Serious Eats - seriouseats.com

Surely this review was ghost written by 'Countess Louise J. Esterhazy'. And just as flabby.

my white family is definitely southern but my mother (who actually became acquainted with Ms. Dupree later in her life) never tasted collards until she was an adult. Our family recipes include imp cake and baked alaska and persimmon pudding (weird that they're all desserts). My mother told me that growing up in the 40s & 50s, they never had cornbread or collards or fried chicken or any of the kinds of things that are generally associated with southern food today. (They did eat biscuits). Years ago I thought it was just a myth that southerners ate cornbread and collards and that sort of thing, then I thought maybe it was actually a race thing, then I got to know white southerners who ate cornbread and decided it was a class thing. Now I think it's just way more complicated than any of that but certainly has to do with the historical interactions of class and race in a predominantly rural south, and how these have evolved and interacted with food culture (eg with rural black women coming to work for increasingly urban white families with increasing exposure to national and international trends and standards in part through-- and I think this is really to the point-- country clubs and junior leagues and the networks of information and aspiration their cookbooks supported and represented). Sorry to wander off on a tangent.

I guess I don't agree that it's ridiculous for people to demand accountability for the casual employment of stereotypes of various ethnic, national or political groups. I'm not humourless and I despise the empty posturing of the politically correct (not to mention their lack of style). But I'd love to know what the reaction would be to 'zionisttofu.blogspot.com' or a Bourdain quotation reading:

"Vegetarians, and their Zionist-like splinter
faction, the vegans, are a persistent irritant to any
chef worth a damn. To me, life without veal stock,
pork fat, sausage, organ meat, demi-glace, or even
stinky cheese is a life not worth living. Vegetarians
are the enemy of everything good and decent in the
human spirit, and an affront to all I stand for, the
pure enjoyment of food."

I haven't read it all yet but I don't think I could endorse El Quinto Pino for best tapas, if that's what it says. Of course I'm mainly going by the uni bocadillo which may be great if you're looking for a sandwich but not if you're after uni. I have yet to find a dish that does uni better than it does by itself.

Did you or anyone notice that when the review was first posted, it displayed 2 stars?

cubano, but holiday ham belongs on beaten biscuits

L'Orangerie. And it's too expensive if it is more than you'd budgeted or less than you'd expected. Outrageous if both.

why concede appliances and cars? I don't know who comprises their crack investigative team but their recommendations consistently lead to worse than random outcomes.

But I don't know hot dogs.