Profile

cpd007

I'm a life long Chicagoan, and have lived on both the North and South sides. Currently, live on the north side with my wife.

  • Location: Chicago
  • Favorite foods: Deep dish pizza and a combo, ( Italian beef and Italian sausage made over charcoal ) extra juicy with both sweet peppers and hot giardiniera from Johnnie's Beef in Elmwood Park, IL.
  • Last bite on earth: An Italian beef/sausage combo, extra juicy, sweet and hot, with a lemon ice from Johnnie's in Elmwood Park.

Spacca Napoli's Jonathan Goldsmith on Italian Culture and the Power of Pizza

This is an excellent article about an excellent, extraordinary man, who makes excellent pizza. His mark on the Neapolitan scene in Chicago is permanent, and I firmly believe Spacca Napoli's version of Neapolitan pizza would be destination pizza anywhere in America. Good stuff.

Coconut, Vinegar, and a Whole Lotta Pork: An Introduction to Filipino Cuisine

@RealMenJulienne: Anytime, buddy- anytime. You just hit all my favorite food groups!

Coconut, Vinegar, and a Whole Lotta Pork: An Introduction to Filipino Cuisine

@uberathlete: I 100% agree.

Coconut, Vinegar, and a Whole Lotta Pork: An Introduction to Filipino Cuisine

@RealMenJulienne: My brother- we could come up with a Best Chinese Chicago Non-Tony Hu Addition. I was actually at Lao Beijing a while back. Not bad, and I definitely like Lao Sze Chuan, too. Tony's Three Chili Chicken may be the best chicken dish in Chinatown. I'll definitely give the Serious Eats staff that. But that's where it ends for me. When it comes to traditional rice dishes, I definitely prefer other places in Chicago's Chinatown over any of Tony Hu's places.

@OneWallKitchen: Great points. I have the same built-in ratings scale when it comes to Filipino food. And the comparisons are ALWAYS against my mother's recipes. For better or worse, we, as Filipino's, do this much more frequently than we all realize.

Coconut, Vinegar, and a Whole Lotta Pork: An Introduction to Filipino Cuisine

@RealMenJulienne: No, I'm Filipino and Chinese, buddy. My wife is born and raised Elmwood Park Italian, as are many of my friends and family. My mom still goes "home" to Leyte every year for the town fiesta, and I go home when I can. Believe me, I stood out like a sore thumb in my old neighborhood because of my heritage. That allowed me to look at their food (Italian) from an outsider's perspective- ON TASTE ALONE.

And because of where I grew up, I have a very healthy respect for the old world Italian grocery store (Al and Joe's in Franklin Park, Alpine in Elmwood Park, Nottoli on Belmont in Chicago). The Italian community where I grew up has a lot of love for these places, along with Johnnie's Beef and Gene and Jude's. And believe me- I get it. I understand their sentiment and loyalty. I grew up on these places, too, and for all of us in the neighborhood, to eat beef or hot dogs anywhere else was strange. I can hear my wife's relatives screaming at me right now! My wife, too.

But in the end, I'm just your average, every day, blue collar, Chicago guy who likes his blue collar foods. And us city workers eat at a lot of places around the city, and we all have our favorites, especially when it comes to Italian beef, Italian subs, hot dogs, and pizza. And yes, Lou Malnati's is a huge favorite of city workers no matter how much Serious Eats tries to downplay their importance/standing/influence on the Chicago food scene.

But when it comes to Filipino and Chinese food, that's my heritage, and I'm super picky about both cuisines. I often don't agree with the Serious Eats love for all the Tony Hu joints in Chinatown, but whatever- to each his own. Many of us Filipino/Chinese guys privately laugh every time Serious Eats writes some glowing article about one of his new joints in Chinatown. But if that's where Serious Eats wants to throw all their love, then so be it. It's always great to see Chinese cuisine featured in Chicago.

And yes, I think you'd really like Isla Pilipina. Give it a try sometime if you're in the neighborhood. It gets really crowded now because of all the media attention from the Hungry Hound Steve Dolinsky, Chicago's Best, and just about every other media outlet in Chicago. But the couple that runs the place are really nice, and they very much care about your total Filipino dining experience. Good stuff.

It really is great to finally see Filipino cuisine featured on Serious Eats. I don't really like this "new" Serious Eats brand. The old Serious Eats was much better when it was focused on particular cities.

Good Eating As Always,

cpd007

Coconut, Vinegar, and a Whole Lotta Pork: An Introduction to Filipino Cuisine

@mikelipino: Mike, I haven't had the opportunity to try Hong Ning yet because I'm not out in Glendale Heights that often, but I'm ALWAYS up for trying all things Filipino. Thank you for the recommendation. I love seeing our home cuisine featured on Serious Eats.

Coconut, Vinegar, and a Whole Lotta Pork: An Introduction to Filipino Cuisine

Excellent article, and it's about time Serious Eats covered traditional Filipino cuisine. Here in Chicago, we have Isla Pilipina, among a few other places, but Isla Pilipina is the best in my humble opinion. Chicken Adobo, garlic rice, and pancit were staples in my house growing up, and Isla Pilipina's versions are the closest to my mother's masterpieces. Garlic rice = breakfast in my house back in the day. Chicken Adobo and pancit were for dinner, along with my mother's Filipino pork chops. And fresh rolled lumpia with pork by my lola were for family celebrations. Delicious!

Isla's milkfish is excellent, too. I encourage everyone in the Chicago area to try Isla Pilipina sooner rather than later. Who wouldn't enjoy a nice big plate of lumpia shanghai right about now?!?!? And some leche flan, puto, or halo halo for dessert.

Cheers,

cpd007


Fennel and Cinnamon-Rubbed Roast Chicken and Lemons With Potato Wedges

This recipe looks really, really good. I know it's different, but it kind of reminds me of the Italian lemon chicken at Tufano's Vernon Park Tap here in Chicago. Awesome.

How I Got My Degree From Hot Dog University

@JohnCarruthers: Great article on one of my favorite places in Chicago- the Vienna Beef Factory. Next to Gene and Jude's in River Grove, and Jimmy's at Grand and Pulaski, the Vienna Beef Factory makes the best Chicago style hot dog in the city. It's great bringing the kids to the café in the summer, too. I'd love to have that above pictured Vienna Beef glowing neon sign hanging above the bar in my basement.

There are few things in life better than a Chicago style Vienna beef, all natural casing hot dog- whether it's "dragged through the garden" a la the Vienna Beef Factory Café, or "minimalist style" a la Gene and Jude's and Jimmy's. It's all good to me.

Taste Test: The Best Fast Food Chicken Nuggets

I still like McDonald's Chicken McNuggets with tangy BBQ sauce. I find myself eating my kids' leftovers. I can't help it- I'm still a sucker for Mickey D's.

The Best Deep Dish Pizza in Chicago

@monitorhead: If you can pull it off with actual cornmeal, the more power to you. All I meant was that the use of actual cornmeal here in Chicago is truly a myth. It really is all about corn oil, rather than cornmeal, and people that have been previously employed (and still employed) by the traditional deep dish powerhouses very much know this to be true.

On another note, I'm envious of you- one of my all time favorite thin crust pizzas is in Minnesota. I wish I were having it right now. I don't get to the Land of 10,000 Lakes nearly enough. I love your state.

Cheers,

cpd007

The Best Deep Dish Pizza in Chicago

@monitorhead: There is no debate. The original Gino's East, Pizzeria Uno/Due, Lou Malnati's, Pizano's, Louisa's, and Burt's Place all have one thing in common- None of them use corn meal in any of their recipes. If one franchise Gino's East does (and I think I know the specific Gino's East franchise restaurant you're talking about), then they have wandered way off the path of the original recipe, and that particular Gino's East restaurant gets a lot of complaints about their pizza. And for good reason- actual corn meal ruins the crust. Similarly, everybody who's actually worked in any of these above mentioned kitchens knows that corn meal is not used.

Please don't take this as being contrary, but the corn meal myth needs to be put to rest. And the only people that can adequately put it to rest are people who have actually worked in these kitchens or personally know family members who have worked in these kitchens. Sadly, the person who most famously put the corn meal myth in the public eye is someone I admired very much as a food writer (RIP), but he was flat out wrong about this.

And the Gino's on Rush was not related to Gino's East.

Hot Dog Taste Test: Chicago's Vienna Beef vs. New York's Sabrett

The classic Chicago style minimalist dog from Gene and Jude's- onions, relish, mustard, and sport peppers, with some homemade fresh cut fries on top. This is Vienna Beef at its' finest. Nothing compares.

The Best Deep Dish Pizza in Chicago

@FredipusRex: Right on, brother. If you ever want to talk pizza, hit me up on LTHforum (I'm "deepdish" over there). We can always do Bartoli's, buddy.

The Best Deep Dish Pizza in Chicago

I can't believe Slice was a perpetual loser. Slice was by far the best of the Serious Eats websites. I always thought it had a very strong pizza following, especially on the East Coast. There weren't many Chicagaons on it for obvious reasons, but I always enjoyed Slice for being able to explore pizza from other parts of America. As a Chicagoan, I already know what I have here, and what I grew up on, so Slice was always an interesting foray into pizza from everywhere else.

It will definitely be missed.

The Best Deep Dish Pizza in Chicago

@illone: Considering the fact that I've been eating here in Chicago my entire life, I think it's fair to say that I'm a pretty accurate barometer of what Chicagoans have been eating in terms of pizza for the last 60 to 70 years. I don't know the reasoning why people from other parts of America like deep dish pizza, but many people do. It's not just Chicagoans. And if I had to guess why people from other parts of America like deep dish pizza, I'd guess that they like it for the same reasons us Chicagoans like it- it tastes good.

As for me, it really is just the taste and the taste alone. And I'm pretty confidant if you were to actually walk into any given Lou Malnati's and ask a family of 4 why they like Lou Malnati's deep dish pizza, they would most certainly tell you they like how it tastes. And their kids like how it tastes. And their parents before them (i.e. the grandparents) liked how it tasted and still like how it tastes. Nobody would tell you they like it because it's "Chicago style pizza." People generally like certain foods because it just tastes good. Many times, things are just that simple.

Similarly, I can personally guarantee you that if you were to ask anybody in my personal or professional life what their motivation is for eating Lou Malnati's, Burt's Place, or Louisa's, they would look at you kind of strange and then they'd just tell you they like how it tastes. In addition, they'd tell you very specific reasons why certain deep dish recipes at the various restaurants taste better than the other places. They would give you their favorites, and their favorites are based on the fact that whichever place happens to be their favorite tastes better than the other places.

BOTTOM LINE: There's a lot of people here in Chicago and the surrounding suburbs eating deep dish pizza because it tastes good. Malnati's has 37 locations and their sit down locations are packed to the gills on any given night with local Chicagoans and suburbanites, not to mention their very successful carry out business. Giordano's also has many locations, along with Gino's East. And then you have the mom and pops like Louisa's and Burt's Place. In the end, that's a lot of people eating deep dish pizza. And every single person who eats it likes how it tastes. There may be other reasons people eat deep dish pizza, but the main reason will always be the taste, and everybody has their favorites based on taste.

It's obvious you don't like how it tastes, and that's fine. You've got D'Agostino's to fall back on, and a boatload of other types of pizza here in Chicago to enjoy at a moments notice. Maybe I'll see you at the opening of Paulie Gee's Chicago, so we can enjoy a great East Coast style pizza together. Sometimes (actually all the time for me), it's just fun eating pizza with other people who really love pizza in all its' various forms.

The Best Deep Dish Pizza in Chicago

@mfrapp: The next time you're near Midway Airport, check out Villa Nova in nearby Stickney, IL. It was reviewed here on Serious Eats a couple years ago, and they just recently won Best Thin Crust Pizza in Chicagoland on CBS2 Chicago News. It's my personal favorite when it comes to thin crust pizza with homemade Italian sausage. Speaking of homemade Italian sausage, Villa Nova's homemade sausage is as good as it gets. It's a hole in the wall with a small dining area and a jukebox, but it's an institution in these parts with a very interesting "Chicago" history that we all knew about growing up. Regardless, it's the best thin crust pizza I've ever had, and the pictures from the Serious Eats review are EXACTLY what a thin crust pizza with homemade sausage should look like here in the Midwest. I think you'll like it- give it a shot. A simple cheese and sausage will do.

Interestingly enough, Serious Eats Chicago is one of two places I go to when I want to find people who dislike deep dish pizza. As much as many of these snotty food writers look down on deep dish pizza (and the very people who eat it), it's immensely popular here, especially Lou Malnati's. They have at least 37 locations, and those locations are packed to the gills on any given night with families, friends, and just about every other local Chicagoan and suburbanite you can think of. Their popularity cannot be understated. That's a lot of people eating deep dish pizza in sit down settings, not to mention their very successful carry out business. And then you also have places like stuffed pizza giant Giordano's, with their multiple locations. And mom and pop places like my personal favorite, Louisa's, and Burt's Place in Morton Grove. BOTTOM LINE: Many Chicagoans love deep dish pizza. Do some Chicagoans hate it? Yes, and the second place I go to witness people who dislike it is right in my own city- the South Side of Chicago.

There are more than a few South Siders who consider deep dish pizza "North Side pizza," or "tourist pizza." They are wrong, because more than a few South Siders like deep dish pizza, too, but some of my South Side co-workers are stubborn and only consider true Chicago pizza as thin crust, cut into squares, with homemade Italian sausage as pizza. South Side thin crust institutions like Vito and Nick's, Villa Nova in Stickney, Aurelio's in Homewood, Pizza Castle, Barraco's on 95th, Fox's at 100th and Western, and Chesdan's are their definitions of "Chicago pizza" and they will not have it any other way. But they are wrong because most of Lou Malnati's locations are in the suburbs far away from downtown tourist Chicago, and those locations are packed on a nightly basis with local Chicagoans and suburbanites who grew up eating deep pizza. And with that many locations, in addition to their many carry out stores, there are more people eating deep dish pizza than they could possibly imagine.

As for me- I like it all.

Like I said, give Villa Nova in Stickney a shot, and take a look at the pictures of their pizza from the Serious Eats review a couple of years ago. That's exactly how a Chicago style thin crust pizza with homemade Italian sausage should look.

Hope This Helps,

cpd007

The Best Deep Dish Pizza in Chicago

@illone: Actually, entire generations of Chicagoans really do love deep dish pizza. It's not just the ideal. The vast majority of us love deep dish pizza because we think it tastes good. It's really that simple. It has NOTHING to do with nostalgia, either. Our native thin crust, cut into squares, with homemade Italian sausage is more popular because it's served in more restaurants, and it's much cheaper to produce. Very few places actually have the know how to do deep dish pizza right. But the very few places that do are excellent in every way, shape, and form. It may not be your thing, but many of us love it for exactly what it is.

The Best Deep Dish Pizza in Chicago

FredipusRex is 100% correct- there is no corn meal in deep dish pizza crusts. Instead, very heavy doses of corn oil produce that distinct "corn flavor." For whatever reason, whenever I'm at the original Pizzeria Uno or Uno's second location, Pizzeria Due, the corn flavor is very strong and very obvious. You can actually smell the corn flavor as soon as the server drops the pizza onto your plate. This is not the case at places like Lou Malnati's, Louisa's, or Pizano's because those places all use butter, rather than corn oil.

The Best Deep Dish Pizza in Chicago

@FredipusRex: My man- you've got to try Bartoli's. I had you specifically in mind when I posted about Bartoli's in the community talk section a few months ago. As the Gino's East guy that I know you are, I think you'd like the place. I could be wrong, but give it a try.

The Best Deep Dish Pizza in Chicago

@derricktung: I'm waiting, Derrick- I'm waiting! The anticipation is killing me. Just let me know, and I'll start spreading the word about Paulie Gee's Chicago. I specifically mentioned Paulie Gee's Chicago in my above post. I'm all ready, buddy!

The Best Deep Dish Pizza in Chicago

Great article, Nick. And thank you for admitting your animosity toward deep dish pizza right up front. We may disagree about pizza and subs, but I always appreciate your honesty. Actually, I just appreciate the fact that your open minded enough to try different things. Many of these other Chicago food writers do not share your open minded sentiment. More on that later in this commentary. Growing up here, if I had to pick a top 2, it would be:
1) Louisa's; and
2) Lou Malnati's.

That said, you can NEVER go wrong with Burt's Place or Pizano's. Burt's Place, along with Louisa's, both feature incredible garlic sausage recipes, something Pequod's got very far away from when Burt sold the place to its' current owner. However, Louisa's has been my personal favorite for many, many years, but if this article were put to the test of the general Chicago and Chicagoland public, Lou Malnati's would win hands down, and the margin would not even be close. For Pete's sake, I think Lou Malnati's even had the most votes on the Serious Eats Chicago poll from a couple months ago, and that's quite the accomplishment considering the fact that Lou Malnati's isn't that popular here on Serious Eats Chicago. Yet, they still had the most votes. The one thing Lou Malnati's offers that none of the other places offer is their signature creamy lemon garlic dressing. Lou Malnati regulars (i.e. people that have been eating Lou's for decades) will often have a bowl of their creamy lemon garlic in the middle of the table to dip the pizza into. It's decadent, and for whatever reason, it goes really well with Lou's tomato sauce and garlic sausage recipe.

But for me, you can never go wrong with a place that grows its' own Italian herbs and spices behind the restaurant, and that honor goes to Louisa's. In my humble opinion, it's the best, but Lou Malnati's is really hard to beat, and it's consumed by literally every single person I know in both my personal life and my professional life. Office parties? Lou Malnati's. Going away parties? Lou Malnati's. Anniversary parties? Lou Malnati's. Pizza after our bowling league? Lou Malnati's. Friends and relatives first stop for pizza when coming home to Chicago? Lou Malnati's. They are the elephant in the room that every food writer always wants to ignore, but that task will prove impossible. They are permanently ingrained in Chicago culture, and with 37 some odd locations (and NONE of them franchised), more people are eating Lou Malnati's than ever before. And no food writers will ever be able to deny this or redefine the Chicago pizza scene here in Chicago.

What many of these food writers don't understand is that we already had great pizza here in Chicago long before these food writers ever showed up on scene to "educate" us provincial rubes here in Chicago about what they consider "true" pizza. And that goes for both our deep dish and our native thin crust pizza, cut into squares, with homemade Italian sausage. Our deep dish places like Lou Malnati's, Louisa's, Pizzeria Due, Pizano's and our thin crust places like Villa Nova in Stickney, Q's in Hillside, Bill's in Mundelein, Armand's, Vito and Nick's, Pat's on Lincoln Ave., and Pizano's will always be the real game here in town, long after all the trendy, hipster, artisanal pizza places are long gone. These are the Chicago classics, and they will always stand the test of time, when all the other places go bye-bye.

As for me, I'm eagerly awaiting the grand opening of Paulie Gee's Chicago. As I've said before, I love the diversity of pizza in Chicago. The Chicago classics will always be my favorite, but it's great having awesome East Coast options here in Chicago. This city is big enough for it all, and we are all lucky to have such diverse options. I could never be a food snob because I truly like it all. I've had great pizza all over this country, especially out East. They should all be celebrated for their various virtues.

But many of these food writers do not share the same sentiment. Many of them are food snobs, and snobs in general. Every time they put down deep dish pizza their arrogance, elitism, and condescension are on full display. Many of them go around touting tolerance, but in reality they are only tolerant to their own ideas about food, or even life in general. They are not tolerant what-so-ever when to comes to anybody who disagrees with them. It's like they want to pick and choose what they are tolerant of. That's not tolerance. They are hypocrites of the highest order. And it may not be popular here, but I will call them out on their arrogance, elitism, hypocrisy, and condescension every time.

Like I said, these food writers will never be able to redefine the Chicago pizza scene to conform to what they consider true pizza because we already had great pizza here long before they ever showed up in town to tell us what constitutes "great pizza." They will lose this battle no matter how hard they try. Our pizza culture is wayyyyyyyyyyyyy to ingrained and deep rooted, whether it's thin crust or deep dish.

But what we do have here in Chicago are a lot of open minded people like myself who truly love pizza in all of its' various regional forms. Sometimes, it's just great to love whatever food is in front of you, no matter where it came from.

Let the haters tee off on me, but I know I'm right, and growing up here, I think I'm a pretty fairly accurate barometer of what we've been eating here in terms of pizza for the last 60 or 70 years.

Good Eating As Always,

cpd007

How to Make Chicago-Style Italian Beef at Home

@jessyjess04: I'm with you on Portillo's chopped salad- it's been the star of many catered family party's over the years, along with Portillo's Italian beef and hot dogs. You can NEVER go wrong with Portillo's. Good stuff.

How to Make Chicago-Style Italian Beef at Home

@derricktung: Derrick, I'm hoping for a 3.5 hour wait for your grand opening of Paulie Gee's Chicago because if people are willing to wait that long to try your pizza, then things will be going exceptionally well for the Paulie Gee's Chicago team. It's been a long time since I've been this excited for a new restaurant in the city.

Good Eating As Always,

cpd007

How to Make Chicago-Style Italian Beef at Home

On another note, I don't know if any of you saw this in the news recently, but Portillo's is looking to sell and go national. They may not be Johnnie's Beef or Gene and Jude's, but I've ALWAYS loved Portillo's for both their Italian beef and their Chicago style hot dogs. Their chocolate cake, too. I've never had a bad meal at Portillo's, and the Portillo family has clearly made their mark here in Chicago over their many extremely successful years in business. If they do sell, hopefully the new ownership group will not change their Italian beef and Vienna Beef hot dog recipes. Vienna Beef actually makes a hot dog only for Portillo's.

Riverside Family Restaurant

I know it's been covered here in a past Serious Eats Chicago review, but I can't emphasize enough the sheer goodness of a good old fashioned Czech/Bohemian dinner at the Riverside Family Restaurant in suburban Riverside, IL. After all these years, it's still cash only, and if you're near Brookfield Zoo with the family, then stop on in for some classic old world European dining.

Bartoli's Pizzeria In Roscoe Village = Gino's East Circa 1983

For fans of Gino's East, the grandson of Gino's East late co-founder, Fred Bartoli, opened up Bartoli's Pizzeria a few months ago at 1955 W. Addison (Addison and Damen), and the deep dish pizza he is serving today is reminiscent of Gino's East circa early 1980's before the franchising and various corporate owners throughout the years. If you remember the glory days of Gino's East back in those days, then you will probably like this pizza (Yes, FredipusRex, I'm looking right at you). This is NOT the same recipe that Gino's East is using today. This version reminds me of the original Gino's East deep dish pizza based on the late Fred Bartoli's original version, which came from Fred's former head chef, Alice Mae Redmond (Redmond was hired away from Uno's). Fred's grandson has added his own personal touches, and his thin crust with sausage is pretty good, too. Enjoy!

New Lou Malnati's Locations

For all you Lou Malnati's fans in Chicago, the suburbs, and everywhere else in America, there will be three (3) new Lou Malnati's in 2014 to enjoy a deep dish pizza with sausage and buttercrust:

1) Suburban Oak Park- 1038 Lake Street, opening in January 2014;

2) Chicago's West Loop- 1235 W. Randolph, opening in summer 2014; and

3) Chicago's Lincoln Square- 4344 N. Lincoln Ave., opening Fall 2014.

New Pizano's In Lincoln Park

For all you Pizano's fans in Chicago, Rudy Malnati, Jr. just opened a new Pizano's Express in Lincoln Park at 2429 N. Lincoln Ave. It's carry out/delivery only until 5:00 AM, seven days a week.

Fish and Chips In Chicago

Has any one ever tried Duke of Perth at 2913 N. Clark St., www.dukeofperth.com for a good old fashioned beer battered all you can eat fish fry every Wednesday and Friday ? This Lincoln Park Scottish pub has always been my favorite for a beer battered fish fry, not to mention the 75 kinds of Scotch available. Any thoughts ?

Burt's Place On T.V. In December/January

After a very nice conversation with Sharon Katz of Burt's Place, Sharon related that Burt's Place will be featured on the Channel 11 show "Check Please" sometime in December, possibly January ( more likely December ). I usually eat in at Burt's, but this time I carried out because of a family party at my place. We also carried out the exact same order from Pizano's. It was a truly great night of deep dish/pan pizza with friends and family.

Dinner Tonight: Chicken Vesuvio

Though it's not an authentic Italian dish, Chicken Vesuvio tastes like it could be. In actuality, it's a specialty of the Italian-American restaurants in my home town of Chicago, invented sometime in the 1930s and still going strong as a favorite around town. It's a rich, stewed dish with key elements of creamy potatoes, white wine, and plenty of garlic—as well as the final sprinkle of peas to give it color and freshness. More