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How to Make Dulce de Leche From a Can of Sweetened Condensed Milk

I think I'll pass on this. The minor convenience of skipping the jar isn't worth the risks of explosions and toxins, IMO. And I would absolutely not try "pouring the condensed milk in a can and using a microwave" or keeping a can I cooked around on a shelf. Cans are meant for storing, not slow cooking, and definitely not slow cooking then storing. Boiling the can for hours could compromise the integrity of the can, causing pin holes or split seams that you might not see.

The Best Pizza by the Slice in San Francisco

I have a theory on the overall lack of pizza by-the-slice quality in the Bay Area and most other parts of the country: it's partly the consumers' fault because they don't get it. The need to specify "cheese slice" and the idea that folding the slice is a NY thing are deficiencies in PBTS culture and hindrances to quality slice production. The production problem relates to the fact that it's hard to produce decent slices without consistent, reasonably high volumes. And that means you need a lot of customers coming and going quickly. Which means, get your slice and get out. Eat it while you walk, one-handed. You need to fold it.

The "cheese" specifying is full of problems. First off, it's a ridiculous choice of things to call it. How many slices shops sell slices without cheese? It's also just inefficient. Not in a big way in itself, but it contributes to the slow mentality that plagues the system. And the biggest problem, imo, is the implication of choice. Sure, you can choose something besides a plain slice, but for the most part, you shouldn't. All that "hmmm...I guess I'll have...1 of these and...what's that?...blah blah blah" slows things down and makes for worse slices. Not to mention the fact that the place has to provide all those choices, instead of focusing on and cranking out optimal slices.

I hate the way people throw around "___ nazi", but the fictionalized soup nazi's mentality was exactly right for a slice shop: know what you want, order quickly, have your money out, get out of the way. He may have seemed like a jerk, but he was doing Jerry, Elaine and all the others a favor.

The Best Pizza by the Slice in San Francisco

Wow - I was at one of these places shortly after you posted the pics on twitter, but before I saw them. Then when I saw your pics, I didn't recognize it at all. The crust on the slice I got was floppy, super greasy, and monotone pale yellow. The previous time I ate there it was so tough my jaw hurt after eating it.

I also went to Presidio Pizza Co. a few days ago. I decided against the grandma (the cornicione was almost twice as wide as the one in your picture), but now I wish I had tried it. My daughter and I both liked the regular slice, and she's the pickiest pizza eater I know.

The Real Reason Sugar Has No Place in Cornbread

I would have been a bit surprised if a post about Southern corn bread tradition DIDN'T mention Anson Mills.

The Truth About Cast Iron Pans: 7 Myths That Need To Go Away

Behrens - it sounds like you have partially polymerized oil spots. If so, then further cooking might turn them into finished (hard & slick) seasoning. However, you might not want that. Relatively thick, spotty seasoning isn't really what you want.

A pan that is sticky after long periods of non-use probably doesn't indicate that the seasoning came off, but that it was left with unsaturated oil residue which has "dried" - somewhat polymerized, but not hardened. I would try to remove it without removing the seasoning beneath. Moderate heat might soften it to the point where a lot of rubbing, maybe with soap, could remove it.

The Truth About Cast Iron Pans: 7 Myths That Need To Go Away

I was expecting the tag to show. <em>


The Truth About Cast Iron Pans: 7 Myths That Need To Go Away

"Your piece emphasizes polymerized oil"
This is indisputably true, in that it uses the emphasis tag: "polymerized oil"

I have a stainless steel pan with a very durable coating of seasoning on it. If you want bullet-proof seasoning on stainless or any other pan, the best method, in my experience, is to do it accidentally.

I worked at place where we toasted bread brushed with olive oil on aluminum pizza plates in a wood-fired oven, right next to the roaring fire. The dishwashers [people] would scrub the pans with steel scrubbers then run them through the commercial dishwasher [machine]. They still built up tough-as-nails seasoning, which we occasionally burned off by leaving them in the back of the oven.

The Truth About Cast Iron Pans: 7 Myths That Need To Go Away

I concur with all your points, Kenji. I think I do - I didn't go back and check every single one. Something else I believe now, after years of trying things and messing up frequently: don't over-season your pan, and babying it is bad for it. You don't want to build up layers of weak seasoning. Put minimal seasoning on a new pan, keep it oiled, use it a lot, and clean it pretty aggressively to remove both food bits and weak bits of seasoning.
dagaetch - the salt thing has always shocked me. Not that it can't be useful, but there are many people who are afraid of soap and scrubbies, yet think grinding little rocks into their seasoning is fine.

Spacca Napoli's Jonathan Goldsmith on Italian Culture and the Power of Pizza

That Margherita pic is making me sooooo hungry.

Kenji's NYC Bucket List: What I'll Miss Most

My tips for moving from NYC to SF (apologies for some repeats of above):

1) "The City" - people from the Bay Area are not referring to NYC when they say "the City". Weird, huh? Someone recently told me that a pizzeria in the East Bay had the best pizza anywhere, and she added "and I'm from the City!". I had to stop and think. It sounded like the kind of authority that NYers often claim...but eventually I correctly guessed that she was referring to SF, for some reason.
2) Call it "Frisco". Really, do.
3) If you're in the Bay Area, 80W goes toward "the City" and the ocean, not 80E. I've had to make an embarrassing number of u-turns since moving west.
4) What that other person said about people crossing the street. Traffic has nothing to do with it - they just do what the sign says. If the sign changes to walk, they'll step in front of a moving car without so much as a glance to the left. In a post-apocalyptic hellscape, they'll be stuck on whatever block they were on before the power went out.
5) When you make a right turn at a light, in car, with blinker, someone on a bicycle will try to pass you on the right as you do so. And they'll think you're the idiot. Also, cars are SUPPOSED to merge into the bike lane before turning - that's what the dashed line is for. It's meant to stop bikers from doing the aforementioned, but it doesn't. It makes them yell at the driver.
6) Motorcyclists think that riding on the lane lines between cars is legal, and, get this, the safer thing to do. Ponch and Jon included ( And, thanks to checks-and-balances, this makes it effectively "true". The legal part, that is. However, if you ever find yourself in an argument over the legality of it, say, as a motorcyclist vs a non-motorcycle cop, or as the driver of a car that is suddenly missing a mirror, you should be familiar with CVC21658a and CVC22107, for starters.
7) No one seems to know what cars are supposed to do around cable cars and their tracks.

Looks like I got into a bit of a driving tangent there, but you don't really need another opinion of In 'N Out, do you?

Don Antonio Brings World-Class Pizza to Atlanta

Count me among the droolers. I don't think the crust is so thick, except in the handle. I think Roberto is a cornicione "former" - meaning that he makes the edge thicker before baking.

Is it safe to assume that the pies here are on par with Keste? I'm probably not going to be Atlanta any time soon.

PizzaHacker is My New Go-To in San Francisco

As the sagacious and handsome "f r y" said about a year ago:

"Even a 100% PizzaHacker place wouldn't necessarily be trying to replicate his prior work."

PizzaHacker is My New Go-To in San Francisco

Jello Shots? I definitely should have come earlier.

Pizza Slice: You're Eating it Wrong

He's lucky Patsy was in a good mood.

PizzaHacker is My New Go-To in San Francisco

I skipped lunch, sat down at my computer to get work done, and then this comes up. How am I supposed to work now? I'm _starving_.

Maggie - I arrived at the bday party pretty late. Did we meet? I pro'lly would have remembered if we did.

Open Thread: What Was Your Best Pizza of 2013?

I look at Paulie's post and think "Man, I must be doing this wrong." At the moment, I can only think of 4 places I've eaten pizza at this year: Emilia's, Del Popolo, PizzaHacker (the new place, codename phatco), and Slicer. I had my hands in the first 3, and the fourth one was just opened by another friend (and former co-worker), so I really haven't gotten out much. Oh, wait, no, I just thought of 2 other places, but they weren't worth naming here.

So, with that disclaimer, all the pizza I had from friends' places was fantastic. Sure, there's bias there, but which way does it go? Do I like their pizzas because they are my friends, or are they my friends because I like their pizzas?

My Pie Monday: Fig and Caper Pizza, Coconut Milk Mozzarella, and More!

dhorst - that coconut milk mozz wasn't cooked on the pizza, right? Did you try that?

Also, do you have a light hand with the Aleppo pepper? I can't see it.

Pizza Obsessives: Jimmy Coponi

"It seems like more is being read into this article than was intended."


My Pizza Oven: Tailbiter's FrankenEgg

When I put in the euro sign, it looks fine in preview, but shows up as an a with a carat followed by a dash the drops down at then end. I'm going to enter those characters to see how they show up.



My Pizza Oven: Tailbiter's FrankenEgg

Gonna back JEL up here. Antico was the highlight of my recent ATL pizza crawl (if that word can be used to describe travelling at least 45 minutes by car any time I went anywhere). Definitely one of the most evocative of Naples amongst U.S. pizzerias I've visited, except for a few minor things (anticO instead of anticA, $18 instead of €4, putting "dal 1889" in their logo vs. actually being around since the 19th century). Having 3 ovens reminds me specifically of Trianon, except that I could imagine Trianon actually needing 3 ovens. Antico was packed when I was there, and one oven could easily keep up.

My Pizza Oven: Tailbiter's FrankenEgg

AK: you mean VINCENT, not Maximillian, I assume. I'd love an oven that could communicate via ESP like VINCENT.

Pizza My Mind: What's Up With Take-Out Pizza in a Bag?

Yeah, you shouldn't have been surprised that Patsy's old place would use bags just like his new place. If you had gone to Grimaldi's in Hoboken, however, you would have gotten a box (unless things have reverted). Seems there was an employee there who thought the bags were kinda dumb, especially since the Hoboken Grimaldi's delivers. He'd say "yeah, I know Patsy likes the bags, but he's not delivering the pizzas, is he?". He was quite brash. And handsome.

BTW: barbie tables. Those little white discs with three legs are meant to keep the bag or box from collapsing onto the pizza. The protocol with the bags was to use several if pizzas were to be stacked. But, since you only got 1 pie from Grimaldi's, I wouldn't expect they'd do that.

First Look: The Forge, Oakland, CA

I've seen your oven on pizzamaking - I envy your oven, and, more-so, your design and fab skills. But I think you're selling yourself short - if you can design and build a high performance oven like that, I'm sure you could figure out a way of burning just the bottom of a pizza in it.

"they all agree they are great at 700-750" - so, maybe it's not such a poor choice if they aren't going for 60s pies? Better Neapolitan capabilities might be nice, anyway, but perhaps not worth some trade-offs I could hypothesize (direct cost, planning and approval time and costs, ability to cook things other than pizzas in it, etc.).

My Pie Monday: BBQ Brisket, Pizza Pringles, Kobe Beef Bacon, and More!

How'd the pan work out for you, Adam?

First Look: The Forge, Oakland, CA

@shuboyje, my comment about fine tuning was more about distribution than overall heat level. I wouldn't call panic-firing fine tuning, but a more extreme example of problems & corrections that can happen at the beginning of service.

I'm not trying to defend or even compare different ovens. I'm just saying that it's hard to blame any one thing based on one pizza made under uncertain circumstances, and that there really isn't much blame to go around here. It's very possible to get unbalanced pizzas out of balanced ovens. If you asked Anthony Mangieri to burn just the bottom of your pizza, he probably wouldn't, but he could. I'm sure Paulie G, TXCraig1, etc., could as well.

I'm curious about the origins of the Valoriani reputation you referred to. Other than MP, are there others who have significant real-world experience cooking in both Valoriani and other WFOs who have publicly given their opinion? By significant, real-world experience, I'm thinking firing 100+ times and cooking 10,000+ pizzas in each.

f r y hasn't written a post yet.

First Look: Some Great Pizza at Emilia's Pizzeria in Berkeley, California

Clockwise from top left: Emilia's Pizzeria during a recent friends-and-family night, owner-pizzaiolo Keith Freilich, a plain pie hot out of the oven. [Photographs: Adam Kuban] Emilia's Pizzeria 2995 Shattuck Avenue, Berkeley CA 94705 (at Ashby Avenue; map); Getting There: By car, it's at the corner of Shattuck and Ashby avenues; closest BART stop is the Ashby Avenue Station Pizza Style: Thin-crust, New York–coal-oven-esque Oven Type: A very hot Wolf "Pizza Grande" gas-fired oven The Skinny: Whether you're a whiny New Yorker looking for familiar-tasting pizza or someone who's never set foot in the Big Apple, the pizza at... More