No Chang in Chicago, No Problem: Pho Xua's Fried Duck Noodle Soup
I can remain silent no longer. David Chang, in my opinion (as someone who grew up eating a wide variety of noodle soups, including ramen), is not a noodle god or anywhere near it. He's a pork god, if anything, but his noodles are consistently soft and overcooked (criminal!) and his broth overly salty, peppery, greasy and heavy. Heavy broths, if done well, are excellent, but I was unable to finish a third of Chang's ramen broth. I've yet to see anyone who is a ramen-fancier or who has had an average bowl of ramen in Japan list Momofuku as a good place to get ramen in NYC. Chang doesn't make ramen, he makes a generic noodle soup, and unfortunately a noodle soup that isn't even that good. Why, why make the noodles so mushy David Chang?!
However I will say his pork is excellent, and it's clear with his other food that he is a pretty decent chef. What a pity a slice of berkshire pork does not a bowl of ramen make.
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