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My Pizza Oven: Tailbiter's FrankenEgg

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My Pizza Oven: Tailbiter's FrankenEgg

Gonna back JEL up here. Antico was the highlight of my recent ATL pizza crawl (if that word can be used to describe travelling at least 45 minutes by car any time I went anywhere). Definitely one of the most evocative of Naples amongst U.S. pizzerias I've visited, except for a few minor things (anticO instead of anticA, $18 instead of €4, putting "dal 1889" in their logo vs. actually being around since the 19th century). Having 3 ovens reminds me specifically of Trianon, except that I could imagine Trianon actually needing 3 ovens. Antico was packed when I was there, and one oven could easily keep up.

My Pizza Oven: Tailbiter's FrankenEgg

AK: you mean VINCENT, not Maximillian, I assume. I'd love an oven that could communicate via ESP like VINCENT.

Pizza My Mind: What's Up With Take-Out Pizza in a Bag?

Yeah, you shouldn't have been surprised that Patsy's old place would use bags just like his new place. If you had gone to Grimaldi's in Hoboken, however, you would have gotten a box (unless things have reverted). Seems there was an employee there who thought the bags were kinda dumb, especially since the Hoboken Grimaldi's delivers. He'd say "yeah, I know Patsy likes the bags, but he's not delivering the pizzas, is he?". He was quite brash. And handsome.

BTW: barbie tables. Those little white discs with three legs are meant to keep the bag or box from collapsing onto the pizza. The protocol with the bags was to use several if pizzas were to be stacked. But, since you only got 1 pie from Grimaldi's, I wouldn't expect they'd do that.

First Look: The Forge, Oakland, CA

I've seen your oven on pizzamaking - I envy your oven, and, more-so, your design and fab skills. But I think you're selling yourself short - if you can design and build a high performance oven like that, I'm sure you could figure out a way of burning just the bottom of a pizza in it.

"they all agree they are great at 700-750" - so, maybe it's not such a poor choice if they aren't going for 60s pies? Better Neapolitan capabilities might be nice, anyway, but perhaps not worth some trade-offs I could hypothesize (direct cost, planning and approval time and costs, ability to cook things other than pizzas in it, etc.).

My Pie Monday: BBQ Brisket, Pizza Pringles, Kobe Beef Bacon, and More!

How'd the pan work out for you, Adam?

First Look: The Forge, Oakland, CA

@shuboyje, my comment about fine tuning was more about distribution than overall heat level. I wouldn't call panic-firing fine tuning, but a more extreme example of problems & corrections that can happen at the beginning of service.

I'm not trying to defend or even compare different ovens. I'm just saying that it's hard to blame any one thing based on one pizza made under uncertain circumstances, and that there really isn't much blame to go around here. It's very possible to get unbalanced pizzas out of balanced ovens. If you asked Anthony Mangieri to burn just the bottom of your pizza, he probably wouldn't, but he could. I'm sure Paulie G, TXCraig1, etc., could as well.

I'm curious about the origins of the Valoriani reputation you referred to. Other than MP, are there others who have significant real-world experience cooking in both Valoriani and other WFOs who have publicly given their opinion? By significant, real-world experience, I'm thinking firing 100+ times and cooking 10,000+ pizzas in each.

First Look: The Forge, Oakland, CA

The O/U on first Valoriani-bashing was 3 comments, so it's a push.

I don't think the partners and Jeffs intended for the Forge to duplicate Jeff K's PizzaForge pizzas, despite the name. I see a lot of Pizzaiolo / Boot and Shoe in the pizzas at the Forge. Even a 100% PizzaHacker place wouldn't necessarily be trying to replicate his prior work. So, I agree that the comparisons are somewhat moot.

I also agree that the picture shows a pizza that, to me, is too scorched. But, it's also just _a_ pizza, probably one of the first of the night, definitely one of the first nights. Actually, looking closer, most of the charring looks to have virtually no depth. The patch in the center of the picture would likely disintegrate before it reached your mouth. Lauren actually ate that pie (I presume), and seemed to find the char well balanced. Anyway, the pizzas I've had there have had better looking char, per Slice norms.

The first-of-the-night thing is significant. It takes some time to fine-tune the oven. You're more likely to get it close-to-right at the start with a more massive oven, but it's faster to correct in a less massive one. I've seen 3 of the most revered pizza makers in the world start service, then stop to panic-firing cold ovens or let hot ones cool down.

Juliana's: Patsy Grimaldi's New Pizzeria in Search of a Legacy

"the Ciolli family, to whom he sold his original Grimaldi's location and naming rights"

In light of the Grimaldi-Ciolli feud, I think it's worth mentioning that not all "Grimaldi's" pizzerias are owned by the Ciolli family. When Patsy retired, there were 2 - in Brooklyn and in Hoboken. Frank Ciolli bought the Brooklyn location. The Hoboken location is still owned by Patsy's partner.

The Pizza Lab: Foolproof Pan Pizza

One other thing - after barely re-seasoning it, it released pretty well. With pies like this, it doesn't require much.

The Pizza Lab: Foolproof Pan Pizza

Adam - the seasoning on the outside of the pans was thin and spotty. It looked terrible, but, the pans didn't rust, so that wasn't a big deal. The insides, however, were thickly spotted. Soft and globby, it was. You can get an idea of how thick the spots were from the highlights on the side of the pan in the picture below, which I took of the pan before doing anything with it.

Following the directions that came with, I set out to waste a few pizzas in one pan until it started releasing well. After one pie, I decided that was a waste of time, and resolved to burn of all the seasoning and start fresh. The seasoning was already pealing off, anyway. The pie had stuck to the pan, and the seasoning had stuck to the pie. I don't know how dangerous it is to eat polymerized and carbonized oil, but it's not appetizing.

I would recommend burning off the stuff, not using lye / oven cleaner. Detroit pans have folds that might trap the caustic chemicals and then leak them into your pie. They shouldn't crack like cast iron might when burning off seasoning, but I would bring it up to temperature and cool it off somewhat slowly anyway, to prevent possibly possible warping.

The Pizza Lab: Foolproof Pan Pizza

As someone who:

a) cooked at Pizza Hut in the 80s
b) does 3 or 4 pan pizza experiments a week, searching for the ideal

I would say this looks a lot more like my pies from b than from a. A whole lot. For instance, just from the pictures: the toppings out to the edge (happened at PH, but wasn't supposed to), the irregular cell structure, the apparent depth of crispiness on the bottom. But, I'd really like to have a couple of pans from my PH days. I think they were probably aluminum - but whenever I try aluminum these days, the pie welds itself to the pan. Maybe naturally fermented dough is stickier?

Speaking of pans, I got some pre-seasoned detroit-style pans from one of those "world champion" guys. Don't do it. The seasoning was just soooooooooo ridiculously bad. I fixed that, but that kind of pan is too thin for what I'm doing.

The Serious Eats Guide To Pizza In Naples

Alright, so I found the scene here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bObjXY24Ei4

I'm guessing it comes early in the movie. Doesn't seem like that momentous a scene - but, then, I haven't seen or been interested in seeing the movie.

2 points of interest (to me): the pizzas are sliced in the movie. Several movie-making reasons for doing this come to mind, but, still.

My search also turned up this AK post: http://slice.seriouseats.com/archives/2010/08/where-does-julia-roberts-eat-pizza-in-eat-pray-love-pizza-part-movie-pizzeria-da-michele-naples-italy.html

In that post is this quote from the book: "By 1 p.m., the streets outside the pizzeria have become jammed with Neapolitans trying to get into the place, shoving for access like they're trying to get space on a lifeboat."

So, I'm going with the "I was just lucky" explanation.

The Serious Eats Guide To Pizza In Naples

"I don't know whether things have changed in recent years or it's simply misinformation"

It's misinformation. Probably the point being made was that they don't slice it the way we usually do in the USA. But folding the pizza "a libretto" is not new.

Interesting to see how da Michele has huge lines now. Like Di Fara (was), it was basically empty when I went there. Don't know if it's because it has gotten more popular in recent years, like Di Fara, or if I was just lucky. I'm sure the line moves faster at da Michele.

First Look: Handsome Pizza in Portland, OR

@AK - yes, I also see how it could be misinterpreted. That's the whole "minor changes in syntax, tone, or diction" thing. And, it reminds me to pause before reacting when I might be the one doing the misinterpreting, as a customer or just in general. As a proprietor, of course, I'm especially careful about overreacting. I was even polite to the punk kids I caught stealing from the tip jar.

#chilies: If there's a harder way of doing something, I'll find it. But, grinding my own chilies is definitely worth the effort. Three reasons:

- the obvious: freshly ground, they have more flavor and heat (which made it especially shocking to me the second time that guy dumped a shakerful onto his pizza. I thought he was really going to regret it the first time.)

- I grind them more finely than standard, which lets the flavors meld into the pizza more. And, they come out of the shaker better.

- I get to use my own blend of chilies, which, IIMSSM, are more flavorful and interesting than straight cayenne.

@Lance: I dunno. I was similarly surprised when this article came out and I discovered that Will, who was the person I alluded to in my first comment, was egadman.

First Look: Handsome Pizza in Portland, OR

No problem: after I told the guy what the next available pizza time was, he said (paraphrasing): "Oh, well, if that's what it has to be." But, it wasn't the ONLY available time, so I said "you can pick it up later if you prefer." Then came the cursing, etc. People choose later times pretty much every day, but I guess the concept seemed absurd to him. Kinda like how some people want pineapple on their pizzas, and others think it's absurd. I wonder if anybody goes around yelling at anyone who offers them that.

I've got a good customer who leaves the shaker on his dirty plate every time. Another, less-regular guy takes the top off the shaker and dumps whatever is in there on his pizza. I've got another shaker hidden behind the counter, because I can't stop to grind more chilis mid-service.

First Look: Handsome Pizza in Portland, OR

A partial list of things I completely agree with:

"in my anxiety-ridden noggin, [five minutes] seems to be an eternity and feels unforgivable"

"It seems that even minor changes in syntax, tone, or diction can make a major difference in my ability to make a sale, or make a customer feel welcome or comfortable." - I remember too well the time that a would-be-repeat-customer called me a f****** a******, hung up on me, and wrote a couple of scathing yelp & google reviews after he mistook a genuine attempt at being helpful as sarcasm.

"I've noticed people don't read signs or menus very carefully" - you could tattoo "Please Wait to be Seated" on some people, and they would go seat themselves in a hidden corner before the blood dried.

"always clean-up after themselves" - Not sure if you meant that in a good way. I often need to ask departing customers, "in an amiable and clear fashion", not to move their dirty napkins and dishes to the clean table next to them. I'm pretty sure they are trying to be helpful.

"My work-life balance isn't quite there yet, but the longer I do this, hopefully the better that will be." - Charlie Hallowell, the chef/owner of Pizzaiolo, had a sous-chef run the kitchen 1 dinner a week (out of 5) from the get-go, so he could spend the night with his kids. That decision seems smarter and smarter as each of my weeks goes by.

First Look: Handsome Pizza in Portland, OR

Hey - I was just telling someone I was going to check out this place if / when I get back up to Portland. Now, more so.

My Pie Monday: Pizze Polacco, Country Ham, Rosas and More!

Top 10 Questions and Comments of the New York City Health Inspectors -

10. Does your chef even own a shirt?

Late Night with David Letterman, October 20, 1989


Which, in turn, reminds me of maybe the only part of a Twilight movie I've seen: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xf_KB9HCILQ

Top Ten Daily Slices of 2012

Oh, man. Why couldn't you have posted this 2 days earlier? I drove through Tucker, GA twice the day before this article was posted. Shorty's might have livened up my Cold-lanta pizza tour. (Antico in Atlanta was the clear favorite of the entire family - but why is it Antico instead of Antica? And did they really need 3 ovens for 1 guy making pizzas?)

Where to Eat Pizza in NYC: The Ultimate 15 Pizzeria Itinerary

"I also factored in walking—lots of it."

I had to buy new socks before the end of day 1 on my 2 day, 13 pizzeria trip.

Gift Guide: For the Pizza-Maker

Anyone know if there's an industrial-sized version of the Danish dough whisk? Something that could handle 40 lbs of dough without breaking?

Mother Dough: Is "Good" Good Enough in Los Angeles?

Doing all the pizzamaking himself, and closing when his starter tanks - these things don't make Compani a pizza fascist, or even especially obsessive. Not allowing substitutions gets him closer to fascism, but maybe he's got a good reason for that (like, hey, people are waiting an hour, he's gotta crank out some pies). I draw the line at pizzerias that refuse to cut pizzas for people who are sharing. I'm not accusing Compani of that, however, because I haven't been there. I would have gone if this review came out a month earlier. Instead I ended up at 800 degrees, twice.

Next time, I'll take the one-man-band place over the "you want fries with that?" place. Actually, that's not fair - I've never been to McDonald's and received on order of fries that was burnt, another that was almost raw, and a 3rd that was half burnt, half almost raw.

Mother Dough: Is "Good" Good Enough in Los Angeles?

'For every example one could offer of this being the case, there are an equal or greater number showing that employees have the the "right stuff".'

I'd say there's probably a much greater number of the latter, if for no other reason than that I can't think of many one-man-show pizza makers.

I would almost expect that someone like Paulie has someone who can produce pizzas to Paulie's specs faster and more consistently than Paulie himself can. But, if I could, I'd probably opt for an all-Paulie pie, not because it would be intrinsically superior (in blind tasting ways), but because it would be intrinsically Paulie-er (perhaps only in imaginary ways).

I would readily admit that I'm not wise or humble - but then I'd be contradicting myself. My head was not built with paradox-absorbing crumple zones. Plus, by my count, I used "I", "my" and "myself" 17 times in this comment, so I'd be lying. To myself.

The Pizza Lab: The Baking Steel Delivers

@imwalkin: just to clarify, I meant that I'd be more inclined to buy a "food safe" piece of steel, not that I'd be inclined to buy one with mill scale and leave it on there.

What I really want to know is how evenly a 3/4" slab will heat over 2 burners. I've got 3 griddles, and none can cook pancakes well. What are you using, @luosha? I think a flat bottom griddle is the way to go - the griddle/grill reversible ones don't like to sit flat (mostly because of the lip and grease trap).

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First Look: Some Great Pizza at Emilia's Pizzeria in Berkeley, California

Clockwise from top left: Emilia's Pizzeria during a recent friends-and-family night, owner-pizzaiolo Keith Freilich, a plain pie hot out of the oven. [Photographs: Adam Kuban] Emilia's Pizzeria 2995 Shattuck Avenue, Berkeley CA 94705 (at Ashby Avenue; map); emiliaspizzeria.com Getting There: By car, it's at the corner of Shattuck and Ashby avenues; closest BART stop is the Ashby Avenue Station Pizza Style: Thin-crust, New York–coal-oven-esque Oven Type: A very hot Wolf "Pizza Grande" gas-fired oven The Skinny: Whether you're a whiny New Yorker looking for familiar-tasting pizza or someone who's never set foot in the Big Apple, the pizza at... More