dbird’s Profile
Recent Comments
Dinner Tonight: Roast Beef Hash
I miss Pacific Dining Car-- their roast beef hash is the best. Would love to see that recipe.
Is there a real difference between Soul Food & Southern Food
my white family is definitely southern but my mother (who actually became acquainted with Ms. Dupree later in her life) never tasted collards until she was an adult. Our family recipes include imp cake and baked alaska and persimmon pudding (weird that they're all desserts). My mother told me that growing up in the 40s & 50s, they never had cornbread or collards or fried chicken or any of the kinds of things that are generally associated with southern food today. (They did eat biscuits). Years ago I thought it was just a myth that southerners ate cornbread and collards and that sort of thing, then I thought maybe it was actually a race thing, then I got to know white southerners who ate cornbread and decided it was a class thing. Now I think it's just way more complicated than any of that but certainly has to do with the historical interactions of class and race in a predominantly rural south, and how these have evolved and interacted with food culture (eg with rural black women coming to work for increasingly urban white families with increasing exposure to national and international trends and standards in part through-- and I think this is really to the point-- country clubs and junior leagues and the networks of information and aspiration their cookbooks supported and represented). Sorry to wander off on a tangent.
NYC Lower East Side recommendations, please!
what about Back Forty? They have large trestle tables for groups.
See more comments by dbird ยป
Recent Posts
dbird hasn't written a post yet.
Recent Favorites
dbird hasn't favorited a post yet.
Recent Polls
dbird hasn't answered any polls yet.
Recent Quizzes
dbird hasn't taken any quizzes yet.
Recent Comments | Response to Comments
Bruni "review" of Charles in today's NYT
Surely this review was ghost written by 'Countess Louise J. Esterhazy'. And just as flabby.
Dinner Tonight: Roast Beef Hash
I miss Pacific Dining Car-- their roast beef hash is the best. Would love to see that recipe.
Is there a real difference between Soul Food & Southern Food
my white family is definitely southern but my mother (who actually became acquainted with Ms. Dupree later in her life) never tasted collards until she was an adult. Our family recipes include imp cake and baked alaska and persimmon pudding (weird that they're all desserts). My mother told me that growing up in the 40s & 50s, they never had cornbread or collards or fried chicken or any of the kinds of things that are generally associated with southern food today. (They did eat biscuits). Years ago I thought it was just a myth that southerners ate cornbread and collards and that sort of thing, then I thought maybe it was actually a race thing, then I got to know white southerners who ate cornbread and decided it was a class thing. Now I think it's just way more complicated than any of that but certainly has to do with the historical interactions of class and race in a predominantly rural south, and how these have evolved and interacted with food culture (eg with rural black women coming to work for increasingly urban white families with increasing exposure to national and international trends and standards in part through-- and I think this is really to the point-- country clubs and junior leagues and the networks of information and aspiration their cookbooks supported and represented). Sorry to wander off on a tangent.
NYC Lower East Side recommendations, please!
what about Back Forty? They have large trestle tables for groups.
Hezbollah Tofu
I guess I don't agree that it's ridiculous for people to demand accountability for the casual employment of stereotypes of various ethnic, national or political groups. I'm not humourless and I despise the empty posturing of the politically correct (not to mention their lack of style). But I'd love to know what the reaction would be to 'zionisttofu.blogspot.com' or a Bourdain quotation reading:
"Vegetarians, and their Zionist-like splinter
faction, the vegans, are a persistent irritant to any
chef worth a damn. To me, life without veal stock,
pork fat, sausage, organ meat, demi-glace, or even
stinky cheese is a life not worth living. Vegetarians
are the enemy of everything good and decent in the
human spirit, and an affront to all I stand for, the
pure enjoyment of food."
Hezbollah Tofu
Sorry, in what respect exactly are Hezbollah supposed to be like vegans? Are they also supposed to be a 'splinter faction'? of what, again, exactly? This is sloppy at best, exploitative at worst. Yes we know Bourdain was in Beirut when Israel attacked in 2006. Too bad he didn't return with any better understanding of the food or the politics or of their relationship. He has a platform from which he might draw attention to the devastation Israeli cluster bombs have wreaked on the southern agrarian economy and efforts of ngos such as Land & People to promote local food traditions to help otherwise destituted people benefit from their few remaining resources. For example. And yes, like ccbweb I haven't actually gone to the site. Some sick (racist, sexist, fascist whatever) puns are just not worth investigating.
New York Magazine's Best-Of-New-York Food List May Not Be The Best
I haven't read it all yet but I don't think I could endorse El Quinto Pino for best tapas, if that's what it says. Of course I'm mainly going by the uni bocadillo which may be great if you're looking for a sandwich but not if you're after uni. I have yet to find a dish that does uni better than it does by itself.
San Francisco sushi restaurant?
weirdly enough, you can (or could) get very good traditional sushi at the small sushi bar at Anzu in the Nikko Hotel. I used to eat there occasionally when I would travel to SF from LA and that's saying a lot.
Bruni Loves Le Cirque (Sort of)
Did you or anyone notice that when the review was first posted, it displayed 2 stars?
New York Food Anywhere
This LES Jewish-Italian vision of NY authenticity is really too banal and um ethnocentric. Can somebody please write a musical and throw the carcass to the tourists? I've lived in NY on and off for many years and I can tell you that I've never suffered for want of fried wontons or chicken parmesan, not in New Haven and not in LA. I am thinking about a possible move even now, and it's Evans Farmhouse milk, Fishkill Farms eggs, local oysters at the GCOB, lebneh and freekeh from Kalustyan's, the odd reservation number at Sushi Yasuda and delivery from Moore Brothers that I worry about. These are among the products I associate with New York food (obviously with at least as broad and international a perspective as the op's).
I recognize that there are more takes on NY food than there are mouths and menus but this is egregious synecdoche.
Seriously Delicious Holiday Giveaway: D'Artagnan Heritage Smoked Ham
cubano, but holiday ham belongs on beaten biscuits
What Should Replace Roast Turkey as the National Thanksgiving Dish?
what's with the compulsion to observe a holiday by doing the same thing as everyone else, or at least, as you imagine everyone else doing? Forget a national thanksgiving dish. Holidays should give us all license to eat what we like best. Some people have strange palates but as far as I am concerned: turkey is nasty. (So, for that matter, are pies. And families).
When Is Food Too Expensive? What's Your Bottom Line?
L'Orangerie. And it's too expensive if it is more than you'd budgeted or less than you'd expected. Outrageous if both.
Dinner Tonight: Baba Ghanoush
I can't stomach Good Food. On the other hand Evan Kleiman's exaggerated delivery (barely suppressed delight) and even worse, Laura Avery's screech, soften the tender disappointment of Union Square vs Hollywood or Santa Monica.
'Consumer Reports' Doesn't Know Hot Dogs
why concede appliances and cars? I don't know who comprises their crack investigative team but their recommendations consistently lead to worse than random outcomes.
But I don't know hot dogs.
Is there a real difference between Soul Food & Southern Food
My understanding of soul food is that it is a subset of Southern cooking that grew out of the dishes developed by the slaves to make do with the "unwanted" foods and cuts of meat that were left for them (my mother is of Norwegian and African-American descent, and this is what she always told me). Thus, soul food includes things like black-eyed peas, ham hocks and collard or dandelion greens, chittlins/chitterlings, and yams or sweet potatoes (especially when they're used as sweeteners, as in pie). Given that the provenance of slavery was the American South, these dishes have since become incorporated into the canon of Southern food and eaten by all kinds of people (including my very mixed family). And that is, I think, a beautiful thing.
Is there a real difference between Soul Food & Southern Food
Soul = Southern pretty much. Most white people in the pre-Civil War South did NOT have slaves cooking for them. After the war, most folks in the South were poor. Most regional food seems (to me, anyway) the food the poorest folks - black OR white - prepared from what was readily available.
Bruni "review" of Charles in today's NYT
count me in as a staunch bruni fan. his writing is always highly entertaining, and it's simply not true that he doesn't know about food.
Bruni "review" of Charles in today's NYT
All Frank did was give the place more publicity:
Bruni "review" of Charles in today's NYT
The only real issue I noticed was that there was no review...a few passing comments on a small selection of dishes, and price complaints regarding the wine. I don't mind when a writer wants to experiment or be a little creative, but this piece totally missed the point of the column.
Bruni "review" of Charles in today's NYT
Am I the only one who believes that food reviewing is extremely difficult? When I consider how large and important food is in our lives, I'm impressed with how few adjectives there are to describe food. It's not an easy job.
I think that Bruni does an outstanding job. Almost as good as Melissa Clark, who is unmatched when it comes to food writing.
Give Frank a break. Yes, today was off note for me. But his columns and his blog are articulate, entertaining and useful more than 99.9% of the time.
Bruni "review" of Charles in today's NYT
It gave me a giggle.
Bruni "review" of Charles in today's NYT
Here is Frank's bio:
http://www.nytimes.com/ref/dining/bruni-bio.html
It's quite clear that he never should have been appointed Food Critic (that he was a movie critic once before is a dead giveaway). And, yes, I got all the references, and it's still a poor piece, as is most of his stuff.
Ruth Reichl was completely immersed in the food industry for at least 10 - 15 years before becoming the LA Times and then the NY Times Food Critic. She knows, loves and appreciates the industry; she is one of them.
After his non-food journalism career, it seems that Frank wanted a cushy job and an ego boost, and had an inside connection. Why would the NYT, with its incredible reputation, give their readers this guy???
Also, how fiscally responsible is it for the NYT to pay for dinner for 2 - 8 people 6-7 nights a week, mostly at hugely expensive restaurants? Fire him, and save that money for real reporting (or at least real food reporting!).
Bruni "review" of Charles in today's NYT
I happened to find the review quite entertaining and rather accurate. I happen to work in the nightlife and restaurant industry and know numerous people who have been to the restaurant and everyone says the same thing: 'if all you want is to be cool and say you have been there then go, if you like good food stay away'. All of these scenester restaurants have their place and people need to understand that when these people are reviewing they are from the school that looks for food first. This is not a food first venue and never will be. Maybe that's the reason they dont take down the paper and tape, then everyone will know they are being hoodwinked. It's not a trendy club or speakeasy its a restaurant and if you cant even call or see inside then the food is probably just as mysterious as the facade.
Dinner Tonight: Baba Ghanoush
You gotta check out: You look nice today. It's not food related, but it will be a comic relief to your NPR drag-on-athons.
Is there a real difference between Soul Food & Southern Food
yes, fried chicken(La Jolla had fried chicken for lunch for about two months before we decided it was just too embarassing).
What could possibly be embarassing about fried chicken?
Is there a real difference between Soul Food & Southern Food
yes and no.
"soul food" is a blanket term--to different people it means different things.
a lot of the time, it refers to a sort of "home cooked" style found in a lot of Southern USA regional dishes.
another way of saying it might be to say that a lot of southern food is comfort food, but they are not the same thing at all.
It's also interesting to note that a wide variety of "Southern" food styles exist outside of the cliche "fried chicken and greens" type dishes a lot of people associate with the South. I've had the honor to work at both La Jolla and Garrett's, two Montgomery, Ala. restaurants specializing in "new" southern food--gourmet interpretations of all kinds of stuff, from fish to pasta to...yes, fried chicken(La Jolla had fried chicken for lunch for about two months before we decided it was just too embarassing).
Is there a real difference between Soul Food & Southern Food
Wookie -Thanks for the info. I lived in Alexandria area for years. Worked in hospitals in Hampton, Chesapeake and Va Beach areas. I asked your whereabouts because I like your comments on these talks. Enjoy the food up Nawth. yaya
Is there a real difference between Soul Food & Southern Food
@1stmakearoux, the only place I can think of is Cafe Habana, which is the only Cuban restaurant close to the river...their tres leches is awesome as well.
Is there a real difference between Soul Food & Southern Food
What is this chicken and waffles I keep hearing about. I'm intrigued.
It was interesting reading everyones remarks on this question-as I have wondered this myself.
Is there a real difference between Soul Food & Southern Food
@bitter I was in Philly last summer and went to a fabulous Cuban restaurant down by the river. Of course I can't recall the name, but it was truly like walking into a restaurant in Havana! Beautiful decor, great Cuban food (I had ropa vieja), reasonable prices, and attentive servers and manager.
My gf makes great picadillo when I can talk her into it!
Is there a real difference between Soul Food & Southern Food
Best chicken and waffles - EVER - Roscoe's House of Chicken and Waffles, Hollywood CA - and I know where of I speak because I've had Sylvia's too!!
Is there a real difference between Soul Food & Southern Food
I also happen to be part Cuban too, 1stmakearoux and make a mean picadillo!!!
Right now, I'm craving some shrimp and grits. My bad back has me out from work today, but I can stand at the stove for a l'il bit. I've got some shrimp and andouille (sp?) in the fridge. So tempting.
One thing I miss is fatback. My maternal grands were from Saluda, South Carolina and they used to fry fatback on the weekends. My mom was their only girl, and they were devoted to her. We were their favorites. As soon as Mom parked the car, I'd run up the steps, into the house, kiss them, and then run into the kitchen to eat a piece of crispy, salty fatback. Fatback went into EVERYTHING -- oil for frying chicken, greens - even ice cream. LOL, just kidding.
Right now I reside in Center City Philly - pretty much lily-white, which I hardly have a problem with, except I always have to catch the bus and go to North Philly or West Philly to get the things I miss. I don't have a car, which makes getting the food I crave something of a challenge.
Is there a real difference between Soul Food & Southern Food
I wasn't born in the South, but I got here as quick as I could. Personally, I think that Southern and Soul are virtually indistinguishable. I absolutely love them both! And you can throw Cajun, Creole, and Cuban into that mix. Now I'm REALLY hungry!
Is there a real difference between Soul Food & Southern Food
It's a bit like Cajun and Creole. Both are very similar but they are, indeed, different. Soul food is more likely to involve pork in the cooking process - be it through the use of bacon, ham hocks, or chitterlings.
Southern food is light as air biscuits, grillades and grits, squash blossoms, bread pudding, catfish with pecan butter, Hummingbird cake, ambrosia, fresh veggies straight from the garden (Francis I - the sterling pattern- even makes a tomato server), freshly made lemonade and ice tea, juleps, chess pie... those are all southern foods. Just my humble, Mississippi and Alabama raised opinion. :-)
Is there a real difference between Soul Food & Southern Food
i think the distinction totally hinges on race. southern food is regional cuisine, distinguished by ingredients, cooking method (someone above mentioned casseroles for example) and geography. soul food - a term that didn't even emerge until the 1960s - is a national cuisine that is also connected to ingredients, but is very much connected to the idea and reality of blackness. i mean, the term "soul" is totally about essence and innateness, is it not? a couple of you mentioned how chicken and waffles sprung up in the venues of late night jazz culture. i would say soul food is just as connected to blues venues and gospel music. in fact, soul is almost analogous to rhythm in some ways. they are both terms that evoke the innate color and life of a people. to me, soul is inseparable from race.
Is there a real difference between Soul Food & Southern Food
@yayajac--I grew up in Virginia (Hampton, Harrisonburg, and Richmond). Recently became a resident of the Hoosier state. I am a Korean American.
Hezbollah Tofu
If I ever form a band, I'm going to call it Hezbollah Tofu. :)
Hezbollah Tofu
Now you can vote: Anthony Bourdain or Hezbollah Tofu
http://www.endlesssimmer.com/2008/04/08/who-cooked-it-better-tony-bourdain-vs-hezbollah-tofu/
NYC Lower East Side recommendations, please!
Caracas only holds 15 people in total, and that's including the cook, the hostess and the toilet!
Recent Posts
dbird hasn't written a post yet.
Recent Favorites
dbird hasn't favorited a post yet.
Polls
dbird hasn't answered any polls yet.
Quizzes
dbird hasn't taken any quizzes yet.

Surely this review was ghost written by 'Countess Louise J. Esterhazy'. And just as flabby.