Rome is overall a very expensive city. I am in Torino right now for a few days. Prices are much less expensive here, for everything. And the shopping is great, I must add. Eveyone who loves Italy should visit Torino. It is one of the great, grand European cities. I'm going to post on it soon!

From Recipes

Snapshots from Italy: Roman Easter Soup

To make any egg-enriched soup, I would use 1 egg yolk per 1 1/4 cups stock; flavor and season as you like! If you use whole eggs, you will get a stracciatella-effect, and the soup should actually come to a simmer to fully cook the eggs. I don't want to get too far off-topic, but if you have ever had stracciatella, you know what I mean. Good luck!

From Recipes

Snapshots from Italy: Tagliatelle with Artichokes, Leeks, and Lemon

Hi Ben! The artichokes here are gi-normous, I must say! Much bigger than the ones I am used to back in the States, which are probably more like to the ones you used. The first couple of times I have made this dish, I did it a la minute, and by cooking the artichokes a bit first, then adding the leeks, they softened up pretty fast with the lid on. But cooking them ahead of time can work too.

I had some friends over for dinner a few nights ago and wanted to cut down on my in-the-kitchen exile; an hour or so ahead of time, I sauteed the artichokes in a bit of olive oil, then added a bit of water and the lid to cook them through, and set them aside. I picked up the rest of the recipe by cooking the leeks, and added the chokes back to the pan when I added the lemon. It worked fine that way, so if anyone wants to break the recipe up in the same manner, go for it...

From Serious Eats

Snapshots from Italy: Crema di Gianduja

Hi Jen,
They are both quite good, and I think the Baratti is becoming my favorite...it will be a great gift for your sister!

From Serious Eats

Snapshots from Italy: Crema di Gianduja

Ciao! Yes, you are indeed correct. The formula for the U.S. market is much sweeter and firmer than what they sell here in Italy. I don't really like the Nutella sold in the States because of that, to be honest. The U.S. formula used to contain dreaded palm oil, but recently it was switched to vegetable oil. Regardless, it is nothing like real crema di gianduja. The Baratti & Milano is the least expensive of the bunch I mentioned above, and it is quite good.

From Serious Eats

Roman Perfection to Go

Thanks, everyone, for such a warm welcome! I actually was pushed and stomped on to get my pizza rossa that day - by a 7-year old boy. Nice. And he got the best piece. I promise to have my game on by the next post. My quest to find the traditional, the interesting and the delectable for Serious Eats readers will continue despite the obstacles!

From Serious Eats

Seriously Italian: Punctuating Flavors with Ricotta Salata

I thought I was the only one! Love, love, love ricotta salata and use it frequently. I particuarly like to sub rs for mozzarella in caprese. It holds its shape better and adds a fabulous saltiness and structure to the salad.

Gina...your other suggestions are inspired!

From Serious Eats

Seriously Italian: Punctuating Flavors with Ricotta Salata

I thought I was the only one! Love, love, love ricotta salata and use it frequently. I particuarly like to sub rs for mozzarella in caprese. It holds its shape better and adds a fabulous saltiness to the salad.

Gina...your other suggestions are inspired!

From Serious Eats

Seriously Italian: Punctuating Flavors with Ricotta Salata

your biscotti & Venetian Apple Cake were delicious ~ grateful to have the cake recipe ~ it will make a great treat for next year's Rosh Hashanah celebrations

From Recipes

Seriously Italian: A Sicilian Breakfast To Beat The Heat

Love your recipes. I was raised in an Italian family and of course we had macaroni every Sunday. But the treat was the extra meatballs, for breakfast, before they were put in the gravy. We had fried meatballs on hard rolls with butter, and of course no matter how young you were, a cup of coffee with "Lots" of milk. I have tired to carry out this tradition when my children were still living at home, and now they are still carrying it on.

From Recipes

Seriously Italian: Farfalle with Zucchini and Gorgonzola

Hey girls! Thanks so much....... the end result using Rondele [similar to Boursin I believe] with garlic/herb was delicious and this will indeed become a keeper! Very easy to make, as well as a very simple fresh taste. I otherwise followed Gina's recipe to the letter as I always do on the first run. That pasta water addition is an important point that should not be dismissed as well.
We had this recipe with Greek dry rubbed grilled pork tenderloin.......outstanding :)

From Recipes

Seriously Italian: Farfalle with Zucchini and Gorgonzola

Thanks Gina and blindowl............I will try that Boursoin this week!

From Recipes

Seriously Italian: Farfalle with Zucchini and Gorgonzola

Pine nuts occurred to me too, after I made this for the fourth time last night, and used yellow squash as well as zucchini. This is a great recipe from which to adapt, and a damn fine breakfast too.

From Recipes

Seriously Italian: Farfalle with Zucchini and Gorgonzola

Oooh, the toasted pine nuts idea sounds great! Making this for dinner tonight, but not sure if I have pine nuts lying around... I seem to recall all of the groceries stores being out of them last time I looked for them (very weird.... I gave up after three stores!)

From Recipes

Seriously Italian: Farfalle with Zucchini and Gorgonzola

Made this for dinner - really nice! I kept the zuke in half-moons, omitted the celery, and added some very finely chopped lacinata kale. Yum with pear cider out on the deck on this warm night.

From Recipes

Seriously Italian: Farfalle with Zucchini and Gorgonzola

Jackie,
Try Boursoin garlic & herb flavor. I've mixed it with egg noodles with good results, for a really quick dinner.

From Serious Eats

Seriously Italian: Speck from Alto Adige

My favorite place to go in Scarborough, Maine when I'm in the mood for a GREAT sandwhich or feeling like something delicate and refined, something like cheese, bread, and salumi, I go to The Cheese Iron. The service is excellent, and their knowledge of cheese, salumi, and wine are even MORE excellent They really make an assortment of cheese feel like you have gain a lot of knowledge in culinary culture AND they make it FUN! Highly Recommended!

From Recipes

Seriously Italian: Spaghetti All'Ubriaco

I studied in Florence for 4 months this past spring. This meal at Osteria de'Benci was the best of the semester. I did not find the staff rude at all. My other two guests enjoyed their dishes as well and the casa di vino rosso was very very good.

From Recipes

Seriously Italian: A Sicilian Breakfast To Beat The Heat

Just wait 'til I pull out this treat for the Sicilian BF ...

From Recipes

Seriously Italian: A Sicilian Breakfast To Beat The Heat

I love the contrast between Sicilian cooking, and that of my grandparents from under the shadow of Mt. Blanc in the far north of Italy. It’s like Garrison Keillor’s Norwegians of Lake Wobegon meet the next door Puerto Ricans. What’s not to love.

From Recipes

Seriously Italian: A Sicilian Breakfast To Beat The Heat

I love coffee granita, though I'm also partial to the lemon. And that gelato bun/sandwich is genius -- I'm tempted to try it with cassata-flavoured gelato, just to make it extra Sicilian.

From Recipes

Seriously Italian: A Sicilian Breakfast To Beat The Heat

Strawberry granita with just a small dollop of pane is, hands down, my favorite breakfast. Being second generation in America, some of my family's Sicilian traditions had not been translated to the younger generation. When I was afforded the opportunity to visit family outside of Messina, I jumped for it. This is what I ate every morning, with a caffe, right before heading out to all of the seafood vendors to order the days menu items - it was the perfect wake up! Whenever I have one now, it is like instant nostalgia....I'll have to purchase an ice cream maker ;)

From Serious Eats

Seriously Italian: Speck from Alto Adige

My wife and I came across some beatiful speck at Russo's market in Watertown, MA last weekend, and I put it to good use, wrapping it around some chicken and pan-searing it to crispness. I posted the recipe here!

From Recipes

Seriously Italian: A Sicilian Breakfast To Beat The Heat

This serves as proof that the Sicilians are an ingenious lot.

From Recipes

Seriously Italian: A Sicilian Breakfast To Beat The Heat

FINALLY! Vindicated!

I've been telling people for YEARS that ice cream (straightouttathecarton) makes for the best summer breakfast ever. :) Hey, it's dairy...not that different from milk and yogurt, right?

From Recipes

Seriously Italian: A Sicilian Breakfast To Beat The Heat

lovely!
@mr_chorizo, it is definitely not _hot_ here in seattle. comfortable, but not even close to hot!
i could go for some sicilian heat right now...and so could my tomatoes.
sigh, i'll just have to settle for gelato and brioche.

From Recipes

Seriously Italian: A Sicilian Breakfast To Beat The Heat

My Sicilian grandmother would make a big batch of espresso every night after dinner, sweeten it, let it cool, then stash it in the fridge. In the morning, she would pour it over her cereal with a little milk. My personal preference was always count chocula, but I think that much sugar and caffeine first thing in the morning would probably be too much for my system to handle nowadays.

From Recipes

Seriously Italian: A Sicilian Breakfast To Beat The Heat

Not sure why this is such a novel idea since I've watched people order a vente Caramel Macchiato (sp?) with extra whipped cream at 7am.

From Recipes

Seriously Italian: A Sicilian Breakfast To Beat The Heat

I tried to sell this at Otto for a few years,but nobody got it....It was My favorite breakfast anyhow...:coffee granita,brioche and caramel whipped cream at 10am....

From Recipes

Seriously Italian: A Sicilian Breakfast To Beat The Heat

There is a great chapter in "The Man Who Ate Everything" by Jeffrey Steingarten where he travels to Sicily to learn and eat their fabulous granita. I just finished the book yesterday. There are recipes too, but like Gina's, they are simple. Thanks for the post. It is hot here in Seattle so a granita sounds great.

From Recipes

Seriously Italian: A Sicilian Breakfast To Beat The Heat

Ah, sounds like a delicious idea for long, languid summer days with my Sicilian husband! Thanks so much for sharing this. :)

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About Gina DePalma

Website: http://www.ginadepalma.net

Location: New York, NY and occasionally, Rome, Italy

About: I've been the Pastry Chef of Babbo Restaurant and Enoteca for the past ten years, and my cookbook, Dolce Italiano was published in October of 2007. Right now, I'm researching book number two in Italy, and am the Rome correspondent for Serious Eats

Favorite foods: anything lemon, pasta of all shapes, my mom's Sunday sugo, a perfect grilled cheese sandwich, toast with butter and jam, ripe peaches.....

Last bite on earth: un bacio from someone who loves me.